Over GVWR on Ram 1500 - Safety Issue?

[AussieCanadian]

So firstly, let me be the first to admit my own mistake of not checking the facts (weight ratings) thoroughly enough. Hard lesson to learn. :(

We have just purchased a brand new (Aug '15 build date) Ram 1500 Sport Crew Cab 4x4 (5.7L Hemi, 8 Spd, 3.92s rear end). We were at the end of our F150 lease, so was in the market for a new truck anyway, and settled on this one. It will serve as our tow vehicle every weekend in spring/summer/fall (towing around 300km per trip), towing our 25' Passport 2400 TT, as well as my daily driver.

So, why the mistake? One word - PAYLOAD. This truck, as configured in Sport trim has a door sticker payload of only 1,328lbs, and a GVWR of 6,900lbs. Below is what I have worked out with the weights since purchasing, and as you can see, I am going to be OVER the GVWR of the Ram by 220lbs. GCW looks ok, but it's GVW that concerns me, and the overall stress on the truck, suspension, brakes and most of all how SAFE it will tow?

Loaded Truck Weight: 6,450lbs (all in)
Loaded Hitch Weight: 670lbs (again, all in propane and 2 batteries)
TOTAL GVW: 7,120lbs (220lbs over rated capacity).

Trailer Weight (again, fully loaded): 5,920lbs
TOTAL GCW: 13,220lbs (note, this is actually UNDER rated capacity by 2,000lbs).

I am seriously considering trading up to a 2500, but before I do that, I wanted to source some other opinions on whether being over GVWR alone is something which should warrant trading up, which is going to cost me around $10k. Some questions I am pondering:

1) Is being 220lbs over GVWR really a big concern from a safety perspective, given i'm still well within the overall GCWR?

2) How good are the brakes on a Ram 1500 vs a 2500? "emergency stop" is a scenario that's been on my mind.

3) I've seen Ram 1500's towing much bigger TT's than ours so I can't be the only half ton driver who is towing over GVWR?

Thoughts anyone? Would appreciate all opinions. Thank you. PS - if anyone is in the market for a brand new loaded 1500 sport crew in Canada (AB) please let me know!! :D

[sourdough]

Well.....This topic has been discussed many, many times on this forum and others and responses are all over the place.

I've been where you are and I bought a new truck while others wouldn't. Will it pull it? Sure. Is it safe? Probably not. Last year I was passed by a 3/4ton Ford F250 driving 80 mph in the rain pulling a triple axle 5th wheel (probably in excess of 40') with the bed of his truck about to scrape the pavement. He could do it, he was GREATLY overloaded and probably thought he was safe?....but.....

To me the weight ratings are in different categories for a reason. You need to meet them all to be truly safe. Only 220 over on GVW probably isn't the end of the world; unless you're in an accident and you're checked; then you may have legal issues - or someone, maybe your own family, is injured.

The achilles heel of a Ram 1/2 ton is payload. Having driven mine (1/2 ton - along with many others in the long past) over payload I can tell you that it does affect the handling/stopping etc. Some will tell you to put airbags on (I did) but they don't do a thing for your ability to increase loads. The question is one for you to answer; to keep you, your family and others on the road as safe as you can or to "fudge" and hope for the best. I thought I would be OK. Mentally it drove me crazy because I couldn't stop thinking about hurting my wife, puppy or some innocent someone due to my own negligence.

3/4 ton vs 1/2 stopping power. The 3/4 has bigger brakes which work better plus an additional factor as far as pulling your trailer...size. My 1/2 (and I suspect yours) weighed about 5300lbs, the 3/4 is about 7000lbs (both unloaded). The trailer can't manhandle the 3/4 like it did the 1/2. You can also look at the suspension - no comparison. Downside - the 3/4 rides like a truck vs a car ride in the 1/2.

You've made the mistake many folks make. In my case I knew what I was doing but thought I could handle it (mentally). As much as I intended to pull the trailer I ultimately couldn't justify taking the risk.

My suggestion: get the 3/4 and fork over the 10k (I did). You will sleep better and feel better after a long drive. Some will suggest just going on up to a one ton since it's only about $500 or so. That might be something you want to think about but I'd go 3/4 at least for safety's sake.

Let the comments begin............:)

[nesparky]

3/4 ton rams have coils in the rear just like your 1/2 ton, ride is better but still stiffer than the little truck. Lol. Stock gears on the 2500 and 3500 srw are 3.42 so fuel milage is pretty good for a truck that size.
3500's are still leaf springs, but you can get optional air ride on it.
You can also get the factory 5th wheel setup in the heavy duty trucks. Look at the Cummins, well worth the money.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160105/3b3a8ce964f339a65ef3f3cb68ef42a4.jpg

[cw3jason]

Is your loaded truck weight with trailer attached? If it is, you do not need to add the trailer tounge weight again. It's hard for me to grasp with only a 670lbs tounge weight you could be over on your payload of 1328 when truck is loaded. How much stuff are you carrying in the bed of the truck? Transfer some of that to the trailer if you can. Seems you have plenty of weight to spare there.

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[gtsum2]

I had a 2013 ram 1500 Laramie loaded and door sticker was 1061!!! It crushed me when I was looking at similar sized trailers. The ram 1500 with rear coil springs has a very soft ride and is not the best match for a moderate sized trailer. One time I had a mid sized quad in the bed and towed a trailer with 2 full sized quads and here adults in the truck to the mountains of west va....I didn't like how the truck handled at all....I ended up selling mine after one year and ordered a 3500 cummins to alleviate my concerns (and promptly bought a toy hauler that is pushing the max limits..haha)

I think you can do it, but I doubt it would be real enjoyable towing that weight. A 3/4 ton is going to be much more stable and capable


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[Hoojs12840]

220lbs isn't going to make it less safe. If tow vehicles where that fragile you would see and find articles and lawsuits all day long. If theirs a 100 campers in a campground 50-60% are exceeding something. Never seen one stopped at a weight station or pulled over for it.

Would a 2500 or 3500 tow nicer? Sure Diesel? Even better. Safer? Not factually accurate. "Feeling" safer and being safer are two completely different things. One could argue over confidence causes it's fair share of accidents.

If you tow occasionally but drive it by itself regularly get the 1/2 ton. You are not endangering anyone.





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2013 GMC Sierra 2500 CC 4WD
2016 Jayco Northpoint 377RLBH

[AussieCanadian]

Is your loaded truck weight with trailer attached? If it is, you do not need to add the trailer tounge weight again. It's hard for me to grasp with only a 670lbs tounge weight you could be over on your payload of 1328 when truck is loaded. How much stuff are you carrying in the bed of the truck? Transfer some of that to the trailer if you can. Seems you have plenty of weight to spare there.

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Hi cw3jason - So the way I calculated it was, "loaded truck weight" which is without the tongue weight of the trailer, but includes a full tank of fuel, 4 members of our family (with kids car seats in) + gear in the bed. In other words, all I need to do then is add WD hitch weight + trailer tongue weight (which is 670lbs combined).

[AussieCanadian]

3/4 ton rams have coils in the rear just like your 1/2 ton, ride is better but still stiffer than the little truck. Lol. Stock gears on the 2500 and 3500 srw are 3.42 so fuel milage is pretty good for a truck that size.
3500's are still leaf springs, but you can get optional air ride on it.
You can also get the factory 5th wheel setup in the heavy duty trucks. Look at the Cummins, well worth the money.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160105/3b3a8ce964f339a65ef3f3cb68ef42a4.jpg

That's a really nice looking 2500! I'm actually looking at the same truck, but a short bed, with the black appearance package also.

[AussieCanadian]

Well.....This topic has been discussed many, many times on this forum and others and responses are all over the place.

I've been where you are and I bought a new truck while others wouldn't. Will it pull it? Sure. Is it safe? Probably not. Last year I was passed by a 3/4ton Ford F250 driving 80 mph in the rain pulling a triple axle 5th wheel (probably in excess of 40') with the bed of his truck about to scrape the pavement. He could do it, he was GREATLY overloaded and probably thought he was safe?....but.....

To me the weight ratings are in different categories for a reason. You need to meet them all to be truly safe. Only 220 over on GVW probably isn't the end of the world; unless you're in an accident and you're checked; then you may have legal issues - or someone, maybe your own family, is injured.

The achilles heel of a Ram 1/2 ton is payload. Having driven mine (1/2 ton - along with many others in the long past) over payload I can tell you that it does affect the handling/stopping etc. Some will tell you to put airbags on (I did) but they don't do a thing for your ability to increase loads. The question is one for you to answer; to keep you, your family and others on the road as safe as you can or to "fudge" and hope for the best. I thought I would be OK. Mentally it drove me crazy because I couldn't stop thinking about hurting my wife, puppy or some innocent someone due to my own negligence.

3/4 ton vs 1/2 stopping power. The 3/4 has bigger brakes which work better plus an additional factor as far as pulling your trailer...size. My 1/2 (and I suspect yours) weighed about 5300lbs, the 3/4 is about 7000lbs (both unloaded). The trailer can't manhandle the 3/4 like it did the 1/2. You can also look at the suspension - no comparison. Downside - the 3/4 rides like a truck vs a car ride in the 1/2.

You've made the mistake many folks make. In my case I knew what I was doing but thought I could handle it (mentally). As much as I intended to pull the trailer I ultimately couldn't justify taking the risk.

My suggestion: get the 3/4 and fork over the 10k (I did). You will sleep better and feel better after a long drive. Some will suggest just going on up to a one ton since it's only about $500 or so. That might be something you want to think about but I'd go 3/4 at least for safety's sake.

Let the comments begin............:)

Some fantastic advice here thank you - I think you sold me! I still have to run all the numbers and run around to a few dealers. I'm factoring $10k, but to hit that number I maybe looking at a used truck as opposed to new again.

[AussieCanadian]

Thanks for all the responses.

@ Hoojs12840 - you make a very good point. I have noted a few occasions where i've seen larger trucks towing smaller trailers, but at 65-70mph (120km/h and more), and I can't help but wonder why the hurry?

I'm definitely from the school of thought where I think no matter what, "driving safe" (EG lowering overall speed,allowing bigger braking margins etc) should always be employed when towing, regardless of how much truck I have for my load.

I'm probably leaning toward upgrading to 3/4 ton at this stage, but it will be a tough decision. I love my 1500 as a daily driver, and i'll have to give up plenty of the luxury options - even then, it's going to cost the full $10k with ease (will lose plenty of $$ by trading - only had the 1/2 ton for 2 months!).

[theeyres]

220lbs isn't going to make it less safe. If tow vehicles where that fragile you would see and find articles and lawsuits all day long. If theirs a 100 campers in a campground 50-60% are exceeding something. Never seen one stopped at a weight station or pulled over for it.

Would a 2500 or 3500 tow nicer? Sure Diesel? Even better. Safer? Not factually accurate. "Feeling" safer and being safer are two completely different things. One could argue over confidence causes it's fair share of accidents.

If you tow occasionally but drive it by itself regularly get the 1/2 ton. You are not endangering anyone.





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2013 GMC Sierra 2500 CC 4WD
2016 Jayco Northpoint 377RLBH

x2 If it were me, I'd keep it and give it a try. I don't think it's going to be a problem--but it's not me driving it or worrying about it. Sounds like you are over thinking it. But few will probably agree with me.

[CaptnJohn]

Really ~ no REALLY loved my 1/2 ton Ram trucks with the Hemi. They ride so nice and a 4X4 with the Big Horn package is still reasonably priced. My last truck was a 2015 F150 4X4. After only 2 months my wife decides we need to start camping again. I was not overjoyed as what was available to fit the truck and settled on a fantastic 2016 Wilderness TT. Truck and TT worked great together and wifey is happy BUT I can see she is serious about this endeavor. So, I trade a 4 month old TT in on a 5er and a 6 month old truck in on a F250. All that ~~ if my numbers were as close as yours I'd certainly be comfortable towing with it IF I felt the handling was up to par. I'd set the controller gain up a notch and see how it feels. That is me, not suggesting you should do the same. If it were a Ford or Chevy that soft ride would not be there and driving is the only way as the Ram ~~ is mushy with a load not sure how it would be with a trailer but that is not based on the numbers,,, just it's nature.

[old timer]

These days trucks seem to have softer springs and when you load the back of the truck they squat alot. It may push down so hard as to remove the weight from the front wheels making it hard to drive. The reason for the air bags is to push the back of the truck up which transfers the weight back to the front wheels. it also transfers weight back to the trailer. They don't add to the payload. They do however make the ride much better when the truck is empty as well.

[larry337]

These days trucks seem to have softer springs and when you load the back of the truck they squat alot. It may push down so hard as to remove the weight from the front wheels making it hard to drive. The reason for the air bags is to push the back of the truck up which transfers the weight back to the front wheels. it also transfers weight back to the trailer. They don't add to the payload. They do however make the ride much better when the truck is empty as well.

I had air bags on my last truck and I don't believe they transfer any weight at all. Picture a kid on one side of a teeter totter. Now lift the kid up and put a 6 inch jack stand underneath him. Do you really think any weight was transferred? All air bags do is lift the back up. They WILL firm up a squishy ride but dont do anything else. Someone would have to weigh their setup before and after the install to change my mind. The only thing that transfers weight is a weight distributing hitch or a sliding fifth wheel.

[jsmith948]

At the risk of throwing gas on a fire...To me, this is simple. If you want a vehicle that rides like a car and will be smooth and comfy as a daily driver, then...BUY A CAR!!

IF you want to tow a heavy trailer and haul your camping gear around SAFELY...then BUY A TRUCK that will do the job. I don't agree with those that say "You'll be okay..go for it...you're not endangering anyone". And as far as not seeing anyone pulled over or pulled into a weigh station goes ... during the last trip over to see my DS and his family in Paso Robles, CA, the commercial CHP pick-up had a toy hauler pulled over and had him up on the "bathroom scales". On the way back home, the trailer sat there with no tow vehicle in sight. They ARE beginning to check here in the Peoples' Republic of Kalifornia.
Just sayin':)

[chuckster57]

Pismo beach is another popular place for CHP to use the portable scales.

[notanlines]

Oldtimer, Larry is correct. Airbags transfer no weight at all, either forward or backward. You might feel like you all of a sudden are driving a heavier duty truck, but you are not.

[JRTJH]

As "tax money" becomes more difficult to obtain, governmental agencies are being "forced" to look for new ways to obtain cash. One very lucrative, yet untapped source of cash is the "overloaded RV".

It's only a matter of time before every governmental agency starts tapping into this "cash cow" called "Private, I'm not hurting anyone RV'er".......

[AussieCanadian]

Oldtimer, Larry is correct. Airbags transfer no weight at all, either forward or backward. You might feel like you all of a sudden are driving a heavier duty truck, but you are not.

Reading the "air bag" comments made me realize I didn't specify what type of setup I am using (IE hitch).

So, just for the record, I will be towing this with the same setup I've used for the past 3 years - a Reese 12k WD hitch, with the dual cam sway control system. I use the 800lbs WD bars to shift weight from the rear to the front axle.

[RACarvalho]

As for sway control: Buy a Propride 3P and never bother with it again. I know, it's expensive, but it is a one time buy, it cost way less than the difference to a 3/4 ton and you can use it on any other truck in the future.
As for weight distribution: Understand how it works and play with the set ups, set up makes a lot of difference and not always the guys at the dealer get it right.
As for the braking power: I really doubt that the 1500 RAM versions with more payload have different brakes, wheel bearings, transmission, suspension, etc....
A ton of info on hitch and towing at camamrv dot ca.

Ricardo

[Desert185]

For 220# GVW vs $10,000CDN, when everything else is under, I would drive it and enjoy it. You or the truck will never know the difference...but that's just me.

[cw3jason]

Hi cw3jason - So the way I calculated it was, "loaded truck weight" which is without the tongue weight of the trailer, but includes a full tank of fuel, 4 members of our family (with kids car seats in) + gear in the bed. In other words, all I need to do then is add WD hitch weight + trailer tongue weight (which is 670lbs combined).

got it. hard to believe you are over, but The numbers dont lie. If you can move 300lbs of cargo from your bed into the trailer, you may increase your tounge weight some, but could help keep you under on all your numbers. 300lbs of weight added to the trailer if placed in the right spot would only add about 30lbs of toung weight and put you under your GVWR. Just a thought.

[bsmith0404]

Personally, I would take it to a scale and get accurate numbers not calculated ones. Is it actually 220 lbs or is 150 or 400? Get accurate numbers, with everything set up as it will be when towing. The WDH may transfer enough weight to make a difference. If it is actually 220, as others have suggested, a repack with transferring some items to different locations may be able to solve your problem.

Personally, with a 200 lb GVWR difference when GCWR is still well below the max, I don't believe you have a safety issue as the brakes are rated to stop the GCWR. I would be looking closely at axle rating and tire weight ratings and see where you are at with actual numbers there. 1500s have a P rated tire which typically don't have much for weight ratings. A step up to a LT tire may be in order. If you don't have any concerns about dropping $10k, then get the 2500. My guess is you are definitely looking used for that kind of money. A new 2500 is several thousand more than a 1500 and you are probably going to take a $6-8k bath on your 1500.

[larry337]

Personally, I would take it to a scale and get accurate numbers not calculated ones. Is it actually 220 lbs or is 150 or 400? Get accurate numbers, with everything set up as it will be when towing. The WDH may transfer enough weight to make a difference. If it is actually 220, as others have suggested, a repack with transferring some items to different locations may be able to solve your problem.

Personally, with a 200 lb GVWR difference when GCWR is still well below the max, I don't believe you have a safety issue as the brakes are rated to stop the GCWR. I would be looking closely at axle rating and tire weight ratings and see where you are at with actual numbers there. 1500s have a P rated tire which typically don't have much for weight ratings. A step up to a LT tire may be in order. If you don't have any concerns about dropping $10k, then get the 2500. My guess is you are definitely looking used for that kind of money. A new 2500 is several thousand more than a 1500 and you are probably going to take a $6-8k bath on your 1500.
I agree. I think you can make it work. You said the trailer only weighs 6000 loaded. Unless you just want a new truck.............

In which case I agree it's a safety issue, and I'll back you up with your significant other...........

:)



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[CWtheMan]

This is an industry standard;

GVWR is the maximum allowable weight for a fully loaded pickup, including passengers, cargo and trailer tongue weight. A truck’s gross vehicle weight (measured by driving a loaded truck onto a scale) must never exceed the GVWR.

This is a brief description about industry standards;

Industry standards generally form the basis for demonstrating product safety and quality before courts, regulators, retailers, consumers and others.

[larry337]

Just to play devils advocate, we're talking about 200 lbs. The government also posts speed limits and we know how that works too. Safe driving can trump marginal equipment as easily as marginal driving can trump safe equipment. If we are talking about 2000lbs over, different story. I know, where do we draw the line......

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[JRTJH]

I completely get your point, Larry337, and I agree with your view of the question. The simplest answer is another question: Where does the lawyer for the other side define "too much" and "overload" and "GVW/GCWR" should anything happen??? For many, it's never a concern, but for the one person caught up in an accident, whether they are at fault or not, and the "ambulance chasers" are nipping at their heels, where to "draw the line" becomes a critical factor on their future security.

For some people, it's "pas de souci" for other's it's "protection de soi"

[gearhead]

I think I would get a good weight on all axles at a CAT scale. Then rearrange your cargo in the trailer. If your fresh water tank is at the rear, fill it. Then weigh again.

[notanlines]

What ^^^^Gearhead said. This whole argument has to start at the CAT scale and then go from there.

[larry337]

What ^^^^Gearhead said. This whole argument has to start at the CAT scale and then go from there.
I think "argument" is a little harsh. ... I think maybe discussion. One that never ends, on and on...... :)

It's all good.

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[AussieCanadian]

Hi again folks,

Thanks again for all of the responses. Some really good advice and opinions here which I very much appreciate.

On the possible 2500 upgrade - I heard from 1 dealer today, $8,500 will upgrade me to a nicely equipped brand new 2016 2500 SLT with all the options I need. Less than my expected $10k, hence i'm seriously considering it right now as it's a great deal on much more truck which will “future proof” us in case we go 5th wheel shopping.

That said, before I throw another $8,500 down, I'm going to go and hitch up and take the entire combo to the scales, as suggested as I too feel that it could work. I have actually towed a similar sized and weighted trailer with a 2011 Ram 1500 Sport, and I found it was pretty strong. You’re all correct that I’m “calculating” my weights here, but I have weighed my truck and trailer weights (separately), I have just not towed with it yeor weighed the two combined as a hitched unit.

Heading to the scales tonight....

[bsmith0404]

Less than my expected $10k, hence i'm seriously considering it right now as it's a great deal on much more truck which will “future proof” us in case we go 5th wheel shopping.


I seem to remember thinking the same thing when I had my 2500 duramax, then I bought a 40' 15,500 lb 5er and soon after a 3500 DRW.

[gtsum2]

Agreed...don't think you are future proofed with a 2500...especially if I ever consider a toy hauler. I skipped the 2500 and went to 3500 srw...then bought a heavier Toy hauler than expected. I'm at max limits of the truck...dually would be better


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[PerryB]

Agreed...don't think you are future proofed with a 2500...especially if I ever consider a toy hauler. I skipped the 2500 and went to 3500 srw...then bought a heavier Toy hauler than expected. I'm at max limits of the truck...dually would be better


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X2. If you are even remotely considering a 5th in the future, don't mess around with a 2500 series truck. Get a 3500. The price difference is remarkably little and they typically have about 1000 lb. higher GVWR. If Dodge is anything like Ford, the price difference is well under $1000 and 350/3500's resell better.

[AussieCanadian]

So, a quick update - unfortunately I couldn't get our trailer out of storage last night (it was snowed in at the storage yard), but I did load up some gear (not much, just the essentials of what we'd carry in the bed) + full gas + the family + odds and ends in the truck. We hit the scales at 6,380lbs. If I add my 650lbs hitch (note: I HAVE weighed hitch weight of the trailer separately), i'm now calculating at 7,030 GVWR, which is just 130lbs over.... 90lbs less than I first thought. Note: i'm still 2,800lbs UNDER GCWR.

I'm still considering the 2500 as the price is very attractive, but i'm now closer to keeping the 1500 and seeing how it goes after a few trips this spring, AND waiting until I weigh everything fully hooked up and ready to camp.

Appreciate the thoughts on the 3500's though.... I didn't realize they were so close in price. I am thinking 2500 mainly due to the better ride comfort though (rear coil springs), as this is still my daily driver, so I am looking at a 6.4L Hemi 2500 SLT, loaded, which has a GVWR of 10,000lbs.

[AussieCanadian]

Just a note to my "calculated trailer hitch weight". This is not a calculation, 650lbs was my hitch weight which I weighed last summer - that was with 2 20lbs propane tanks (full) and 2 x group 24 batteries on the hitch.

So, I now have an accurate 6380lbs of truck + 650lbs, calculating the 2 = 7,030GVWR on the truck. I know this still isn't fully accurate, as I need to weigh everything hitched, but wanted to clarify.

[bsmith0404]

Yep, get it weighed loaded up, a WDH will transfer some of the tongue weight to the front of the truck (which won't affect the weight against your GVWR numbers) and some to the trailer, which will lower the weight against your GVWR numbers.

As for the 2500 vs 3500 debate, drive them before you buy you may be surprised. I can't speak for Dodge, but the new GM 3500s ride very soft and smooth with the new suspension design. They use multiple overload springs with fewer springs in use for unloaded conditions. The overload springs kick in as weight is added, so you only have stiffer springs when needed. Makes them ride like a 1500 when empty. If you're set on a Ram, I'm sure they are doing something to soften the ride as well. Of course, I do know a lot of transporters that add air bags to their Dodge trucks because they say it softens the stiff ride

[gtsum2]

My ram 3500 srw rides stiffer than the ram 2500 for sure. The 2500 uses coil springs in the rear. Not sure about the new air ride equipped ram 3500's as they didn't have it available when I ordered my truck.


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[nesparky]

That's a really nice looking 2500! I'm actually looking at the same truck, but a short bed, with the black appearance package also.
Thanks, its a 3500. I did have a boss on one jobsite who had a 2500 longbox, rode just as rough as my 3500.

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[Javi]

I can't help myself....

I've been driving pickups for nearly fifty years and I've never bought a single one because of how it rides. A pickup truck is a tool, you buy them to haul or pull. If you want a Cadillac ride, buy one.

[kfxgreenie]

The 6.4 Hemi will drastically increase your "rated" payload over the cummins, 750 LB's on a 2500 slt. The only thing with the 6.4 if your thinking 5th wheel, you will want the 4.10 rear end.

[CaptnJohn]

I've owned and driven trucks since 1976. At times I've owned 2. Every one a 4X4. The worst ride was a 1/2 ton Jeep ~ it rusted out in 18 months too. The best ride came from Dodge/Ram and for actually hauling, pulling, working GM or Ford and Ford is just my preference. At times I owned a Ford and a Ram and my wife gave up on cars preferring an SUV long ago.

[bsmith0404]

I can't help myself....

I've been driving pickups for nearly fifty years and I've never bought a single one because of how it rides. A pickup truck is a tool, you buy them to haul or pull. If you want a Cadillac ride, buy one.

Maybe that's why you didn't like your Chevy, you didn't get bounced around enough :p

[Javi]

Maybe that's why you didn't like your Chevy, you didn't get bounced around enough [emoji14]
Nope, it rode like a truck should. The problem I had was with seat design, it just didn't have support where I needed it. Only truck I ever had that I didn't enjoy driving.

[AussieCanadian]

Hi folks,

Back after digging the trailer out of snow, loading it, and taking it for a 60M/100KM tour at highway speeds. Short story - it went well! Very well.

Firstly - the 1500 is very capable and handles the load with ease (at least it felt so). Coming from my F150 which I had all kinds of handling issues with when towing, the RAM's coil suspension seems to provide a lot more lateral stability when towing. Impressive.

The weights... so, all hitched up, full tank of gas (I have the 32Gal / 121L option), family in the truck, WD hitch with trailer attached, my GVWR (with nothing in the bed, but some cargo in the truck cab) came in at 6,950lbs. Yep, just 50lbs over GVWR. I'm now thinking I could move stuff around in the trailer a little, and net the extra 50lbs gain, and be under. Actually, if you think about it - once I drive a bit, the Hemi will burn through 1/4 tank of gas, which is about 50lbs also. Heck, I could lose 50lbs from my own self and net that weight... there's an incentive!

All in all - it was a solid tow test. I think I may have saved myself $10k on a HD, at least for now. If we upgrade our TT (maybe to a 5er), i'll upgrade the truck then, but I think for now - it's happy camping :D

Thank you to everyone who has replied to this post - it's been truely helpful :)

[gtsum2]

Good deal. Sounds like you should be ok.


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[sourdough]

Sounds like you've about got it ironed out. Just for grins I think I'd put air bags (I used Airlift) on the back springs to give you a little more stability when you hit some heavy cross winds. The coils on the 1500 will want to do a little side to side in a heavy cross wind and the air bags seemed to help - at least on mine they did. Only about $100 and they were well worth it to me.

[bsmith0404]

Just take the spare tire off the truck and keep your fingers crossed that you don't get a flat..jk.

Sounds like you have some comfortable numbers that you can work with for now. You have learned a bit and know what you need to do in the future when you upgrade to a bigger RV (notice I said when not if).

[mfifield01]

For reference, I tow a 2810bh with a 2013 Ram. I have towed about 2300 miles so far. I do have a couple of things that help out though. I have the normal size bed 6'4", so it has a longer wheelbase than 90% of the half ton trucks on the road (Ram, Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan). Also, I have the factory air suspension. I did put load range D tires on the truck before purchasing the trailer. Only complaint would be MPG, but I think it's normal for a gas engine.

[AussieCanadian]

For reference, I tow a 2810bh with a 2013 Ram. I have towed about 2300 miles so far. I do have a couple of things that help out though. I have the normal size bed 6'4", so it has a longer wheelbase than 90% of the half ton trucks on the road (Ram, Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan). Also, I have the factory air suspension. I did put load range D tires on the truck before purchasing the trailer. Only complaint would be MPG, but I think it's normal for a gas engine.

I appreciate the post, thank you! It provided some additional comfort to me to read that we're towing similar trailers with very similar trucks, and that your experience has been positive. I don't expect MPG to be great with a Hemi and agree it's 'normal'. That said, I feel the power and way it pulls I think is a big plus and worth any extra $$ in gas. Out of curiousity - what type of tires did you purchase that were load range D for 20" rims? I may buy new tires, although my first tow test (with the factory Goodyears) was pretty solid, so might wait until they wear out first.

We very nearly bought the 2810BH, but the decision factor was the length of our driveway, the 2400BH fits perfectly, while the 2810 was a bit long and we would not (legally) been able to keep it on the drive during summer. Great TT though - hope you're enjoying it! We love ours.

Happy Camping! Our reservation systems for summer camping open soon, so i'm getting excited :D

[mfifield01]

I went with the BF Goodrich All-Terrain KO2.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=All-Terrain+T%2FA+KO2&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=76SR0KO2&tab=Sizes

They're a little pricey, but gives a good solid feel when I tow. I air them up to 65 PSI when towing. I usually run them just below 50 when unloaded. Having a 4wd truck, I wanted an AT tire.

[denverpilot]

I went with the BF Goodrich All-Terrain KO2.



http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=All-Terrain+T%2FA+KO2&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=76SR0KO2&tab=Sizes



They're a little pricey, but gives a good solid feel when I tow. I air them up to 65 PSI when towing. I usually run them just below 50 when unloaded. Having a 4wd truck, I wanted an AT tire.


I have a set of those going on 70,000 miles on a Yukon that I rarely tow with. I assume they'd be a bit more worn if it was a heavy tow vehicle, but those things are amazing.

One thing to watch out for. Don't accept a wildly out of balance one off the rack. They do have a tendency to be inconsistently heavy on a side and if you see them reaching for the big weights during balancing, tell them no... You want one that doesn't need that much weight to get it to balance.

They're aren't that many of them that do it, but enough to mention it. Some tire shops will whack three or even four weights on a wheel and call it good. Don't let them.

I can't believe the mileage I've gotten out of the A/T KOs. They're a harder tire and they do struggle a bit for traction in precip and snow as expected, and they're a bit noisy.

I've also had a set of BFG Rugged Trail T/As, and they aren't nearly as hard, nor did they last as long.