door lock dead bolt stuck

[lakechopaka]

I have a one year old 24RKSWE Cougar and the front door lock,dead bolt is stuck as well as the lock. I can get the key in part way but not all the way. I have tried lubricants to no avail. My question is if I remove the four screws holding in the assembly from the inside will I be able to get the lock out with the deadbolt stuck? Is there a trick? thank you in advance for your help.
Mike :banghead:

[chuckster57]

Unfortunately there is also two small screws through the edge where the bolt sticks out.

You should be able to retract the deadbolt using the lever inside and the handle should open the door. This is assuming we are talking about an FIC door lock assembly (most common).

[lakechopaka]

yes I have the standard door lock. When you say two small screws is this after I take out the four larger screws holding the plate. Right now I can't move the dead bolt at all so I am assuming once I remove the four screws I have to look for the two small screws as well. is that correct. As always chuckster I appreciate your help!
Mike

[chuckster57]

The two other screws hold the assembly to the door edge, so no you can't see them until the door is open.

Taking off the inner plate should allow you to use locking pliers on the deadbolt retracting knob shaft.

[buzzcop63]

The 2013 Model had lock problems, look up Ken/Claudia, we have the same trailer and Ken has changed locks on his trailer. Also a good tip is to keep the remote control with you, if you get locked out you can still move the slide out so that you can get to the front or back of the trailer.

[denverpilot]

I had the door lock fail (but it wasn't in the recall serial numbers) on our 2013 fiver. I didn't have access to the inside and it was totally jammed.

Ordered a replacement door lock assembly online for about $25-$30 as I recall, and five minutes with a cordless drill and I had the lock drilled out and the door open.

Took longer to remove the screws properly and replace the lock itself than actually destroying the door lock set enough to open it with a cheap cordless drill from Harbor Freight (the one I use for "stupid stuff" like this so if I break it I'm not trashing my good one -- haha.

15 minutes, start to finish not including mouse click time to get the replacement headed this way.

They're not particularly secure nor is the metal of the keyed portion of the lock very tough. I didn't even really have to lube the drill bit, but I grabbed a cheapie throwaway bit, from a cheap set, that I didn't care if I destroyed anyway.

[hankaye]

denverpilot, Howdy;

Did you try getting in through the Storage area and up through the Laundry
hatch??? Or send a 10 year old in if you don't fit or bend enough to do the unlocking for you ...

hankaye

[lakechopaka]

yes I have been able to get inside but I can't move the dead bolt lever either. So it appears I am going to have to remove the plate and try to get the dead bolt out

[Ken / Claudia]

When mine failed I took off the inside plate of the door lock. As I recall the red dead bolt lever came off also. It left a stud of the dead bolt. I used a pliers or vise grip to rotate the dead bolt back without damage to the lock. Than Look at the door key numbers and order a set that are the same as the other door so, than 1 key gets in both doors. Also make sure they number is not on the recall list. Fastec is who you contact, phone or email.

[bg71361]

Recall info link

http://www.fastecindustrial.com/recall/Fastec%20Cylinder%20Recall%20letter.pdf

[lakechopaka]

thank you. I don't think I have the ones under the recall

[lakechopaka]

Thank you guys for your help. I was able to take the plate off and with some serious force of twisting to get the deadbolt back. Replaced with another lock. I don't think after one year of use my lock should not have worked. So I will be calling the manufacture to see what they say.
Again thanks!
Mike
(tx)

[denverpilot]

Thank you guys for your help. I was able to take the plate off and with some serious force of twisting to get the deadbolt back. Replaced with another lock. I don't think after one year of use my lock should not have worked. So I will be calling the manufacture to see what they say.

Again thanks!

Mike

(tx)



I got nowhere with the dealer nor Keystone with that argument, but for $25-$30 whatever it was, it was a race against time -- as in whether or not using up any more of my time was worth it, arguing. :-)

denverpilot, Howdy;



Did you try getting in through the Storage area and up through the Laundry

hatch??? Or send a 10 year old in if you don't fit or bend enough to do the unlocking for you ...



hankaye



No laundry hatch in mine... (Never even seen one of those, actually.)

The pass through on the fiver is rearward of the forward closet where the "laundry" connections are, and no other openings in the bedroom floor or anywhere else to the pass through.

If you were to somehow take the rear wall of the pass through all the way out and crawl past the water heater and all the plumbing, you could see the kitchen and living area through the slotted stairs (heated underbelly I guess they call this, which is nothing more than using the stairs as an air return to the furnace), and you'd still have to destroy the stairs to get into the living area. :-)

Good idea for when one does have one, though.

There's "ways to get in" if you're willing to destroy stuff to get there, always, of course. But I think I'll stick to destroying the lock if I have to do that. Heh heh. Cheapest repair for least amount of destruction.

I just realized, probably no "laundry chute" in our model because it's pre-plumbed to have a washer/dryer in the master bedroom closet. Keystone figured you'd just be doing the laundry not storing it in the pass-through.

We don't use it and I have to remember to winterize those water connections in there every year, but it's nice to know they're there if we ever want to mess around with a washer/dryer in the unit.

Also after measuring real world pin weight, I'm not sure I would want that much weight that far forward anyway, without putting a whole lot of real heavy stuff all the way aft somehow to balance it out. A nice welded-on platform outside behind the act wall at the bumper for a generator and fuel for it would be perfect as a counter-balance for that heavy of a machine in the forward closet.

That reminds me... I need to talk to the welding guy... I meant to have him make that platform this year and integrate it into the rear bumper... and it won't be long before the property dries out enough to pull the trailer out of the yard where the spring mud sometimes keeps it there since I don't want to tear up the place just towing the trailer out to the driveway... ;-)