Awning leaking between seam and wall

[aaron_huber]

I just got a brand new Cougar 333MKS and it's sitting outside in the rain for the first time. I noticed that rain is leaking between the awning and the wall of the trailer while the awning is rolled up fully, dripping down along the wall underneath the awning. I'm assuming that's not OK but I just wanted to confirm it isn't normal. When the awning is rolled up it looks like water is being directed towards the wall instead of away from it so I figured it was possible I wouldn't see it if it was open.

I'll have the dealer take care of it but what got missed at the factory for it to leak like that? I'm assuming a bead of caulk along the top edge of the seam where the awning attaches to the wall? Is there any possibility that water is leaking into the wall because of it? I've seen horror stories about delaminating walls so I was wondering if this is an urgent problem or something that can wait a while.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[itat]

I had that issue on a popup. Turns out I was pulling the awning too tight. Are you maybe extending your awning too far? I set mine so that the track for the flap is pointing down.

[chuckster57]

If water is leaking between the awning rail and the exterior wall, there is an issue. If you don't want to drag it back to the dealer, check the rail screws making sure they are all there and tight. Normal installation includes butyl tape between the surfaces, and we also run a bead of silicone or SikaFlex along the top seam of the rail.

[canesfan]

I've had that going on for a couple years now. Dealer recaulked it once, was good for awhile, then started again. Dealer recaulked it again, same thing. Now it's leaking in several places. Will stop by next time I'm over by them and have them do it again. It's annoying more than anything.

Also, it doesn't matter if the awning is opened or closed.

[Tbos]

The only place I've ever noticed it on mine is where the two tracks come together.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2014 Silverado 1500 LT in Deep Forest Green

[slow]

The only place I've ever noticed it on mine is where the two tracks come together.


Ditto on mine. Clear silicone resolved the problem. Hopefully this is all you too are witnessing.

[JRTJH]

Silicone, SikaFlex or another type of sealer applied along the top of the awning rail will "TEMPORARILY" stop the water intrusion. It won't be a permanent fix as canesfan has stated. The best way to repair it is to remove the awning rail, clean the trailer side and the rail, apply new butyl putty tape and reinstall the awning rail, then apply a liberal bead of SikaFlex sealant along the upper edge of the awning rail.

I had problems with the screws loosening on the awning rail on a Holiday Rambler travel trailer. Thinking that not much water had or would leak into the trailer sidewall, I just applied a quick bead of silicone along the top surface. The visible water leaking through the rail and onto the trailer sidewall stopped, so I was "satisfied that the leak was fixed". A couple of years later, I noticed a spongy floor in front of the door, got to looking closely and found that the entire inner sidewall of the trailer was wet, molded and damaged. After digging deeper into the problem, I found the screws holding the awning rail in place were "tight but leaking", nearly all of them were rusted and rain had leaked through the silicone, under the awning rail and into the trailer sidewall. Fortunately for me, insurance paid for the repairs.

I learned a very expensive lesson about "Band-Aid fixes" and would urge you that if you see water "leaking from under the awning rail" to fix the problem properly, not just apply a "Band-Aid".....

So, if it's clearly "just a small leak where the two awning rail sections butt against each other" a "dab of silicone" may be all that's necessary, but if there's any question of a more significant problem with water intrusion "under the awning rail", I'd be much more aggressive with the repair.

[aaron_huber]

I took a closer look in daylight today and as best as I can tell the water isn't actually running in between the bead rail and the wall. The rail itself looks well attached and sealed and I don't see any water actually coming out directly under the rail.

The water I noticed appears to be running down from the top of the awning roll into the channel where the bead sits, then running through the channel and around the bead, and then dripping onto the wall about an inch below the bottom of the rail. When the awning is closed the top of the roll is a few inches above the rail so water is running down the awning fabric to the bead, and then down and around to the underside of the bead where it drips out. Unless the bead channel itself was waterproof it makes sense it would do that.

Once the awning is open the fabric will be running downhill from the bead which I assume will keep the underside of the awning dry. I'll keep an eye on it when I'm actually using the trailer to confirm.

[Ken / Claudia]

In case you do not know. Water goes thru the whole awning fabric roll while it is in the closed position. Water will stay trapped in the roll. If opened while still wet water will drip off the underside. I open mine when I can between rain storms to dry it out and than roll it up dry.

[Still go once]

My awning and gutter rail are made of the same extrusion. Why there are two pieces I have no idea but where they meet in the center the water drips down. Mine drips down on the outside electrical outlet. Not good!

[chuckster57]

It's two pieces because the factory doesn't waste rail. Common for ALL makes to see it.

[rwmurphy15]

JRTJH
Question, how did you ever get the insurance company to pay for a leaking problem. Just curious. May have a problem someday like that.

[JRTJH]

JRTJH
Question, how did you ever get the insurance company to pay for a leaking problem. Just curious. May have a problem someday like that.

At the time we lived in an area of Louisiana that required mandatory flood insurance on homes. So when we bought the trailer I paid for additional coverage for flood insurance in addition to comp/collision insurance on the trailer. Since it was water damage, the insurance company footed the bill.

ADDED: I don't remember if it was flood insurance or comprehensive that paid the claim, but insurance picked up the tab.

[srrrrfguitar]

I'm having the same issue. 2010 Passport 245RB. Found a soft floor in front of the door. Used my moisture meter (everyone trailer owner have one) found that the inner wall was very wet, right behind the awning up/down rails. It's going to rain for the next week or so, and I did a temp tape patch on the top of both rails to try to get any water to shed outside of the rail. I'll open it all up to recaulk when the weather gets better.
Anybody know what kind if insulation is inside these walls? I'll need a plan to dry it all out before I do any restoration for any damage found.
Thanks

[chuckster57]

If your outside walls are filon (looks like thin fiberglass) then your walls are vacuum bonded. Outside and inside walls are glued together on top of the frame and styrofoam. There isn't any real way to "dry it out" that I know of.

If your outside Wall is metal, then the frame is wood and the more traditional "spun" fiberglass is used. If that's what you have, it's probably easier to just replace it.

[srrrrfguitar]

Chuck - Thanks. Pretty sure it's filon. I'll ask Keystone. I may have to open a few holes, and run the dehumidifier to try to get it somewhat dry.

[Frank G]

Chuck - Thanks. Pretty sure it's filon. I'll ask Keystone. I may have to open a few holes, and run the dehumidifier to try to get it somewhat dry.

If it is an aluminum frame sidewall sometimes they do not frame the top and bottom of the windows, some times they do. You may remove a window near the water intrusion to do some exploration, assess damage, etc.

Some times when the temperatures and dew points are just right you can see the framing outline on the outside in the early morning.

[srrrrfguitar]

Frank - thanks. Great suggestion to find the frame. And it is aluminum framed.

[atkinsb3]

I took a closer look in daylight today and as best as I can tell the water isn't actually running in between the bead rail and the wall. The rail itself looks well attached and sealed and I don't see any water actually coming out directly under the rail.

The water I noticed appears to be running down from the top of the awning roll into the channel where the bead sits, then running through the channel and around the bead, and then dripping onto the wall about an inch below the bottom of the rail. When the awning is closed the top of the roll is a few inches above the rail so water is running down the awning fabric to the bead, and then down and around to the underside of the bead where it drips out. Unless the bead channel itself was waterproof it makes sense it would do that.

Once the awning is open the fabric will be running downhill from the bead which I assume will keep the underside of the awning dry. I'll keep an eye on it when I'm actually using the trailer to confirm.

Even though this thread died a while back, I noticed the same thing on my awning so decided to search on it. There's a little sag between the roll and the trailer when it's retracted and the roll is higher than than the channel(What a terrible design). When it rains, water collects in the sag of the awning, goes in the channel and drips out the bottom. I'm pretty sure the water is actually coming out of the channel and not between the channel and the wall but will take a closer look to make sure.

[aaron_huber]

For what it's worth, mine has not been an issue since I originally posted. As long as the awning is extended there is no water present underneath which is what I'd expect. When the awning is rolled up in the fully closed position, then water will run into the bead channel and then out along the bottom. Given that the awning is closed the entire side of the trailer both above and below the awning are exposed to the rain anyway so it's not really a problem.

Aaron

[atkinsb3]

That's good to hear, appreciate the info. It's kind of annoying it's designed like it is. When I got home tonight I extended the awning to see if by chance there were slots in the awning post where it was bolted to the camper so the awning could be adjusted up or down. There wasn't. The top awning post that extends and retracts is about 1.5 - 2" above the post that is fastened to the camper. An adventurous person could drill new holes 1.5 to 2" above the existing holes for the pins that connect the extension arms to the front post and lower it. That would possibly solve the issue of water pooling and running out the bead channel...or it might create all kinds of new problems!?!?

[pollock99]

I have a 2018 Keystone Avalanche and our awning is coming unscrewed from the wall. We noticed water damage & tried to fix this ourselves. We travel for my husband’s work so we live in it full-time. We are about to move back to Texas coming from North Carolina and I am afraid it will rip off on the freeway. Is there a quick fix until we get back?

[chuckster57]

I have a 2018 Keystone Avalanche and our awning is coming unscrewed from the wall. We noticed water damage & tried to fix this ourselves. We travel for my husband’s work so we live in it full-time. We are about to move back to Texas coming from North Carolina and I am afraid it will rip off on the freeway. Is there a quick fix until we get back?

Welcome to the forum!!

Odds are if the awning is retracted, and there isn’t a lot of pressure it should stay attached. I would extend the arms, and then as soon as it is retracted and starting to pull on the fabric, let go of the button. You can “shim” the screw holes that are coming out with wood skewers and then re secure the screw. You can also add more screws between the failed ones.

[Morbach Camping]

Good Evening,
I read your post about the fix for the awning. We found an area of the floor that appears to be wet and when I looked at the awning rail, it looks like it could use some caulk. Reading your post, it may need to big fix. Do you know of any videos out there that would help me with the big fix?
Thanks,

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum:wlcm:

You may get lucky on YouTube. It seems like there is a video for just about anything.

[atkinsb3]

Good Evening,
I read your post about the fix for the awning. We found an area of the floor that appears to be wet and when I looked at the awning rail, it looks like it could use some caulk. Reading your post, it may need to big fix. Do you know of any videos out there that would help me with the big fix?
Thanks,

I ended up taking my awning rail completely off. I got some slack in my awning by extending it a foot and then squeezing the poles back together with bungy cords. Once I got the rail detached from the camper wall, slid it off the awning and went to work on it, the rail came off in two pieces. Found the butyl tape on the back was hit and miss as far as covering screw and staple holes (no surprise).

Removed the old butyl tape cleaned the rail and camper wall with alcohol, and added new butyl tape, reattached and caulked around the edges and over the screws that held it in. It took a bit but it wasn't as bad as I thought. I also used some larger screws in some places because the original ones wouldn't bite.

If you decide to take the awning rail off, the butyl tape (on mine) was between the edges of the roof membrane and the awning rail so be careful not to tear the roof membrane if that's the case with yours. A putty knife, warm day, and plenty of patience will be your friend.

[ChuckS]

The most effective and permanent fix for your awing rear rail pulling loose from the side wall is to remove screws one at a time and replace with 3/16 oscar or "tri bulb" rivets.. the screws will eventually all come loose.. going to a larger size screw will work for a while but using the rivets gives you a permanent repair and is what is called for in Dometic's installation instructions for the rear rail

the rivets will pull the rail nice and tight and you wont have any further issues

[ChuckS]

This is the rivet to use for a lasting repair.

https://www.mcmaster.com/97545A075/