Chevy 2500hd

[Covered Wagon]

Does anyone here pull a 5th wheel with a Chevy 2500hd duramax ? If so what truck do you have and what weight do you pull ?

Thanks(tx)

[roadglide]

Whats on your mind ? Nobody likes but I bet over half on any forum you visit are overweight on the door sticker.

[notanlines]

Covered Wagon, first of all, welcome to the forum. Lots of good info here. Secondly, give us the information on your truck from the yellow sticker inside the door jamb. If you have a particular trailer in mind that would help. Roadglide is on the money when he says the odds of people pulling overweight. Let's hear back from you......

[Tbos]

Roadglide, if you look for a half ton 5th wheel you should be able to tow it with your 3/4 ton. When you get us your specs and what you are interested in everyone will be more than happy to provide their opinions. Have fun shopping.

[Covered Wagon]

We haven't pulled the trigger yet (next spring). I've spected out a 2500 that has the greatest towing and GVWR capacity. It matches the rv with only a couple of hundred pounds to spare on the pin (I've figured we might add 1500 to 2000 pounds of stuff (wife packs heavy). The truck has a tow rating that can more than handle the rv even at it's rated maximum The GCWR is also much greater than the weight of the truck and rv. As far as power, the power train is the same as is used in the 3500 dw. The 2500hd has a 6200 pound rear axle and suspension and the combination will be within that limit. I will be installing AirLift, but I do know that that does not increase the load limits. I saw a rv safety video the other day and they stated that 51% of 5th wheels on the road are over loaded. Keystone shows the pin weight at 19% of the total. If we can keep the front loading down we should be fine, near the maximum. Unfortunately this rv only has a front storage. I'm hoping that Chevrolet will increase the GVWR for 2017 as they need to try and play catch up with Ford and Dodge.

[Covered Wagon]

Thanks for the welcome folks.

Truck will be a 2017 Chevy 2500hd duramax double cab 6.5 foot box 2wd. So no yellow sticker. The numbers were pulled from the 2016 spec sheets.
RV will be 2017 Montana 3000re

Dave

[Laredo291OH]

Hi Covered,

If you are going to buy a new truck, why not just go for a 3500, but single rear wheel (SRW). Thats what I did, it increased the payload by over 1000 lbs. The cost for the 3500 SRW is barely anything when compared to the overall price.

[CaptnJohn]

Thanks for the welcome folks.

Truck will be a 2017 Chevy 2500hd duramax double cab 6.5 foot box 2wd. So no yellow sticker. The numbers were pulled from the 2016 spec sheets.
RV will be 2017 Montana 3000re

Dave

The truck builders spec sheets are like those of trailer builders ~ light! The truck spec sheets are based on the minimum J2807 specs permit. Many options you want are not in those weights and your yellow sticker may be a shock unless you order a relatively bare vehicle. The same with camper builders. My pin was 310# heavier than published when picked up from the dealer prior to adding slide toppers, 2nd AC, 2nd battery or anything else, not even a can of soda. You will run out of payload before anything else. For just a few hundred more you can often get a 1 ton and have all numbers in spec with the exception of the heaviest 5ers or THs. I bought a 2016 F250 and traded 6 months and 8 days later for an F350 ~~~ all in the payload.

[bsmith0404]

GM hasn't changed the specs on the 2500HD in quite a while. I pulled our Alpine 3500RE with my 2011 duramax 2500 once and traded it in for a 3500 DRW. As you already stated, same power train, so that wasn't the issue. It was the tail wagging the dog effect of too much pin weight and too much trailer on a SRW truck. I wouldn't do the combo you're looking at, many do, but it's not safe. I towed my previous 5er with the same truck, it weighed in fully loaded at about 12,800 (GVWR 13,500). That was about max for the truck, towed very comfortably and didn't have any issues. The added 2,000 lbs of the Alpine and 2,500 lbs of the Montana you are looking at is the straw that breaks the camels back for a 3/4 ton truck. Look for something that is about a ton lighter if you want the 2500.

[roadglide]

We haven't pulled the trigger yet (next spring). I've spected out a 2500 that has the greatest towing and GVWR capacity. It matches the rv with only a couple of hundred pounds to spare on the pin (I've figured we might add 1500 to 2000 pounds of stuff (wife packs heavy). The truck has a tow rating that can more than handle the rv even at it's rated maximum The GCWR is also much greater than the weight of the truck and rv. As far as power, the power train is the same as is used in the 3500 dw. The 2500hd has a 6200 pound rear axle and suspension and the combination will be within that limit. I will be installing AirLift, but I do know that that does not increase the load limits. I saw a rv safety video the other day and they stated that 51% of 5th wheels on the road are over loaded. Keystone shows the pin weight at 19% of the total. If we can keep the front loading down we should be fine, near the maximum. Unfortunately this rv only has a front storage. I'm hoping that Chevrolet will increase the GVWR for 2017 as they need to try and play catch up with Ford and Dodge.

If you get the 2500 make sure it doesn't have 20 inch tires your limited load index of 3100 lbs . With the 18 inch rims you can get tires with index starting at 3550 lbs which is standard on the 3500. May be its changed for 2017 we wont know to Chevy post the specs other then the ram air intake.

[Covered Wagon]

Thanks road glide. :) The 18 inch wheels/tires were in the planned build.

Seems like everyone thinks this is a really bad combination. Unfortunately for us the one ton does not work for several reasons, so I guess I'll rethink the whole mess.

[old timer]

It mostly depends on the options you have. I have a 15 F250 and pull a Montana. However it a older unit with a max weight of 13,000 lbs. We just went on a 3 month trip across the US without any tail wagging. I could however tell if it was windy but even semi drivers can tell if its windy. I was very confident pulling with my truck. I also have the air lift bags on my truck and love them. They dont however increase the load carrying capacity of the truck. That is limited with the axles in the truck from the factory. When we went on our trip we had to pack a lot of stuff. I kept in mind how much things weighed. I took stuff out of the storage so we could add stuff we really needed for the trip. Don't pack stuff you will maybe use. I like to keep camping simple.

[Covered Wagon]

Thanks old timer :)
I'm an old timer too. I drove a semi years ago so I well understand the winds. I actually had times in KS, when I took a break and waited for the winds to take a break. Sounds like my planning was very similar to yours.

[MBD]

I have a 2500HD and I regularly pull 16730 with it. Am I close to my max sticker number? YES! Do I drive like a fool? NO! How do I know how much I am pulling? SEVERAL TRIPS TO THE SCALE-laden and un-laden. BTW, I have factory 20 inch wheels and they do not change my sticker ratings...
The only real option that would change my stated capacity would be the 4WD option-a reduction of 3K pounds. Since I don't pull my trailer through the mud, I have a 2WD truck.

To the original poster: Do a little research. Every year General Motors publishes a trailering guide for both Chevrolet and GMC vehicles. It tells you almost everything you need to know. The only thing that I have had to look elsewhere for is the rear axle rating (dealer and the internet had the answer pretty quick). Educate yourself. You can do almost anything. The real question is if you can do so legally or safely. On a forum such as this, there are alarmists who will tell you everything you do is foolish and dangerous and then there are knuckleheads who will validate any and every notion regardless of it's practicality. You are ultimately responsible for what you do and the risks you take.

Welcome! Good luck! Getting an RV is one of the best things my wife and I have done. I hope your experience is just as rewarding! My participation here is mostly for self education - but believe me, I check everything by doing my own research from several sources.

[Covered Wagon]

Thanks for the imput MBD.
I started with GMs trailering guide/info, then went to my dealer and specked things out with him. We agree that I will be using the truck to the max which is what he said it's made for. I also spected a 2wd for the same reason as you. I've also been working with the rv dealer and using the yellow sticker numbers from actual RVs. Fortunately for us there are few option available on the unit we are looking at so there won't be any/much weight creep. I really appreciate hearing from someone who's been there and done that (BTDT).

[bagged123]

Go get a a 3500, no '16 or newer 2500 is towing a Montana, just from the payload on the trucks themselves. The Montana are big girls and have a heavy pin, even dry. Just go big from the start with your truck

[JRTJH]

Looking at the Montana 3000RE specs, the empty pin weight is 2300. Add propane, a couple of batteries and you're up to about 2450. The washer/dryer 'built in space" in in the front closet, so option for a second A/C in the bedroom and the washer/dryer and you're going to be pushing 3000 pounds of pin weight with the "empty" trailer. Add clothes, camping/travelling equipment, food and the necessary tools, etc to the trailer and you're going to be pushing well above that 3000 pounds of pin weight.

We haven't even talked about the cargo/hitch weight in the truck. Any fifth wheel hitch you buy will add 150 pounds or so, get a sliding hitch (you've heard the short bed horror stories) and you're adding another 100 pounds to the mix and still don't have an ice chest or family in the truck yet....

Will a 250/2500 tow the trailer? Heck yes, will it keep you from getting a ticket if you get stopped for a safety check? you be the judge..... You're going to be "over your GVW and likely at or possibly over your RAWR when "loaded for travel".....

I tow with a 2015 F250 diesel, payload is rated at 2000 pounds, I tow a Cougar XLite 27RKS with an "advertised pin weight" of 1230 pounds. When loaded with a Curt 16K non-sliding hitch (125 lbs) and gear for an "extended trip" I'm at my GVW and the trailer pin weight is pushing 1500-1700 pounds. The truck "pulls" the trailer with absolute ease, heck I could (and do) add another 2500 pounds of boat behind the trailer and it still doesn't break a sweat. But, if I should happen to get stopped for a "courtesy safety check", I'm going to be "sweating profusely". With full camping gear, I'm pushing my GVW "right to the limit".... If I had another 1000 pounds of empty pin weight, I'd be significantly over GVW as you'll find your truck will be given that trailer and a 3/4 ton tow vehicle.

[bsmith0404]

I have a 2500HD and I regularly pull 16730 with it. Am I close to my max sticker number? YES! Do I drive like a fool? NO! How do I know how much I am pulling? SEVERAL TRIPS TO THE SCALE-laden and un-laden. BTW, I have factory 20 inch wheels and they do not change my sticker ratings...
The only real option that would change my stated capacity would be the 4WD option-a reduction of 3K pounds. Since I don't pull my trailer through the mud, I have a 2WD truck.

To the original poster: Do a little research. Every year General Motors publishes a trailering guide for both Chevrolet and GMC vehicles. It tells you almost everything you need to know. The only thing that I have had to look elsewhere for is the rear axle rating (dealer and the internet had the answer pretty quick). Educate yourself. You can do almost anything. The real question is if you can do so legally or safely. On a forum such as this, there are alarmists who will tell you everything you do is foolish and dangerous and then there are knuckleheads who will validate any and every notion regardless of it's practicality. You are ultimately responsible for what you do and the risks you take.

Welcome! Good luck! Getting an RV is one of the best things my wife and I have done. I hope your experience is just as rewarding! My participation here is mostly for self education - but believe me, I check everything by doing my own research from several sources.

Thanks for the imput MBD.
I started with GMs trailering guide/info, then went to my dealer and specked things out with him. We agree that I will be using the truck to the max which is what he said it's made for. I also spected a 2wd for the same reason as you. I've also been working with the rv dealer and using the yellow sticker numbers from actual RVs. Fortunately for us there are few option available on the unit we are looking at so there won't be any/much weight creep. I really appreciate hearing from someone who's been there and done that (BTDT).

I'm not here to get into a debate, but as someone who has also been there and done that, and has pulled countless trailers with 2500s, both gas and diesel, I can tell you that the pin weight of these trailers is beyond what the 2500 should be dealing with. Yes the Duramax/Allison combo is capable, but the payload isn't. They always say, you don't know what you don't know. When I moved up to the new Alpine I thought I would be fine with my 2500, but I felt the difference immediately and knew. When I got the dually, I really knew what the difference was. Each person will do what they want, but trust me when I say I've done it and wouldn't do it again now that I know what I didn't know.

As for the towing guide telling you everything you need to know, not quite. It tells you what you can "safely tow" with each truck platform. It also states that kingpin weight should not cause the vehicle to exceed GVWR or GAWR, but does not give any information on payload, that is on the door sticker. It states that the MAX kingpin weight for a 2500 cannot exceed 3k lbs. That would be on a standard cab, 2wd, WT model. Higher trim levels and larger cab options will reduce the max pin weight. So looking at the trailering guide and saying you can tow 16,800 lbs with a 2wd duramax, crew cab is not entirely accurate. An accurate statement is that you can tow a 16,800 lb trailer with a 2wd duramax crew cab as long as the pin weight does not cause you to exceed GVWR and GAWR, which is not likely to happen. A realistic max pin weight is probably closer to 2500 lbs which will put you into the 13k lb trailer range.

[Timon]

If your ever going to pull a 5th wheel over 10,000 pounds I wouldn't even think about anything under a one ton DRW. I've done the numbers on a Ram 3500 MCSB 6.7l ASIN transmission 4X4 DRW with both a 3.73 and 4.1 ratio with a 1,500 pound payload consisting of two adults, two large dogs, hitch and misc other payload which makes the GVW around 10,000 points leaving 4,000 pounds for pin weight. Based on those numbers the max you can pull with either the 3.73 or 4.10 is 20,000 pounds. Anything more and you're going to be overloaded. Sure you have a lot more pulling power but you're limited by 14,400 GVWR which has to carry the truck, you and your family plus your pin weight.

If you start with the same rig with SRW you start with a GVWR of 11,500, if I remember correctly. That's only 1,500 pounds of pin weight which at 20% is a 7,500 pound rig. Even if you limit your payload to 1,000 you only get to 2,000 pounds of pin Which is a 10,000 pound rig. You can drop to 15% pin and get a little more but is it worth it?

Considering the small price difference between a three quarter ton to a one ton with the same engine configuration plus the even smaller difference between SRW to DRW why risk being overloaded and limiting your considerable investment.

Here is a link (http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-fw.shtml?truck_gvwr=14000&truck_gvwr_unit=e&truck_gcwr=33800&truck_gcwr_unit=e&truck_gtwr=30200&truck_gtwr_unit=e&truck_tongue=4000&truck_tongue_unit=e&truck_rgawr=9750&truck_rgawr_unit=e&truck_gvw=10000&truck_gvw_unit=e&truck_rgaw=4000&truck_rgaw_unit=e&trailer_gvw=&trailer_gvw_unit=e&trailer_tongue=&trailer_tongue_unit=e&margin=20&tongue_percentage=20) to my calculation for the above with a 4.1 ratio. Check it out for yourself then play with the numbers for your own configuration.

[CWSWine]

Not sure where you getting that anything over 10,000 lbs needs a DRW. I have a 2016 Montana 3711FL and tow it with a Ford F350 SRW with a yellow payload sticker says it has 3744 payload. I within all my numbers including my GVWR and that from the CAT scales not a stubby pencil. Here are my numbers from the CAT scale put into towing planner.

http://towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/FifthWheelCatScales/?w1sa=4880&w1da=6460&w1ta=10980&w2sa=4740&w2da=3480&a=2

[Timon]

Not sure where you getting that anything over 10,000 lbs needs a DRW. I have a 2016 Montana 3711FL and tow it with a Ford F350 SRW with a yellow payload sticker says it has 3744 payload. I within all my numbers including my GVWR and that from the CAT scales not a stubby pencil. Here are my numbers from the CAT scale put into towing planner.

http://towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/FifthWheelCatScales/?w1sa=4880&w1da=6460&w1ta=10980&w2sa=4740&w2da=3480&a=2I didn't say couldn't I said wouldn't because you're putting your self on the edge with little room for growth.

I did a calculation using a 3500 SRW instead of the DRW but everything else being the same including a 1,500 pounds for your family, hitch and other stuff. One difference is that it only comes with a 3.42 ratio. You can reduce that weight but that's what I'm using.

With the ASIN comes the GTW/max pin weight is 13,125/2,625. So yes it can tow it.
With the 68RFE it's almost the same. Basically with the SWR drive the ASIN doesn't by you much.

I haven't found the F350 2016 CC numbers so I used the 2017 ones. A 2016 won't be able to tow as much. Fords chart is harder to follow since it's all broken up compared to RAMs easy to follow chart so I hope I got this right. The GTW/max pin weight calculates to 11,615/2,323 pounds.

It does seem that something might be wrong with the numbers since I expected the 2017 F350 SRW would have come out on top so I'll go back and recheck everything when I do the calculations for the F350 DWR drive. especially if I can find a better chart.

If I got it right you don't have a lot of margin for growth if you later decide to get a heaver trailer. Adding DRW gets you a lot more towing ability plus DRW is more stable when towing.

So it really comes down to what you want. We're looking at a 15K trailer so I'll stick with a DWR drive 1 ton truck.

As far as using a 3/4 ton, their GVWR maxes out around 10K and they weigh about the same as the 1 ton SWR so you'll loose about 1,000 pounds of payload, thus lower pin weight. Drop the pin weight by 1,000 pounds you drop the towable trailer weight by about 5,000 pounds base on pin weight being 20% of trailer weight.

BTW, I usually take the trucks payload capacity less what ever I want to carry including the hitch weight and multiply by the result by 5 to get a rough idea how much I can tow. So if the payload it 4,000 pound less say 1,000 pounds of payload and hitch gives 3,000 pounds times 5 equals a 15,000 pound 5th wheel trailer. You still need to check GCVWR but at least it gives you a starting point.

[CWSWine]

I don’t know where you get a 10,000 lbs SRW truck mine on the scales is 8220 ready to camp with B&W hitch. Subtract that from 11,500 and you get 3280 left over for pin weight. A 10,000 lbs 5er at a high 25% pin weight would only be 2500 lbs pin that would still give me a 720 lbs margin.

First GCWR is 23,500 and subtract 8220 give me a towing capacity of 15280 and my 5er weighs in at 14,100 with combine weight of 22,300.

My GCWR is 11,500 and my axles are 4880 and 6480 for a total of 11,340. Close but not over and the 3711FL 80% of the storage is over or aft of the axles. Adding weight doesn’t add to pin weight. The more shoes my wife stacks in the bedroom the lighter the pin gets.

GAWR is 7,000 and my axle is 6460 which give me 540 lbs margin.

This is a 39.5 foot RV so yes I have no room to upgrade by I would rather down grade to shorter RV then upgrade. The point is you don’t need at DRW for anything over 10,000 lbs. You can stubby pencil all you want and get the numbers to fit or not to fit but the real test is the CAT Scale. I guess we are just going to have to disagree!!!!!!

[Ken / Claudia]

Covered Wagon,
Just to help us understand. Explain the reasons why a 3/4 ton pickup will work out for you but, not a 1 ton. Going back to your post saying a 1 ton will not work for us for several reasons. Not being picky but, that statement is interesting and you did not explain it.

[Timon]

I don’t know where you get a 10,000 lbs SRW truck mine on the scales is 8220 ready to camp with B&W hitch. Subtract that from 11,500 and you get 3280 left over for pin weight. A 10,000 lbs 5er at a high 25% pin weight would only be 2500 lbs pin that would still give me a 720 lbs margin.

First GCWR is 23,500 and subtract 8220 give me a towing capacity of 15280 and my 5er weighs in at 14,100 with combine weight of 22,300.

My GCWR is 11,500 and my axles are 4880 and 6480 for a total of 11,340. Close but not over and the 3711FL 80% of the storage is over or aft of the axles. Adding weight doesn’t add to pin weight. The more shoes my wife stacks in the bedroom the lighter the pin gets.

GAWR is 7,000 and my axle is 6460 which give me 540 lbs margin.

This is a 39.5 foot RV so yes I have no room to upgrade by I would rather down grade to shorter RV then upgrade. The point is you don’t need at DRW for anything over 10,000 lbs. You can stubby pencil all you want and get the numbers to fit or not to fit but the real test is the CAT Scale. I guess we are just going to have to disagree!!!!!!

Basically I add 1,500 to what ever the base weight is to cover everything we might carry in the truck including passengers, dogs, tool box and tools, hitch anything I add to the truck and maybe extended fuel tanks in the future. This gives me my calculated GVW. I could easily back that down to 1,000. So with a MegaCab that puts me at 10,000. Different truck configurations will change those number but you still have to start with GVW and the GVWR.

I've found that at least for the 1 ton trucks GCVWR normally doesn't enter into the equation but it can on the 3/4 ton trucks. The main controlling numbers is going to be GVWR-GVW which is going to give you the max pin weight you can pull. That times 5 gives you the max trailer weight for a 20% win weight. The last check is going to make sure you don't exceed your rear axel rating. The program I use checks it but it's still best to verify all weights on the scales.

This program I use is Changing Gear's Fifth Wheel Weight Calculator (http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-fw.shtml). That way I make sure I don't miss something.

Just for fun take all of the Ford numbers for your truck and see what the program tells you. You can find the Ford ratings by starting here (https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/bodybuild.html) then going to your year then to Supper Duty F-Series. It's always possible the program isn't doing it correctly.

[CWSWine]

My truck with hitch and ready to go camping only weights 8220 not 10,000 lbs. Here is Change Gears with CAT scale weights from my truck and 5er.

http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-fw.shtml?truck_gvwr=11500&truck_gvwr_unit=e&truck_gcwr=23500&truck_gcwr_unit=e&truck_gtwr=15900&truck_gtwr_unit=e&truck_tongue=3744&truck_tongue_unit=e&truck_rgawr=7000&truck_rgawr_unit=e&truck_gvw=8220&truck_gvw_unit=e&truck_rgaw=3480&truck_rgaw_unit=e&trailer_gvw=14100&trailer_gvw_unit=e&trailer_tongue=3120&trailer_tongue_unit=e&margin=0&tongue_percentage=22.1

Might want to check this one because it almost on the money with most setup I have had.

http://towingplanner.com/

[CaptnJohn]

Things I have learned from the weight police over the years;
A 3/4 ton truck with the camper package is fine for a popup if not heavily loaded
My F350 SWD is not capable of pulling my 11K 5er and a dually is required for everything over 2K

[bagged123]

Things I have learned from the weight police over the years;
A 3/4 ton truck with the camper package is fine for a popup if not heavily loaded
My F350 SWD is not capable of pulling my 11K 5er and a dually is required for everything over 2K


LOL, this is on every board, the only truck that can tow a 5'er is a dually.

However, I think with the size of the 5'ers, and height, a dually would do much better in towing a 5'er. Does one need one to tow a 5'er? No.

With the new tow ratings for all 3, at this point a 1 ton are the only ones with the payload to tow the 5'ers of today. The payloads have drastically dropped on the '16 models of all 3 makes

[bsmith0404]

Things I have learned from the weight police over the years;
A 3/4 ton truck with the camper package is fine for a popup if not heavily loaded
My F350 SWD is not capable of pulling my 11K 5er and a dually is required for everything over 2K

The truck builders spec sheets are like those of trailer builders ~ light! The truck spec sheets are based on the minimum J2807 specs permit. Many options you want are not in those weights and your yellow sticker may be a shock unless you order a relatively bare vehicle. The same with camper builders. My pin was 310# heavier than published when picked up from the dealer prior to adding slide toppers, 2nd AC, 2nd battery or anything else, not even a can of soda. You will run out of payload before anything else. For just a few hundred more you can often get a 1 ton and have all numbers in spec with the exception of the heaviest 5ers or THs. I bought a 2016 F250 and traded 6 months and 8 days later for an F350 ~~~ all in the payload.

I don't consider myself the "weight police", maybe some do. My experience with the "weight Police" on this forum is that they give well thought out advice based on real world numbers and experiences. I had a 2500 that some said was more than capable of towing my 15k lb 5er, within a month of buying the 5er I was trading my 2500 in on a dually. I feel we all provide information in hopes of educating people before they spend money so they don't end up buying another new truck 6 months after they bought their current truck

[Timon]

I don't consider myself the "weight police", maybe some do. My experience with the "weight Police" on this forum is that they give well thought out advice based on real world numbers and experiences. I had a 2500 that some said was more than capable of towing my 15k lb 5er, within a month of buying the 5er I was trading my 2500 in on a dually. I feel we all provide information in hopes of educating people before they spend money so they don't end up buying another new truck 6 months after they bought their current truckWe've been planning to get thee RV for a while now. Originally a 5er then a MH but the DW had good arguments to go 5er. After really doing my homework and fully checking out specifications I just couldn't see getting anything other than a dually even though I rather not have a truck that wide.

Can you pull 10K 5er with a 3/4 ton? Yes but you're on the edge. Can you pull 10k with a 1 ton srw? Yes you can but without much room to move up. Can you pull a 24K with a srw? Well maybe but again why run on the edge.

The point is to do your homework by using the actual manufactures ratings and do the math using a good program that checks all the conditions. Don't depend on the door stickers CCC or "Max tow" ratings or what some salesman says.

One last point, I looked at both 4X2 and 4X4 drive and decided well go with a 4X4. So do you need a 4X4? Heck no but if I figured if you're ever going to boondock off paved roads I just can see doing that without 4X4. Heck, I may even put a winch on the truck:D

[CWSWine]

Things I have learned from the weight police over the years;
A 3/4 ton truck with the camper package is fine for a popup if not heavily loaded
My F350 SWD is not capable of pulling my 11K 5er and a dually is required for everything over 2K

But on the other end some people think if you get level with air bags and getting rolling down the road you will be OK since there truck is something other than what says on the door jam.

It's all 5th grade math and not rocket science. You sure don't need a DRW to tow 10,000 lbs 5er but SRW have their limits. We have a local manufacture that if you have DRW F350/F3500 and you buy one of their 5ers you have to sign a release stating you are most likely over weight.

Right tool for the right job and the CAT scales is your friend. Stubby Pencil weights are Seldom Correct!!!

I tow 14,100 and within all my specs and not some stubby pencil weights but on the scale and average 10.5 MPG doing it.

Here is my numbers http://towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/FifthWheelCatScales/?w1sa=4880&w1da=6460&w1ta=10980&w2sa=4740&w2da=3480&a=2

Safety is critical when towing an RV Trailer. This training video discusses the importance of understanding a Truck's ratings and how these ratings limit the size of the trailer that can be safely towed. You will be provided the tools and basic understanding needed to assist your endeavor to properly match a truck and trailer, so that you can enjoy RVing safely.

http://rvsafety.com/rv-education/matching-trucks-to-trailers

[fvstringpicker]

I had a 2500 that some said was more than capable of towing my 15k lb 5er, within a month of buying the 5er I was trading my 2500 in on a dually.

What kind of trouble were you having that made you go to a dually? I can see going to a dually if the weight is beyond a certain point, but I don't understand trading a 2500 SRW for a 3500 SRW when they are essentially the same truck and you're 200-300 lbs over on pin weight.

[JRTJH]

What kind of trouble were you having that made you go to a dually? I can see going to a dually if the weight is beyond a certain point, but I don't understand trading a 2500 SRW for a 3500 SRW when they are essentially the same truck and you're 200-300 lbs over on pin weight.

In the situation you describe, it really boils down to whether you, your lawyer and your insurance agent all agree to "just ignore being overweight". Yes, the truck is "essentially" the same, or in the case of the F250/F350, "identical" with the exception of the overload springs (which are optional on the F250, and adding them makes it "identical"). Same truck, same part numbers, same "capacity" but very much "different" in weight limits for "registration and legal" purposes. It's only a matter of time before the state vehicle DOT and registration departments realize the amount of money they can make by enforcing "yellow sticker weight limits", and at that time, all this discussion will pretty much be "talking to the wall"...

To each their own. Few, if anybody here is going to go out and spend money based on someone else's perspective, so if you're happy, hit the road and don't look back, after all, nearly every RV salesman will support your decision to buy even bigger.

[fvstringpicker]

I have a TT so I don't really have a dog in the fight. I just wonder if there's any real mechanical differences between the 2500 and the 3500 other than the rear springs that causes the mfg to rate the payload differently. Are we really talking about lawyers, fine, and form rather than real substance and safety when comparing the two with srw? :confused:

[Outback 325BH]

I have a TT so I don't really have a dog in the fight. I just wonder if there's any real mechanical differences between the 2500 and the 3500 other than the rear springs that causes the mfg to rate the payload differently. Are we really talking about lawyers, fine, and form rather than real substance and safety when comparing the two with srw? :confused:



The reason for the rated payload differences is due to the 10,000 cap for the 3/4-ton. This keeps it a class 2 truck. 10,001 is a class 3 truck.

Some trucks may be different and some aren't. I think Ford got tired of making two trucks, so they finally decided to crank out the same truck and just rate them differently and put different badges on them. My research is with Fords. Other manufacturers might do the same, but I don't know.

A 10,000 GVWR has certain ramifications across registration, licensing, CDL, etc. For some it may not matter; to others it might. This is why they do it.

For personal RV use, I probably doesn't have any positives.


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[kfxgreenie]

I have a TT so I don't really have a dog in the fight. I just wonder if there's any real mechanical differences between the 2500 and the 3500 other than the rear springs that causes the mfg to rate the payload differently. Are we really talking about lawyers, fine, and form rather than real substance and safety when comparing the two with srw? :confused:

It's the government that causes the manufacture's to rate the trucks differently. An when you figure out why the government does what it does and if it makes any sense you come back and report your findings. :D

[CWSWine]

The reason for the rated payload differences is due to the 10,000 cap for the 3/4-ton. This keeps it a class 2 truck. 10,001 is a class 3 truck.

Some trucks may be different and some aren't. I think Ford got tired of making two trucks, so they finally decided to crank out the same truck and just rate them differently and put different badges on them. My research is with Fords. Other manufacturers might do the same, but I don't know.

A 10,000 GVWR has certain ramifications across registration, licensing, CDL, etc. For some it may not matter; to others it might. This is why they do it.

For personal RV use, I probably doesn't have any positives.


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That comment has never made sense to me since a 3500 with GVW of 10,000 is a class 2 truck just like the 1/2 and 3/4 ton so what need for 3/4 ton trucks. A 3500 with over 10,000 is a class 3 truck.

http://changingears.com/rv-sec-tow-vehicles-classes.shtml

[the sodfather]

This is SO interesting! I've got to make me another bag of popcorn! :D

[Outback 325BH]

That comment has never made sense to me since a 3500 with GVW of 10,000 is a class 2 truck just like the 1/2 and 3/4 ton so what need for 3/4 ton trucks. A 3500 with over 10,000 is a class 3 truck.



http://changingears.com/rv-sec-tow-vehicles-classes.shtml



<sigh>...

Yes, 1-tons can also be configured with a 10,000 GVWR... which means they too are class 2.

Like I said: 10,000 and below is class 2; 10,001 and above is class 3 (until you get over another threshold).

I thought I provided enough for you to infer, but I guess I was wrong.

I don't know why anyone would want a class 2 1-ton.


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[CWSWine]

<sigh>...

Yes, 1-tons can also be configured with a 10,000 GVWR... which means they too are class 2.

Like I said: 10,000 and below is class 2; 10,001 and above is class 3 (until you get over another threshold).

I thought I provided enough for you to infer, but I guess I was wrong.

I don't know why anyone would want a class 2 1-ton.


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Like you said...
"A 10,000 GVWR has certain ramifications across registration, licensing, CDL, etc. For some it may not matter; to others it might. This is why they do it."

SRW and DRW Class 3 trucks can have GVWR up 14,000. Why is Ram the only one going over the SRW GVWR 11,500? Seems if it was safe Ford and GM would be increasing there GVWR to be "Best In Class Payload" and bragging rights. Hmmm......

[bsmith0404]

What kind of trouble were you having that made you go to a dually? I can see going to a dually if the weight is beyond a certain point, but I don't understand trading a 2500 SRW for a 3500 SRW when they are essentially the same truck and you're 200-300 lbs over on pin weight.

I could feel the truck was on it's edge for safety. I had a tail wagging the dog feeling. I've pulled a lot of trailers over the years, race car, utility, RV, farming equipment, etc...I had the feeling, especially on certain roads that my 2500 just wasn't safe. Too much pin weight, too light on the steering axle, too much sidewall flex in the tires. I've been in an emergency braking situation with a 5er before, I did not want to be in that situation with this one hooked to a 2500. Yes I have my trailer breaks set to pull harder than the truck, but if they ever failed I didn't want that trailer behind my 2500 or even a SRW 3500. I've also seen too many trailers turned over due to wind or a blow out or whatever, with the 2500 on edge, that situation is much more likely than it is with my dually.

[fvstringpicker]

I've often wondered if a larger TT would have more "tail wagging the dog" than the size fifth wheel. I towed a large enclosed triple axle loaded with raw brick for brick relief sculpture from west Georgia to middle Florida, weighing about 14,000 lbs. I also towed a goose neck with a JD backhoe that, with the trailer was at least as heavy, but not nearly as far a tow. The enclosed trailer seemed way more subject to being unstable than the goose neck.