Looking at a Montana High Country 353RL but...

[Timon]

Looking at a MHC 353RL but the dealers in my area only have 352RLs that has the RV fridge. Does anyone here have the 353RL that could answer some question? Off line would be fine.

[bsmith0404]

You may be better off just asking your questions. Many things with RVs have similar or the same systems and there may be people on this forum that can provide answers, but don't actually own that specific model.

[JRMART77]

We purchased a 2016 Montana HC 353RL and really love it. Lots of room with the two slides in the living area. The residential fridge is great. Plenty of space. The bedroom is good size with the slide. The only thing that I am going to change are the tires. Right now it has the Trail Kings. I am going to go with the Goodyear G614's. We have had no major issues. Bunch of little things that out dealer has fixed. With the residential frig, you have a 1000 watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter that supplies power for the frig when not connected to shore power. I have driven for 8+ hours and the frig keep everything cold.


If I had a choice, I would purchase this exact Montana again.

[Timon]

We purchased a 2016 Montana HC 353RL and really love it. Lots of room with the two slides in the living area. The residential fridge is great. Plenty of space. The bedroom is good size with the slide. The only thing that I am going to change are the tires. Right now it has the Trail Kings. I am going to go with the Goodyear G614's. We have had no major issues. Bunch of little things that out dealer has fixed. With the residential frig, you have a 1000 watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter that supplies power for the frig when not connected to shore power. I have driven for 8+ hours and the frig keep everything cold.

If I had a choice, I would purchase this exact Montana again.Nice to here. Lots to like about this rig. I'm also looking at the Alpine 3401RS which is basically the same floor-plan.

One thing I'm trying to find out is exactly how they wired in the Inverter. Does the RR power go to the main power panel then to the Inverter or did they go to the Inverter directly? I suspect they went directly to the RR. What I don't understand is why they didn't also power the entertainment center. RRs don't take that much power so there should be plenty left at least the main Entertainment center.

Also, do you have a generator? If so do you know happen to know where they located the transfer switch?

[PerryB]

Other than the RR, what is the difference between the two trailers ? From their website I can't see any other differences. Personally I'd rather have the RV style double door fridge. My wife and I are looking at new 5er's right now, and I'm not a fan of needing an inverter to keep the fridge running. With that system, a source of outside power is going to be needed on a regular basis.

As far as the inverter, I also suspect its direct to the RR. That would simplify the wiring and minimize the output required from the inv. Myself, I'd rather have an RV double door fridge and the entertainment center on a stand alone inverter. On our last trailer I installed a 3500/2500 inv. along with 4 batteries. I hardwired the inverter to a weatherproof Redodot outlet box mounted to the trailer frame within reach of the cord and put an RV-30 receptacle in the box. For power, just plug into the box. The only catch was you had to remember to swich off the charge converter (it was on its own breaker). I also had two 100w panels so it did a decent job of staying charged if not over taxed. I realize that system is not going to be for everyone, but I figured I'd throw it out for ideas.

[Timon]

Other than the RR, what is the difference between the two trailers ? From their website I can't see any other differences. Personally I'd rather have the RV style double door fridge. My wife and I are looking at new 5er's right now, and I'm not a fan of needing an inverter to keep the fridge running. With that system, a source of outside power is going to be needed on a regular basis.

As far as the inverter, I also suspect its direct to the RR. That would simplify the wiring and minimize the output required from the inv. Myself, I'd rather have an RV double door fridge and the entertainment center on a stand alone inverter. On our last trailer I installed a 3500/2500 inv. along with 4 batteries. I hardwired the inverter to a weatherproof Redodot outlet box mounted to the trailer frame within reach of the cord and put an RV-30 receptacle in the box. For power, just plug into the box. The only catch was you had to remember to swich off the charge converter (it was on its own breaker). I also had two 100w panels so it did a decent job of staying charged if not over taxed. I realize that system is not going to be for everyone, but I figured I'd throw it out for ideas.We're thinking along the same basic lines. I'm extending that quite a bit by having multiple Inverters but I don't want to go into details until I've got it more fleshed out.

[Timon]

I've been told you really want at least 6" to 7" of clearance from the top of the bed to the bottom of the trailer overhang to allow for rocking of the 5th wheel. With todays new trucks being so darn high to the top of the bed can any 5th wheel really be set to ride level and not nose high?

The questions:


How high above ground is the bottom of the overhang
How high above ground is the kingpin plate?
Are these dimensions basically the same across all Keystone 5th wheels?

[bsmith0404]

I've been told you really want at least 6" to 7" of clearance from the top of the bed to the bottom of the trailer overhang to allow for rocking of the 5th wheel. With todays new trucks being so darn high to the top of the bed can any 5th wheel really be set to ride level and not nose high?

The questions:


How high above ground is the bottom of the overhang
How high above ground is the kingpin plate?
Are these dimensions basically the same across all Keystone 5th wheels?


Wow, I'm going to throw an answer based on memory and experience transporting many different brand/models. This is not by any means and exact answer from measuring different models or brands.

Is there a standard pin height? Not that I'm aware of, but the frames are all pretty much made the same. Different suspension/tire combos along with weight will change the trailer heights a bit. With that said, it seems most trailers are set to level somewhere near the 61" range. Most new trucks are somewhere around 57" to the top of the bed. Once you add the weight of the trailer, a bit of squat will get you pretty close to level with a 6" bed clearance.

My truck stock bed height is 57", when I hook up to my 5er it is level. A few other I transported were a bit nose high, but they had lighter pin weights so my truck didn't squat as much. Some had more than enough bed clearance where a hitch adjustment could have got them level or close to it, but I never bothered with it.

I will say that if you want 6" bed clearance and to tow a 5er level with these new trucks, lifts, oversize tires, and bed rails are almost impossible.

[Timon]

Wow, I'm going to throw an answer based on memory and experience transporting many different brand/models. This is not by any means and exact answer from measuring different models or brands.

Is there a standard pin height? Not that I'm aware of, but the frames are all pretty much made the same. Different suspension/tire combos along with weight will change the trailer heights a bit. With that said, it seems most trailers are set to level somewhere near the 56" range. Most new trucks are somewhere around 52" to the top of the bed. Once you add the weight of the trailer, a bit of squat will get you pretty close to level with a 6" bed clearance.

My truck stock bed height is 52", when I hook up to my 5er it is level. A few other I transported were a bit nose high, but they had lighter pin weights so my truck didn't squat as much. Some had more than enough bed clearance where a hitch adjustment could have got them level or close to it, but I never bothered with it.

I will say that if you want 6" bed clearance and to tow a 5er level with these new trucks, lifts, oversize tires, and bed rails are almost impossible.Wow, it says the stock bed height for the RAM 3500 DWR 4X4 with Air Springs is 59.5" to the top of the tailgate when closed and the bed is 38.3. Since it has air springs those dimensions should stay the same empty or loaded. I think I have the right dimensions since I can put my arms about level on the bed rail and I'm 6' 2".

However this seems nuts, how can they expect someone to pull a 5th wheel RV with those bed heights unless the 5th wheel manufactures are now putting the overhand up about 5 1/2'? I need to run over to Mike Thompson and check this out as they just may be higher than it looks. They don't have any Alpines but I have to assume they are close to the same height.

[bsmith0404]

Oooops, it's 57" not 52". That's what I get for going from memory. So everything I stated before was off by 5". I made an edit to fix that. Many transport companies state that bed height should be 57" high with a max bed height of 59". That is obviously for 5th wheel bed clearance.

[Timon]

Oooops, it's 57" not 52". That's what I get for going from memory. So everything I stated before was off by 5". I made an edit to fix that. Many transport companies state that bed height should be 57" high with a max bed height of 59". That is obviously for 5th wheel bed clearance.Wew, that's a relief to hear. I was thinking "how in the heck can this work" when I saw 52":confused: I've read somewhere that new 5th wheels have been raised because new trucks are higher so I'm guessing buying used with newer trucks might require some modifications.

I feel better now.