Bearings

[Povo]

Not sure if has been addressed somewhere else. Bearings. I understand these are serviced based on time, not mileage. True? If so, how often?

[JRTJH]

The ALKO manual maintenance chart calls for inspection/repacking at 6 months/6000 miles.

The Dexter manual maintenance chart calls for inspection/cleaning and repacking (in normal service) at 12 months/12000 miles.

The way most of us "use" our trailers, during the spring/summer, the 6 month interval would usually be either "before camping season" or "at the end of camping season", so realistically, since the trailer is in storage for the "other inspection", it's usually done once a year, either at the beginning or at the end of the camping season.

Here's the Dexter reference site: http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/Service_Resources/Maintenance_Schedule.pdf

[Povo]

Wow! I thought is was something like every 24 months. I have very few miles on my 5ver as the past 2+ years since we purchaed it have been overrun with other obligations. Way less than 1000 miles. (Hoping to pick this up a notch soon.) Sounds like I need to get it done. Last thing I need is to finally get out & have my wheels sieze up. (Is that the risk?) If it makes any difference, we are in Central Oregon & it does get cold while in storage - often well below freezing.

[Povo]

Also, while I am not totally inept, I am not a mechanic. Should I just bring it to my RV shop (have not only the dealer but another great shop here in town) at the beginning the season and spend the money to have them go though it per this list? Or is that overkill? Better safe than sorry - but don't want to throw money down the proverbial drain either.

[chuckster57]

Axle service is something that you can do at home easily. If you have a "shop" do it, make sure they are familiar with servicing RV's. The axles are arced and if the shop doesn't know better they may try to jack the axles up from the center.

You need to replace the seals, and they are cheap and should be in stock at any RV dealership. Prices vary, so ask and get an itemized list of what is actually done. I have worked at three different dealerships and have seen three different interpretations of an axle service. If you decide you want to do this yourself, PM me and I will be happy to give you a step by step guide.

[bobbecky]

Another part of the bearing service is also inspecting the brakes while the drum is off. This may actually be more important to some. Its all still cheap insurance.

[Javi]

While I have the knowledge and experience to do pretty much any of the maintenance and repair on our trailer I am also old and fat with bad kneesso I don't do roofs, bearings or anything else that requires me to climb or crawl around on my knees.

To that end I take my trailer to a trusted independent TV service center and they check and caulk the roof and repack the wheel bearings and adjust the brakes.

Cost is nominal in the greater scheme of things.

[gearhead]

While I have the knowledge and experience to do pretty much any of the maintenance and repair on our trailer I am also old and fat with bad kneesso I don't do roofs, bearings or anything else that requires me to climb or crawl around on my knees.

To that end I take my trailer to a trusted independent TV service center and they check and caulk the roof and repack the wheel bearings and adjust the brakes.

Cost is nominal in the greater scheme of things.

After repacking mine last year, I feel the same way. I can do it, but don't want to, and it's just not fun anymore.

[rwmurphy15]

How do you handle it when you have the EZ lube axles. Do you still repack the bearings.

[chuckster57]

I always pull the wheels and drums, that's the only way to inspect the brakes.

[Javi]

How do you handle it when you have the EZ lube axles. Do you still repack the bearings.
I do have the EZ lube on my axles but don't use them. To me they are a feel good accessory that can cause more problems than they provide benefit. Pump a little too much grease into them and you can ruin your brake shoes.

[chuckster57]

I do have the EZ lube on my axles but don't use them. To me they are a feel good accessory that can cause more problems than they provide benefit. Pump a little too much grease into them and you can ruin your brake shoes.

Seen it plenty of times. Customer comes in complaining of poor braking, says " I lube the bearings on a regular basis using that zerk fitting".

[gearhead]

I'll opine again:
I pumped through the grease zerk on my Dexter axles when I bought the trailer, but very carefully. I lifted the wheel and spun it as I pumped. Two years later I pulled the hubs and the seals were still intact. That said the EZ Lube feature is an invitation to trouble.
My opinion, after 40 years of dealing with rotating equipment, is that if the bearings are properly sized and the bearing itself is of decent manufacture, the bearings should go 5-7 years and 50,000 miles without maintenance.
By recommending annual inspections I believe the axle manufacturers realize that the RV manufacturers are sizing axles too low, the end users are likely overloading them, and the bearings themselves are not of the highest quality. And they are in a CYA mode regarding warranty.

[mfifield01]

Coming from boat trailers, I have concern about bearings. I tended to have problems with bearings at the 3 year mark, but water is basically pushed through the bearings on a regular basis.

I'm not as worried about a travel trailer, but I plan to re-pack at 2 years. During the PDI I asked about bearing maintenance. They said every year if you put a lot of miles. If not, every 2 years.

[JRTJH]

I think gearhead is "spot on" with his response. Like him, I've used the EZ Lube feature for years without having problems. I've defended them in numerous posts here and in conversations with other trailer owners. Through the years, I've never had any problems with grease leaking through the seals.

Then, along came 2015, and all that changed. Not only did I have "a" leaking seal, but all 4 seals on the Cougar had leaked and contaminated the brake lining, magnet and brake drum on every wheel. Until this experience, I had always supported the EZ Lube system, but after having to replace magnets and linings ($200 in parts plus 2 days of my time and a trip to a parts supplier about 100 miles away to get "what wasn't available locally") I've changed my mind.

I used to support using the EZ Lube system, not any more !!! I'll take my wheel hubs apart, clean and replace the grease (repack the bearings by hand) and install new seals from now on. Chances are it won't be every year (depending on how far we tow) but there won't be another grease gun attached to an axle spindle on my Cougar, ever again !!!

Here's another discussion: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23879&highlight=grease

[concours]

I service ours every year mainly due to the fact that we travel south for the winter and want to prevent problems during the trip, but I want to point out that our trailer is now 3 years old and on the 1st service I found a shoe delaminating, Last year I found a broken actuator block and an outer bearing that was beginning to fail (probably due to having very little grease from the manufacture). Yes I do believe that we are the subjects of undersized axles and very poor quality bearings when you put the 2 together its a recipe for disaster. Will I service our brakes and bearings annually? most certainly.

[schwalbach]

Here is a thought---Many cars have non-driven axles with bearings and go 200,000, without anyone touching them...

Wonder what the difference is, quality of bearing? They don't have ez-lube, pickups get abused, how may miles before you lube them?

[JRTJH]

Here is a thought---Many cars have non-driven axles with bearings and go 200,000, without anyone touching them...

Wonder what the difference is, quality of bearing? They don't have ez-lube, pickups get abused, how may miles before you lube them?

The bearings you speak of are "high tech" sealed bearings. They are designed not to require maintenance for an extended time. Not so with "open bearings" found in travel trailers. They are the "old school technology" found in the late 1940's and early 1950's vehicles. If you're "lucky enough" (or unlucky enough, depending on your point of view) you will remember sitting on a Pepsi case, in the shade, pulling hubs, cleaning bearings, replacing brake shoes and wheel cylinders. That was an "every year event", much like the same technology on today's RV.

Installing "improved bearings" is another one of those things "we wish for" but, as a collective group, don't want to pay for and the manufacturers won't "give them" to us because of their profit margins, along with the long list of other "wish for's" that we'll probably never see on travel trailers in the "low/medium" price range......

[gearhead]

Looking at the Dexter website, it looks like they acquired North American AL-KO. They had already acquired UFP, which makes the best solution to towed vehicle bearings. I have their Vault hubs on my bay boat and love them so far. They're going on about all new boat trailers around here. Wish RV manufacturers would use them.
http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/VAULT%20Brochure.pdf

An additional quip: I carry a infra red/laser temp gun and shoot all my tires at every stop. Also shoot through the wheel spokes to the drum checking for a hot bearing or brake issue.

[tgpilot]

You must live over about Bend or there about. I live near Roseburg and use a shop in Roseburg that if I recall, charges about $160.00 to do four wheels on an RV. They do all the work and guarantee their work. Good shop.

[SAABDOCTOR]

THE Easy lube is a great cheat and that is what it is. a cheat. good for a quick shot of lube. As Chuckster and others have said nothing beats taking the drum off so you can inspect the brakes and clean and inspect the bearings before repacking them. If you have never done it before ask for help. Do not just sock down the center nut!

[Stanomatic]

Thank goodness for this forum thread. Not realizing at all that I had to do that maintenance on a 2015 Fuzion 371 with 5500 miles, I was told by Windish RV that I should have them done before my trek up to Alaska. They quoted me $450. I had heart failure and denial. I thought the same thing, grab a grease gun and fill up.

I called another trailer shop which specializes in the trailers you haul stuff in and not RV type and they quoted me $250. I saw on another post in this thread to do the work for $160 for four wheels. Maybe I will shop around a bit.
Anyway, I will get this done and great thread.

Stan

[Povo]

So, as I am not a mechanic (and not really interested in becoming one), what I need to do is maintain a good maintenance schedule along with a basic knowledge of the rig. In this case, every one to two years have the bearings repacked and brakes inspected. Sound right?

[chuckster57]

So, as I am not a mechanic (and not really interested in becoming one), what I need to do is maintain a good maintenance schedule along with a basic knowledge of the rig. In this case, every one to two years have the bearings repacked and brakes inspected. Sound right?


I would have them checked once a year. Your choice start or end of season, but End of season means one less thing to get ready for the next one.

[slow]

What is recommended for cleaning bearings prior to manually repacking with grease?

Google turns up conflicting recommendations and Dexter provides no information on cleaning or cleaners.

[chuckster57]

I use Simple Green diluted in water. Warm solution works real good. Once clean you can spray "rinse" with brake cleaner to clean any moisture out.

[jtyphoid]

Anything that will clean greasy parts should work. Chuckster57 has a good suggestion to do a final rinse with a fast evaporating solvent like brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, or similar.

[slow]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I assume you are referring to chlorinated brake cleaner.

[chuckster57]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I assume you are referring to chlorinated brake cleaner.


Yeah. But out here we can only get non chlorinated.

[gearhead]

I like to use diesel. If using aerosol brake cleaner it can leave condensation on the bearings because the brake cleaner is cold. Dry with paper towels and set in the sun.
Anyone else see the letter to Trailer Life this month about greasing bearings annually? Page 109.

[outwest]

My father used to use diesel as well (he also sometimes used gasoline, but that was back in the days before unleaded. Worth mentioning - gasoline is way more dangerous than diesel because the vapors are highly flammable and don't readily dissipate)

Just had my shade tree mechanic guy do my bearings yesterday and he merely wiped with paper towels, then sprayed with aerosol brake cleaner.

[dcg9381]

diesel here... Removes the grease and as a light oil, no issues using it on a metal surface.

[slow]

FYI: I gave Dexter service and warranty a call this morning and spoke with a very helpful and pleasant gentleman call Glenn.

His recommendations (when not using the same grease that was already used in the bearings or if the grease is contaminated/dirty) were:

* take the time to wipe down the bearings very well with lint free shop rags
* use brake cleaner to get the balance of the grease off the bearing and between the rollers
* let the bearings dry fully before packing with new grease
* do not let the bearing spin when drying with compressed air
* clean the hub cavity and races the same way
* pack the bearings with Dexter approved grease listed in the manual
* install a new seal using a flat block, not a hammer directly on the seal

Before reinstalling the hub/bearings
*inject the new grease through the spindle grease fitting to drive out the old grease from the spindle if EZ-lube is installed
* check the brake shoes for wear and replace if necessary
* after releasing the two brake springs, use aluminum based anti-seize lubricant sparingly behind the magnet and lever support points and generously at the pivot point, but avoid getting anti-seize on the brake pads
* run the star nut to expose the threads and apply anti-seize on the threads, then run the star nut back over the anti-seize

After reinstalling the hub, installing the outer bearing and doing the preload procedure per the Dexter manual, adjust the manual brakes as follows:
* turn star nut until the wheel locks and the star nut no longer turns easily
* turn the star nut the opposite direction 5 to 7 "clicks" (pick 5, 6 or 7 clicks)
* adjust the other wheel the same way and use the exact same number of clicks as the first brake that was adjusted (5, 6 or 7 clicks) since trying to detect "drag" is inconsistent

If using the same grease as previously installed, a shop rag wipe down to allow inspection of bearings, WITHOUT final clean with brake cleaner is all that is required unless the grease is contaminated. If contaminated, do the full cleaning procedure using brake cleaner.

The phone number to Dexter is 574-295-7888 and ask for Glenn.

[dcg9381]

I'd like Glenn to work on my axles!

[slow]

I'd like Glenn to work on my axles!

He mentioned that he wrenched for over 30 years and that he was sharing what he does and taught his son. Glenn is the kind of guy you wish was your neighbor. One of the best company representatives I have dealt with.

[JRTJH]

Slow,

Great explanation from Dexter. Thanks for posting !!!

I've always adjusted my brakes by turning the wheel while adjusting the star-nut until the WHEEL locked, then backing it off "just until the wheel turns freely".... I've never considered turning the star-nut until IT locked, then backing it off a specific number of clicks (5-7). Thinking about it, as long as the brake shoes/brake drum are properly seated, that would be much simpler and easier to do since it can be done without jacking the wheel off the ground. This spring, when I adjust the brakes (I packed the bearings in the fall but didn't get the brakes adjusted) I'm going to try that method. I'll post how it works once I get a chance to tow.

Again, thanks for posting !!!

[slow]

...............I've always adjusted my brakes by turning the wheel while adjusting the star-nut until the WHEEL locked, then backing it off "just until the wheel turns freely".... I've never considered turning the star-nut until IT locked, then backing it off a specific number of clicks (5-7). Thinking about it, as long as the brake shoes/brake drum are properly seated, that would be much simpler and easier to do since it can be done without jacking the wheel off the ground. This spring, when I adjust the brakes (I packed the bearings in the fall but didn't get the brakes adjusted) I'm going to try that method. I'll post how it works once I get a chance to tow.
................

Good point about not having to elevate wheels to adjust the brakes using that procedure. I did not think of that. But out of habit and peace of mind, I plan to still have the wheel off the ground and spin it to confirm it is free to rotate after adjusting the brakes since they will be elevated for the bearing packing anyways. If nothing else, it would confirm what number of clicks to use going forward without lifting wheels.

[outwest]

Thanks for that info, Slow, appreciate it!

[SkiSmuggs]

I'll opine again:
I pumped through the grease zerk on my Dexter axles when I bought the trailer, but very carefully. I lifted the wheel and spun it as I pumped. Two years later I pulled the hubs and the seals were still intact. That said the EZ Lube feature is an invitation to trouble.
My opinion, after 40 years of dealing with rotating equipment, is that if the bearings are properly sized and the bearing itself is of decent manufacture, the bearings should go 5-7 years and 50,000 miles without maintenance.
By recommending annual inspections I believe the axle manufacturers realize that the RV manufacturers are sizing axles too low, the end users are likely overloading them, and the bearings themselves are not of the highest quality. And they are in a CYA mode regarding warranty.
I think this is a good explanation. My idea of annual bearing maintenance is to raise the wheel and check for play. Too much play and the grease doesn't matter that much anyway. I've had one bearing failure and that was with a new truck, RV suspension "upgrade" that lowered the RV and I was way nose high which overloaded the rear axle. Had I done my daily maintenance of checking the hubs for heat when I arrived at the campground, I would have not had the failure. I think the daily maintenance is more important. Re-packing and brake inspection are more dependent on mileage rather than time. Low mileage; every 5 years. High mileage, every year or two.
I had the pin box replaced with MorRyde and raised to the highest position and their CRE3000 equalizers which raised the fiver to level. And at 4, years and over 20,000 miles had the bearings pack and brakes inspected.

[SkiSmuggs]

I read the good Dexter post and replies to it on brake adjustment. It said to "turn star nut until the wheel locks and the star nut no longer turns easily." It sounded to me like some interpreted that as until the nut locks, but I see it as until the wheel locks. That requires the wheel be elevated for spinning. Am I wrong?

[slow]

I ordered new Timken bearings with the thought that if I am cleaning out the old grease and repacking with new, I may as well replace the China with NA bearings.

Best price in Canada seems to be from The Wrench Monkey.

When searching in the Timken's website, I came across a few documents and a video I thought others may find interesting:

http://www.dtcomponents.com/files/vol1iss3_wheel_bearing_replacement_english.pdf

http://www.dtcomponents.com/files/vol2iss3_packing_tapered_roller_bearing_with_greas e_english.pdf

https://youtu.be/0RqlrnoiqnY

[slow]

..............It sounded to me like some interpreted that as until the nut locks, but I see it as until the wheel locks. .....................

I spent the afternoon replacing the factory bearings with Timkins, then servicing and adjusting the brakes as per Glenn's (Dexter) recommendations. It turns out that when the wheel is locked, the star adjustment nut is also locked. So they are one in the same. Backing off 5 clicks seemed about right.

I lifted one wheel at at time. It took 2 hours to do the first one, then about 75 minutes for the other three. It consisted of: jacking, pulling off the wheel, pulling the hub, removing the rear seal, hammering out the bearing cones from the hub, cleaning the hub, dismantling, inspecting and cleaning the brake components, applying anti-seize to the contact points and pivot for the brakes, reassembling the brakes, installing the new bearing cones in the hub, packing the new bearings, install the bearings and new rear seal, purging out the old grease in the spindle, reinstalling the hub, setting the wheel bearing axial play as per the Timken instructions a few posts above and then adjusting the brakes. I used two cans of brake cleaner and almost a full cartridge of grease for the tandem set up.

With approximately 15,000 miles on the China bearings, they all looked good, but were tossed in the garbage. No grease made it past the rear seal, but it looked like the bearings had been greased using the grease fittings either at the factory or the dealer. Also the grease on a couple of the inner bearings next to the seal was very dark in color (almost black) vs the red color in the hub. I suspect I had minor water contamination.

I also re-torqued the axle to spring u-bolts. Some were less than 30 ft-lbs, so I took them all up to 60 ft-lbs.

The MorRyde wet bolt kit is my next project.

[mfifield01]

The MorRyde wet bolt kit is my next project.
Is the wet bolt kit common on lighter trailers? Most posts about the wet bolt kit reference fifth wheels.

[Lee]

Is the wet bolt kit common on lighter trailers? Most posts about the wet bolt kit reference fifth wheels.

Yes,.... well mine at least. My TT is not large by any stretch but after seeing pictures of suspension failures with the thin cheap factory components I "wet bolted" mine.

[gearhead]

Is the wet bolt kit common on lighter trailers? Most posts about the wet bolt kit reference fifth wheels.
Common as in standard equipment from the factory? I would guess no, except on higher end expensive models.
Common as in available from aftermarket suppliers, and installed by the owner or their shop of choice? Yes.

[mfifield01]

Most people upgrading to wet bolts seem to have fifth wheels. This is the first reference to a lighter trailer.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[slow]

Most people upgrading to wet bolts seem to have fifth wheels. This is the first reference to a lighter trailer.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I wish the factory installed nylon bushings were adequate for a "light" trailer like our 23RB, but that is not what I found yesterday when I did the wet bolt kit install:

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3934

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=756&pictureid=3933

I posted more details of my wet bolt kit install here: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24991&highlight=bolt

[mosquitoman]

I found the same ware on a two axle flat bed trailer that only carries a Kubota RTV that weighs 2000lbs. I will be putting a wet bolt kit on my new TT.

[jsmith948]

I ordered new Timken bearings with the thought that if I am cleaning out the old grease and repacking with new, I may as well replace the China with NA bearings.

Best price in Canada seems to be from The Wrench Monkey.

I was thinking about replacing our OE wheel bearings/races with Timken bearings. Our local distributor for Timken is Motion Industries. While perusing their website, I read that the Timken tapered roller bearing country of origin is China. Other than an established brand with a very good reputation, what would we gain by replacing one Chinese bearing with another? I'm all for going to a better bearing, but I'm thinking China is China. The price difference is substantial. I didn't price the exact bearing for our trailer, but, across the board, the Timken bearings were 3 to 4 times as expensive as the bearings available from Redneck Trailer.

Added on edit: I'm afraid my post reads as a bit argumentative and it is not meant to be. I am simply wondering if the Chinese made Timkens are as good as they were when they were made here.

[slow]

I was thinking about replacing our OE wheel bearings/races with Timken bearings. Our local distributor for Timken is Motion Industries. While perusing their website, I read that the Timken tapered roller bearing country of origin is China. Other than an established brand with a very good reputation, what would we gain by replacing one Chinese bearing with another? I'm all for going to a better bearing, but I'm thinking China is China. The price difference is substantial. I didn't price the exact bearing for our trailer, but, across the board, the Timken bearings were 3 to 4 times as expensive as the bearings available from Redneck Trailer.

Added on edit: I'm afraid my post reads as a bit argumentative and it is not meant to be. I am simply wondering if the Chinese made Timkens are as good as they were when they were made here.

My observations when comparing the factory installed bearings and the Timkens that replaced them:

My factory installed bearing races were labelled with "CHINA", where as my Timken bearings races are all labelled with "USA".

As I stated in a previous post, my inspection of the factory installed bearings suggested they were performing well and had no durability issues. Therefore I cannot complain or bash the factory installed bearings in any way.

My five sets (one for a spare set) of Timkens were $135 CDN (or ~$100 US). I considered the price reasonable for peace of mind and cheaper than my time it would have taken or the amount of brake cleaner to flush out the old bearing's grease.

[jsmith948]

Thanks
for the response. I'll look for a different supplier. Motion Industries prices are WAY out of line with what you paid

[gearhead]

I have found them on Amazon, but they are Chinese Timkens. Seems like a few years ago I found USA Timkens on Amazon.