Newbie question

[Jove]

I currently have 2016 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 4.10 rear the 6.4 HEMI. We are looking at getting a 2014 Cougar 337FLS. I have checked and double and triple checked the numbers regarding towing on my truck and everything seems okay. I understand that I might be a little under-powered (maybe), but the numbers seem to be find according to the things I can find. Anyone here to tell me different?

Empty trailer weight is 9995. Empty tounge 1995. Max trailer loaded is around 12.3k.

Thanks!

[tech740]

You don't mention what cab/ box configuration you have or 2 or 4 wheel drive. It looks like with any you will be within the numbers but you will be closer on payload then ou think when it's loaded and the hitch is installed, plus all passangers.

[Desert185]

My first thought...Denver...towing in the mountains...not having an exhaust brake would be a distinct disadvantage with a 12K trailer.

Hard fact. If you ever towed with an exhaust brake, you won't like towing with the Hemi.

[TAZ23]

My trailer is similar to yours (just a bit heavier).
Your truck will be capable of pulling that trailer.
I have the 3.73 gears and it pulls the trailer nicely for a gas engine (The 6.4 is a strong gas motor) . With the 4.10 yours will be even more capable, but being in the mountains you will be glad you have the gears you do. Around here we only have rolling hills and my truck does a good job on them.

[slow]

Other thoughts for your consideration:

Loss of hp at altitude will probably be your frustration since it is a gasser verses a diesel. Wind resistance on those miserable days will also become a factor on your towing experience with the gasser. Neither are show stoppers IMO, just considerations to temper expectations in advance of the situations you may experience.

I tow our smaller and lighter TT in the mountains on occasion and am OK with reving at 3800 rpm (my torque peak) when required with our gasser, some are not.

BTW: Using the Tow/Haul mode to down shift aids considerably when running down the declines. Well worth learning how to use properly. On our Ford it is a single light brake pedal tap to drop a gear.

[Jove]

Thank you guys for the replies! I guess I should mention that although I currently do live in Denver we are planning on trekking around a bit and doing some "full-time" rving around the west coast. We are planning on staying in spots for 3 months at a time so not a ton of pulling the trailer besides the initial getting her over there I guess. This is our first fifth wheel so everything is a learning experience for us.

Any thoughts on the pullrite proglide series of hitches? I had reese universal rails installed and found pretty good deal on the proglide very lightly used. In fact, if you didnt know you would think it was new. Oh and the truck is a crew cab 4wd with the 6'4" bed.

We do have all the trailer braking installed in the truck and I was planning on giving myself a little crash course in it and reading up on everything as we get closer to bringing the trailer home. I wasn't exactly sure what the tow/haul mode did exactly or how to really adjust the gain on the trailer brakes. I have lots of reading to do!

[sourdough]

The numbers look like you will probably be OK but you will probably be right at your payload limit. What does your door sticker say?

My thought is that you want a diesel for anything over 10k (just kind of my internal thinking). I pull my trailer with the same truck (with 3.73). The trailer weighs about 9600 loaded (give or take depending on trip). You will be somewhat underpowered compared to a newer diesel but it will pull it just fine. You have to understand that the hemi will want to rev to keep up speed on inclines. I've made 7% grades up and down with no issue. If you have to keep slowing down and then speed up due to traffic, curves etc. you will always be revving so the engine can catch back up. I can sustain the speed limit on a 7% grade at 3500 rpm and have power in reserve. The 4.10 will be better. The tow/haul mode makes a lot of difference and if you use the transmission effectively in the mountains you will have zero issues going down.

To me you're going to have a big load for a gas engine, but, if you go in understanding that and knowing how it will be I think you will be fine and probably happy (beats the heck out of spending the money on a new truck just to get a diesel when you have a new truck!!).

[Jove]

Yea, I agree Sourdough. I know It is a bit heavy and close to payload on the truck. I think if I am mindful of my loading of the 5er and drive smart it wont be in issue. I am under sticker and I have used several calculators to check and make sure.

I would have preferred diesel, but when we were truck shopping we got way to good of a deal to pass up. I did not anticipate getting quite this size of a rig.

[mtofell]

Same truck but with the 3.73s. 9000# dry weight 5th wheel and I'm usually 100# or so over my payload of 3000#. The weight adds up quickly. My slider hitch along is 250#+. Then a couple people in the truck and some gear, added pin weight of loaded vs dry 5th and you'll likely be over weight by a bit.

I added some Firestone bags and it has really helped. You're probably going to want to do the same. As for pulling - yeah, a diesel would be better but the 6.4 Hemi is a powerful engine. The altitude thing could be a factor. I do tow up some pretty decent hills and it does well.

[Pmedic4]

We also have the RAM 2500 (crew cab) with the 6.4 Hemi, and assume that's what you probably have too? Probably the biggest difference is our 5ver is about 7500 empty, and max 9000 pounds. We haven't had any issues, but haven't done any mountains, just hilly areas. Overall, I'm really pleased with this setup, it's really solid on all roads.

[schmeg]

As stated, the biggest issue will be the mountain passes in the continental divide. Going up will be slow. Going down will task the brakes. There is a 3 percent loss of power for every 1000 feet above sea level in a naturally aspirated gasser. So Vail Pass on I-70 will net over a 30 percent loss. Its just the facts. Take it easy and it will work. Is there a better solution? Yep.

[whitescrew77]

You should be ok as long as you are not in any type of hurry. Heck even the diesel semi's might be passing you up, but you just have to get used to it in the mountains. Earlier this year I had a gasser F-250 for our travel trailer and it pulled fine. Trailer was about 8500. Then we went to a heavier toyhauler and it did not seem like a very good combo for me. I had to get a diesel. Wish I didn't have to, but it pulls so much better with over twice the torque. I do agree most gassers are ok to about 10000 lbs. in general, but your better gearing will probably help you out a bunch. Also if you have a short bed truck, the superglide hitch is great. Nothing to forget and unlatch, just automatically slides back in tight turns. Downside is they are pricey and heavy. I have one that weighs about 280lbs in the bed. Really adds up on the payload number. Airbags are not a bad idea either.

[larry337]

I currently have 2016 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 4.10 rear the 6.4 HEMI. We are looking at getting a 2014 Cougar 337FLS. I have checked and double and triple checked the numbers regarding towing on my truck and everything seems okay. I understand that I might be a little under-powered (maybe), but the numbers seem to be find according to the things I can find. Anyone here to tell me different?

Empty trailer weight is 9995. Empty tounge 1995. Max trailer loaded is around 12.3k.

Thanks!
I have the same trailer but mine is a 2015 and my pin weight is listed as 2200 lbs. I looked up yours and it does say 1995. Not sure why it's 200 lbs less. I do have the larger double door fridge. I would think everything else is the same. Do you have the auto level feature too? Anyway, I also added a second air conditioner, however being a front living room model, the 2nd AC goes in the bedroom at the rear of the trailer. Loaded to camp with a lot of stuff including full fresh water, 2 Yamaha generators in the front basement, any anything else I can fit in there I scaled it at 2600lbs for the pin and 12000 lbs gross. When you add some firewood in the bed, my 140 lb hitch, 100 lb dog, my wife and I, that adds about 700 lbs. So I have around 3300lbs on my truck. Keep in mind that does not include the rails for the hitch as that is included in the truck's empty weight. I think you will be very close on payload. That said, even if the numbers work for you, the ride will get extremely rough due to the chucking. You may want to consider adding an air ride pin box or a Moryde. I have a dually and I added a Reese Fifth Airborne. So between the gasser and the loaded ride you may find some frustration but it's probably doable if you don't let those things get to you.

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[Jove]

Yes Larry I noticed the pin weight difference on the 2014 as well. We do not have the second a/c unit installed and are going to try and be as cautious as possible with what we are packing (my dog only weighs 50 lbs!). It will be an interesting learning experience for us but I will go slow and I don't mind getting passed by a few people. I do have the auto level system as well.

As far as the hitch, I did end up going with the superglide. After watching some videos that seemed like the best option. I found one on Craig's list that a guy had bought last year and barely used.

The next thing I was looking at was possibly installing a hard wired surge protector. Does everyone have them and are they a necessity? It seems like something I will defintitely be wanting down the road, but with all the current stuff I am buying I'm leaning toward holding off for a bit. I'm looking at the progressive industries model.

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-EMS-HW50C-Electrical-Management/dp/B003AN1UA8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478371861&sr=8-3&keywords=progressive+ems#customerReviews

[larry337]

I personally would not be without one. I also have the progressive industries hard wired. This summer we arrived at a Campground in North Carolina in 95° heat. I plugged in and it threw an error code for voltage on line 2. I had just driven 12 hrs, I was exhausted and it was hot as hell, 10 o'clock at night so I figured there was no chance I'd get a maintenance man there. I was very tempted to bypass the system. It was that or suffer all night. I decided to make the phone call and they were extremely helpful. A maintenance man showed up 10 minutes later and sure enough there was a bad breaker at the pole. He even brought a spare with him. He was done in 20 minutes and I gladly tipped him 20 bucks. Had I bypassed the monitor I could have done severe damage to my coach. I've had one for 5 years and that's the first time it ever saved me.

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[sourdough]

You need to get the surge protector before your first trip. Understand it's a significant cost but if you happen to stay at one of "those" places where the power is faulty you will save yourself a lot of grief....and money. Mine has found issues at several places we've camped at....and I've found a lot more with a multi meter.

[larry337]

I pack my tool box for trips like this. Course the multi-meter is the one thing I forgot. I haven't forgotten it since though LOL. I would love to invest in a second tool set to just leave in the camper.

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[larry337]

I should also add that I have dual 6 volt golf cart batteries so you should be south of 2600 pounds.

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[Jove]

Okay, moving on to the next question. Do you guys let your insurance company know that you will be full time living in the RV? I wasn't sure if it made a difference, but i know that the banks really don't like it when getting a loan.

[sourdough]

I'm not really sure either. I do know that your rates (at least everyone I talked to when insuring mine) are dependent on the number of days spent using the RV so I would assume it will have an effect.