2016 Montana High country 370BR

[JAbraham03]

Wondering if anyone has noticed their fenders on the units? I have called Keystone and waiting on a response to whether the fenders are supposed to stick out or not where two slides come together. Tech support at Keystone seemed like they didn't think they are supposed to. Didn't think much about it when picking it up at the dealer until several screws came loose and fell out on the way home. Don't want them to rip off.

If they are supposed to be that way I may silicone them to secure them better.

[Lkha]

Our fuzion started to do the same thing going to have them check slide adjustment

[JAbraham03]

Unfortunately slides are all the way in. If this is the way it is supposed to be then I may make the center part that isnt on a slide stand off so they all go flush upon shutting the slide.

[cw3jason]

the fender on the slide will not be flush with the one on the skirt. The slide sticks out slightly and so will the fender. this is normal

as for the screws. use these

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-8-32-Plain-Steel-Flat-Type-Speed-Nut-2-Pieces-43138/100338662

[sourdough]

That's the way they are supposed to be, unfortunately. My 2014 Cougar High Country look almost identical, and, they do cause a lot of problems due to vibration if you don't do something. I had to have mine replaced 3 times under warranty because they just kept coming loose or disappearing on the road.

The fix is really simple. The part of the fender that sticks out also acts like a big funnel for wind when driving down the road. If yours is like mine, and it appears to be, the inlet is unsupported (except for a screw) and the wind will vibrate the plastic so hard that the factory screws will never stay. I fabricated a piece of aluminum to fit inside the "mouth" of the fender that attached to the fender and to the side of the slide to prevent any vibration from beginning at the front of the fender. I pulled all the factory screws, installed finishing washers under them to spread out the pressure on the factory fender then screwed them into 8x32 speed nuts. No more problems, even on a round trip to FL from TX. This is a design flaw in my opinion but they have used it on lots of trailers and lots of folks have had to get creative to remedy the problem. Good luck.

[gearhead]

It was designed that way on purpose. After many hours in the wind tunnel Thor designed the fender skirt to direct air under the trailer to lessen the negative air pressure effect under and behind the trailer. I talked to the engineer that did the study and he said you will increase your mileage by 0.001%. ahem
Yes, it's pretty ugly.
I need to do what Sourdough suggests.
Hey Sourdough what are you calling "speednuts" , are you talking about nylon locking nuts?

[sourdough]

Below is a link to Home Depot with various types of speed nuts. I generally use the flat but have used the u shape and other designs. They all work . I've not lost ONE screw since I started using them.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/speednuts?NCNI-5

The link below is for the finishing washers I use. The fit under the small head of the screw and work to spread the pressure in the plastic over a wider area. I've had no more cracks in my fenders since using these under the heads of the screws.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/finishing%2520washers?NCNI-5

Hope that helps.

[gearhead]

Below is a link to Home Depot with various types of speed nuts. I generally use the flat but have used the u shape and other designs. They all work . I've not lost ONE screw since I started using them.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/speednuts?NCNI-5

The link below is for the finishing washers I use. The fit under the small head of the screw and work to spread the pressure in the plastic over a wider area. I've had no more cracks in my fenders since using these under the heads of the screws.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/finishing%2520washers?NCNI-5

Hope that helps.

Got it. Thanks! I'll go to work on them in a couple weeks.
I need something to do these days.

[JAbraham03]

I didn't think of those, was thinking locktite or silicone or even a regular nut but those may work too. Thanks for the idea!

I was thinking I would need to close the front of them. I figured that was the way they are supposed to be was just hoping their design team would have taken looks into consideration when the slides are closed. Other than that I am happy with it so far, other than the mass amount of loose/missing screws on the outside so far. One actually wasn't even into the trailer frame on the bottom, just a nick where the drill bit went through the skirt and skipped off the frame. I will be re-drilling that and correcting it.

Excited to get it out and put it through the paces.

[sourdough]

Check the skirting. Both front skirt panels on mine ended up flopping in the wind. Upon inspection I found that the metal strip and screws used to attach the skirting just below the fiberglass had missed most of the top of the skirt. I had to pull it down, readjust it, drill new holes, attach with new screws and fabricate new skirting supports to make them stronger.

I've tried Loctite and silicone both on the screws - not a good solution for me. Regular nuts aren't meant for the self tapping threads on the Roberts screws used all over the trailer. The speed nuts are perfect. When attached properly the tension from the nut holds the screw just fine.

[JAbraham03]

Thanks for the tips. Our first outing with it to test everything out in in two weeks only 10 miles away so I will have time to redo all the screws and make up my squawk list.

[JAbraham03]

Has anyone else purchased this unit that is on the forum? If so what are your thoughts of it and any tips and tricks that you have noticed yet or things to look out for?

[JAbraham03]

We completed our first outting with the unit, just a quick 4 day one to check things out. Love everything on the unit other than the fridge. Was fine for 3 weeks plugged into power in storage nice and cold. 34, and was also fine for the first 2 days. Day 3 we noticed it going up and by the morning on day 4 was at 53! Everything got tossed. The fridge never tried to go back down regardless of cranking setting form 3-5. Drove it home. Plugged it back in after scheduling service appointment and 2 days later the fridge was back to 34.

No one was standing in front of the fridge for long periods when we were camping to let all the air out either. So we cancelled our service appointment once the fridge went back down to wait until our next trip.

I am convinced it is air flow on the outside but both Dometic and Keystone say this cant be the issue. Anyone have the 4 door Dometic fridge. I went with the propane option so we could dry camp. Thinking we should have done the residential fridge now.

Thanks!

[JAbraham03]

So the shop couldnt find anything wrong with the fridge. So I added a fan on the inside and we will see if that helps or not. Last trip I did learn that putting a box fan on the outside of the upper vent panel really helped draw the hot air out and the fridge cooled better. So maybe I need to install better fans near the upper side to do this. Anyone have some mods for this with a slide out mounted fridge?

[dcg9381]

It's a semi-common mod for non-fan'd older fridges. You can even buy a vent cap with a fan in it. We run a circulation fan on the inside of ours.

In regard to the temp rise, I assume the unit was running the entire time - no error codes or not problems trying to light the propane burner?

[NotyetMHCowner]

We are currently camping with our 2015 Montana High Country 305RL and 4 door dometic fridge. With electric on the temps rose to about 47. I put it on propane and by the next morning it was 33 and stayed under 35 all day. So I switched back to electric and it started rising slowly to 39. Apparently mine just doesn't work well on electric with food in it. I have 4 factory mounted fans in the top section of the fridge and I installed a switch behind the lower cover that I can switch the fans on 24/7 or only when the fridge calls for it. In the summer months I run the fans 24/7, even at home.

I had the fridge checked out this past winter under warranty, but it did not act up with them.

[dfb]

Fender skirts "flopping" here as well...

[gearhead]

So the shop couldnt find anything wrong with the fridge. So I added a fan on the inside and we will see if that helps or not. Last trip I did learn that putting a box fan on the outside of the upper vent panel really helped draw the hot air out and the fridge cooled better. So maybe I need to install better fans near the upper side to do this. Anyone have some mods for this with a slide out mounted fridge?
Did you mount the fan near the lower inlet or the upper outlet? One of the little 4" electronic equipment fans? Plug in to 110volt so it runs whenever you're on campground power? I need to look around in there.

[dcg9381]

I can tell you that having an older Norcold with no fans, it was capable of cooling well even in high ambient temps, as long as you kept the door closed.

Norcold will provide direct support.. Maybe your best bet next time things get a little warm.

[chuckster57]

Did you mount the fan near the lower inlet or the upper outlet? One of the little 4" electronic equipment fans? Plug in to 110volt so it runs whenever you're on campground power? I need to look around in there.


Position of the fan isn't that important. I've seen them at the top above the coils and I have mine down under the coils. The fans are 12VDC and most have a temp sensor that controls on/off.

[gearhead]

Hmmm...thinking out loud here...I "think" my Dometic just plugs in to a 120volt outlet. It's been months since I looked. I assume there is another plug available in that outlet. Since it seems the fridge needs the most help when it is on 120volt, I was thinking just plugging in a 120volt electronic type cooling fan. It would run all the time when on campground power. I just put a similar fan under my fishing bait/ice freezer in the garage to help it during summer. Plus I'm getting lazy and looking at the easiest way.

[chuckster57]

The 120VAC is for the heating element. Can't say I've ever seen a factory installed fan that wasn't 12VDC.

[gearhead]

The 120VAC is for the heating element. Can't say I've ever seen a factory installed fan that wasn't 12VDC.

I just pulled the vent covers off. I didn't see a 120 volt outlet. Must have been thinking of the ex Cougar. My logic was: I believe the most help is needed when on 120v, and why not use the CG power. But 12v it will be.

[JRTJH]

I just pulled the vent covers off. I didn't see a 120 volt outlet. Must have been thinking of the ex Cougar. My logic was: I believe the most help is needed when on 120v, and why not use the CG power. But 12v it will be.

Gearhead,

In reality, when you're plugged into CG power, your converter is providing the 12 VDC to operate the fan, so you're using CG power to run the 12 VDC fan.
I know that's a "does it really matter" response to your comment, but essentially "everything electrical" runs off the converter/breaker panel when plugged into CG or home power. (propane appliances excluded, of course)...

[gearhead]

Gearhead,

In reality, when you're plugged into CG power, your converter is providing the 12 VDC to operate the fan, so you're using CG power to run the 12 VDC fan.
I know that's a "does it really matter" response to your comment, but essentially "everything electrical" runs off the converter/breaker panel when plugged into CG or home power. (propane appliances excluded, of course)...

Yeah, but what is it doing when I'm boondocking? I realize it is just .25 amp DC, but it's another draw on the battery when the fridge is running on propane and doesn't seem to need the fan. With 120v it would run all the time I was plugged in, and need it the most, and I wouldn't care.
I bought a 12vDC fan and a switch from Amazon today. I'm not going to tear the 5th apart to find the 120v supply. Next: to find a "hot when on" 12vDC source to power the fan. Or, am I mistaken that there is no 120vAC to the fridge? Maybe I'm just "thinking" I saw a 120vAC outlet behind the Cougar fridge.
That's a future mod, bigger fish to fry right now.... this slide jerking issue is about to have me pulling my hair out.

[gearhead]

After I worked on the jerking slide I got myself a refreshing adult beverage and decided..it's still daylight, it's not raining, and I don't want to go in the house. So I took the lower vent cover off the fridge and looked around. Spotted the 120v outlet...way back there. No way I could even touch it much less plug a fan in it. Actually there was so much other stuff between me and the outlet that I couldn't tell if there was an open plug there.
Oh well.

[Tom N OH]

Gearhead, check your drain tube coming from the refrigerator, it should be sticking out through one of the holes in the lower vent cover. When we got our MHC 305RL last summer, the drain tube was stuffed up in behind the refrigerator with the end about 2' higher than the lowest point. Had the same issues with temp as you are, I pulled the drain tube down & about a cup of water poured out. Stuck the tube through the vent cover like it's supposed to be & cut about 2-3' of excess tube off, then put the bug filter back in the end of the tube. Eureka! Problems solved! Refrigerator got down to 34 on gas & electric both while sitting in full sun on a 90 deg day.

[gearhead]

^^^Funny you mention that. When I pulled the lower cover off I thought I would just let it hang from the drain hose. It did, for about 10 seconds. When I went to put the cover back on and fish the drain hose through the vent, the white bug screen wasn't in it. ARGH, it's somewhere in these white rocks I have on my parking spot. I looked and looked. Was already thinking about what I could cram in there to keep bugs out. Moved my foot and there it was.
My frustration level with the 5th was about maxxed out for today. Grabbed a Bud Lite and called it a day.

[JAbraham03]

Did you mount the fan near the lower inlet or the upper outlet? One of the little 4" electronic equipment fans? Plug in to 110volt so it runs whenever you're on campground power? I need to look around in there.

I think we looked "Red Neck" with the setup, wish I had a photo. I took a box fan and ran it direct from a 110 outlet and zip tied it to the upper vent cover to suck air out. Fridges in slides are a horrible design. They require heat to come down and out to get out even with the baffles installed the way they do. Basically it seems the 4 small fans they install (computer fans) just wont cut it. We generally have the most problems when there is a wind coming from the fridge side of the camper. We have the same issues in aircraft with A/C systems that use the "computer style" fans rather than a squirrel cage blower type. They cant push against air or build pressure. The fans that are installed also dont run non stop when the temp goes up on the fridge which would make one think the temp sensor isnt any good either.

Should have gotten a residential fridge :banghead:

[NotyetMHCowner]

I installed a switch just behind my lower cover that will allow the fans to run 24/7. It seems to help a lot, but when on electric, my fridge just doesn't cut it when temps are above 80. I don't know what the problem is. It consistently runs 33-34 degrees on gas.

[gearhead]

We hijacked the heck out of this fender skirt thread!
Could one of y'all give me a hint on where to tap for 12volt? I want to put a fan and switch behind the lower cover.

[chuckster57]

12VDC is available at the bottom of the refer where the control board is.

[JRTJH]

We hijacked the heck out of this fender skirt thread!
Could one of y'all give me a hint on where to tap for 12volt? I want to put a fan and switch behind the lower cover.

There should be a red and a white wire laying on the floor of the reefer compartment right at the lower vent. Those wires enter the lower "control box" of the refrigerator. One is ground (white) and one is +12VDC (red).

[NotyetMHCowner]

IIRC, I found the red wire going up to the temp switch on the upper coils and tapped into it for my toggle switch. I mounted the switch on the bottom left just behind the lower cover. Down is factory cooling, up is 24/7 cooling.

[gearhead]

thank ya, thank ya

[Dave W]

Older thread that just 'made my day'.

Oh well - fixed my misdirection :-}

[JAbraham03]

I installed a switch just behind my lower cover that will allow the fans to run 24/7. It seems to help a lot, but when on electric, my fridge just doesn't cut it when temps are above 80. I don't know what the problem is. It consistently runs 33-34 degrees on gas.

Mine will only stay down to temperature if I dont put anything in in. If I do it shoots up above 40 no matter how long it is left alone or setting. So basically have a fridge that you cant put anything in.

[Festus2]

JAbraham03 -
Sorry to re-hijack this thread, but could you give us an update on the fender skirts? Somehow, the thread topic morphed into "fridges". Oh well, at least they both begin with an "f".

[JAbraham03]

For the fenders I am going around and replacing all the #8 sheet metal screws with #10 machine screws and 10/32 jet nuts and a washer on the inside. Most of the #8's are stripped out and spinning and just being held in by side loads. This way I dont have to worry about them coming off. Basically I am going to rig it up with the same hardware as my plane. They keep things on at over 200MPH should be good for plastic fenders at 70.

[JAbraham03]

Just an update on the fridge, Dometic sent a new control board for the fridge. We will see how that goes.

[Campntwins]

Our Dometic RM1350 4 door has had issues on and off with varying temperatures. Every time it went in for service at the dealership, no problems would show.

Two weeks ago, it began not working at all on electric. Would get an EO error but would work on propane. Back into service. At first, they thought it was the mother board but it wasn't. They removed the underbelly to track wiring and found that there was no neutral. :banghead: Placed neutral and installed new mother board and it is working fine..today.

Additional mods we are installing this weekend while camping, in hopes of frig success:
1. Adding ARP unit.
2. Adding two fans to back of frig in slide area.
3. Adding an automatic frig fire extinguisher behind frig in slide area.

We'll see how it goes.

[Dave W]

Back to flopping fenders - a box each of #8 truss head 18-8 stainless steel machine screws, nuts and serrated lock washers from McMaster-Carr and a half hour of my time fixed all but three. Those three were under the HW heater and needed some #10 SS, 3/4" self tapping screws. I bought 3/4" machine screws but either 1/2 or 5/8 inch length will also work. I really don't care if they aren't Robertson drive or black. They will work just fine

As far as hanging out in the breeze - they sure do

Screws = http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3041/=12gtpmr

Nuts = http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3200/=12gtpww

Washers = http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3255/=12gtqe3

Reefers - our Norcold 1200 4 door works just fine (so far:D)

[gearhead]

Our Dometic RM1350 4 door has had issues on and off with varying temperatures. Every time it went in for service at the dealership, no problems would show.

Two weeks ago, it began not working at all on electric. Would get an EO error but would work on propane. Back into service. At first, they thought it was the mother board but it wasn't. They removed the underbelly to track wiring and found that there was no neutral. :banghead: Placed neutral and installed new mother board and it is working fine..today.

Additional mods we are installing this weekend while camping, in hopes of frig success:
1. Adding ARP unit.
2. Adding two fans to back of frig in slide area.
3. Adding an automatic frig fire extinguisher behind frig in slide area.

We'll see how it goes.

Please tell me more about an ARP unit and where you are adding fans. Heck tell us about the fire extinguisher too.

[denverpilot]

Please tell me more about an ARP unit and where you are adding fans. Heck tell us about the fire extinguisher too.



Google found...

ARP unit:
https://www.arprv.com

Fans and controls for them appear to be an option for the ARP:
https://www.arprv.com/rv-fridge-fan.php

RV fridge fire extinguisher:
http://rvcoolingunit.com/SS-30-Halon-Extinguisher-Straight-Auto-Deploy-P1872263.aspx

And an article about the fridge fire extinguishers:
http://www.jackdanmayer.com/Files/New%20Horizons%20Newsletters/Refrigerator%20Fire%20Safety.doc

[Dave W]

Are you adding the ARP unit yourself? I have one waiting for our Norcold 1200 but have been doing other things to the 5er along with the S&B spring maintenance. The ARP installation, owner's and troubleshooting 'manuals' are quite possibly the worst I have seen - and I've been doing complicated wiring for years.

[Campntwins]

Please tell me more about an ARP unit and where you are adding fans. Heck tell us about the fire extinguisher too.

Thanks Denverpilot for posting the links to info on the ARP and fire extinguishers.

We researched all the info we could find on the ARP system, viewed a youtube on it and then called Paul Unmack who invented the ARP system. He is very helpful and accessible. You will read pros, cons and teasing about the ARP. To us, it's an additional safety step.

We went with Fireade 2000 fire extinguishers in the RV and a larger Amerex fire extinguisher in the truck. After purchasing the Fireade 2000, I read that fire extinguishers with plastic tubing may have the tubing separate from the nozzle, due to rattling, so may replace. Our goal is suppress the fire enough to get out of the RV.

[Campntwins]

Are you adding the ARP unit yourself? I have one waiting for our Norcold 1200 but have been doing other things to the 5er along with the S&B spring maintenance. The ARP installation, owner's and troubleshooting 'manuals' are quite possibly the worst I have seen - and I've been doing complicated wiring for years.

We camp with an electrician who is helping us. We watched the ARP Youtube, read and reread the instructions, emailed Paul Unmack, the inventor who has responded to every email and has called to discuss. Hopefully, we can get it done. Will know on Saturday and will post next week.