Chillaxin' III
06-11-2016, 04:21 AM
Hey guys,
I'm relatively new to this forum; but like all forums I join--I try to jump right in and get involved!
I've been researching other people's threads about adding / replacing / modifying their factory speakers, and I wanted to start an all-inclusive speaker thread all by itself...without the need to "search" and read dozens of pages to get to some sort of speaker-related discussion.
So here goes:
I have a 2015 Keystone Bullet 310BHS. It came equipped with some really LOUSY speakers. A brand called "Pummel Drive". (?) They suck, they have tiny little magnets, and they're certainly not "pummeling" anything (especially not with BASS). So I replaced the two interior speakers today.
THE INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR SPEAKERS ARE IN FACT 5.25". The interiors (with the twist-off white grilles) have a FRAME that is CLOSE to a 6.5", but not quite. They are a larger frame with a smaller 5.25" speaker housed in them.
I replaced my interior speakers with a pair of Boston Acoustics SE65 6.5" coaxial (2-way) speakers. They feature poly cones and a rubber surround, and a textile (not Mylar, titanium or aluminum) dome tweeter, for softer highs without being tinny or harsh. Since Boston recently stopped producing car audio components; I got them for half price ($65 vs. $120).
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_204147_0_e4ae1ed2e5b8e89437d33dbf15a6a6e7.jpg
ON MY CAMPER, I HAD 3" OF ROOM BEHIND THE CEILING FOR "MOUNTING DEPTH"--WHICH IS A LOT. YOU'D HAVE A LITTLE MORE IF YOU COMPRESS THE FIBERGLASS INSULATION SLIGHTLY.
I had to enlarge the stock openings by about 5/16" and I did this with a cordless jig saw with a shortened (cut-off) blade tip to minimize the chances of contacting any other wiring, fiberglass insulation or roof structure while cutting. The ceiling panels in these campers are made from a light weight Luaun plywood, and cut very easily. I used a fine-toothed saw blade made for thin metal; so it wasn't too aggressive. In fact, the new cut line (circle) that I drew intersected all 8 original screw mounting holes--so the old mounting holes were all cut out when I enlarged the opening.
I drilled 4 new pilot holes and voila! They look amazing, sound phenomenal, and are actually lower-profile (grilles) than the stock speakers, to ensure clearance (1") under the slide-out room's wooden trim frame. The bass will improve in a few days, after the voice coils and rubber surrounds are broken-in; as with all high-end speaker drivers.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_204147_1_157ca2831dbb949b1fd00624571c1ad6.jpg
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_204147_2_d6e2a34d256820eb28cdd6aa7ca1f42a.jpg
The exteriors are 5.25" with a standard frame and grille size. I will be replacing the two exterior speakers with higher quality marine speakers this week.
THIS IS A VERY EASY MODIFICATION, GUYS!
Please help me add to this thread with your replacement speakers specs, installation details, pictures, etc. Thanks guys!
--Rob
I'm relatively new to this forum; but like all forums I join--I try to jump right in and get involved!
I've been researching other people's threads about adding / replacing / modifying their factory speakers, and I wanted to start an all-inclusive speaker thread all by itself...without the need to "search" and read dozens of pages to get to some sort of speaker-related discussion.
So here goes:
I have a 2015 Keystone Bullet 310BHS. It came equipped with some really LOUSY speakers. A brand called "Pummel Drive". (?) They suck, they have tiny little magnets, and they're certainly not "pummeling" anything (especially not with BASS). So I replaced the two interior speakers today.
THE INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR SPEAKERS ARE IN FACT 5.25". The interiors (with the twist-off white grilles) have a FRAME that is CLOSE to a 6.5", but not quite. They are a larger frame with a smaller 5.25" speaker housed in them.
I replaced my interior speakers with a pair of Boston Acoustics SE65 6.5" coaxial (2-way) speakers. They feature poly cones and a rubber surround, and a textile (not Mylar, titanium or aluminum) dome tweeter, for softer highs without being tinny or harsh. Since Boston recently stopped producing car audio components; I got them for half price ($65 vs. $120).
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_204147_0_e4ae1ed2e5b8e89437d33dbf15a6a6e7.jpg
ON MY CAMPER, I HAD 3" OF ROOM BEHIND THE CEILING FOR "MOUNTING DEPTH"--WHICH IS A LOT. YOU'D HAVE A LITTLE MORE IF YOU COMPRESS THE FIBERGLASS INSULATION SLIGHTLY.
I had to enlarge the stock openings by about 5/16" and I did this with a cordless jig saw with a shortened (cut-off) blade tip to minimize the chances of contacting any other wiring, fiberglass insulation or roof structure while cutting. The ceiling panels in these campers are made from a light weight Luaun plywood, and cut very easily. I used a fine-toothed saw blade made for thin metal; so it wasn't too aggressive. In fact, the new cut line (circle) that I drew intersected all 8 original screw mounting holes--so the old mounting holes were all cut out when I enlarged the opening.
I drilled 4 new pilot holes and voila! They look amazing, sound phenomenal, and are actually lower-profile (grilles) than the stock speakers, to ensure clearance (1") under the slide-out room's wooden trim frame. The bass will improve in a few days, after the voice coils and rubber surrounds are broken-in; as with all high-end speaker drivers.
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_204147_1_157ca2831dbb949b1fd00624571c1ad6.jpg
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_204147_2_d6e2a34d256820eb28cdd6aa7ca1f42a.jpg
The exteriors are 5.25" with a standard frame and grille size. I will be replacing the two exterior speakers with higher quality marine speakers this week.
THIS IS A VERY EASY MODIFICATION, GUYS!
Please help me add to this thread with your replacement speakers specs, installation details, pictures, etc. Thanks guys!
--Rob