Securing Lock and Load to garage floor

[RandyandDeb]

I need some advice. I think they are delivering our Keystone Raptor 355ts this weekend. My next project is securing a Lock and Load wheel chock to the garage floor. My problem is, I will need to bolt the plate to the floor and to do that means I need to get to the underside of the floor. I hate to cut into the belly to do that, but I can't think of another way. Just to be clear, I do not yet have the unit in my possession so I really don't know what the underside looks like. We are supposed to go to the dealer this Friday so that they can give us a lesson on the camper.
If I can't come up with a way to secure the plate for the Lock and Load wheel chock other than to cut into the underbelly I need some advise for what I can do to re-seal the belly when I'm done.

I will also be installing a Can Am Spyder Super Clamp, but I don't think that will be much different than securing the plate for the Lock and Load.

Thanks much in advance for any advice you have to offer!!!

[xrated]

I need some advice. I think they are delivering our Keystone Raptor 355ts this weekend. My next project is securing a Lock and Load wheel chock to the garage floor. My problem is, I will need to bolt the plate to the floor and to do that means I need to get to the underside of the floor. I hate to cut into the belly to do that, but I can't think of another way. Just to be clear, I do not yet have the unit in my possession so I really don't know what the underside looks like. We are supposed to go to the dealer this Friday so that they can give us a lesson on the camper.
If I can't come up with a way to secure the plate for the Lock and Load wheel chock other than to cut into the underbelly I need some advise for what I can do to re-seal the belly when I'm done.

I will also be installing a Can Am Spyder Super Clamp, but I don't think that will be much different than securing the plate for the Lock and Load.

Thanks much in advance for any advice you have to offer!!!

I don't have the same trailer/toy hauler as you, but I just bought a toy hauler also (Impact 303) with the integrated tie downs in the floor...the 5K lb ones. I made some j-hooks out of threaded rod and used them to secure section of plywood that I mounted a couple of the Baxley wheel chocks on. I know it's not the same thing as yours, but you might be able to make something similar for your application using some j-hooks.........just a thought. Good luck!

[PARAPTOR]

Unless something has changed on the newer Raptors, there is no belly in the garage area. The floor does have the 5K lb attachment hardware that are located in various areas of the floor and are welded to the Frame. At least in my Raptor drill a hole in the garage floor and you will see the ground under that area. If I recall looking from underneath there is only a waterproof wrap in that area.

[notanlines]

What Paraptor^^^^^^said. And be most careful about NOT drilling into one of your two fuel tanks on the driver's side.

[rick-eureka]

I just installed Condor Chocks to my 300MP. Had to take the covering below down to get to the front attachments. No big deal. BUT be very careful around the fuel tanks. Lower barrier bolted right back up when I was thru.

[JRTJH]

I don't have a toy hauler so I have no "first hand experience" with what I'm about to suggest, but:

Would it be possible to simply install the Condor chocks or Lock and Load chocks to a appropriate sized 3/4" plywood sheet, then place that assembly in the proper location and tie it down with straps/pins to the existing tie down brackets that were installed by the factory?

That would allow for easy removal of the assembly when using the garage for camping and make it easy to reinstall for loading and travel.

Just thinking out loud.......:bfart:

[xrated]

JRTJH........see my post above... ^^^^ That is basically what I did. Another thing that I did when I mounted the Baxley wheel chocks (very similar to the Condor ones)
is to drill two holes for each Baxley (I have two of them) and put the bolts in from the bottom of the 3/4" plywood (holes were countersunk so that they would not protrude from the bottom of the plywood). The nut goes on the topside of the plywood and basically, you end up with a stud that sticks up through your plywood and the Baxley mounting holes line up over the top of them. Buy some "wing nuts" and use them to secure the wheel chock to the plywood. Easily removed if needed. You do have to watch out for the studs sticking up though if you remove the wheel chock, but I almost never remove them, so it's all good.

[FTWingRiders]

In my 325SRX I used threaded inserts to mount my condor chock, thats so I can remove it easily. I did use a section of O track in front as additional tie downs used in junction with the factory tie down rings. Only the left most hole of the O track hit anything so I used toggle bolts on all the other holes. # years later, still works great, I do make sure everything is tight before I put the bike in.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_223371_0_0553374db2fe9291d3c49d04ebf875e2.jpg (http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/mib657861/media/Toy%20Hauler/DSC_5857_zps39500eb0.jpg.html)

[Way Of Life]

This is what I did to attach a single or double wheel chocks set up. I would think that you could attach the Lock-N-Load chock to a steel plate that could then be attached to the cross beam in my application. Simple to install and remove leaving a clean floor for living space.http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=668&pictureid=3490
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=668&pictureid=3491
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=668&pictureid=3492
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=668&pictureid=3493

[RandyandDeb]

My son and I got the Lock'n Load installed for my Indian Scout and the Super Clamps installed for my wife's Spyder RT. It turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it would be!

[spicercars]

I use the condor wheel chock and don't bolt it down. That way I can move it real easy when I take the bike out and it's not in the way. Two straps from the front forks to the factory tie downs and two straps in the back. Bick has never moved.

[BlueknightWI]

If you have a Can-Am Spyder, why would you need anything other than really good wheel chocks like a semi uses? Just jam them into the wheels and tie the thing down to the floor locks. Shouldn't move I would think. Maybe I'm wrong. I've been wrong before. Been married almost 36 years! :)

[RandyandDeb]

If you have a Can-Am Spyder, why would you need anything other than really good wheel chocks like a semi uses? Just jam them into the wheels and tie the thing down to the floor locks. Shouldn't move I would think. Maybe I'm wrong. I've been wrong before. Been married almost 36 years! :)
You probably have a good point. I've had the blocks since we got the Spyder (2014), but we never hauled it anywhere. We've been riding on our vacations for years (previously on Goldwing). Getting too old to put in all those miles on the motorcycle, but can't give up the riding.
I guess the biggest advantage of the Super Chocks in this situation is to make it less likely to run into the front wall when loading the Spyder. Other than that they are quick to lock in the Spyder and they mount to the floor in seconds once you have the plates installed.

[GENEALTO]

I fabricated the same type of system as "Way of Life" utilizing J-hooks to secure it to the floor along with the inexpensive Harbor Freight wheel chocks. I wanted my system further forward. It all works great without any movement of either road or dirt bikes.