Fuzion 325 - dead battery when stored

[xcntrk]

My damn battery keeps dying when I store my rig for 2 weeks or more. It's a brand new rig and the batt is new. I've been using the battery disconnect every time, which we know doesn't actually kill all the power. So something is draining the unit over this period of time.

I went to fetch the unit for a trip this weekend and the battery was dead. I plugged in the truck cord and after waiting and waiting, still didn't have a enough power to lift the jacks. So I think to myself, all I need to do is get the generator running and it will provide enough power through the converter to run all the 12v systems. Of course, the gene starter is off the same dead battery and there's not enough juice for it to turn over the several times it takes to fire. So, long story short, I jump the coach battery off the truck, start the generator let it spin up to kick on the converter, then finally have enough power to lift the jacks. What a PITA!

I know I can put a second battery in, but I feel that would only prolong the problem not address the source of the power leach.. Any thoughts from this community? Somebody has to have this problem licked, would love to hear from you.

[chuckster57]

You could install a battery disconnect at the battery feed, shutting all power off, or disconnect the positive cable.

Another option would be adding solar if your unit is stored outside.

[matandjen]

I pull my battery when we store the unit. We bring it home and have it sit on a battery tender. Minor inconvenience, but we never have a dead battery when we are ready to go.

[notanlines]

In my opinion your 325 has too many systems that continue to run even with the switch to "off." Your 325 needs two batteries, not one, just for starters. And a marine battery disconnect located under the battery compartment will end all your problems.

[xcntrk]

In my opinion your 325 has too many systems that continue to run even with the switch to "off." Your 325 needs two batteries, not one, just for starters. And a marine battery disconnect located under the battery compartment will end all your problems.

That's where I've been leaning. A second battery for good measure, and since I'm rewiring add a quick disconnect for the 2 batteries to supply in parallel - coach load on the other end. Good tip with "marine" grade, maybe get some better corrosion resistance. Any idea what kind of maximum amps load limit the switch will need to support? The gauge of wire coming off the existing battery isn't very thick (maybe 4~6ga) so obviously there's not a heavy amp load pulling from it.

[notanlines]

This as cheap and simple as you will need. https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Battery-Disconnect-Kill-Switch/dp/B007O0BBFM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1472125783&sr=8-9&keywords=marine+battery+disconnect+switch

[MontanaMike]

I've been using the battery disconnect every time, which we know doesn't actually kill all the power.


I just did some 12 volt work on my Carbon it seems that the battery disconnect did the job and killed everything so I'm not sure what you mean.

[xcntrk]

I just did some 12 volt work on my Carbon it seems that the battery disconnect did the job and killed everything so I'm not sure what you mean. Well, I haven't tested everything, but on my unit the accessory tank fill station pump and the generator prime circuits are both still energized when the factory battery disconnect is engaged. Others have observed this as well...

[MBD]

#1. You should have two batteries
#2. Just because a battery is new doesn't mean it is operating as designed-are the plates completely covered? It could even have a dead cell.
#3. My Fuzion had an improperly wired/installed battery disconnect (it is the rocker switch style). I usually don't have any problems because I leave my trailer plugged into 110 to keep the batteries charged.
#4. If you do get a second battery, it is a good practice to always replace both batteries at the same time (even if only one is not working properly).

I would suggest taking your battery to AutoZone/O'Reilly's/Advanced Auto Parts or whatever auto parts store is close/convenient. They can test your current batter and determine if the battery is good (after you have pulled the caps and determined that the liquid level is sufficient). If your battery is good, then you know that you have a parasitic draw that your disconnect switch won't isolate. The easiest solution is to install a disconnect at the battery terminals as mentioned above.

[Cbrez]

I installed a second battery and a marine switch. No drain when marine battery switch is in the off position.

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/blue-sea-9001e-battery-switch-selector.html

[vabow]

My was running down the battery with the cut off. Found out my gen fuel pump would run when I disconnected the switch. For now I unplug the wires on the genset next to the manual start switch. Going to put in a separate cut off switch.

[gary31]

I too was having a dead battery when my unit was stored. I installed a separate disconnect at the battery to kill all power from the battery. Works every time now. I also carry a jump box in my truck just in case I forget to disconnect and need a boost to get the generator fired. No matter what you install it will only be as good as you execute the process. I bank on having more than one backup when I deal with camping because you are always somewhere that is off the beat and need to be self supportive.

[Desert185]

Test your battery.
Get a battery disconnect at the battery.
Consider two golf cart batteries.
Get a micro jump starter as a backup (I carry one in the RZR and take it in the airplane if I'm doing beach landings at low tide). The little bugger will simplify your life if you need it.

[GScott176]

My Fuzion battery kill was improperly installed at the factory.

Not all electronics went through the kill switch and would kill the battery in a few days

Dealership fixed issue, Now battery disconnect works great.

I did switch out stock battery. It is only a starter battery not a deep cycle rv/marine. So I purchased one deep cycle.

All issues are gone works great every time in the last 11 months.

[xcntrk]

Well, hopefully this solves the problem. Added a second matching deep cycle battery and marine disconnect switch. I didn't like how the original battery just sat on the large upper tray with no retention strap so I fabbed a couple up as well.


http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_211116_0_1441ec70844b7ca70122d8e40a5c8d3d.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_211116_1_6fff90a63ffed7a87b3b33b718b25310.jpg

[skidooxman]

Well, hopefully this solves the problem. Added a second matching deep cycle battery and marine disconnect switch. I didn't like how the original battery just sat on the large upper tray with no retention strap so I fabbed a couple up as well.


http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_211241_0_1441ec70844b7ca70122d8e40a5c8d3d.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_211241_1_6fff90a63ffed7a87b3b33b718b25310.jpg

My 345 Chrome doing the same thing, battery dead in a week with the disconnect off. Did you hook the batteries in parrallel? or through the battery switch? Dealer told me the lippert level system needs constant power to remember 0.0, however lippert says no.

[xcntrk]

My 345 Chrome doing the same thing, battery dead in a week with the disconnect off. Did you hook the batteries in parrallel? or through the battery switch? Dealer told me the lippert level system needs constant power to remember 0.0, however lippert says no.Of course they're in parallel, otherwise I'd be unintentionally upgrading my 12v system to 24v. :eek:
The 12v supply from each battery terminates on one end of the disconnect, and the multiple coach 12v feeds terminate on the other end of the switch.

I don't believe the auto-leveling jack system requires constant power to remember the leveling calibration. Case and point is when my unit died the several times before adding this new disconnect, all power was gone, the jack system wouldn't even turn on, and it still auto-levels accurately. That would really suck if it looses calibration, however I do know there's a procedure to re-calibrate the system to level.

[hdrolling]

Looks real nice, I'm sure you'll be satisfied with the new setup.

[skidooxman]

Of course they're in parallel, otherwise I'd be unintentionally upgrading my 12v system to 24v. :eek:
The 12v supply from each battery terminates on one end of the disconnect, and the multiple coach 12v feeds terminate on the other end of the switch.

I don't believe the auto-leveling jack system requires constant power to remember the leveling calibration. Case and point is when my unit died the several times before adding this new disconnect, all power was gone, the jack system wouldn't even turn on, and it still auto-levels accurately. That would really suck if it looses calibration, however I do know there's a procedure to re-calibrate the system to level.

Lol sorry, I meant parrallel before the switch or at the switch, that has battery A,B or A & B, function, like a boat or firetruck.

[Campy]

Don't forget about that little green LED on the antenna switch (it's a booster)! Mine is behind the TV and can't be seen easily and it drains the battery in my Cougar in about a week. Dedicated shut-off is the solution...........