improvment made...

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Imagine my surprise when I found out my 4X4 was truly a 2X2 ... :banghead

Well this past Monday it became a 2X3. Ford had installed what is known as
an "Open" rear end meaning the drive wheel was the Right hand one. Nothing
from the Left hand wheel. So I did my research and found the Eaton Detroit
Tru-Track. It's a limited-slip rear that automatically kicks in when the R-side
wheel slips or looses any amount of traction. The tru-track works with helical
gears rather then clutch-packs like others do. So, no requirement to replace
the clutch-pack in another 100K miles or so.
In a few months I'll be able to buy a Tru-track for and do the front diff. as well
creating a true 4X4 "bouncey:, :D

[Dave W]

Actually you do have wheel drive from both sides but it depends on the loading of the wheel - that is you have a differential. I too have found that the right side does seem to be the one that puts the power to the road the most often, but that is really not so if it is a differential. Mine also has an open rear but the ESOF and transfer case do lock the two front wheels to pull together. Unfortunately, on mine, the right box for a rear locker wasn't checked when the truck was ordered - and I assumed ...... and you know what 'assume' is short for. Oh well, I cope.

Here's another choice to consider - that is unless you have your heart set on the Eaton: http://www.arbusa.com/Vehicle-Application-Guide.aspx

[1jeep]

you don't want to lock that front axle unless your only planning to use 4x4 in harsh conditions. As for the rear, an open diff is pretty standard on all trucks, they then upsell or package a limited slip or locker into them. My previous ford had the FX4 option which gave it an e locker, current truck being a dually only was available with a limited slip.

Also if you are having traction issues with an open diff, give the brakes a couple taps some times that will cause the non spinning wheel to grab.

Years of off roading and having jeeps with Detroit lockers I can tell you I wouldnt add one up front to a daily driver nor would I use that "tru track" as the side plate notches tend to wear out.

[SADLY]

you don't want to lock that front axle unless your only planning to use 4x4 in harsh conditions. As for the rear, an open diff is pretty standard on all trucks, they then upsell or package a limited slip or locker into them. My previous ford had the FX4 option which gave it an e locker, current truck being a dually only was available with a limited slip.

Also if you are having traction issues with an open diff, give the brakes a couple taps some times that will cause the non spinning wheel to grab.

Years of off roading and having jeeps with Detroit lockers I can tell you I wouldnt add one up front to a daily driver nor would I use that "tru track" as the side plate notches tend to wear out.

Ditto all this ^^

[mfifield01]

I previously had a 2wd truck. I towed a boat with it and some ramps were difficult. I put in the trutrac and it helped out (just rear axle). It basically went from a 1 wheel drive to 2. I didn't have any problems with it as a daily driver. I could see binding issues with it in the front axle.

[1jeep]

just to clarify tru track we are referring to the kit that is loaded in place of the spider gears. Unless they have changed a lot over the years, I knew people that actually had the side notches wear down to the point where it would no longer lock and eventually caused the vehicle to have zero traction. Yes, they are much easier to install than a Detroit or limited slip as you don't have to pull the carrier and set backlash, but if it were my daily driver I would go with a eaton, Detroit locker or a limited slip.

Just my opinion.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Thanks for the "positive" replies ...
Just so there is no guessing as to what was installed;
https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/eaton-detroit-truetrac-differentials/axle-model/ford-10-5-in
and the bearing and shim kit that are shown to the Left were also used
to get the proper 'fit'.
This rear, allows me to drive 'normally' as an Open rear end but transfers
power to the non slipping wheel when there is an imbalance of traction
see Part 2;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIGvhvOhLHU
My main problem has been what is shown in part 1.
All-in-all I reckon the main thing is that I'm happy with what has been
done and if you disagree then ...

hankaye

[Desert185]

I installed a TruTrac in my K10 airporter/wood hauler a number of years ago. Works great and no limited slip additive required. Enjoy the traction. :cool:

[hankaye]

Desert185, Howdy;

Thanks. I tend to go places like the Gila Wilderness and travel the Forest
Service Roads. Nothing but gravel, hairpin turns and some truly serious
grades. Having good traction is essential.

hankaye

[Desert185]

Desert185, Howdy;

Thanks. I tend to go places like the Gila Wilderness and travel the Forest
Service Roads. Nothing but gravel, hairpin turns and some truly serious
grades. Having good traction is essential.

hankaye

Plan on doing a drain early to remove wear in metals and having a diff cover like a Mag-Hytec with extra capacity, a drain plug and a dipstick magnet filler port is a nice addition. :thumbsup:

[bsmith0404]

I have an Eaton in my truck, works well. My only complaint is that it gets a bit of shudder every now and then due to the torque from the Duramax. I've tried different gear oil, Mobil 1, Mystik SX 7000, both full synthetic. I've found that the GM grape juice works the best, but I really hate the smell of that stuff.

I've also added a Mag-Hytec diff cover. It takes 7.5 qts to fill it up, so not a cheap process, about $100 with tax for any of the above fluids. Not a good time to experiment with fluid changes.

[hankaye]

bsmith0404, Howdy;

I have an Eaton in my truck, works well. My only complaint is that it gets a bit of shudder every now and then due to the torque from the Duramax. I've tried different gear oil, Mobil 1, Mystik SX 7000, both full synthetic. I've found that the GM grape juice works the best, but I really hate the smell of that stuff.

I've also added a Mag-Hytec diff cover. It takes 7.5 qts to fill it up, so not a cheap process, about $100 with tax for any of the above fluids. Not a good time to experiment with fluid changes.

Have you read the literature that came with the rear when you receive it?
https://www.google.com/search?q=installation+directions+for+Detroit+tru-track&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
The top selection is for a PDF of the Owner's Manual that is included with
the unit when it ships.
This is what it says for my application;
"What kind of oil should I use? Can I use synthetic?
Do I need friction additive/modifier?
Truetrac units perform best when using GL5 mineral /
petroleum based gear oil. Synthetic lubes are
discouraged. Do NOT use friction modifier additives or
lubes formulated with friction modifiers. See the
“Lubrication” section of this product manual for further
details and specifications."

hankaye

[sourdough]

I've installed Detroit Tru Tracs in 2 vehicles and had no problems with them. The last set was on the front and back of a 1990 Ramcharger that I built up. I didn't want lockers because I wanted to drive it on the street....and it worked great for that. Off road they worked great too; not as good as a locker or an ARB but good enough for what I wanted to do. The only drawback I experienced was on snowy roads where you had snow and then pavement. The Tru Trac would grab and then release as you hit snow then pavement. Not enough to set you spinning but enough to make you pay attention - primarily noticeable because of the front end.

[Desert185]

bsmith0404, Howdy;



Have you read the literature that came with the rear when you receive it?
https://www.google.com/search?q=installation+directions+for+Detroit+tru-track&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
The top selection is for a PDF of the Owner's Manual that is included with
the unit when it ships.
This is what it says for my application;
"What kind of oil should I use? Can I use synthetic?
Do I need friction additive/modifier?
Truetrac units perform best when using GL5 mineral /
petroleum based gear oil. Synthetic lubes are
discouraged. Do NOT use friction modifier additives or
lubes formulated with friction modifiers. See the
“Lubrication” section of this product manual for further
details and specifications."

hankaye

I think he has the clutch type Eaton, not the Truetrac. Never heard of a Truetrac shuddering like a clutch type LSD.

[Desert185]

I have an Eaton in my truck, works well. My only complaint is that it gets a bit of shudder every now and then due to the torque from the Duramax. I've tried different gear oil, Mobil 1, Mystik SX 7000, both full synthetic. I've found that the GM grape juice works the best, but I really hate the smell of that stuff.

I've also added a Mag-Hytec diff cover. It takes 7.5 qts to fill it up, so not a cheap process, about $100 with tax for any of the above fluids. Not a good time to experiment with fluid changes.

I use Valvoline synthetic 75 or 85W140 (whatever it is) in mine without an additive, because the additive is part of the Valvoline formula. No shuddering with the stock Dodge LSD. FWIW...

[bsmith0404]

Yes, mine is the G80 that is used by GM. It uses clutches to drive the shaft that the pawl is on which engages the locking mechanism. I've talked to engineers at Mystik, Mobil, and Eaton and no one really has any answers for me as to why I'm having problems with certain lubes because all of them meet the specs required for Eaton, although the GM lube (made by Texaco) is the only one with extended testing. The engineers at Mystik did ask me to send them samples from the rear end for testing. The only information I can find is that using synthetics that meet GM specs is acceptable, they may cause additional chatter, but will not harm the rear end. I have never experienced a rear end that was this fussy with the lube used.

I don't have any experience with the Truetrac, but my point was that Eaton makes a good product and I would use the recommended fluids, right down to the brand, if they provide that.

[hankaye]

bsmith0404, Howdy;

I have an Eaton in my truck, works well. My only complaint is that it gets a bit of shudder every now and then due to the torque from the Duramax. I've tried different gear oil, Mobil 1, Mystik SX 7000, both full synthetic. I've found that the GM grape juice works the best, but I really hate the smell of that stuff.

I've also added a Mag-Hytec diff cover. It takes 7.5 qts to fill it up, so not a cheap process, about $100 with tax for any of the above fluids. Not a good time to experiment with fluid changes.

So, I did a little sniffin' around the infernal web and found this by using Eaton G 80 for my search;
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/119339-rear-end-locking-issue/
The key may be in the #3 post where the poster copied an pasted a Tech bulletin pertaining to the
G 80 rear ends. It may or may not apply to you, depends on what you've done with it and the oil
you use. Yes I've read your more recent post ...
Happy reading.

hankaye

[Yak]

As a Ford tech I highly recommend you leave the front diff and open diff, they have worked well with an open front diff for decades. Only hardcore off roaders put a locking or limited slip diff in the front. Ford once offered a limited slip front diff on a snow plow package and it was a bear to drive in 4wd even in snow.

[hankaye]

Yak, Howdy;

Thanks for the suggestion, just starting my research for that and I'll keep
it in mind.

hankaye

[Desert185]

This is probably the best bet for the front diff. Open diff for the street and locked when you really need traction overriding the need for ease of steering.

Personally, I was never hard core enough with a pickup to need it.

http://store.arbusa.com/air-lockers-c7.aspx

[hankaye]

Desert185, Howdy;

I'm still in the considerin'' phase, I may just leave it as it is. Haven't
locked an opinion either way yet.

By-the-way, just what is a "Retired Chemtrail vendor" ?

hankaye

[Desert185]

Hankaye:

There are those who consider contrails (condensation trails) emitted by jets aloft to be government conspiracy "chemtrails" spraying the public with chemicals. As a retired pilot, or 'vendor' who generated his share of contrails (including government aircraft as seen in the avatar during synthetic fuel research), I can say without hesitation, but with humor, that they are contrails and not chemtrails. Kind of fun to poke the theorists, though. :cool: