BAL Accu-Slide (cable slide) Modification

[slow]

Part A: The Problem

I have been having an on-going issue with the rubber pads that cover the cable access holes and which the slide brackets rest against when the slide is retracted. The brackets squeeze the rubber pads so much that they get destroyed within a season and no longer stay in place. This is even after fine tuning the cable adjustments so the pads are contacted by their corresponding slide bracket at the same time.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/fc5377964c86e69eacdd17b72930380b.jpg

Backside of rubber pads:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/0eb3b926caf7e7afb0d2d478c94cdb71.jpg

The pads are also expensive. With shipping to Canada, they have been close to $80CDN for a set of four.

[slow]

Part B: The Modification

I decided that I would add a "stop" so that each bracket would contact a hard stop when the rubber pad was compressed to ~70% of their original uncompressed thickness. The stops will be mounted to the slide brackets and contact the aluminum slide frame mounted to the exterior wall of the TT.

The stop is a nylatron disk .50 inches in diameter and .150 inches in height that snaps into a .187 deep (thickness of the slide bracket) by .25 inch diameter hole. I turned the stops on my mini lathe using a tool I shaped on the grinder.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/e4a9751ed1a96a21f6ae11ffa44cb2bc.jpg

Without removing the brackets from the slide, I drilled two .25 inch diameter holes in each of the exterior slide brackets near the top and bottom outer corners after marking and center punching the hole centers .270 inches in from the top/bottom and side edge of the bracket. After center punching the hole centers, I started with a 1/8" diameter bit and worked my way up in 1/16" increments in diameter until the 1/4" diameter drill. I then added a ~.025 x 45 degree chamfer to the 1/4" diameter hole on the face to which the nylatron stop would seat against using a 1/2" diameter countersink bit. Note that it is important to chamfer the hole, since the nylatron stop has a small radius under the head. I also deburred the backside of the bracket at the hole the best I could with a small file.

Before holes drilled:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/d95a9d20033dc41bbb7a017187ba2001.jpg

Slide bracket with holes (note the chamfer):

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/971852d13c4c81283d0c35dd8a4a6a55.jpg

I then painted the holes with clear touch up paint so they would not rust.

While the paint was drying, I removed the old rubber pads and cleaned up the adhesive (from the old rubber pads) from the slide frame using isopropyl alcohol and an old tooth brush.

After the clear paint dried, I applied a dab of clear silicone to the plug side of the stop before inserting the stops into all the slide brackets. I then closed the slide for a few hours so the nylatron stops would seat into the brackets.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/13290ede9b7335c74f90b44fddda905d.jpg

To determine where the nylatron stops contacted the slide frame and thereby determine where to position the new rubber pads, I applied a strip of masking tape above and below each slide cable on the slide frame. I then closed the slide so the stops would make a compression mark on the masking tape. After opening the slide, I used a center punch to mark the frame at the two points of the compression marks closest to each cable.

I shortened the 4 inch long rubber pads to 2.5 inches using an exacto knife. I then punched a 1/4" diameter hole in the pad for the slide cable to pass thru after determining where the hole should be for each cable while ensuring the pad would make full contact with the frame and be centered vertically between the punch marks made earlier to define where the edge of the stops contact the slide frame. By doing so, .25 inch of clearance is achieved between the top/bottom edges of the rubber pads and the nylatron stops when the slide is retracted.

To allow the pads to be installed, the slide cable has to be disconnected from the slide bracket. The cable is disconnected by removing the grommet in the slide bracket and then sliding the slide cable end toward the slide box. The cable end is then free of the slide bracket and can be threaded thru the punched hole in the pad and then reinstalled back into the slide bracket and positioned to where it was previously. If the cable is tight and difficult to reinsert into the bracket, use needle nose pliers on the end fitting to pull the cable and engage into the slide bracket. The grommet was then reinstalled.

The red plastic liner covering the self adhesive on the back side of the rubber pad is then removed and the pad applied to the slide frame while keeping the punched hole centered on the slide cable.

With everything installed, I retracted the slide and confirmed that the slide was sealing properly.

Hopefully I will no longer have to include slide rubber pad replacement as part of my annual servicing of the TT going forward.

[slow]

A few more pictures:

Note the punch marks on the slide frame is approximately 1/4" above and below the shortened rubber pads. The nylatron stops contact the slide frame above and below the bunch marks.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/184f67b6a3f154e29dd64676696c7ce1.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/660164ac14a3117c1cf63d894ccba131.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/99ac255f03c39fb0b6ef74038c3aeb21.jpg

[Mr30RLI]

Two years in and mine look just like yours. Never considered that I should replace them to keep them looking new. Figured they were just window dressing, like the polar package.

Frank

[slow]

Two years in and mine look just like yours. Never considered that I should replace them to keep them looking new. Figured they were just window dressing, like the polar package.

Frank

We are averaging over 8,000 miles per season with cross country trips and that may be the reason why ours get damaged to the point of requiring replacement each year.

IMO: Once the steel slide brackets wear thru the rubber pads, it will not take much time for the steel slide brackets to wear thru the aluminum slide frame. Mine had started to wear the aluminum at one bracket location. I suggest replacing the rubber pads if the aluminum is starting to wear. Over priced rubber pads will be much cheaper than a slide frame replacement.

Also note that when the rubber pads get squeezed out, there is more force on the 4 inch trim that frames the outside edge of the slide box since it now becomes the "stop" when the slide is retracted. On our TT, the slide trim mounting screws were always loosening and some of the screws have stripped because of the overloading. Measurements and a layout suggests that the slide brackets should be spaced .150 inches from the aluminum slide frame for the slide trim to seal around the outer edge of the slide without overloading the trim. The .150 inch spacing equals the rubber pads being compressed ~70% which is a typical design intent for this type of application.

[CaptnJohn]

Great job. You may have started a business when the mod becomes well known. "bouncey:

[Tbos]

Slow, What do you use to clean the old adhesive from the frame? What adhesive do use use to attach the new pads? Mine have a tendency to want to come out when I extend the slide.


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[slow]

I clean the old adhesive off with isopropyl alcohol. The Accu-slide tech claims super glue works to reglue the pads but I have never been able to get it to work. New pads which come with pre applied adhesive tape stick well to the aluminum. At least until they get squished.


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[slow]

Great job. You may have started a business when the mod becomes well known. "bouncey:

I sent the BAL engineers an email referencing this thread.Hopefully, they will review it and address this issue for future builds and as a retrofit/upgrade kit.

[theallde]

Hello "slow":

I really like what you have done but I have several questions that hopefully you can answer:

1. Who did you order the "rubber pads" from and what was the part number?

2. Since I don't have the tools required to make the "nylatron stops", would you be willing to make me some and if so, what would the cost be (2 slide outs = 8 brackets = 24 stops (8 x 3 stops per bracket)?

We average 5 months per year on the road using our 2015 Cougar 30RLI so your rubber pads solution is perfect.

Thanks for posting and looking forward to your response ..... Don

[slow]

Hello "slow":



I really like what you have done but I have several questions that hopefully you can answer:



1. Who did you order the "rubber pads" from and what was the part number?



2. Since I don't have the tools required to make the "nylatron stops", would you be willing to make me some and if so, what would the cost be (2 slide outs = 8 brackets = 24 stops (8 x 3 stops per bracket)?



We average 5 months per year on the road using our 2015 Cougar 30RLI so your rubber pads solution is perfect.



Thanks for posting and looking forward to your response ..... Don


Don,

1. Here is the part list. http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/accuslide/accuslide_material-list.pdf

It is the 25041 pad that you probably need.

I tried Trekwood but they kept sending me the wrong rubber pad that was smaller and thinner which I believe is the 25040 pad.

I had a local dealer order the 25041 pad from their distributor called Atlas. Keep in mind that I am in Canada. I am sure the 25041 pad can be ordered in the USA through a dealer.

2. If you have four brackets per slide, you will require 8 stops per slide since 2 (not 3) stops are used per bracket. I suspect you need 16 stops.

I will check on what I have for material and will pm you when I get back home.


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[slow]

I added additional details to the first three posts in this thread to aid those that are making this modification on their TTs.

[theallde]

Thank you for the updated posts, they are very helpful.

Keystone should hire you !!!!!

Thanks again ..... Don

[carwheel_09]

This is one of the best mods I've seen. I also would like to get 16 of those of those nylatron stops. Did you make them or buy them. If you made them I also like to buy some. You probably could have a side business with these. I prefer to do things right the first time. My pads need replacing but I'd wait to get parts to do it right the first time.


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[Tbos]

I noticed the bumpers on the big doors at work would work in a similar manner. They are pressure fit into holes and could work like the nylatron ones he made for his modifications.


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[slow]

This is one of the best mods I've seen. I also would like to get 16 of those of those nylatron stops. Did you make them or buy them. If you made them I also like to buy some. You probably could have a side business with these. I prefer to do things right the first time. My pads need replacing but I'd wait to get parts to do it right the first time.


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Please send me a PM.

[slow]

I noticed the bumpers on the big doors at work would work in a similar manner. They are pressure fit into holes and could work like the nylatron ones he made for his modifications.


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Tom, are the bumpers you see on the large doors rubber or some type of hard plastic? The bumpers would need to be a hard plastic to work with the slide.

If they are a hard plastic, that would be the bumper to find a source for.

[Tbos]

Slow, they are rubber. If they need to be nylon they won't work.

[slow]

Tom, your observation got me thinking about a potential commercially available stop. Goggling "plastic stem bumpers" turned up similar components and a few have a height close to what is needed.

I am going to do more research and see if I can get my hands on some samples.

[Tbos]

Tom, your observation got me thinking about a potential commercially available stop. Goggling "plastic stem bumpers" turned up similar components and a few have a height close to what is needed.



I am going to do more research and see if I can get my hands on some samples.



Slow,
Have you had any luck finding suitable substitutes to your nylock bumpers? I had the pads replaced under warranty and the dealer did a terrible job. The pads aren't as thick as the original and don't have round holes in them. Instead they have slits in them. The first time the slide was extended several of the pads came with it. That was at the dealer. They added some double stick tape that didn't work. I ended up using gorilla tape across the pads to hole them in place. I need to buy pads and do your mod.

[slow]

Tbos,

I am not surprised your dealer struggled to make the repair. The only success I had after many attempts was new pads. BTW: I too used Gorilla tape for a period of time until I came up with the nylon bumper solution.

To be honest, I have not spent anytime yet looking for a commercially available bumper. It was going to be a winter project since I am in the middle of a home renovation.

But one "plastic stem bumper" I came across on the web that may work is the following:

https://www.wclco.com/plastic-components/bumpers/snap-in-stem-bumpers/flat-head-snap-stem-bumpers/

Item number 138NN-5354-0000

One concern would be that it is a press fit, not a snap fit. But it has the right head height at .156 and head diameter. If you go this route, note that the pin diameter is NOT .25, but .207 inch. I suspect you would want to finish drilling with a 13/64 (.203") diameter drill bit when drilling holes in your slide brackets to get a press fit.

If you go this route, please let us know how it works out. If you hold off until next spring, I may have more info and forum member allthede (Don) may have some feedback on how the mod went for him.

[slow]

BTW: The rubber pads come with no holes or slits in them. The slits must have been made by the tech at the dealership instead of taking the time to punch round holes in the pads, and then disconnecting the cables from the slide brackets to feed the cable thru the punched hole in the pad.

[Tbos]

At least two of my cables rubs the edge of the slide frame hole quite a bit. There doesn't seem to be any cable wear yet but the aluminum frame is worn. Did you have any rubbing issues that were visible when the pads were removed?

[slow]

Yes I did have the cables rub the aluminum frame at all 4 retract cables. The extend cables (on the inside of the TT) do as well but not as much and not a concern since the TT is stationary when the slide is extended whereas the slide bounces around when retracted wearing the cables while in transit.

If you pull off a pad, pull off the tape on the inside of the slide frame and look in the slide frame you will see that the pulleys for the retract cables are positioned too far toward the slide box causing the wear. When I removed my pads to replace them 2 summers ago, I used a small round file to elongate the diamond shaped hole towards the slide box. I kept the hole diamond shaped, just wider horizontally. The hole for the cable is now almost to the inside edge of the aluminum frame. Pretty easy to do once you release the cable from the slide bracket as I described in a post earlier in this thread, to get the cable out of the way so it is not damaged by the file. Note the lead in chamfer where I filed to the left of the original hole.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=730&pictureid=4125

IMO, the design I have has potential, but it was very poorly executed. And unfortunately neither Bal or Keystone would every admit that it was poorly designed, so we are on our on to fix it. Not that the warranty covers design errors anyway.

I also check often to be sure the retract cable end is positioned to the outside of the slide bracket. Over time, the cable "bulb" end has worn a seated position in the slide bracket in that outboard position, so it usually is where I want it to be.

FWIIW: I have been looking at other Bal Accu-Slide cable systems on TTs and FWs in campgrounds. There is an earlier design that did not use the 4 inch rubber pads. Those seem to be on models prior to 2014. From a distance, I have not been able to see any issues with that version. I suspect Bal made a design change sometime around the 2014 model year and had not worked out the bugs before introducing the newer version with the pads. Every single TT or FW I have seen with the pads, has a problem with the pads being damaged. There may be another design change more recently which would explain the smaller and thinner pads that they are sending out. These thinner and smaller pads do not seem to be as soft. But since they are smaller, they do not cover the elongated hole that I deliberately made to save the cable from fraying. I have not seen the smaller pads on any TTs or FWs yet.

So far the only thing that seems to work for me is remove the pads, remove the "tape" covering the hole from inside the slide frame (mine were mangled from the cable anyway and had the potential of getting caught in the pulley and dislodging the cable from the pulley), elongate the diamond shaped cable clearance hole, add the nylatron stops and install new pads (shortened from 4 inches to 2.5 inches).

[Tbos]

Slow, I know if seen others post about alignment issues but didn't remember if you did. Mine are the same as yours. I need to do something about the thinner pads the dealer installed. I can tell the slide is now compressing the outer slide seals more than it used to. I'll have to see if I can get the right pads and install them. I used to have some hard rubber bumpers in various sizes but can't seem to find them. If I do I will send you the information. Thanks for all the help.


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[slow]

As an interim step, I used relatively hard cabinet door self adhesive bumpers as stops along with gorilla tape in place of the pads that had fallen off. Only problem was with use, they would dislodge after a few trips and needed to be replaced. I assume the slide bounces vertically somewhat on rough roads and would therefore shear the self adhesive bumpers at the adhesive joint. That is why I decided I needed something mounted rigid in the slide bracket and free to slide easily against the aluminum slide frame. the result was the snap fit nylatron stop.

As for the correct pads, the version you want is Bal part number 25041, Cable Path Hybrid 4". They come as a set of four pads.

I suspect your dealer sourced the smaller pad Bal part number 25040. I would get them to provide the correct pads for free since they installed the wrong pads and incorrectly at that.

[Tbos]

As an interim step, I used relatively hard cabinet door self adhesive bumpers as stops along with gorilla tape in place of the pads that had fallen off. Only problem was with use, they would dislodge after a few trips and needed to be replaced. I assume the slide bounces vertically somewhat on rough roads and would therefore shear the self adhesive bumpers at the adhesive joint. That is why I decided I needed something mounted rigid in the slide bracket and free to slide easily against the aluminum slide frame. the result was the snap fit nylatron stop.

As for the correct pads, the version you want is Bal part number 25041, Cable Path Hybrid 4". They come as a set of four pads.

I suspect your dealer sourced the smaller pad Bal part number 25040. I would get them to provide the correct pads for free since they installed the wrong pads and incorrectly at that.


Thanks. I've not had a lot of luck with my dealer. They are 1.5 hours away and they want you to make an appt to get in line for service. The Keystone warranty expired today. They knew they weren't sticking correctly when I opened the slide at the dealer. I thought about the cabinet door bumpers too. Did you shorten the pad length when you used them?

Thanks again.


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[slow]

I shortened the pads when I installed the nylatron stops. I used the cabinet bumpers with the gorilla tape. The cabinet bumpers are only a short term solution.

If you are getting the new correct pads, install the nylatron stops and the issues will be behind you.


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[theallde]

I tried to get my local CW dealer to ordered the BAL #25041 but after 4 weeks they still hadn't ordered them. I checked out www.trekwood.com but the part were not listed. After emailing them (reply email was from Tiara RV Sales) they gave me a part #777350108 (SKU 350108) at $29.42 (plus $7.50 shipping). The part was from Jessie at Tiara RV Sales (Jessie@TiaraRVSales) com not teakwood. The parts should be here next week.

NOTE: Each part package includes 4 pads.

[slow]

Hopefully you have better luck with Trekwood/ Tiara RV than I did. (They are related companies.) They sent me the smaller and thinner pad and ended up refunding my payment. The SKU was 350108.

Being in the US I suggest contacting Bal directly for a reputable source of the correct pads. They provided a source in the US who's name I cannot remember, but they did not ship to Canada.

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[slow]

Just dug thru old emails. Bal tech support had identified colawrvs.com as the source of the 25041 pads. They quoted $13.90 for a set of 4 plus shipping when I enquired last May. I was dealing with Kristina, but like I noted, they would not ship to Canada so I did not get a chance to verify that they would send out the correct pads.


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[theallde]

Well, I finally took the step and followed Slow's post about replacing the "rubber seats" and installing the "nylatron stops". I took my time and the project turned out better than expected.

I ordered the "rubber seats" from Tiara RV Sales in Elkhart, Indiana. The rubber seats come 4 per package at $29.42 per package. The part number is SKU #350108 and named "Mechanism - Slideout - Cable Patch - Hybrid Systems Only - 25042 - 4/Pkg - Norco".

The most challenging part is centering the drill bit to drill the holes for the nylatron stops but if you take your time and progress from small to large drill bit it is worth the effort.

I replaced one of the slide out cables at the same time so it was a timely project.

Pictures are attached.

Thanks to "slow" for posting this modification ..... Don

[slow]

Please keep us posted on how durable they prove to be for you.


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[Tbos]

Looks like it came out nice. What did you put behind the bracket to make sure you didn't drill into the slide facia?


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[slow]

Looks like it came out nice. What did you put behind the bracket to make sure you didn't drill into the slide facia?


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I temporarily taped a small scrap of aluminum sheet to the slide box trim behind the hole location I was drilling.

[brittsnbirds]

Glad I ran across this post. I have one "pad" that came loose on my Sprinter and need to re-glue it.

However, (No intent to hi-jack thread) I have noticed that my slide is in need of adjustment. When I open it everything seems ok. But when I close it the top starts to come in before the bottom. Slight hesitation but it obviously isnt the same. Also when in full open the side trim on the inside of slide that meets the wall isn't flush. The top makes contact and leaves a 1/4" or so gap at bottom on both sides.

I noticed the adjustment instructions on the inside above the slide but would like for someone to comment on how easy it is as well as any pointers/tips?

Thanks

[slow]

Glad I ran across this post. I have one "pad" that came loose on my Sprinter and need to re-glue it.

However, (No intent to hi-jack thread) I have noticed that my slide is in need of adjustment. When I open it everything seems ok. But when I close it the top starts to come in before the bottom. Slight hesitation but it obviously isnt the same. Also when in full open the side trim on the inside of slide that meets the wall isn't flush. The top makes contact and leaves a 1/4" or so gap at bottom on both sides.

I noticed the adjustment instructions on the inside above the slide but would like for someone to comment on how easy it is as well as any pointers/tips?

Thanks

The adjustment procedure is easy if you do not over think it as you will be tempted to do with the label info. The hard part is gaining access behind the trim to make the adjustments.

The objective of the adjustment is to obtain an equal amount of slack on the loose cables in the open and retracted position. That means that when the slide is open, you adjust the cables that are exposed to the outside of the TT. When the slide is closed, you adjust the cable tension for the cables inside the TT.

The amount of slack is approximately 1/2" of cable movement at its mid point of free length when applying about 3 to 5 pounds of force.

The adjustment procedure starts on page 6 of this manual: http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/accuslide/accuslide_service-manual.pdf

[theallde]

Looks like it came out nice. What did you put behind the bracket to make sure you didn't drill into the slide facia?


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Hello Tom:

I did as Slow did, I temporarily taped a small scrap of aluminum sheet to the slide box trim behind the hole location I was drilling.

Doing that eliminates a "guess what I just did" moment.

Don

[Sulphur1]

Thanks Slow & all for your extensive posts & sharing your experience with the cable slide problems. We have a Cougar 299 with similar issues (top rubber seal pads gone & extensive hole wear. The 5er has had very little use. Found most of the adjustment nuts loose. Re-adjusted & happy with the way it all works with cables also not touching sides of mashed outside holes.
I'm wondering if the outside seals should be shifted to allow centring in the cable holes before replacing cable pads, providing the seal rubber can still wipe easily?
I assume this is done by removing outer rubber seal to access screws, seal old holes and move in to suit hole then screw in to new position.
Comments appreciated.
Cheers
Jon

[slow]

..................I'm wondering if the outside seals should be shifted to allow centring in the cable holes before replacing cable pads, providing the seal rubber can still wipe easily?
I assume this is done by removing outer rubber seal to access screws, seal old holes and move in to suit hole then screw in to new position.
Comments appreciated.
Cheers
Jon

Hi Jon,

On my slide, it is not possible to move the inner wipe or outer bulb seal independently of the slide frame that has the cable clearance hole. Does your slide frame and seals look similar to the pictures of mine that I posted or is your version different?

Also I am not sure if it is possible to center the cables in the holes since the pulleys are what positions the cable relative to the holes in the frame.

[Sulphur1]

Thanks for the reply Slow. I had a another look and yes, it looks the same as yours so not be able to re-position. This is not good as the square shaped outside wall to slideout flange seal is getting squeezed out a little when in another problem!
I wonder what holds the pulleys in place and away from the outside of the slide frame. It cannot be very thick as the cable wear is almost to the thickness of the frame.
It's almost as if the slideout is about 1/4-3/8" too small as someone else has commented. Going down to have another look tomorrow.
Cheers
Jon

[Sulphur1]

On second thoughts re slideout width it appears that the Accu-slide frame is not wide enough to have an off-set hole that suits the external pulley.
At least after adjustment none of the cables are rubbing the holes, but the top ones are still too close.
Cheers
Jon

[FlyingAroundRV]

Hi all:
RV newbie here and I was looking at this solution and wondering.
From the pics, it looks like these rubber pads form a sort of seal for the cable entry. But judging by the clearance hole in the pads, they wouldn't be actually water tight when the slide is in the out position. When the slide is retracted for towing, I can see that the pads would seal around the cable, being squashed.

My question is: If instead of soft rubber pads on the slideout frame, hard(ish) neoprene pads were glued to the cable bracket, would this make a satisfactory solution? The neoprene pad would create a seal when the slide is retracted and perform the same role as the hard stops Slow had added.
Granted, having the pads on the cable bracket means the cable entry holes wouldn't be sealed when the slide is out, but it appears that they wouldn't be totally sealed by the soft pads either.
I may be totally off base here as I've never owned a TT and only have Slow's pics to go by.

[slow]

...............My question is: If instead of soft rubber pads on the slideout frame, hard(ish) neoprene pads were glued to the cable bracket, would this make a satisfactory solution? The neoprene pad would create a seal when the slide is retracted and perform the same role as the hard stops Slow had added.
Granted, having the pads on the cable bracket means the cable entry holes wouldn't be sealed when the slide is out, but it appears that they wouldn't be totally sealed by the soft pads either.
I may be totally off base here as I've never owned a TT and only have Slow's pics to go by.

A few things to consider based on my observations with our slide:
* the cables change position in the frame hole as the slide moves, so if the pad is rigid material, a larger hole would be required in the rigid pad
* the cables' "T" end connected to the slide needs to clear the frame and rigid pad holes when the slide is retracted, otherwise the slide will not retract completely, therefore a tapered entry hole in a more rigid pad would be needed
* I believe the pad material is already a neoprene with a high durometer (stiffness)
* attaching a pad to the slide frame without the use of fasteners would be a challenge. The pads as supplied with an adhesive back are the best I have come across so far.

[FlyingAroundRV]

Hi Slow:
It seems like you might have missed my main point.
Instead of attaching the pad to the slideout frame at the wall, attach it to the bracket on the slideout itself. It would still be attached with the adhesive tape as per original.
In this way, the pad travels with the slideout and the cable no longer "saws through" the pad as the slideout is moving in and out.
This would still allow the cable to move freely around the hole in the slideout frame while the slideout is extending/retracting. What I'm not sure of is how this would affect the weather resistance of the setup as when the slideout is extended, the frame holes would be uncovered.

[slow]

I missed the pad being added to the bracket.

On mine, any water entering the slide frame cable holes drain out the bottom of the wall slide frame to the outside of the TT. As long as it drains, it should be OK IMO.

Like you say, The pad would need to be hard enough not to squeeze out like the factory version does without the stops.

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[Tbos]

I think a small rubber seal of some sort would still be needed at the slide frame hole. Mine are pretty good size and I wouldn't want any extra rain getting in there.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

[slow]

For a short period of time when I was waiting for new pads, I covered the holes with gorilla tape. Took a beating like the pads but worked for when I thought I needed it.


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[John Janis]

Has anyone have the problem where the cables are cutting through those rubber pads and wearing into the aluminum of the slide-out?