Cable Slide-out Stopping Issue

[theallde]

I have a out of warranty 2015 Cougar Xlite 30RLI and one of the 12' cable slide-outs is causing me challenges that I need to correct.

The slide-out will extend out without any problems. However, when I retract the slide-out in, it will travel in about 12" then stop, after 5-10 seconds it will start retracting again, this continues for 5-6 times before completing. This will happen regardless whether I use the remote or the control panel. NOTE: When I state stop and start it refers trying to press either the remote or control panel, depending on which unit I started with.

Any and all suggestions welcomed, thanks ..... Don

[xrated]

Here is a link a Thread that I started a week or so ago. I had issues with my brand new Impact 303 that uses an Accu-Slide cable system. Download the manual (the thread has a link for that too) and get very familiar with how to adjust the system.....

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26924

[slow]

I have a out of warranty 2015 Cougar Xlite 30RLI and one of the 12' cable slide-outs is causing me challenges that I need to correct.

The slide-out will extend out without any problems. However, when I retract the slide-out in, it will travel in about 12" then stop, after 5-10 seconds it will start retracting again, this continues for 5-6 times before completing. This will happen regardless whether I use the remote or the control panel. NOTE: When I state stop and start it refers trying to press either the remote or control panel, depending on which unit I started with.

Any and all suggestions welcomed, thanks ..... Don

Don, does this happen when hooked up to shore power or battery only?

I suggest calling BAL and talking with Jim, their AccuSlide guru.

[Barbell]

May not be at all related but we had a similar problem with the slides stopping and starting. Turned out to be a bad bi-metal breaker that was cutting out numerous times while moving slide. Lights were going out, etc. Once replaced, no more problem. This was on the DC side; that is on battery power.

[theallde]

Here is a link a Thread that I started a week or so ago. I had issues with my brand new Impact 303 that uses an Accu-Slide cable system. Download the manual (the thread has a link for that too) and get very familiar with how to adjust the system.....

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26924

Hello xrated: Thanks for your comments. I replaced one of the cables several weeks ago with the asssiance of the video from BAL's website. While replacing the cable I checked, and adjusted, the slack on all the cables plus checked the connections to the slide out motor. I also printed out the manual from BAL's website and carry it in the trailer for reference. Note: The stopping and starting issue was present even before I replaced the cable. I have tried everything short of replacing the slide out motor ($150) so I posted my issue in the hope that someone may have had the same problems I'm experiencing.

[theallde]

May not be at all related but we had a similar problem with the slides stopping and starting. Turned out to be a bad bi-metal breaker that was cutting out numerous times while moving slide. Lights were going out, etc. Once replaced, no more problem. This was on the DC side; that is on battery power.

Hello Barbell: Thanks for your reply. Where exactly is the "bi-metal breaker" located? Once I locate it I'll try replacing it before spending $150 on a new slide-out motor.

[theallde]

Don, does this happen when hooked up to shore power or battery only?

I suggest calling BAL and talking with Jim, their AccuSlide guru.

Hello slow: Thank you for your reply. The stopping and starting happens all the time whether I'm on shore power or battery. I'll try next week to call AccuSlide and try talking to Jim for his input.

[JRTJH]

The 12 volt 30 amp "autobreset" breakers are usually mounted on the front frame on travel trailers (between the A frame structure, right behind the battery box. On most fifth wheels, they are located in the front storage compartment and connected to the battery cable coming from the positive battery cable. They are usually "fairly reliable" but if they get wet, are exposed to battery acid (or its vapors) they do corrode and can become very problematic. Easy to replace, you can usually buy one at most auto parts stores and at any RV parts center.

Here's what you'll be looking for on your RV:

[theallde]

The 12 volt 30 amp "autobreset" breakers are usually mounted on the front frame on travel trailers (between the A frame structure, right behind the battery box. On most fifth wheels, they are located in the front storage compartment and connected to the battery cable coming from the positive battery cable. They are usually "fairly reliable" but if they get wet, are exposed to battery acid (or its vapors) they do corrode and can become very problematic. Easy to replace, you can usually buy one at most auto parts stores and at any RV parts center.

Here's what you'll be looking for on your RV:

John: Thank you very much for your reply. Since I have a 50 amp, I would assume that I need a 12 volt 50 amp autobreset - correct? Also, thank you for all your posts on the forums helping all of us to become more aware of our rv's.

[xrated]

One of the things that I noticed on mine is that when retracting the slide out back in, the top of the slide out actually starts to move just a bit before the bottom of the slide does. At first, I though that it might be an issue, but the more I think about it, the more it makes sense....and here's why. When the room is all the way out, gravity is wanting to of course make the slide "tip" downward just a bit. So if the slide starts to retract and the slide is "sagging" just a little from gravity, it seems to me that it would be in a little bit of a bind, trying to come back in cocked a little. On mine, when the room starts in, the top of it probably travels...maybe a 1/2" to 5/8" before the bottom of the room starts moving.

One question I have for you....when the slide is retracting, is there a noticeable difference in speed (slowing down) before it stops after the 10 or 12 inches....or does it travel at normal speed then just stop? If it's slowing down before stopping, I would suspect some sort of binding on the lower rollers or a bit of a mis-adjustment on the cables that pull it in. And remember, which ever direction the room is travelling, the opposite cables should have some slack in them, enough to raise and lower them by hand about an 1".

If you aren't seeing any change in speed when retracting it, and you can't hear an obvious "groaning" from the motor......there is a strong possibility that what was stated above about one of the auto-reset breakers (thermal switch if you will) possibly being bad. Remember, if it is slowing down and groaning before it stops, the auto-reset breaker is probably just doing it's job, as they are made to open when a certain amount of current flows through them....and the motor straining that much is probably causing the breaker to see that amount of current and open up. Hope this help and keep us posted.

[JRTJH]

John: Thank you very much for your reply. Since I have a 50 amp, I would assume that I need a 12 volt 50 amp autobreset - correct? Also, thank you for all your posts on the forums helping all of us to become more aware of our rv's.

You're very welcome. Hopefully you'll find the breakers on your RV and they will be an "easy fix" to your slide motor problem.

To answer your question about the 30 amp/50 amp breaker issue. You may have the "input AC power" (50 amps) and the "slide DC (battery) power" mixed up. Your RV connects to 50 amps AC "shore power" but that is an entirely different "beast" from the "small individual circuit" that supplies battery power to your slide motor. So, essentially, the circuit breakers I posted pictures of are DC (battery) breakers that operate "SOME" of the individual circuits on your trailer. There is also, located in your power distribution panel, a mixture of AC circuit breakers (similar to those in your stick/brick home) and a line of "DC fuses" (similar to the ones in your automobile). They protect the electrical system in your trailer, both the "shore power AC side" and the "battery power, DC side".

These DC circuit breakers are NOT a part of the "circuit breaker panel" in your power distribution system and are NOT connected to the AC side of your electrical power system. They are, in simple terms, just a protection device that protects part of the battery section of the trailer electrical system.

While there are multiple amperage ratings for these devices, most often the slide motors, electrical levelling systems and awning have 30 amp CB's while the hydraulic pump and "large fifth wheel" landing gear might have 30 amp or possibly 40 amp or even 50 amp CB's because of the increased need for larger wiring to carry the increased battery power requirement.

I'm not sure if you are, but don't confuse the AC 50 amp rating for your trailer's shore power system with these "much smaller" individual "battery powered" component circuit breakers.

[xrated]

^^^^ Good post John.....I was in a hurry and didn't even catch the part of his post about 50A vs 30A....and I believe you may be correct in assuming that he might of thought about the 50A because of it being a 50 shore power trailer.

[theallde]

You're very welcome. Hopefully you'll find the breakers on your RV and they will be an "easy fix" to your slide motor problem.

To answer your question about the 30 amp/50 amp breaker issue. You may have the "input AC power" (50 amps) and the "slide DC (battery) power" mixed up. Your RV connects to 50 amps AC "shore power" but that is an entirely different "beast" from the "small individual circuit" that supplies battery power to your slide motor. So, essentially, the circuit breakers I posted pictures of are DC (battery) breakers that operate "SOME" of the individual circuits on your trailer. There is also, located in your power distribution panel, a mixture of AC circuit breakers (similar to those in your stick/brick home) and a line of "DC fuses" (similar to the ones in your automobile). They protect the electrical system in your trailer, both the "shore power AC side" and the "battery power, DC side".

These DC circuit breakers are NOT a part of the "circuit breaker panel" in your power distribution system and are NOT connected to the AC side of your electrical power system. They are, in simple terms, just a protection device that protects part of the battery section of the trailer electrical system.

While there are multiple amperage ratings for these devices, most often the slide motors, electrical levelling systems and awning have 30 amp CB's while the hydraulic pump and "large fifth wheel" landing gear might have 30 amp or possibly 40 amp or even 50 amp CB's because of the increased need for larger wiring to carry the increased battery power requirement.

I'm not sure if you are, but don't confuse the AC 50 amp rating for your trailer's shore power system with these "much smaller" individual "battery powered" component circuit breakers.

Hello John:

I purchased a 12volt 30amp as you suggested but when I removed the breaker it was stamped 12volt 50amp (see picture). I replaced the breaker with the 50amp but the slide-out still starts and stops.

I have a call into Jim at Accu-slide but he is out of the office for several days.

I will post a follow up after talking with Jim.

Don

[chuckster57]

Check your power distribution panel. On the 12V side there may be some auto reset circuit breakers, often copper in color and in the top fuse slots. These are also used for slide motors and I have seen them go bad.

[theallde]

Check your power distribution panel. On the 12V side there may be some auto reset circuit breakers, often copper in color and in the top fuse slots. These are also used for slide motors and I have seen them go bad.

Thank you chuckster: I'll check it out in the morning. Don

[theallde]

Check your power distribution panel. On the 12V side there may be some auto reset circuit breakers, often copper in color and in the top fuse slots. These are also used for slide motors and I have seen them go bad.

Hello Chuckster:
All the fuses are okay (no broken wires) but I can't check the one large 12v30amp fuse on the #2 position. I'll replace that fuse tomorrow just to cover all my options but have ever seen a blade fuse like that. Note - I have 3 slides, 2 cable (kitchen & living room) and one gear (bedroom). I called Jim at Accu-slide twice and left voicemails but no return call. Thank you for taking the time to read and respond, it is greatly appreciated. Don

[chuckster57]

If the #2 "fuse" has something in it that resembles what I described above, that would be the auto reset circuit breaker.

[theallde]

Check your power distribution panel. On the 12V side there may be some auto reset circuit breakers, often copper in color and in the top fuse slots. These are also used for slide motors and I have seen them go bad.

Chuckster - I replaced the 12volt auto reset circuit breaker as you suggested and now have a slide out that does not start and stop. THANK YOU so much for taking the time to post your suggestions. Don

[chuckster57]

Glad to hear it solved your issue. Have a wonderful holiday!!

[jeffrorrt]

We have a 2017 Raptor 425S and started noticing issues with one of the slides on out 3rd trip out. It would stop about half way out or in. We then noticed that it had actually taken the carpet under the refrigerator/freezer with it. I looked on the underside of the slide, and there were three strips of the material bonded to the bottom of the slide missing in areas where there are rollers, I'm assuming it stuck to the rollers.. I didn't actually get underneath to look until we were out of warranty (by 3 weeks). The warranty people at keystone initially denied my claim even though it started happening well before the warranty ended. I finally did a google/ linkedin search for Keystone execs and left a message for the VP of the warranty division. He called me back in less than 20 minutes, apologized for the way two of his staff spoke to me (I guess he listened to the conversation tapes) and told me that they will approve me repairs. I'm impressed!! Has anyone else had this issue with the material sticking to the rollers?

[Mattdixon]

One of the things that I noticed on mine is that when retracting the slide out back in, the top of the slide out actually starts to move just a bit before the bottom of the slide does. At first, I though that it might be an issue, but the more I think about it, the more it makes sense....and here's why. When the room is all the way out, gravity is wanting to of course make the slide "tip" downward just a bit. So if the slide starts to retract and the slide is "sagging" just a little from gravity, it seems to me that it would be in a little bit of a bind, trying to come back in cocked a little. On mine, when the room starts in, the top of it probably travels...maybe a 1/2" to 5/8" before the bottom of the room starts moving.

One question I have for you....when the slide is retracting, is there a noticeable difference in speed (slowing down) before it stops after the 10 or 12 inches....or does it travel at normal speed then just stop? If it's slowing down before stopping, I would suspect some sort of binding on the lower rollers or a bit of a mis-adjustment on the cables that pull it in. And remember, which ever direction the room is travelling, the opposite cables should have some slack in them, enough to raise and lower them by hand about an 1".

If you aren't seeing any change in speed when retracting it, and you can't hear an obvious "groaning" from the motor......there is a strong possibility that what was stated above about one of the auto-reset breakers (thermal switch if you will) possibly being bad. Remember, if it is slowing down and groaning before it stops, the auto-reset breaker is probably just doing it's job, as they are made to open when a certain amount of current flows through them....and the motor straining that much is probably causing the breaker to see that amount of current and open up. Hope this help and keep us posted.

If the motor is groaning or slowing before stopping, what would the problem be instead of the auto reset breaker?

[xrated]

Without being able to see/hear it, anything is just a guess....but, it does sound like and out of adjustment situation. The "give and take" type setup that these use requires that there be a bit of slack in the 4 opposite cables of the ones doing the work. Have you downloaded the manual and read through it?

There is a link in this section that will lead you to the manual if you haven't already found it......

Here is a link for the Accu-Slide website..... http://norcoind.com/bal/products/oem...de/index.shtml. Scroll down the page and you will see a place to click on and download the manual I'm talking about.

[sourdough]

If the motor is groaning or slowing before stopping, what would the problem be instead of the auto reset breaker?

Looks like first post so Welcome!

Groaning and slowing can come from MANY things. What year is your trailer? What kind of slide maintenance have you done? What kind of material is on your slide bottom?

Groaning and slowing can be from adjustment, dragging, stuff stuck under the slide, seals torn off etc. Post a little info and maybe we can help. I have had, and continue to have "plenty" of cable actuated slide issues.

[Mr fixit]

It could be a thermal switch in the motor kicking out , cooling down and coming back in. This may be caused by to much drag on the room. I have a 12ft slide on my trailer it has kicked the thermal switch before. This week the room started dragging bad and jerking, I read some forums about wear bars, what a bad design. The room's most weight is on both sidewalls and people where greasing the bottom of their room with something called zep45. Never herd of the stuff. So I tried to think of something slick and water proof, I was walking around a flee market and saw a bottle of petroleum jelly for a dollar. I went back to the campground applied the stuff liberally to the bottom of the room about 3 inches wide on both sides, and now the room goes in and out smoothly. So even if this does not fix your problem now remember this it may help down the road.

[JRTJH]

There is a warning in the owner's manual regarding using petroleum products to lubricate the slide mechanisms. There are a number of very lengthy threads on this forum and many more on other forums that detail the problems with "tacky, sticky lubricants" and slide mechanism problems ranging from slow, jerky motion to damaged and worn components. Cleaning the wrong lubricant off the slide components seems to be significantly more difficult than it would initially appear.

Here's a part of what's in the Keystone Owner's Manual:
"DO NOT apply any petroleum products (grease) to the slide system. This will attract dirt and can cause damage to the functional components of the slide system."

Now back to our regular programming.....

[roadglide]

It could be a thermal switch in the motor kicking out , cooling down and coming back in. This may be caused by to much drag on the room. I have a 12ft slide on my trailer it has kicked the thermal switch before. This week the room started dragging bad and jerking, I read some forums about wear bars, what a bad design. The room's most weight is on both sidewalls and people where greasing the bottom of their room with something called zep45. Never herd of the stuff. So I tried to think of something slick and water proof, I was walking around a flee market and saw a bottle of petroleum jelly for a dollar. I went back to the campground applied the stuff liberally to the bottom of the room about 3 inches wide on both sides, and now the room goes in and out smoothly. So even if this does not fix your problem now remember this it may help down the road. I have been using white luitheum spray grease on my sides for 2 years , it stoped the jerking and bouncing . My slide cables are different tightness when out the slides closes perfectly and no worn cables. I think the system over all is very poor for slide out rooms .

[Bstaabjr1]

Hi Don. I’m not sure if you’re still on this site, but if so I am having the exact same issue on my 29 rli.
Can you direct me where to find the 12v auto reset breaker, and where you purchased a replacement.
Thanks, Bob

[hondapro87]

Hi Don. I’m not sure if you’re still on this site, but if so I am having the exact same issue on my 29 rli.
Can you direct me where to find the 12v auto reset breaker, and where you purchased a replacement.
Thanks, Bob

You should be able to get the 12 volt 30 amp breaker at any auto parts store.