rusty hot water heater anode thread

[parkgirl]

So we have a 5 year old keystone with a suburban water heater and it's very rusty around the screw-in section where you replace the anode. Our trailer is seasonal so is used all summer and then drained for the winter. We have replaced the anode each year. Last year the replacement (a Camco product that said it was for suburban) didn't seem to screw in far enough so maybe it was leaking a tiny bit over the summer. I did check to make sure there were no visible leaks. That anode did not deteriorate as much as others in the past so we didn't buy a new one and now when we opened the trailer and tried to replace that anode it wouldn't screw in at all. I had saved an old one that is more corroded and it was possible to screw that one in--it had noticeably less to screw in actually so now I'm wondering if the Camco was not a proper fit. Now I'm ordering an actual Suburban part but i wondered if there's a way to clean up the rust around that area. Can I use a product for rust removal? Steel wool even? When you're dealing with the potable water system I'm concerned about doing anything that might get back into the drinking water.

[Festus2]

I use a dental pick together with a rust removal agent (applied to the threads with a toothbrush) to clean and remove the rust in the threads. Let the solution sit for a while then "pick away".

I've found that some anodes screw in farther than others.

Are you wrapping the anode threads with white pipe wrap? If not, I'd suggest that you do. It helps make a better seal and makes it easier to insert and remove the anode.

[chuckster57]

We use Rectors #5, its a yellow paste that doesn't harden and makes anode rod removal a bit easier. As Festus stated, I've found that not all anode rods screw in the same depth.

[hankpage]

I use a 3/4 copper fitting brush to clean the female and male threads for the element. A little vegetable oil helps break down the rust and is non toxic ..... as mentioned use Teflon tape or pipe dope to get a good seal and easy removal. 4 in 1 fitting brush from Home store (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-in-1-Fitting-Brush-313482/202078158)

[GMcKenzie]

Curious about the tape/dope comments. Doesn't that insulate the anode electrically from the rest of the tank, defeating it's purpose?

[hankpage]

The anode is sacrificed through the water not the electrical or metal to metal connection. Same as on fiberglass and wooden boats to protect shafts and props.

[bobbecky]

If the threads are really bad, a 3/4 inch pipe tap will clean up the threads, just don't turn it in too far, just enough to get clean threads. The Suburban manual says to use Teflon tape on the threads.

[JRTJH]

Curious about the tape/dope comments. Doesn't that insulate the anode electrically from the rest of the tank, defeating it's purpose?

If you've ever looked closely at the Teflon tape on the threads when removing the anode, you'll see that the threads "cut" through the tape and make contact. The Teflon tape doesn't "completely isolate" the anode electrically, there's some metal to metal contact through the Teflon. Its main purpose is to help prevent leaks and to help the threads "not corrode together" and "slide" against each other on removal.

[parkgirl]

Thank you so much everyone. I like the idea of the 4-in-1-brush and using a rust removal agent. Thanks hankpage for the link to the 4-in-1 brush. I do use teflon tape and we haven't had trouble removing the anode. I was concerned however that the last one we bought didn't screw in all the way so it's very good to know that this is okay. I think I'll try using CLR to remove the rust, since that's supposed to be safe for coffee pots, etc.. It's also good to know that other people get the rust!
Thanks again,
parkgirl