No gas flow to oven? Stovetop works. Ideas?

[Nuckledragger]

We have a passport 2650. We have gas flow to the stovetop but the oven does not have any gas flowing to it. We have used it numerous times but this issue just started. There isn't any gas flowing to light the pilot. Any ideas?

[Harleyhop]

If your oven has a thermocouple I think I would start with replacing that. Normally when they go bad that won't allow any gas to lite pilot.
Good luck.

[chuckster57]

Thermocoupler will shut the gas off if there isn't a flame, but you should still have gas flow if you hold the knob "in".

OP: are you positive you have the temp knob in the correct position and depressed to light the pilot?

[Nuckledragger]

Thermocoupler will shut the gas off if there isn't a flame, but you should still have gas flow if you hold the knob "in".

OP: are you positive you have the temp knob in the correct position and depressed to light the pilot?

Yes, positive we are doing that correctly.

[JRTJH]

Yes, positive we are doing that correctly.

You can download the Atwood Range Service Manual here: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/dealer-manuals/RangeManual.pdf

First of all, have you recently changed propane bottles or connected/disconnected the propane system? If there is any "air in the lines" you will not get proper operation of gas appliances until the air is completely purged from the lines. Light a stovetop burner, let it burn for several minutes, light the refrigerator, let it operate on gas for a bit, light the furnace, let it cycle once or twice and light the water heater, let it fire up for a few minutes. That should remove all the air from your propane system. You may need to do this every time you change propane bottles and/or open the system for maintenance or after extended storage.

My thoughts are, if you're following the correct lighting sequence, then it may be the thermocouple either not "in the flame" or not working. If, when you push the oven temp knob in to light the pilot, there is a flame at the pilot, the thermostat is probably working OK. If there is no flame when holding the knob in (when in the pilot position), then there is no gas flowing and either you have a gas obstruction in the oven thermostat or the thermostat is faulty.

If there is a pilot flame while holding in the oven knob, the thermocouple should "heat up" and hold the thermostat pilot gas circuit "open". If the pilot lights and then goes out when you release the oven knob (after the delay), the thermocouple is either "not in the flame" or is faulty.

You can get a new thermocouple at any RV parts department and other than being a "time consuming changeout" it's not particularly difficult. Just pay attention to what you're doing and watch for sharp edges on the stove components !!!!!

You can "try" to confirm that the thermocouple is bad by using a propane "extended flame BBQ lighter". Use a flashlight, possibly a mirror to help you see, and hold the lighter flame under the thermocouple while trying to light the oven. If it is working, the pilot will ignite, if it's not working and the pilot goes out when you release the knob, it's probably bad.

One online source for parts lists the thermocouple (57274) for $10.89 and the thermostat (57294) for $85.69. I'd try the thermocouple if you have the sequences listed above. Good Luck.

ADDED: Please confirm part numbers with your specific range model. The part numbers above may or may not be correct for your specific range !!!

[Nuckledragger]

Thanks JRTJH for the detailed response. I can't get a flame at the pilot so I will try to purge the lines. If that doesn't work it looks like I have a bad thermostat.

[JRTJH]

There is a small magnet in the thermostat pilot circuit that is held open by the thermocouple. Sometimes that magnet gets a bit of corrosion or dirt on it and won't slide up and down in the cavity. If it's stuck closed, you might try removing the thermostat, hitting it on the palm of your hand a couple of times and then trying it again. There isn't (as best I can recall) any way for grease or cooking residue to get into the pilot circuit, but just a bit of dirt in one of the gas lines could easily work its way to that point and cause your problems. It would be a "gallant effort" but probably worth trying before spending nearly $100 for a new thermostat. Good Luck and let us know how things turn out.

[PerryB]

There is a small magnet in the thermostat pilot circuit that is held open by the thermocouple. Sometimes that magnet gets a bit of corrosion or dirt on it and won't slide up and down in the cavity. If it's stuck closed, you might try removing the thermostat, hitting it on the palm of your hand a couple of times and then trying it again. There isn't (as best I can recall) any way for grease or cooking residue to get into the pilot circuit, but just a bit of dirt in one of the gas lines could easily work its way to that point and cause your problems. It would be a "gallant effort" but probably worth trying before spending nearly $100 for a new thermostat. Good Luck and let us know how things turn out.

Thank you John for validating something I have said for years. If something doesn't work, smack it ! Its how a man fixes things! :rofl:

One of my favorite old sayings is: If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it was obviously defective and needed to be replaced anyway.

[JRTJH]

Way back when I was a "young pup" we had a mule named Sally. She would pull a plow (FOR MY DAD) all day long in the hot sun with very little "gee/haw" needed. She was a lot smarter than I was when it came to how to walk the rows of butterbeans on Saturday morning. Anyway, with me behind the plow, Sally would get an urge to keep walking toward the barn when headed in that direction and it would take "all I could muster" to get her turned around. My dad, watching from under the magnolia tree, sitting on his stool, drinking coffee would often yell, "Boy, get her attention!" I'd keep fighting her every time she could see the barn. He finally walked over, slapped her harder than I ever saw him hit anything and told her, "WORK, MULE!" She snorted and turned without problems for several rows. Then, she headed toward the barn. I said, "WHOA" and walked around the plow to her, slapped her (not nearly as hard as my dad) and she plowed the rest of the morning and never headed toward the barn. I finally had her attention. I learned that morning that if something won't work, slap it hard, if it still won't work, get a "convincer" (big stick or hammer). And, like you, if it won't work after the hammer, it needed to be replaced anyway...... :)

In the Air Force, when we still were wearing brown shoes, "brogans" were the "boot of choice" for flightline work. If one of the "birds" was busted, a strategically placed brogan would fix it almost as often as spending hours replacing parts until we found the bad one....

So, between hammers and brogans, usually some "gentle persuasion" strategically applied will fix many problems.... If that doesn't work, duct tape and bailing wire will hold things together until you can find a replacement......

AHHHHH Those were the days... With today's "aerospace vehicles" brogan maintenance is a thing of the past, but it still works for many things that stop working around an RV :)

[trucker LOU]

" If you can't fix it with a hammer you have an electrical problem "

[dfb]

If the stove is in the SLIDE out, check to be sure the gas line is not getting pinched...

[chuckster57]

If the stove is in the SLIDE out, check to be sure the gas line is not getting pinched...


Knowing the burners work (by the title of the thread) rules out a pinched LP line.