Safety chains

[bp926]

How are 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 owners hooking up their safety chains to the new style hitch? It's not taking an "S" type hook.
Also if I have to replace my entire chains what rating should they be? How much above trailer weight?
Many thanks in advance for replies. (tx)(tx)

[chuckster57]

You can use these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I19DNG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1442803354&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=quick+link&dpPl=1&dpID=31PkpoajzPL&ref=plSrch

They come in different sizes and weight ratings. Available at most hardware stores too.

[bsmith0404]

You can also use the ring that Chuckster57 mentioned to install one of these type hooks to your chains. These are also available in different sizes and work well on the GM style hitch. Just make sure you cross the chains under the tongue to create a basket in case it comes disconnected.

Are you sure your current hooks won't work? I've never transported a trailer that the stock chains would not work. I always use the bottom holes and connect from the side. Most chain hooks will not connect to the front holes.

http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=CURT81970&r=IF1003&mkwid=sTVP0IKju&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CPqey42fiMgCFRRcfgodppoI_A

[JRTJH]

If you read "way down in the questions section" in the Amazon description of the "quick link" it says that it's rated at 880 pounds. I don't know that this specific quick link would be recommended as "safe enough" to connect a 6 or 7K trailer. Seems they would bend or break long before you got the trailer stopped if it ever disconnected from the hitch.

The CURT 81970 clevis hook (that bsmith0404 identified) is rated at 40,000 lbs TW. There's a big difference in connecting your trailer to the tow vehicle with safety chains where the "weakest link" is 880 lbs and where the "weakest link" is 40K lbs.

Of course there's a significant difference in price, and you can find clevis hooks rated much closer to the actual weight of your RV, but be cautious using a connecting system that's rated significantly lower than your RV's weight. The last thing you want is to have an accident and find that your trailer is in the "opposing lane and rolling over cars" because the hooks snapped as soon as the trailer separated from your hitch..... :banghead:

[Murphsmom]

We also use the clevis hook. It came with the safety chains when we bought the trailer. I do question the "basket" made by crossing the chains. This is a fairly new concept to us (we have been towing since 1970), and I don't see how crossing the chains would make one bit of difference when both chains start out on the same anchor point.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

Love a good chain. Sadly the ones that are wielded to the TTs are
generally the weak link(s). When I had mine I bought some Transport
Chain > http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Flatbed-Trailer-Products/Grade-70-Transport-Chain < can
also be found at Tractor Supply and other similar stores, and replaced
the chain that came with the TT. Turned out to be some of the cheap
nickle plated stuff you find at HD or some other box store. I also used some
hooks from the same source. I believe that 1.5Xs weight of hitch would be
a good rating to use.

Murhpsmom; They should be wielded on to each side of the tongue about
6"-10" back from the ball cup so that they will actually cris-cross.

hankaye

[007stiggs]

I agree, Murphsmom. If the chains are coming from the same center anchor point, crossing the chains do not make any difference. The only time crossing chains is beneficial is if the anchor points are on either side of the trailer tongue.

[bsmith0404]

Crossing chains that are welded to the same point sounds stupid, I know. Makes much more sense when they are welded on opposite sides. To be honest, I don't see that it makes much difference as long as the chains are short enough to keep the tongue from hitting the ground if it comes loose. With that said, it is the law in some states, I don't have a list of which ones.

[B&T]

Here is a Quick Link rated at 10K

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Hidden-Hitch/49135.html

[chuckster57]

If you read "way down in the questions section" in the Amazon description of the "quick link" it says that it's rated at 880 pounds.

That's why I said they come in different sizes and weight ratings. That Amazon link was for the picture, but I guess it's my fault for not explaining that the specific part shown may not be rated for his application. Anyway, no offense taken and I'm sure none was meant.

[JRTJH]

Nothing sinister was intended in my post. There are a number of considerations that should be included in the decision making on just how to hitch a trailer. First, the chains should be "crossed under the hitch" if possible. This will (at least in theory) help support the trailer A frame to keep it from "digging into the asphalt" as it falls to the roadway. Some states require this, some don't address it and in some applications prohibit it. One prohibition is double towing in Michigan which requires the safety chains to be secured to the extreme outer edge of the fifth wheel trailer and not allow more than 3" of side to side movement when towed in a straight line on smooth level pavement. So check the requirements where you live, they may differ from advice given on a "trans-continental" forum.....

If you think about it, the chains should be strong enough to hold the full weight of the "drag" associated with the towed trailer, should it become disconnected. If the trailer weighs 6000 pounds and the emergency break-away switch activates the trailer brakes upon disconnection, the chains should be strong enough to keep the swaying trailer attached to the tow vehicle while the trailer brakes are pulling against the tow vehicle while slowing the trailer. That's a significant force pulling on the chains, probably a force that will be greater than the actual total weight of the trailer while it is "jerking around" back there. Some state laws stipulate that the chains must have tensile strength to support the full GVW of the trailer, some require each chain to be strong enough to support the GVW and some states prohibit welding the chain after its manufacture. So check your specific state's requirements, this forum is not a good source of any individual state law.

Additionally, something few "novice" trailer tow'ers consider is the length of the break-away cable. Most trailers come from the manufacturer with a "stock breakaway switch with a one size fits all" wire cable attached to the pull pin. Often that wire is 4, 5 or 6 feet long. The assembly is bolted to the side of the A-frame. The cable that should be attached to a permanent part of the tow vehicle frame (not the hitch) should be "customized" to the specific tow vehicle/trailer combination. It really serves no purpose if the break-away cable is longer than the safety chains (whether they are crossed under the hitch or not)... If the chains will hold the "run-away trailer" close enough to the trailer so the break-away cable can't pull the pin out of the switch, then it's too long and won't function to slow the trailer in the event of a breakaway mishap. The last thing you want it to have "crossed or uncrossed" safety chains that hold a "run-away trailer" behind a tow vehicle with no braking action. Try stopping while the trailer is "running into the back of your tow vehicle with every application of the brakes" and you'll fast learn that "next time you need to shorten the breakaway cable" so it will activate the trailer brakes "BEFORE" the safety chains reach their maximum extension.

My only motivation for posting was to indicate that there's more "thought" that needs to go into selecting the proper safety equipment than just finding something "that fits the hole in the OP's new hitch"......

[bp926]

I was being persistent today and kept tinkering with the original safety chains and hooks. I did finally figure out how Chevy wants them connected. If anyone has seen the new hitch design you'll understand. Hopefully you'll understand my explanation. If you push the bent end of the hook through the side hole you'll be able to turn it and the cut end will go through the hole facing you. No clip on the hook is needed. I feel anyway. I used, I call them add a link to the trailer. Which are 3300 lbs each. The trailer weighs about 6540GVRW and we're not picking up the trailer. I did cross them because I feel it's safer.
Again thanks for help and input.

[Ken / Claudia]

Reading the actual state law, (shorten). It says the safety chain (not chains) must connect to the tow vehicle and have enough strength to not allow the trailer to disconnect from the tow vehicle if the coupler/hitch fails. (Oregon law). 30 years ago I wondered when it would be corrected to read chains but it never has. Here's what we do, look to make sure a chain or cable is connected from trailer to truck, the rest is up to the owner. Some have been cited who cut thru a link to make the system fail.

[bsmith0404]

As with any document that contains information for all states, I'm not sure if everything contained is current, but interesting read on how some states don't have anything and others are very specific. Thing I really find interesting is some states do not allow the chains to be welded to the frame, which is how most manufacturers attach them.

http://www.expediter.com/natm%20pdf%20folder/B%20folder/B3%206-State%20Safety%20Chain%20Laws-Table.pdf

[bp926]

I found it quite something to see what keystone has put under the coupling to hold the safety chains. I don't know welding or strength, my son does and is somewhat doubtful the half ring will hold. I have no fears of the hooks and chains will holding.