Interior trim problem

[ChrisM]

Hi all... I've got a 2015 fuzion 371 and it's been fantastic for the year I've used it with one minor issue. Interior "wood" molding along the ceiling is loose from the wall at a joint. I don't want to take it to my dealer because they have a rep for fixing one thing, eventually, and breaking two more in the process plus crap customer service. I thought about wood glue but don't think it would hold alone. Any idea what type of staple or finish nail is normally used? Having the same issue with the smaller 1/8 x 3/4 wall paper covered trim in two places.

[jsmith948]

The trim in our 5er is attached with what appear to be 18ga x 1/4 x 1 staples. Staples hold better than brads, but are difficult to remove without damaging the trim. I have used an 18ga brad nailer to tighten/re-attach loose trim and, so far, this has worked for us. I have also used Gorilla brand wood glue on a couple of ceiling battens that were showing gaps. Used an extendable brush handle fitted snugly between floor and batton while the glue dried.

[chuckster57]

I regularly use 18ga Brad nailer for batten trim. I save the 18ga stapler for wall panels that will have trim covering them.

[sptddog]

The trim in our 5er is attached with what appear to be 18ga x 1/4 x 1 staples. Staples hold better than brads, but are difficult to remove without damaging the trim. I have used an 18ga brad nailer to tighten/re-attach loose trim and, so far, this has worked for us. I have also used Gorilla brand wood glue on a couple of ceiling battens that were showing gaps. Used an extendable brush handle fitted snugly between floor and batton while the glue dried.

That's what I used too. Mine was door trim that came loose.

[JRTJH]

I did some interior trim work on our Springdale several years ago. When I was pulling the old trim off the panels, I noticed that the staples and brads were very thin. Much thinner than the 18 gauge brads and staples I had. All of the 18 gauge brads I used were very visible once the job was finished and I needed to do quite a bit of "coverup" work. So, I did some searching and found that Keystone uses 23 gauge staples and "pin nails" on interior trim on their products. I ordered a stapler and pin nail gun. The pin nails are about 1/2 the thickness of 18 gauge brads and they don't show nearly as much once the job is done.

Certainly not everyone needs another "gadget", but for me, after using my 18 gauge tools on the Springdale, I wanted something less "brutal" if I should ever need to redo any more interior work. To date, I've used the 23 gauge system around the house, but haven't needed it for the RV. It's a much finer (smaller) fastener system and doesn't cause nearly the damage, or leave the "holes" that an 18 gauge system leaves.

Here's the set I bought and I'm well pleased with them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ARJX0A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EVPO7W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

However, If all you have is a little "loose trim" I'd think a small bead of "Gorilla Glue" or even "general purpose" household glue would be all you'd need to use. Just run the bead of glue, press the trim into place, clean up any excess and hold in place with a piece of "blue masking tape" overnight. In the morning, remove the tape and you're finished.

Good Luck,

[ChrisM]

I did some interior trim work on our Springdale several years ago. When I was pulling the old trim off the panels, I noticed that the staples and brads were very thin. Much thinner than the 18 gauge brads and staples I had. All of the 18 gauge brads I used were very visible once the job was finished and I needed to do quite a bit of "coverup" work. So, I did some searching and found that Keystone uses 23 gauge staples and "pin nails" on interior trim on their products. I ordered a stapler and pin nail gun. The pin nails are about 1/2 the thickness of 18 gauge brads and they don't show nearly as much once the job is done.

Certainly not everyone needs another "gadget", but for me, after using my 18 gauge tools on the Springdale, I wanted something less "brutal" if I should ever need to redo any more interior work. To date, I've used the 23 gauge system around the house, but haven't needed it for the RV. It's a much finer (smaller) fastener system and doesn't cause nearly the damage, or leave the "holes" that an 18 gauge system leaves.

Here's the set I bought and I'm well pleased with them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ARJX0A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EVPO7W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

However, If all you have is a little "loose trim" I'd think a small bead of "Gorilla Glue" or even "general purpose" household glue would be all you'd need to use. Just run the bead of glue, press the trim into place, clean up any excess and hold in place with a piece of "blue masking tape" overnight. In the morning, remove the tape and you're finished.

Good Luck,

I've got door trim coming lose too and my first attempt with normal wood glue didn't do anything. Perhaps I should have used Gorilla brand and a little more of it. The ceiling trim piece appears to have pulled away from the wall mainly due to a natural/unnatural warping so I don't think glue/tape will hold it. I'm hoping that glue/staple and/or nail will hold it permanently. Thanks for the feedback.

[dcg9381]

Yea, same thing here. I use Gorilla (non-wood) glue, but make sure you tape off the wall next to the trim, as it tends to expand and I have yet to find anything that will remove it...

[zuley]

I do a lot of woodworking as a hobby. As suggestion also have a look at PL2000 adhesive. Myself, I would use it over Gorilla Glue. Between that and my Bostitch brad nailer I have not hammered a nail in probably 15 years.

[jsmith948]

Gorilla WOOD glue doesn't expand like the all purpose glue . You might also try Gorilla brand super glue.

[airforceret]

I redid several of mine. I removed all the staples and used clear adhesive caulk, then used a wood crayon to hide the holes left behind after removing the staples. I've yet to have one fall back off and it looks pretty clean.

Hardest part was making something to hold it in place until the caulk sets up! LOL

[SteveC7010]

Yea, same thing here. I use Gorilla (non-wood) glue, but make sure you tape off the wall next to the trim, as it tends to expand and I have yet to find anything that will remove it...
Before it hardens, you can use turpentine to wipe away the excess as is foams out of the joint. Just a bit will do, no need to soak the rag or the joint. (Found this out by accident when I read the whole label.... :) )

[Fishhawk]

FWIW
For years I've used white or cedar colored 30 yr interior/ exterior latex caulking
($3.00 a tube)
To attach or reattach moulding or anything that isnt heavy load bearing
to walls and cabinets

I just apply the caulking , press and hold for a minute or so and have never had it pull loose (so far :))
You have time to level things up before the caulking sets up

The caulking stays pliable and whatever I've used it on can be removed if need be later on with a wet putty knife

Also, the latex is easily cleaned up with a clean damp cloth

Hope this info helps

[mcsearch1]

I've used contact cement on the ceiling battens. It has held up well, and because you let the cement dry to a tack before sticking the pieces together you don't have to cobble together a contraption to keep pressure on the pieces while the glue sets.