Problem with underbelly of 2014 Laredo

[Bill & Deb]

I was inspecting my trailer before heading home from Florida in a few weeks and found the black corrugated “plastic" cardboard they install to keep the weather out of the underbelly and the so call insulation in, the screws holding it on had rusted and broken off. In the one picture you will see only the one that is recessed is still holding. This is on driver side behind the rear axle. I drilled new 5/32" holes in the frame and installed new #12 x 1" stainless self screwing sheet metal screws and a 1 inch stainless washer.

I feel that the least Keystone could do is spray a little rubber rust proofing on these screws. If the covering comes off while you are driving it could create a serious hazard.

Has anyone else found this problem. This trailer was built in September of 2013. It has seen almost no snow or salty roads, maybe just once for about half an hour.

Cheers Bill

[dcg9381]

Or they could use stainless. My trailer is a 2015. My guess is that it was transported in the winter months and it showed up not looking as bad as yours (yet) - but definitely taken to surface rust. No salt on the roads down here.

I've gotten under there twice to paint things and freshen things up. Those sheet metal screws are all oxidized an they're on my list of things to replace...

I believe "surface rust" is excluded from warranty.

[gearhead]

Mine aren't looking too good. Did you try using the self drilling and tapping screws without drilling a pilot hole?

[bg71361]

I replaced all my screws shortly after taking delivery, at that time the all ready had rust forming, stainless steel is the way to go.
Good luck

Hope this link works
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheet-metal-screws/=11mcsqy

[Bill & Deb]

Mine aren't looking too good. Did you try using the self drilling and tapping screws without drilling a pilot hole?

No, I did not try drill the hole using the screw without a pilot hole. I was not sure when I got the screws that they would be able to drill through so I grabbed a drill bit just to be sure. The metal appears to be about 3/16 inch thick. I will replace all the screws when I get home as my bathroom gray water valve is sticking a little so I want to remove part of the covering to lubricate it and the cabling.

Bill

[sourdough]

It seems that the screws holding the underbelly are an issue for all of us. On my 2nd trip I hit a rainstorm in hwy 49 in LA. It was a heavy storm and lasted for an hour or so as we were traveling. I stopped for gas and saw water pouring out from under the RV. The front of the bottom liner was hanging down and water was just pouring from the top of the lining. I had to drive back home to TX like that. Thankfully it stopped raining and the wind hopefully dried things out.

When we returned I took it into CW to be repaired. Although it was 2 month out of warranty Keystone approved the repairs. All but 2 of the screws across the front were either rusted off or had completely missed the liner. Just the force of the wind would have pulled the liner off. I had them replace all the screws and install a piece of flashing across the front to stop any intrusion of air or water between the liner and the front of the trailer.

[WaltBennett]

Didn't see any of the aluminum cross bracing that my Monty came with, but it's also next to useless. I haven't done it with all the underbelly, but I did retrofit the front. Replaced the stock aluminum strips with some alum. C channel from Lowe's - about 1" square. Much stiffer and holds the material up better.

As for pilot holes - doing the above, I just used the existing holes, but had lots of fun drilling new ones for the J. T. Strongarm installation.

[dcg9381]

Hope this link works
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheet-metal-screws/=11mcsqy

What's the cross reference size for #12? Most of these seem to be drill size #1-#3

[spicercars]

By the pictures it looks like the frame has a lot of rust so it must have been exposed to a fair amount of salt and that's why the screws are rusting and breaking.

[dcg9381]

Right, but for those of in the south, that's very likely ONE delivery trip starts that sort of corrosion... Although in FL, it could be related to being near the coast too...

[SLIMSHADIE]

Your frame is corroded more than mine and mine is 7 years old????

[Bill & Deb]

By the pictures it looks like the frame has a lot of rust so it must have been exposed to a fair amount of salt and that's why the screws are rusting and breaking.


Trailer was built Sept 17_2013, delivered Oct 10_2013 and it has never seen snow while driving.

I plan to repaint and rust proof the underneath over the summer. I'm going to use the rubber based spray on rust proofing . That's the plan at least.

Bill

[SAABDOCTOR]

here's a tip. make a recording of sanding grunting a spraying. when you finish an area turn on the tape deck lay back on the creaper and enjoy a cold adult soda! the DW will think your working you back side off and won't bother you.:cool: worked for me!

[gearhead]

I rolled under mine yesterday. Wired brushed the rust off one screw and put a 3/8" socket on it. Wouldn't budge, I stopped before I broke it off. Then remembered I had the black tank valve replaced and went to try one in that area. Yeah it came out easy enough. Tried to find a stainless self tapping screw at my local lumber yard, no luck, but I did buy some 1/4" that are zinc coated. Also got 10 stainless fender washers. I got to thinking if I drill into the frame could I hit something...like a tank. I don't know how the tanks are supported. Got my cordless 1/4" impact driver and zipped a couple out and pulled down the chloroplast a little to peek in there. Looked clear to drill anywhere along the I beam flange. I replaced 3 or 4 and thought I would try to add one where it looked like the chloroplast was hanging, it drilled in super easy.
Called Fastenal yesterday, they have the screws in stainless but are 100 to bag and expensive. I tried another lumber yard today for stainless, no, so going to Fastenal Monday.
Ours was built in December so I assume it saw some salt.

[Sulphur1]

Have been working on our 2011 Cougar 299RKS. It has spent all but about 6mths in storage yet the frame & rails have a lot of rust appearing or starting under the powder coating. When wire wheeling the are it looks like the powder coating was done over already rusting steel.
Cheers
Jon

[dcg9381]

enal yesterday, they have the screws in stainless but are 100 to bag and expensive.


I'm likely to go in for a bag.. Correct size is #2?

[gearhead]

I took one of the originals with me to the lumber yard. It was 1/4" diameter screw and had a 3/8" hex head.
Even if your trailer happened to have a smaller size I think I would use 1/4". Especially if you are going back in the same hole. But the one I drilled into the frame went very easy. Get some fender washers as well. They are about twice the diameter of a regular washer and should support the chloroplast better. The zinc coated ones I bought last week had a small rubber washer, like you would use on a metal roof. I took that off and used the fender washers.

[dcg9381]

OK, so the size is 1/4-14 x <length>


Listing a few options, stainless only:
1) https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/31960 - Stainless with epoxy head, 3/8 drive, about $0.50 each

2) http://www.amazon.com/Slotted-Indented-Washer-Stainless-4%2527%2527/dp/B00RACJF02/ref=sr_1_10?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1459174148&sr=1-10&keywords=1%2F4-14X1+stainless - Stainless, not self-tapping (use existing holes), about $.90 each (package of 25)


Note that #14 is screw diameter .242" - so perhaps that would work too? Lot more options in #14, about .33/each:

http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/searchresults.asp?Search=1%2F4-14&Submit=

[HANGAR]

I replaced all my screws shortly after taking delivery, at that time the all ready had rust forming, stainless steel is the way to go.
Good luck

Hope this link works
http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheet-metal-screws/=11mcsqy

(X2) Stainless steel hardware is the answer. We camp next to the beach a couple weeks every year and the SS hardware is as good as new. You'll pay a little more for the SS hardware, but you'll never have to replace it again.

[gearhead]

I used #14 x 1".
Here are the numbers on the Fastenal tag:
180103285
1131985
822963265
14x1 HWH SDS 410SS

The fender washers were P/N 1171212

I twisted the heads off several of the existing crews so I ended up just adding the new ones in between the existing. Most drilled in fairly easy, but a few were tough to get in. I assume I drilled those into the web of the I beam instead of the flange. I did not drill pilot holes. I used a 1/4" cordless impact driver. I just did the section forward of the axles, the rear looked pretty good and had gas lines, spare tire carrier, etc to help support. I looked at 8ft sections of light gauge angle iron that had the holes and slots in it. I might add 2 or 3 of those later.
When I pulled a corner of the chloroplast down to look around I got a couple cups of water on me. I was right under the dump valve so I immediately thought...oh great, a poo-nami. But it was clear and didn't stink. I hoping it's condensate, but I may rig up a pressure test for my water supply lines.

[Bill & Deb]

I used #14 x 1".
Here are the numbers on the Fastenal tag:
180103285
1131985
822963265
14x1 HWH SDS 410SS

The fender washers were P/N 1171212

I twisted the heads off several of the existing crews so I ended up just adding the new ones in between the existing. Most drilled in fairly easy, but a few were tough to get in. I assume I drilled those into the web of the I beam instead of the flange. I did not drill pilot holes. I used a 1/4" cordless impact driver. I just did the section forward of the axles, the rear looked pretty good and had gas lines, spare tire carrier, etc to help support. I looked at 8ft sections of light gauge angle iron that had the holes and slots in it. I might add 2 or 3 of those later.
When I pulled a corner of the chloroplast down to look around I got a couple cups of water on me. I was right under the dump valve so I immediately thought...oh great, a poo-nami. But it was clear and didn't stink. I hoping it's condensate, but I may rig up a pressure test for my water supply lines.

I have decided when I get home from Florida I'm going to replace all my lag screws with the stainless and fender washers. But while I have the chloroplast down I'm going to repair a sticking gray water valve and add some extra insulation.

Bill

[gearhead]

I went back to the lumber yard and bought 2 pieces of the angle iron. Cut one of them to the width of the frame and used the screws to attach midway between the existing braces. I will get the other one done next week.

[gearhead]

I'm hearing on a fishing forum this stuff is great:
http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/

[vschlepp]

It seems that the screws holding the underbelly are an issue for all of us. On my 2nd trip I hit a rainstorm in hwy 49 in LA. It was a heavy storm and lasted for an hour or so as we were traveling. I stopped for gas and saw water pouring out from under the RV. The front of the bottom liner was hanging down and water was just pouring from the top of the lining. I had to drive back home to TX like that. Thankfully it stopped raining and the wind hopefully dried things out.

When we returned I took it into CW to be repaired. Although it was 2 month out of warranty Keystone approved the repairs. All but 2 of the screws across the front were either rusted off or had completely missed the liner. Just the force of the wind would have pulled the liner off. I had them replace all the screws and install a piece of flashing across the front to stop any intrusion of air or water between the liner and the front of the trailer..com

I have finally figured out my underbelly water issue (9 years later).
The left side underbelly has only 3 screws attaching it. They are there to clamp the propane black pipe from tanks to the RH distribution place. I happened to push up on the droopy belly and watched the coroplast slide back and forth.. A screw up at manufacture? Will follow your plan for the front flashing.