Slider 5'er hitches & emergency breakaway cable

[xcntrk]

These two don't seem to mix.

As I had feared my emergency breakaway cable got hung up in the pivot head of my auto-slider hitch and yanked out during a slow speed turn navigating a fuel station. While this was a good test of the emergency braking system, it certainly wasn't good in the middle of a busy truck stop while blocking the fuel slips. :eek:

Anyway, there's got to be a better way to mount this cable. I use the Pulrite Superglide where the king pin is locked into the hitch head, and the entire hitch head pivots (which makes it slide). Currently I mount the emergency release cable to that pivoting hitch head but it's getting caught up on the non-moving parts of the hitch rails. Maybe one of those coil release cables would be better, or a way to tie this one back would help????

Here you can see the emergency release cable loop around the hitch release lever for example:

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_208243_0_ab40540617c722c0ede0978edc9d04db.jpg

[bsmith0404]

I have a carabiner clip hooked to one of the cargo tie down points in the corner of the bed of the truck. I just hook the cable in that. It's quick, easy, a solid attachment point, and clear of anything that could accidentally pull the pin. I used to hook it on the release handle like you do, had the pin get pulled while turning on two different occasions so I changed it to the current method.

[capri180]

I have a carabiner clip hooked to one of the cargo tie down points in the corner of the bed of the truck. I just hook the cable in that. It's quick, easy, a solid attachment point, and clear of anything that could accidentally pull the pin. I used to hook it on the release handle like you do, had the pin get pulled while turning on two different occasions so I changed it to the current method.

:thumbsup: I also have a SuperGlide and attach the breakaway cable to one of the cargo tie down loops in the rear of the bed. I was told to loop it over the release handle but that made no sense. As you indicate, there are too many moving parts involved for the cable to become entangled within.

[1st Chev Diesel]

XCNTRK I do not mean to hijack this tread but I notice in your picture that you have and Bak Roll-X box cover on your truck. I have one as well. I also have a Demco Auto slide hitch which requires precision alignment when hitching the 5er up. I have a hard time hooking up my 5er with the Bak Roll-X on the truck as I can not see the top of my hitch in order to line up the kingpin. How you get around this problem (assuming you have this problem)? Thanks.

I also use a carabiner which I attach to one of the hitch rails. Keeps the break away cable away from the moving slider hitch.

[xcntrk]

Thanks for the input all, I'll look into fixed mounting the breakaway cable on one my tie-down anchors.


XCNTRK I do not mean to hijack this tread but I notice in your picture that you have and Bak Roll-X box cover on your truck. I have one as well. I also have a Demco Auto slide hitch which requires precision alignment when hitching the 5er up. I have a hard time hooking up my 5er with the Bak Roll-X on the truck as I can not see the top of my hitch in order to line up the kingpin. How you get around this problem (assuming you have this problem)?

I don't get around it. The cover rolls on top of the rails which means it interferes with being able to see down in the bed to view the hitch head. I have a quad cab too, so I'm not so sure that without the cover I would be able to see the head anyway. I likely do the same as you, lots of jumping in & out to get the alignment correct, while reversing until you finally get proper hitch engagement. Takes a few tries for sure.

My buddy with a long bed pickup and one of those low profile canister covers can see his hitch head by simply turning his head around. Must be nice! I can't afford to lose the bed capacity with those canister covers - take up too much precious room. You can see in that pic above I got a tool box in the bed between my hitch and front bed.

[bobbecky]

When we got our PullRite, I saw the problem right away. Got a carabiner to go into the hole in the side of the hitch head, and then coiled the breakaway cable with a couple of cable ties. This has worked well for over four years. If the cable coiled like that doesn't suit you, I've seen the red stretchy coiled replacement cables that would work too.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_208294_0_5fd1748e183cb1a5921c2e5da06c6c52.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_208294_1_7645c2509cd5b4c44971cdd286d90cbd.jpg

[Tom N OH]

Carabiner clip & coiled cord, the breakaway cable should NEVER be attached to any part of the hitch that could become separated from the truck. It should be attached to the truck itself, such as the cargo tiedowns that some have mentioned using.

[bobbecky]

Not wanting to start an argument, but I would think that is much better than just putting the loop of the cable over the end of the release handle, which is how I see quite a number of rigs hooked up that way. With all the movement of these auto sliders, the cable is always getting hung up on something on the hitch or in the bed, and getting stranded with locked brakes in the middle of an intersection or other congested location is a very dangerous situation to be in. It works for me, and I just tossed it out as a suggestion.

[CWSWine]

Would one these work for you?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/717HacA5YaL._SL1500_.jpg

Here it is on Amazon.
Fastway 80-01-2160 Zip Breakway Cable, 6'

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRYHG70/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=33OTOLW92UK0L&coliid=I1JN2VE50XW7T

[bsmith0404]

Not wanting to start an argument, but I would think that is much better than just putting the loop of the cable over the end of the release handle, which is how I see quite a number of rigs hooked up that way. With all the movement of these auto sliders, the cable is always getting hung up on something on the hitch or in the bed, and getting stranded with locked brakes in the middle of an intersection or other congested location is a very dangerous situation to be in. It works for me, and I just tossed it out as a suggestion.

Yes what you're doing is much better than looping it on the release handle, but the point Tom N OH was making is that your break away cable should not be hooked to the hitch at all. If the hitch would ever break away your brakes would not be activated. It is the same concept with a TT, the cable should not be connected to the receiver hitch. The break away cable should be connected to an independent point of the vehicle separate from the hitch. That is why many use a cargo tie down point in the bed.

[Bushman512000]

I just use some black tape make a loop and tape and tape the end to the handle .miles and miles never a miss or problem ..Bushman:)

[first time 5er]

We'll lets look at it this way. If the trailer some how disconnects from the vehicle,and the trailer brakes are electric. the brake away pulls out and the brakes lockup causing the trailer to slow down. But by the time you realize whats happening the 7 way pulls out thus cutting off the electric to the brakes and they free wheel again. So unless you can slow down the tow vehicle at the same rate as the trailer ...?
Am i missing something here?

I would think if you felt your tow vehicle move in a violent action such as the nose of your trailer hitting the tailgate. Your natural reaction would be to slow down and check your mirrors. If the brake away cord did not pull out yet because it was clipped to the rear corner in your bed, the trailer would not slow down and would be in your cab if you panic and hit the brakes.
I do agree if for some reason your fifth wheel comes off your truck the brakes wouldn't lock. But i would think that the odds are much higher of it not being locked in correctly, than the fifth wheel coming off. I hook mine to the fifth wheel with a short cord, as the distance from the brake away to the fifth wheel doesn't change with the position of the trailer also the brakes would apply faster if it came out of the fifth wheel. Now the bumper hitch is different because you have the safety chains to keep the trailer from getting way. just my opinion

[bsmith0404]

The part you're missing is that when your brake away cable is activated your trailer brakes are operated by the RV battery. That is why all trailers with an electric brake system have a battery. My car trailer uses a small lawn mower type batter mounted on the tongue. Transporters have to carry batteries with them to mount in the RV and the DOT will check that the brake away system is functional when disconnected from the TV. If I remember correctly, the system must activate and hold the brakes for at least 5 mins.

If your trailer ever comes disconnected from the hitch, it won't matter where the cable is connected, it will activate. If your hitch head ever breaks away from the legs, or the legs/rails from your truck, and your cable is connected to the release lever you have a runaway RV that is more likely to hurt or kill someone. A lawyer will have some fun proving negligence.

[first time 5er]

he he I guess i WAS missing something
Just thought of that this morning in the shower.
he he

[xcntrk]

Thanks for all the great input and discussion all!

For such a simple modification, I'm still challenged in coming up with the right solution here. I bought one of those spiral coil cords to replace the fixed OE cable. It's got a on a clasp on the end but is only 4' in length. I currently have it snapped to the hitch head and the coil keeps any excess from getting hung up. This gets me down the road and the break-away system is indeed hooked up (although arguably incorrectly).

I would prefer anchoring the cable to a fixed point on my rig, however the rear bed tie-downs on either side won't work in my situation. I use a factory bed extender that folds up against the sides when towing my 5'er. That accessory blocks access to the tie-downs. Also the manner in which the head pivots on the Superglide would make for an extreme angle on the cable when the head is pivoted to one side, and the anchor is on a tie-down located at the opposite side. The ideal situation would be to have a fixed anchor centered at the rear of the truck bed. Like a footman loop or mounting tab to clasp the cord straight downward from the pinbox. That would allow the head to pivot side-to-side while keeping the cable out of the way, and still keep a relatively short cable that's quick to engage in a breakaway situation. More exploring necessary on my part to find an idea setup. Meanwhile, I'm not too concerned about the current anchor point on the hitch head ;)

[bsmith0404]

Go down to your local hardware/home improvement store and get a small d-ring and a couple self tapping sheet metal screws. You can mount it anywhere you want to work best for your situation. Takes about a minute to install.

[Richard Noble]

This has been an interesting tread. It has caused me to examine the break-away cable which I found has been crushed in three places so I replaced it with a coiled one. Now I have to determine a proper place to attach it. How about the bed rail? The hitch may come loose but I can't picture the rail pulling out. Matter of fact, I've never heard of the hitch coming loose. I take that back, I did hear of the main pivot pin working loose and I then checked mine. Good thing I did because the pin that held the pivot pin in was gone and the pivot was working its way out!

[Richard Noble]

tucker - I received your private message but I can't seem to find a way to reply directly to you. Anyway, concerning your trip to Gunnison, CO. No mater which way you across Colorado from the east you are going to hit high mountain passes. Coming through Canon City on highway 50 (the most direct way) you have to climb Monarch Pass. At well over 11,000 feet, it is a hard climb. Going down the western side, take your time, down shift and control your speed. Go easy on the brakes and use your gears. This pass is beautiful! Gunnison has a lot of 4x4 trails and wonderful views.
The fishing isn't bad. We have had a lot of rain lately so catching may not be the best but the fishing is. Hope you enjoy the stay. Don't take any local "product" home!

[Campy]

Connect it to the rear of the bed on a cargo clip as other have stated. If it would ever come loose you really want it away from your truck before the brake away activates or it will get ugly tangling with your truck. It will most likely damage the bed sides anyway but you don't want the brakes activating while its still over your bed.

[bsmith0404]

Connect it to the rear of the bed on a cargo clip as other have stated. If it would ever come loose you really want it away from your truck before the brake away activates or it will get ugly tangling with your truck. It will most likely damage the bed sides anyway but you don't want the brakes activating while its still over your bed.

Campy, not sure I understand the advantage of what you're saying. Although I agree with connecting it to a cargo tie down at the rear of the bed (that's what I do) I don't understand the advantage of it activating before or after it has cleared the bed. I would think that activating a little sooner would actually be a benefit by locking the trailer wheels up quicker after it comes loose which would create quicker separation from the TV. Personally, at 60 mph, I don't think 1-3' of will make much difference, split seconds. If anything, it may be a bit safer if the breakaway system would activate while the trailer is still over the bed of the truck. The tailgate of the truck could pull the unhitched RV along for a bit not allowing the system to activate, where a trailer with an activated system would make short work of the tailgate.

[DetnNet]

I had the same thing happen to me yesterday making a right turn into a parking spot of a rest stop. Could not figure out why the brakes to the 5er came on. It was the pin on the emergency brake. System checked out now. Just need a better location to fix the cable to. Great discussion.

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