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libslowmo1
06-09-2016, 11:24 AM
inherited a Troy-Bilt Model 030378, 3250/3500 Watts. Appears as though it should produce 13.5 Amps with 27.1 starting Amps. Out TT has 13.5 AC Unit. Should this generator be capable of starting and running this size AC without harming it's compressor? Thanks in advance for your comment/sharing your knowledge!

dcg9381
06-09-2016, 12:59 PM
inherited a Troy-Bilt Model 030378, 3250/3500 Watts. Appears as though it should produce 13.5 Amps with 27.1 starting Amps. Out TT has 13.5 AC Unit. Should this generator be capable of starting and running this size AC without harming it's compressor? Thanks in advance for your comment/sharing your knowledge!

3250 / 3500 watts is enough to start it.

However, you cannot judge by straight watts if you have a 30A trailer.

However - and that's a 2008 model generator so it's hard to find specs:

If the plug is 4-prong 240V, likely it's going to be wired with a 13A circuit breaker on the 240 connection. If you adapt it to your 30A plug, using only one side of the 4-prong 240 connection, you'll get LESS available power than by using the regular 120V plug.

Likely, best case, the thing has 120V @ 20A connections. You'll be limited to 2400 watts. If it's got 15A breakers, 1800 watts.

You really need a genset that was designed for 30A @ 120V output.

libslowmo1
06-12-2016, 05:26 AM
Thank you for the quick reply. Going to sell it and use the proceeds to help pay for one that will do the job. Again thanks for taking the time to help Cindy and I out.

Desert185
06-12-2016, 09:33 AM
3250 / 3500 watts is enough to start it.

However, you cannot judge by straight watts if you have a 30A trailer.

However - and that's a 2008 model generator so it's hard to find specs:

If the plug is 4-prong 240V, likely it's going to be wired with a 13A circuit breaker on the 240 connection. If you adapt it to your 30A plug, using only one side of the 4-prong 240 connection, you'll get LESS available power than by using the regular 120V plug.

Likely, best case, the thing has 120V @ 20A connections. You'll be limited to 2400 watts. If it's got 15A breakers, 1800 watts.

You really need a genset that was designed for 30A @ 120V output.

I'm challenged when it comes to electrics, so help me out. I have a 13.5 AC in the bedroom. When the trailer is plugged in to a 15a, outside house plug, the AC runs (apparently well) with 12-13 amps indicated on the surge protector.

The question is, why wouldn't this generator of their's do the job of running the AC? No question, though, that a more capable generator, parallel or otherwise, would be more appropriate for more than just running the AC.

dcg9381
06-12-2016, 05:54 PM
The question is, why wouldn't this generator of their's do the job of running the AC? No question, though, that a more capable generator, parallel or otherwise, would be more appropriate for more than just running the AC.

It's not a question of generator watts, which is where the confusion occurs. That generator has enough watts to run the AC.

Simply put, the circuit breaker one side of the the 240V connnector will limit a 30A connected RV to half the rating of the generator. The remaining connector is a 15A or 20A breaker at 120v. Which is, maximum 2400 watts.

Without making it complicated, I'll just say that it's not "wired right" to run an RV.

I learned this lesson by buying a 5500 watt generator in an emergency situation and then finding out that because it wasn't designed for RV use, you really can't get full power out of it. At the time, I simply didn't have another option. It runs my welder great, but can't run a 30A RV.

If you want to try it - no problem there, I'd just offload everything (including the refrigerator) and see if it starts and runs the AC. Likely it's right at the limit, if it will start at all and instead of using the 240V connector, try one of the 2-prongs.

IMHO the best reliable, entry-level generator for a 30A RV is the Champion 3500. It can be had for <$300. From there, they go up - but you're largely paying for less noise.