Monitor Panel Rocker Switch burn out

[junglecat]

We have a 2012 Keystone Bullet 246RBS. The rocker switch on the monitor panel for the 3 center ceiling lights burnt out. We unscrewed the monitor panel to take a look and saw the wire ends to the rocker switch were brown. Is this an easy repair and what kind of specs do we look for in a replacement rocker switch? Funny thing is, the week before the light fixture over the sink's rocker switch burnt out too and we had to replace the whole light fixture. Is this sort of electrical problem common after a few years? Asking because we are having trouble with the local utility putting low voltage out (below 104 volts). Using a good surge protector to protect but wondering if damage is still being done due to the low voltage.

[tommy_z]

I've only been RVing a short time, but read several stories about the same issues you've had. So my opinion is that it is common. But it shouldn't be.

Low voltage on a fixed load (say 6x light bulbs) means the current will be higher. Brown (discolored) wires on the switch tells me they got hot. That could be from too much current, obviously not enough current to blow the fuse though.

I don't know your particular switch, but I bet it's the common illuminated on/off which is readily available on-line or a local electronics store. Should have 3 terminals, needs to be 12Vdc rated, higher current rating the better.

From what I've gathered, RV lighting sucks with frequent reports of overheating and damaged components from power fluctuation. Surge protectors only help against over-voltage. You've already experienced what under voltage can do, and worse.

To help with lighting at least, I recommend swapping to LED lamps everywhere, but the ones rated to operate in a voltage range (like 12-28V). They create virtually no heat and are extremely low current.

[skifreak76]

i just had to replace a light switch in my 2012 sprinter 311bhs. it did not short out, it just stopped working. i ordered a new sigma switch from Burnstines.com

[junglecat]

I've only been RVing a short time, but read several stories about the same issues you've had. So my opinion is that it is common. But it shouldn't be.

Low voltage on a fixed load (say 6x light bulbs) means the current will be higher. Brown (discolored) wires on the switch tells me they got hot. That could be from too much current, obviously not enough current to blow the fuse though.

I don't know your particular switch, but I bet it's the common illuminated on/off which is readily available on-line or a local electronics store. Should have 3 terminals, needs to be 12Vdc rated, higher current rating the better.

From what I've gathered, RV lighting sucks with frequent reports of overheating and damaged components from power fluctuation. Surge protectors only help against over-voltage. You've already experienced what under voltage can do, and worse.

To help with lighting at least, I recommend swapping to LED lamps everywhere, but the ones rated to operate in a voltage range (like 12-28V). They create virtually no heat and are extremely low current.
Thank you tommy z for you explanation of what probably happened. I plan to switch to LEDs and did replace the light fixture with LED fixture. Going to get LED SMDs for the other fixtures. I will just include this loss on my claim against the utility company. My surge protector is Progressive Industries 30 amp portable EMS. It is a very good one and it does shut off the power when there is low voltage, but I suspect there is still damage being done. We only have used the travel trailer about 6-7 times since we got it for 2-3 days each time, so I find it highly unlikely it is due to age.
Thanks again.

[junglecat]

i just had to replace a light switch in my 2012 sprinter 311bhs. it did not short out, it just stopped working. i ordered a new sigma switch from Burnstines.com
Thanks sikfreak76. I will check out the website for a replacement.

[junglecat]

Sorry for typo. I meant skifreak76. LOL!

[bobbecky]

If the lights and switch being discussed is 12 volts, your surge protector and the voltage from the utility will have nothing to do with the failure of the 12 volt components. Most of the time, with 12 volt devices, the problem is bad connections, whether it is the crimped connectors to the fixtures and switches or it is just poor fixtures. I really don't think you will get anywhere with the utility, as they can't fix a 12 volt problem, that is strictly your battery system.