MorRyde Wet Bolt Kit Install

[slow]

When we returned from our 7,000 mile trip last fall, the TT was creaking. With close to 15,000 miles total on the TT in 1 1/2 seasons, I decided to install a wet bolt kit from MorRyde.

If you want to be spared my commentary and want to get a picture only overview, go to this album: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/album.php?albumid=756


PART 1:

When inspecting the suspension, I notice some nylon material sticking out at one of the spring hangers.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3944

That confirmed my suspicion that our travels had worn out the bushings. Although Dexter had wet bolt kits, none seemed to have all the components I required in one kit, where as MorRyde did have what I needed.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3943

The components in the tandem axle U012-016 kit:
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3942

Based on review of other wet bolt kit installation posts, it was highly recommended by others to use a ball joint or u joint press from Harbor Frieght. I purchased a U joint press from Princess Auto on sale since I am in Canada. Another option would have been to use the free tool rental at Canadian Tire. Note that the ball joint press has accessories, none of which are required for the wet bolt kit install. So the cheaper u joint press is the best option.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3941

[slow]

PART 2:

One challenge I had was the 5 degree slope of my driveway. I therefore decided that I would do one side of the TT at a time with the TT on the ball of the TV. Although I had rubber chocks that I use with the TT, I purchased larger rubber chocks to use with the TV, just to be safer.

The devices I used to support the TT included a couple of unijacks that have the jack stand integrated into the bottle jack, wood blocking and 2 additional bottle jacks. I also made a couple of blocks with a 1 1/2 radius cutout so they would fit up against the axle between the u bolts. Regular jack stands instead of the unijacks would also work, but may require shimming to fine tune the heights.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3940

I used the tongue jack to lift the TT (slightly) so the suspension's equalizer was close to being parallel to the TT frame. Then I set up the blocking and unijacks so that they just contacted the bottom of the frame rails (no lifting) while the TT was still resting on the tires/wheels. This way I would not be lifting the TT but rather keeping it at the same height as when all 4 tires are down. To remove the wheels, I jacked each bottle jack placed under each axle one at a time just enough to remove the wheel. After lowering the bottle jacks under the axles, the frame was supported by the unijacks.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3939

This is what the suspension looked like before I started dismantling it.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3938

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3937

[slow]

PART 3:

I decided to tackle the front and rear spring end bolts/bushings first. (That turned out to be the right approach when it was time to dismantle the equalizer bolts/bushings.)

The first step was to remove the flanged nut from the suspension bolt while using a wrench on the head of the bolt to prevent the bolt from turning and damaging the hanger by the bolt's serrations. With the nut off, but the bolt still in place, I raised / lowered the bottle jack under the axle the spring was attached to until the spring felt loose at the bolt I was removing. I then used the u joint press to press out the bolt.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3935

With the bolt removed, I lowered the bottle jack so the spring eye was visible.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3934

The first bolt that I removed turned out to have the nylon bushing with some of the most wear. That made it easy to remove the bushing from the spring eye.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3933

To remove the bushings that were not as worn, I found that my 12 mm deep 3/8 drive socket was the perfect diameter to drive out the nylon bushings with a hammer.

I cleaned out the bore of the spring eyes with a small wire brush (battery terminal clamp brush). I pre-greased the bore of the bushing and then inserted a brass bushing in the spring eye and raised the axle with the bottle jack to align the center of the bushing with the hanger hole.

MorRyde and Dexter recommend that the cross hole in the wet bolts be orientated on the horizontal axis (9 and 3 o'clock positions) when installed. I decided to install mine with the cross holes as shown by the red dots. The one exception I made was with the center top equalizer bolt.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3932

I had previously prepped all bolts by deburring the cross hole and outside surfaces since they had nicks in them. I also removed the grease fittings and cleaned out the bored centers with brake cleaner and compressed air to be sure there was no debris. I then pre-greased the wet bots to ensure they would take grease. In other posts, some installers have filed a longitudinal groove in the wet bolt. I decided not to since there is ample clearance between the bushing and bolt for grease to flow.

[slow]

PART 4:

Prior to inserting the wet bolt, I applied grease to the outside diameter and I adjusted the bottle jack under the axle so the hanger and bushing aligned vertically. In a couple of cases, they were not aligned horizontally, but it was easy to just push the axle to get alignment.

Next I inserted the wet bolt being careful to have the grease cross hole orientated in the desired direction. Note that I decided to orientate the bolt so the grease fitting was pointed toward the center of the trailer and the nut would be outside. That will make it "easier" to grease without having to remove the wheels, but will mean crawling under the TT.

Using a socket that fit the grease fitting, I used the u joint press to seat the head of the bolt tightly up against the hanger.

(Note: I shimmed the unijack so it was not loading the propane gas line.)
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3931

The nut was then torqued to 50 ft-lbs while holding the head of the bolt to prevent it from turning and damaging the hangers by the serrations.

TIP: The bottle jack should remain in the position you just used to align the spring eye and hanger holes. It will make the wet bolt replacement at the equalizer much easier later.

Before moving on and repeating the above procedure on the other spring eye to hanger bolts, I shot grease into the wet bolts I had just installed while under no load.

[jsmith948]

Well organized post. Great photos and description. Thanks for sharing.
Your info should be very helpful to anyone performing this mod on their trailer.

[slow]

PART 5:

After completing both the front and rear most hanger to spring eye wet bolts, the equalizer was next.

With the bottle jacks still supporting the axles at the previous heights that made the insertion of the wet bolts easy, the top center equalizer to hanger bolt is easily removed without having to support the equalizer.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3930

Next I removed the shackle assemblies from the equalizer and springs. That allowed me to work on the equalizer on a table since the removal of the nylon bushings and installation of the brass bushings were more challenging. More on that in the next post.

I was surprised with the amount of wear of the factory installed nylon bushings. Turned out that 10 of 14 bushings were so worn that IMO they were not acceptable for continued use.

Driver side:
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3929

Passenger side:
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3928

In general terms, the bushings with the most wear were at the front and rear most hangers (due to spring eye shape) and the top equalizer hanger (due to load) locations. Next most significant was the bushings in the spring eyes at the shackles (due to spring eye shape). The four least worn bushings were at the shackle to equalizer connection probably because of the lower load they carry and a better hole in the equalizer than in a spring eye.

[slow]

PART 6:

With the equalizer off the TT, I used the 12 mm deep socket to drive out the nylon bushings. These were the most stubborn to remove and the socket made it much easier.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3927

With the nylon bushings removed from the equalizer, I used 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 1/2 diameter rod to clean out the holes in the equalizer.

The brass bushings were a tight fit into the equalizer. I used an old shackle bolt that I ground off the serrations on to drive the brass bushings into the equalizer. By doing so, I minimised deformation of the ends of the brass bushing.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3926

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3925

The inside diameter of a couple of the equalizer brass bushings needed to be reamed out after installation to ensure the wet bolt did not fit too tight in the bushing. In hind sight, I should have reamed out the holes in the equalizer prior to installing the brass bushings. That way I would have had a chance to have had a more consistent fit without the loss in thickness of the thin walled brass bushing.

[slow]

PART 7:

Once the equalizer bushings were installed (and the ID reamed where required), the bushings were pre-greased. Then the equalizer was reinstalled onto the hanger with a wiped on pre-greased wet bolt. The wet bolt was pressed into the hanger using the u joint clamp as was done for the front and rear spring hangers and torqued to 50 ft-lb.

Next the shackles were installed between the spring and equalizer on both sides. Since the wet bolts were already pressed into the shackles at the factory, this was a simple assembly of components (no need to use the u joint clamp). After torquing the shackle nut while holding the wet bolt with a wrench to 50 ft-lbs, I used touch up paint to give me a visual indicator for any loosening of the nut in the future. I also used a grease gun to lubricate the welt bolts while the suspension was in an unloaded condition.
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3924

The end result for the driver side:
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3923

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3922

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3921

I then raised each bottle jack one at a time just enough to re-install each wheel. With both wheels installed, I removed the unijacks before lowering the axle bottle jacks so the tires were back on the ground. With the tires back on the ground and all the lifting devices moved out of the way, I re-greased all the fittings to ensure they all still took grease when loaded.

The above procedure was repeated on the curb side of the TT.

[slow]

PART 8:

A few observation and comments:

* Our TT wheels have been balanced for most of it's life and it has never been on a gravel road other than at slow speeds in a campground. But it has seen rough paved roads that seem to be the norm these days and experienced extended duration wet road conditions on cross country trips.

* The task of upgrading to wet bolts is not that difficult for a DIY. Working myself, it took approximately 6 hours from the time I started lifting the TT, to having all the wheels back on the TT. This is the first time I installed a wet bolt kit or lifted the whole side of our TT. The most time consuming aspect is the preparation and ensuring the TT is safe to work under when elevated.

* The wet bolt kit's brass bushings were a very loose fit in the spring eyes, while very tight in the equalizer. Both may contribute to future durability of the wet bolt setup IMO.

* The use of thin walled nylon bushings is a disappointment from two perspectives IMO. First, it is obvious that they are not appropriate for the application. Second, their use limits how effective a modification such as a wet bolt kit will be because of their small component diameters.

* The use of a thin wall nylon tube, means that the wet bolt kit can only use a thin wall brass bushing. Although I suspect the brass bushing will be somewhat more durable than the nylon, the brass bushing will IMO require regular replacement as well.

* A superior leaf spring pivot point design would use larger diameter shackle bolt diameters and thicker wall bushings thereby requiring larger diameter spring eyes. Compare the rear leaf suspension on your TV vs. that of your TT. No comparison, but both carry similar loads.

Despite these disappointments, I am glad I took the time to install the wet bolt kit PRIOR to damaging mating components that would have resulted in additional expense.

Now that I have this project under my belt, a future project may be to install the wide axle cushioned equalizer (LC257486) from Lippert. But that will wait for when I am replacing the brass bushings in a few years, LOL.

I hope this helps those contemplating a wet bot kit upgrade.

[slow]

Well organized post. Great photos and description. Thanks for sharing.
Your info should be very helpful to anyone performing this mod on their trailer.

Thanks Jack.

My objective was to share what I learned from posts I have studied on this and other forums, as well as my own experience. Some of the best installation posts IMO, are now relatively old. More recent posts on the topic suggest doing searches and those oldies are buried and getting harder to find using Google.

Also, there seems to be some debate as to whether the wet bolt kit is required for lighter trailers. My experience with a relatively new lightweight TT with about 7,500 miles per season suggests suspension bushings definitely require our attention.

[Tbos]

Great group of post. I appreciate all the details and pictures. I'm pretty sure the wet bolt modification will be in our future some day.

[denverpilot]

Excellent documentation job!

[buzzcop63]

You have went to a great deal of trouble to pass on information that many of us will use. Thank you very much for taking the time to share! Its people like you that make this Forum great!

[cardinal96ss]

What a great set of posts. Thanks. That same job is on my agenda for next month.

[GMcKenzie]

Somehow I lol'd at the "I purchased a U joint press from Princess Auto on sale since I am in Canada. Another option would have been to use the free tool rental at Canadian Tire."

You sound like me :):cool:

[slow]

Somehow I lol'd at the "I purchased a U joint press from Princess Auto on sale since I am in Canada. Another option would have been to use the free tool rental at Canadian Tire."

You sound like me :):cool:

Got to have my own, even if I only use it once, LOL.

[slow]

What a great set of posts. Thanks. That same job is on my agenda for next month.

I look forward to hear how the upgrade works out for you and what you find. I hope it goes smoothly for you as it did for me..

[Bob Landry]

This mod should be on everyone's list. Once you see some photos of shackles almost worn out, you'll cringe. I used the Dexter kit, but they are probably about the same. The original shackles are stamped out of 1/8" steel, while the ones in the kit are around 3/8" thick. Once the cheap nylon bushings are worn through, the destruction of the shackles begins immediately, and this happens within just a few thousand miles. Serious stuff. Failure of these components could cause you to lose the suspension on your rig.

[Sulphur1]

Thanks for sharing your method and photos.
I was going to use Never Fails but after reading posts about wet bolts decide on them instead.Due to shipping cost to Australia (A$100) at the time I decided to try Wet Bolts with thicker nylon bushings that are normally used here. The Aussie supplier said there was never any problem with this combination. I had new springs made as well (US ones were stamped 'China') that accommodate the larger bushings. Also have a full length second leaf included to 'catch' the spring pack should the main on snap.
I found the centre Lippert 'Trail Air' rockers had non lubed bronze bushings so also replaced with wet bolts. I also used thicker slightly longer shackle plates similar to the MoreRyde but they needed relieving for max travel at the rocker.
All bolts were removed with a large G-clamp & socket for spacer. Wet bolts were forced in with a hammer & socket or a G-clamp & socket.
I've given the Never Fail's I was intending to use to my friend so it will be interesting to compare the performance of the two.
Cheers
Jon

[Dave W]

Great thread with lots of good information. It's a a very appropriate, timely thread for me as my MorRyde wet bolt kit is waiting for a few nice days in a row. I did a similar Dexter wet bolt mod to our previous 5er and all of the bushings looked like the first one you showed. I also cross drilled the grease hole to ensure that there was good distribution plus installed easier to access angled grease fittings since Dexter provided some (most of them!!) that would not pass lube even free of the bolt.

[Desert185]

This should be a sticky.

When I did mine, I called MOR/ryde to comfirm the kit number I needed for my factory equipped CRE/3000 equalizer. The MOR/ryde kit was actually made by/with Dexter parts and is available online with a Google search.

Edit: Folks, do this ASAP when you get your trailer, new or used, and follow up with removing the China bombs and checking the wheel bearings, seals and brakes. The grief you save will be your own. :thumbsup:

[bg71361]

This should be a sticky.

When I did mine, I called MOR/ryde to comfirm the kit number I needed for my factory equipped CRE/3000 equalizer. The MOR/ryde kit was actually made by/with Dexter parts and is available online with a Google search.

Edit: Folks, do this ASAP when you get your trailer, new or used, and follow up with removing the China bombs and checking the wheel bearings, seals and brakes. The grief you save will be your own. :thumbsup:

Which kit part number did they give you?

[Desert185]

Which kit part number did they give you?

It was a year ago, so that info is long gone. Sorry.

I recall I gave the trailer year/model, shackle length, 5200# axles and mentioned the CRE/3000 equalizer when I called MOR/ryde direct. He was pretty quick to give me the kit number, which at the time was $88 from Amazon. Probably one of the least expensive yet effective mods to date.

[Desert185]

It was a year ago, so that info is long gone. Sorry.

I recall I gave the trailer year/model, shackle length, 5200# axles and mentioned the CRE/3000 equalizer when I called MOR/ryde direct. He was pretty quick to give me the kit number, which at the time was $88 from Amazon. Probably one of the least expensive yet effective mods to date.

Found the box in the shop. U012-016 is the kit number. Still $88 and change on Amazon.

[bg71361]

Found the box in the shop. U012-016 is the kit number. Still $88 and change on Amazon.

..Thanks :)

[Dave W]

As I noted in Post 20, I have since done mine -- every original nylon bushing was worn through and at 12-15,000 miles. The MORryde CRE will already have the bronze bushings so you will have spares. I also added one inch longer 9/16" U-bolts plus a 1" block to level the 5er up while towing. A note about the original 1/2" U-bolts as supplied by Keystone, all nuts were looser then the correct torque value of 65 lb ft and spun off easily. Another note - the center shackles will probably reverse. I levered one pair back, the other will move into position when the trailer is returned to the ground. Good time to check and adjust the brakes and magnets plus clean and repack the wheel bearings.

While recently towing the 5er, I noticed less motion over bumps and some squeaks and rattles are now gone:D

[JimDogs]

This was such a great write-up with pictures that it motivated me to tackle the job on my 2015 Laredo 314RE. I used the Dexter kit from eTrailer that included the EZ Flex equalizer. I had used this part on my previous rig, 2007 Cougar TT, and I loved the way it pulled with the EZ Flex installed.

Now the real story here is that I am 57 Y/O and fat and I have torn the rotator cuffs in both shoulders, so my wrenching is limited. Still, following the write-up I was able to do the job in 4.5 hours for both sides. I used 2 floor jacks instead of the bottle jacks which made it easier to move the axles as needed.

Don't be afraid of this upgrade! It is simply replacing 10 bolts! I look forward to our first trip with this upgrade. Grand Tetons here we come!

[gtsum2]

Good upgrade. Did mine last weekend. Aside from trying to remove a bronze bushing in the cre3000 (mistake) it went smoothly. Impact tools made it go quickly as did the 6 point level up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mfifield01]

Thanks for all of the tips. I went to Advance Auto and loaned a ball joint removal tool. That tool and a pneumatic impact wrench helped expedite things. It took me about 3 hours on the passenger side and 2 on the driver's side. The nylon bushings didn't look that bad. The trailer should have over 10,000 miles now with shipping from the factory (Truck Brake Controller indicates around 9,500). I feel that the bushing could have gone another 5-10,000 miles, but it's piece of mind for me. The squeaky suspension is gone now.

[Tinner12002]

As I noted in Post 20, I have since done mine -- every original nylon bushing was worn through and at 12-15,000 miles. The MORryde CRE will already have the bronze bushings so you will have spares. I also added one inch longer 9/16" U-bolts plus a 1" block to level the 5er up while towing. A note about the original 1/2" U-bolts as supplied by Keystone, all nuts were looser then the correct torque value of 65 lb ft and spun off easily. Another note - the center shackles will probably reverse. I levered one pair back, the other will move into position when the trailer is returned to the ground. Good time to check and adjust the brakes and magnets plus clean and repack the wheel bearings.

While recently towing the 5er, I noticed less motion over bumps and some squeaks and rattles are now gone:D

I think you should have went up a size/diameter on your u-bolts...anytime you lengthen them it good practice to go up a size in diameter from 1/2" to 9/16".

[bdaniel]

Here is my experience:

http://www.bobbystuff.com/rv/185/morryde-wet-bolt-kit

Bobby

[rhagfo]

So I will that to make the bronze bushings easier to inst all into the springs and equalizer I bought 1# of dry ice, placed the bronze bushings in t paper bag with the dry ice and put in the freezer over night, this will shrink the bushings and will be easier to install.

[chuckster57]

We haven't ever had to "shrink" the bushings to put them in.

[rhagfo]

We haven't ever had to "shrink" the bushings to put them in.

Well didn't say required, just makes the job easier.

I used a deep socket to recieve the old nylon bushing, and used a vice to use the new bronze to push out the old nylon. I like working smarter not harder, never liked beating into place.

[mfifield01]

I used a standard screw driver to get the nylon bushings out. Then I used a combination of a rubber mallet and bench vice to get the bronze bushings in.

[NorskeBob]

Had the RV dealer install them on our last RV (Lippert kit) and was glad to see them already installed on our Avalanche.

Kit dwg. from lippert EQ-WB2

[ken56]

This upgrade is a necessity in my opinion. I did the Dexter kit on my last trailer that I have since traded in so now I need to do it to the new rig. My old rig towed so much better with this wet bolt kit and new heavier shackles on it that the first test tow out I could not believe the improvement. This should be standard on new trailers today, there is no reason for the crappy nylon bushings. Cheaper.....for the manufacturer, I know.

[rdhouston]

Installed the kit this week. Went pretty well. Big deadblow helped motivate things. Center bushings were worn through. All zerks were good. I have two 12 ton jackstands which were perfect as they are very tall.

TT is Bullet Premier 29RKPR with 15k miles on it.

Went into bearings for first time. Didn't pump EZ Lubes as it has been a couple years and did not trust seals. The bearings had a light wipe of grease on them. Ordered up all new bearings and seals so those go on this week too.

Headed to Branson on Sunday so that'll be the shakedown.

[rdhouston]

Rear seals were leaking slightly so I'm glad I didn't pump up the EZ Lubes.

[Cqyqte]

Canadian here with a Keystone Springdale by Summerland trailer gross weight 7500lbs and just approaching 15000 kms in our second year and I noticed some inside edge wear on the trailing wheels. Decided that the suspension must be loosening or binding a bit causing the wear. So I decided to order the Dexter wet bolt kit and replace the less than desirable OEM nylon bushing and bolts. All nylon sleeves were worn through and the bolts starting to show shiny spots. The job wasn't as difficult as thought, especially when performed in the same manner as "Slow" described. One word of caution to those ordering the Dexter 1 3/4" suspension kit, because the Correct Track system the wet bolts in the Dexter kit for the front and rear adjustable spring eyes are too short. So unless you ordered 4 longer wet bolts you will have to reuse the existing OEM bolts in the new bronze bushings. I will order 4 longer ones and swap them out before our next trip.

[MerlinB]

One word of caution to those ordering the Dexter 1 3/4" suspension kit, because the Correct Track system the wet bolts in the Dexter kit for the front and rear adjustable spring eyes are too short. So unless you ordered 4 longer wet bolts you will have to reuse the existing OEM bolts in the new bronze bushings. I will order 4 longer ones and swap them out before our next trip.

I ordered the wet bolt kit from Morryde and encountered the same problem. When I contacted Morryde they knew exactly what the deal was and they sent me the four longer bolts for no charge. Can't beat that deal.

[eokip1]

I still have my 23RB and after a year in bed, I'm getting ready to do the wet bolts. you mention replacing the equalizer with part# LC257486. Can't find it! What do you recommend as a upgrade for what I have? The one I have looks just like the one in your picture, just don't know if that upgrade is your 23RB or your new Jayco. Your input would be really appreciated! Erik Kip

[sourdough]

I still have my 23RB and after a year in bed, I'm getting ready to do the wet bolts. you mention replacing the equalizer with part# LC257486. Can't find it! What do you recommend as a upgrade for what I have? The one I have looks just like the one in your picture, just don't know if that upgrade is your 23RB or your new Jayco. Your input would be really appreciated! Erik Kip



If you were responding to the OP slow you might want to send him a PM. This thread is about a year and a half old. He may or may not see it. I do believe I've seen a post from him fairly recently.

[slow]

I still have my 23RB and after a year in bed, I'm getting ready to do the wet bolts. you mention replacing the equalizer with part# LC257486. Can't find it! What do you recommend as a upgrade for what I have? The one I have looks just like the one in your picture, just don't know if that upgrade is your 23RB or your new Jayco. Your input would be really appreciated! Erik Kip

I am still around learning as much as I can and posting if I have anything to offer. Good to hear you are up and about.

Looks like the PN has changed and is still available from eTrailer for spread axle setups: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Suspension/Lippert-Components/LC314336.html

Yes, the upgrade was on our 23RB and is recommended along with the wet bolt kit.

[rcashdollar]

Great job describing how you did it. Thank you!

[slow]

Great job describing how you did it. Thank you!

NP. Let us know how the install goes for you and if it resolves the noise issue so other members benefit from your experience.