Anyone own the cougar 336bhs?

[Lrdchaos]

Looking for info on the 336bhs. Likes, dislikes, wants? Thanks in advance.

[omextreme]

I have one on order, picking up sep 3rd.... I found a guy on reddit who has one only thing he said so far that he doesnt like is that he cannot reach the top vent fan and is changing it to a remote version.

We cannot wait for ours, looked at 5 or so different 336bhs units before we special ordered.

We went with this floorplan for several reasons.
Tv directly across from couch
COUNTER SPACE!!!
Massive pantry
Opposing slides
Bunkhouse (only feature we actually needed)
Outdoor kitchen

My only wish was for an additional 1/2 bath. The 339 has 1.5 baths but the kitchen takes a hit..



Only thing we have left to decide is the hitch for our ram 6.5 bed truck. Leaning towards anderson ultimate but may go autoslider to be safe.... too may decisions.

[cant_remember_ID]

I have one on order, picking up sep 3rd.... I found a guy on reddit who has one only thing he said so far that he doesnt like is that he cannot reach the top vent fan and is changing it to a remote version.

We cannot wait for ours, looked at 5 or so different 336bhs units before we special ordered.

We went with this floorplan for several reasons.
Tv directly across from couch
COUNTER SPACE!!!
Massive pantry
Opposing slides
Bunkhouse (only feature we actually needed)
Outdoor kitchen

My only wish was for an additional 1/2 bath. The 339 has 1.5 baths but the kitchen takes a hit..



Only thing we have left to decide is the hitch for our ram 6.5 bed truck. Leaning towards anderson ultimate but may go autoslider to be safe.... too may decisions.

I pick mine up on the 28th. The DW fell in love with one that was sold, got lucky one day on the lot and grabbed it from someone else that came in after us. Can't wait to spend some time with it.

Considered the Anderson hitch too, but went with the B&W Companion. Tough decision though.

[omextreme]

Considered the Anderson hitch too, but went with the B&W Companion . Tough decision though.

Too funny, I lost so much productivity at work debating the same 2 hitches (gave up on the autoslider, would have been too tall with the puck adapter). Ordered the ultimate last night from amazon....

We will have to compare notes after the first few outings.

I have already started ordering "stuff" for mine. Ordered a Bills Bumper Q mount for it this morning...

[cant_remember_ID]

Too funny, I lost so much productivity at work debating the same 2 hitches (gave up on the autoslider, would have been too tall with the puck adapter). Ordered the ultimate last night from amazon....

We will have to compare notes after the first few outings.

I have already started ordering "stuff" for mine. Ordered a Bills Bumper Q mount for it this morning...

You sound like me, spending way too much time thinking about all this.

Installed the B&W the other day. That is a nice piece of metal, but holy cow it is heavy! A few more times getting that hitch in and out of the truck, I may have wished I went with the Anderson. I may change my mind when I actually tow something with it.

[cant_remember_ID]

We picked up our 336BHS on Friday. So far so good. I'll post my own thread with the details.

[nellie1289]

I spoke to cant remember privately, but thought I would post this for others benefits.

My rear bunk door is pretty far off, its not like the small hole isn't big enough it is way off, and it changes when the slide is out vs when the slide is in. it seems to have gotten worse. my trim around the door is also now bowing out pretty good suggesting the wood has warped a bit as the weather changed over the summer. I have had a fair amount of issues so far, nothing two major where I would tell people to avoid unit all together, but 3 warranty trips for:

1) the main bottom door lock, it just fell right out onto the ground, I have heard a lot of people complaining about this. I am now super careful putting the key in to unlock it cause I cant imagine what would happen if it fell out when the door was locked and the tipouts are out when you are camping? no problems since they replaced it, but then recently it doesn't seem to turn the deadbolt again, so I may need fixed again now.

2) the bottom of my shower was delaminating from the wall, they put more adhesive on and more tabs at the bottom to hold it against the wall.

3) my tv antenna nob last weekend literally just fell out of the hole. the white round thing, and handle just fell onto the bed.

4) my leveling system threw some weird codes, through this forum I found a cool troubleshooting guide I now have in my underneath storage if it does it again. it was easy to reset once you had the trouble shooting guide.

5) my dining room top window literally just shattered randomly, this was before I ever even used it and I had simply drove it home from the dealer and put it in storage. in theory someone could of hit with a rock or something in storage it but it was in covered storage at the time. it took keystone a month to send a new window. I wasn't using it at the time but it was random! it bowed out from the inside out and had no impact mark like someone hit it. Very odd, they covered it under warranty.

6) I had a trim piece above the main slide just fall off going down the road. they renailed it and put some adhesive on.

The largest issue is the bunk door right now. need to take it in but that is such a pain and they usually keep it for a week.

Looking for winterization plan next, I read the manual, seems easy, need to go check out the water heater...will search this forum for some help as this is my first big rv.

Overall love the model, love the convenience. It is a sweet setup.

[LoneLizard]

Thanks for posting this. Pick ours up Saturday so this is great info prior to the walk-thru

[nellie1289]

Thanks for posting this. Pick ours up Saturday so this is great info prior to the walk-thru

No problem. Let's keep in touch and compare notes. I am happy to share anything I have learned in the last six months you may have a question on. Send me a message or post here !!!

On edit, here is a pic of the beast! http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_185464_0_fb494f07c7c233f6d1809cb7b14df340.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_185464_1_0819712f2cf6dc580d09240f10983c71.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_185464_2_f67c8b4446281a09ee19744adc356ff0.jpg

[nellie1289]

One more word of warning, the rear spare is WAY too low. you will drag it almost certainly inside the first week of ownership. I takes virtually no slope for it to drag. Check it at inspection/delivery . I have taken mine off and thrown it underneath until I can figure something better out like a taller bracket. Horrible design. Thing is if you drag it too hard it will bend the bike rack too.

[cant_remember_ID]

One more word of warning, the rear spare is WAY too low. you will drag it almost certainly inside the first week of ownership. I takes virtually no slope for it to drag. Check it at inspection/delivery . I have taken mine off and thrown it underneath until I can figure something better out like a taller bracket. Horrible design. Thing is if you drag it too hard it will bend the bike rack too.

Good tip, I have dragged mine too several times on the way out of our storage place. I am looking at an under mount rack like someone else posted.

For winterizing, you may know this already, but the water heater and the bypass is accessible through the panel under the microwave. You just have to remove two screws. I will be winterizing mine after our last trip next weekend.

[nellie1289]

Hey this is good info on the access panel, I planned on pulling the plug at the bottom of the water heater and pushing air through the lines through the city water input. My dealer gave me a little adapter that has a bicycle/car tire fitting on top of it(you know the little air valve on your tires) to hook up to a small air pump, the other end screws into the city water. If I am not going to push rv antifreeze through the unit do I really need to do anything in the access panel? I am going to do the air method. SO do I just pop the plug on the water heater here in the pic and open the pressure valve at the top. I planned on pulling all the plugs on the fresh tank, and the hot water/cold water plug near the stairs underneath, opening up all the faucets in the unit(including the sink in the outside kitchen), plugging in the adapter to the outside shower and opening those valves, and pushing some air through. I was then going to put some rv antifreeze in all the downspouts of sinks and toilets by dumping a little in as I have seen in videos. am I missing anything? First time I have done this in a trailer. PS, it doesn't get cold here like reno, pretty rare but we can get a week or two per year of cold weather every other year or so.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_185523_0_d4492e8a8ef9f10c5a5657f112660c0f.jpg

Matt

[JRTJH]

The "plug" on your water heater is actually the anode rod. You'll need to access the back of the water heater, turn the "bypass valve" that's located on the lower water heater input (cold water line) to bypass the water heater, remove the anode rod, let the water drain, then flush the tank with clear water and once all the "goo" is rinsed out, you can use a wet/dry vac to remove the remaining water in the bottom of the tank. Some people skip the flush, some skip the flush and the water removal with a vac.

Then remove the caps from the low point drains, blow out your hot and cold water lines with compressed air (not higher than 40 PSI) until the low point drains are dry, then cap them, continue to blow out the cold water lines starting with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and moving to the next furthest, etc using compressed air until they all run without "misting". Then blow out the hot water lines using the same procedure. Don't forget the toilet !!!

When everything is dry and ready for storage, remove the low point caps to release that "last little bit" of water, replace the caps and leave all your faucets open so they won't freeze and break and pour antifreeze down the P traps.. Also pour a couple of inches into the toilet bowl to protect the rubber seal from drying out.

Don't forget to blow out (and preferably remove) the anti-siphon valve on the black tank flush system.

Some people leave their black and gray tank valves open, some close them. As long as the tanks are empty, it won't matter which you prefer, but be sure there is no water in the plumbing from the valves to the terminal outlet where you connect the sewer hose.

Most people leave the anode rod out of the fitting so water won't accumulate in the tank, but really it doesn't matter once you vacuum the water out, with the bypass valve closed, you won't get any water standing in the tank. Don't forget to use fresh Teflon tape on the anode fitting and replace the anode if it is over about 75% dissolved. Don't put any antifreeze in your water heater, it is corrosive to the tank lining.

Good Luck

[cant_remember_ID]

My brother used to live in Portland, I don't think he ever winterized either with antifreeze. I think blowing out with air would be good enough if you don't get any temps below freezing. I think your plan to pull the plug on the water heater will be just fine. If you are using compressed air, you may not even need to open the pressure valve. Using a compressor won't get all the water out, it still settles in the low spots, that why I use the antifreeze.

I'll be putting aa bypass valve on my water pump too so I can pump the antifreeze through the lines with the pump.

[cant_remember_ID]

You might consider something like this to blow out your system. It seems with the tire valve attachment, some one has to hold it on there while you run around opening valves in the trailer.

Good information from JRTJH, he posted the same time I was writing mine. I agree with what he says too.

[nellie1289]

The "plug" on your water heater is actually the anode rod. You'll need to access the back of the water heater, turn the "bypass valve" that's located on the lower water heater input (cold water line) to bypass the water heater, remove the anode rod, let the water drain, then flush the tank with clear water and once all the "goo" is rinsed out, you can use a wet/dry vac to remove the remaining water in the bottom of the tank. Some people skip the flush, some skip the flush and the water removal with a vac.

Then remove the caps from the low point drains, blow out your hot and cold water lines with compressed air (not higher than 40 PSI) until the low point drains are dry, then cap them, continue to blow out the cold water lines starting with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and moving to the next furthest, etc using compressed air until they all run without "misting". Then blow out the hot water lines using the same procedure. Don't forget the toilet !!!

When everything is dry and ready for storage, remove the low point caps to release that "last little bit" of water, replace the caps and leave all your faucets open so they won't freeze and break and pour antifreeze down the P traps.. Also pour a couple of inches into the toilet bowl to protect the rubber seal from drying out.

Don't forget to blow out (and preferably remove) the anti-siphon valve on the black tank flush system.

Some people leave their black and gray tank valves open, some close them. As long as the tanks are empty, it won't matter which you prefer, but be sure there is no water in the plumbing from the valves to the terminal outlet where you connect the sewer hose.

Most people leave the anode rod out of the fitting so water won't accumulate in the tank, but really it doesn't matter once you vacuum the water out, with the bypass valve closed, you won't get any water standing in the tank. Don't forget to use fresh Teflon tape on the anode fitting and replace the anode if it is over about 75% dissolved. Don't put any antifreeze in your water heater, it is corrosive to the tank lining.

Good Luck

So leave all the valves closed except the one I'm trying to blow out until I am ready for that valve? Why not open the hot and cold at same time on the valve I'm trying to blow out ? Not enough air pressure? If I'm blowing out from hooked up to the city water spout how does it blow the hot and cold out? Wouldn't that just be cold ? Also how do you flush the hot water tank?

[JRTJH]

So leave all the valves closed except the one I'm trying to blow out until I am ready for that valve? Why not open the hot and cold at same time on the valve I'm trying to blow out ? Not enough air pressure? If I'm blowing out for
The city water spout how does it blow the hot and cold out? Wouldn't that just be cold ?

Every faucet you have open reduces the pressure in the lines. You need to maintain enough pressure to push the water "up and over" the rises in the plumbing system. So, opening only one faucet at a time will help you maintain enough air pressure to push the water out of the lines. The plumbing system is "rated" at around 60 PSI, so maintaining air pressure of 40 PSI will assure you don't damage your plumbing.

If you think about it, the "city water" connection is the "central point" where all water enters the trailer. It "splits" at the water heater bypass valve and from there provides hot and cold water to the entire system. The water pump pulls water from the fresh water tank, pressurizes it and supplies it to the same "city water line" through a "tee" connection just downstream from the city water connection. The reason water doesn't flow out of the city water connection when you're self contained is the one way valve that is built into the city water connection. Be careful not to displace the O-ring just behind the wire screen on the city water connection. That O-ring is a part of the one way valve.

[LoneLizard]

Picked up the Cougar this morning. The only snag in the pdi was a leak in the shower. Fixed in 15 minutes.
Camping in it tonight. One trip to Wally World and a few hunge blown on stuff to put in the trailer. It's like buying for a second house.
This thing is nicer than we expected and more comfortable. The 2500HD Denali pulled it like a champ.
Only advice I can offer is that if you use a pullrite auto slide make sure you pull the hitch straight off the pin...😔

[nellie1289]

Great to hear. Yeah I dropped about 1000 on stuff for the inside. Pier one. Wally World. Costco. You name it we got it. Good luck and keep us updated


Ps let's get a pick of the Denali hooked up to it !

[nellie1289]

The "plug" on your water heater is actually the anode rod. You'll need to access the back of the water heater, turn the "bypass valve" that's located on the lower water heater input (cold water line) to bypass the water heater, remove the anode rod, let the water drain, then flush the tank with clear water and once all the "goo" is rinsed out, you can use a wet/dry vac to remove the remaining water in the bottom of the tank. Some people skip the flush, some skip the flush and the water removal with a vac.

Then remove the caps from the low point drains, blow out your hot and cold water lines with compressed air (not higher than 40 PSI) until the low point drains are dry, then cap them, continue to blow out the cold water lines starting with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and moving to the next furthest, etc using compressed air until they all run without "misting". Then blow out the hot water lines using the same procedure. Don't forget the toilet !!!

When everything is dry and ready for storage, remove the low point caps to release that "last little bit" of water, replace the caps and leave all your faucets open so they won't freeze and break and pour antifreeze down the P traps.. Also pour a couple of inches into the toilet bowl to protect the rubber seal from drying out.

Don't forget to blow out (and preferably remove) the anti-siphon valve on the black tank flush system.

Some people leave their black and gray tank valves open, some close them. As long as the tanks are empty, it won't matter which you prefer, but be sure there is no water in the plumbing from the valves to the terminal outlet where you connect the sewer hose.

Most people leave the anode rod out of the fitting so water won't accumulate in the tank, but really it doesn't matter once you vacuum the water out, with the bypass valve closed, you won't get any water standing in the tank. Don't forget to use fresh Teflon tape on the anode fitting and replace the anode if it is over about 75% dissolved. Don't put any antifreeze in your water heater, it is corrosive to the tank lining.

Good Luck

John, thanks for all your information it is much appreciated. Can you recommend a compressor that only puts out 40 psi? how do you "restrict" it to 40ps? Sorry, novice ...

Did a little research and saw this. any thoughts anyone?

http://www.amazon.com/Viair-40047-Automatic-Portable-Compressor/dp/B004B68XGC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1443366499&sr=8-4&keywords=viair+compressor

[JRTJH]

I've got a 40 gallon vertical air compressor in my garage. It has an adjustable regulator output, so I just "dial down" the compressor output to 40 PSI and connect the quick disconnect coupling to the city water input.

I don't know whether you'll get enough volume of air with a small (1 or 2 gallon) capacity compressor. If you have one, try it, but I have no experience using such a small capacity compressor on an RV to winterize it.

My thought is it wouldn't work, maybe other members have some experience with that type compressor and can offer their advice.

[Javi]

I've got a 40 gallon vertical air compressor in my garage. It has an adjustable regulator output, so I just "dial down" the compressor output to 40 PSI and connect the quick disconnect coupling to the city water input.

I don't know whether you'll get enough volume of air with a small (1 or 2 gallon) capacity compressor. If you have one, try it, but I have no experience using such a small capacity compressor on an RV to winterize it.

My thought is it wouldn't work, maybe other members have some experience with that type compressor and can offer their advice.
Yes you can use the small pancake compressors to blow out the water lines. I use mine several times each winter because we camp often during cold weather.

Just set the regulator to 40-45 pounds. The compressor will cycle more than a larger unit but it isn't a problem.

[LoneLizard]

We've made two trips with the 336bhs and camped a total of four days. It has been everything we hoped for.
So far everything is working great with exception of the auto leveling system. We can use it in manual mode but are getting an error about the left front jack which is preventing the auto levelers from automatically leveling the coach.
We will be taking it back to the dealer and it is very possible that this is user error.
We thought others might want to know about our experience so far. All in all everything is great. We consider this a minor inconvenience and acceptable for a coach of this size and complexity.

[nellie1289]

Hey mine did the same thing. I found a post here about how to reset it and a trouble shooting guide and it reset no problem. Let me try and find it.

[nellie1289]

We've made two trips with the 336bhs and camped a total of four days. It has been everything we hoped for.
So far everything is working great with exception of the auto leveling system. We can use it in manual mode but are getting an error about the left front jack which is preventing the auto levelers from automatically leveling the coach.
We will be taking it back to the dealer and it is very possible that this is user error.
We thought others might want to know about our experience so far. All in all everything is great. We consider this a minor inconvenience and acceptable for a coach of this size and complexity.

read this post, and inside of it is a manual you can download called "ground control 3.0 trouble shooting guide. It is very short and easy read. I followed the directions in in after having the exact same problem and it self corrected in five seconds saving me a trip to the dealer. it autoleveled no problem after it self cleared the code. I now have this guide printed and in my under storage for future reference. Page 9 specifically I think is where I solved my problem(of the guide). PM me if you cant find the pdf file in this post. I can email it to you.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22568&highlight=jack+error+leveling

[omextreme]

the front left on my 2015 montana gave me same error message last week too. It went away but its odd so many left front issues...

[Pmedic4]

I use a small 1 gallon air compressor for my winterizing, and it works fine. Set the regulator to 40 PSI, hook it up to the fresh water connections, and do the same walk around to all faucets/shower/BW flush, water heater (removing the plug), and low point drains. I then also pump full with Anti-freeze, since you need to put some in the traps and toilet anyway. I also use it to maintain my tires - it is slow to put 65 PSI in each tire, but easier than trying to use the big compressor at home.

[nellie1289]

so I don't think I will pump any antifreeze through because it is so mild here in the winter, just blow out the lines and dump some antifreeze in the pee traps. But the question I do have is how do you "pump" antifreeze through. I did get a couple bottles of this pink Prestone Rv stuff for the pee traps.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone-RV-Marine-Antifreeze/16213488

[LoneLizard]

read this post, and inside of it is a manual you can download called "ground control 3.0 trouble shooting guide. It is very short and easy read. I followed the directions in in after having the exact same problem and it self corrected in five seconds saving me a trip to the dealer. it autoleveled no problem after it self cleared the code. I now have this guide printed and in my under storage for future reference. Page 9 specifically I think is where I solved my problem(of the guide). PM me if you cant find the pdf file in this post. I can email it to you.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22568&highlight=jack+error+leveling


You are too kind! I'll try this next time we go out!

Cheers!

[nellie1289]

Got mine all winterized today after a final trip for some tailgating and dads weekend at college. Winterized In less than 1 hour and I took my sweet time. Very easy thanks to the advice here and a keystone video on their website. I would not hesitate taking it out mid winter given how easy it was!

[nellie1289]

So today I hung a new LED LCD tv in my cougar 336 bhs. Took about 30 minutes, spent probably 15 minutes of it finding the stud dead center of the wall and re-checking my measurements for hanging the bracket. The stud is easy to identify because if you look carefully on your wall you can see the wall board is mounted onto it with finish nails, and covered with some finish putty in them where they nailed it to the middle stud. I used this as the guide for my lag bolts, but I also used a stud finder and the stud was about 16" in from each side and just to the right of the "mount LCD tv here" sticker on the wall seen in the photos.

They(keystone) says there is a backboard behind too, it is not that thick if there is one back there from me feeling around for it. The stud with two large lagbolts is more than adequate to hold this tv. I will probably take the tv down for travel(bracket has two quick release strings for easy dismount, literally it takes 10 seconds) just to be safe but I definitely fond the stud to be more than adequate for this lightweight tv.

Once I fouind my position I drilled a tiny hole to make sure I was in the stud then drilled a larger hole and put the lagbolt in. The mount even has a built in handy level making your life very easy. I then attached the second bolt, put the hanging brackets on the back of the tv, and hung it in place, I then centered tv on the wall and locked the bracket angle in place. The TV fits perfectly, you plug it right in in the roof, and hook up to the antenna right above the tv. I was done so fast. I layed on the bed and adjusted the tilt of the tv to my preference then took a quick nap in my driveway at house before I took it back to storage.

Parts:

Tv from costco is a 32" Samsung UN32J525D Smart tv, 1080p, weight about 8 lbs Cost of $199(black Friday hell of a deal)

Bracket off amazon: Videosecu model MP409B, tilting mount. I got the tilt bracket only(didn't want to have the arm style as takes up too much room and this is far easier to dismount in literally seconds for travel and lay tv on bed) Cost of Roughly 20$. the bracket on the wall is all that is left when you dismount it.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190632_0_435f630795dc2a5086a7be368fd0637c.jpg

Pictures doing the project:

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190632_1_606891ff2afc3c6169b862bb63a151c3.jpg
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190632_2_f2e580f02f6b4136f29104cbb05e86db.jpg
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190632_3_ca0d98a9711496ae6049d0ef5e1042fd.jpg

More pics to follow

[nellie1289]

and more pics

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190633_0_f2e580f02f6b4136f29104cbb05e86db.jpg
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190633_1_f6dfe5eec184005d2865786866f09ca1.jpg
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190633_2_d37f327a0eeb6c607879e574b46a04d4.jpg
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_190633_3_259d76371ec2b19c49fe60feaf86ac65.jpg

[cant_remember_ID]

Looks great, thanks for sharing. Does a regular stud finder work to find the supports? I would think so, but sometimes things are weird. (tx)

[CaptnJohn]

No need to find studs when hanging where marked as Keystone has a backer board installed. There are stud finders that will find metal (aluminum) studs in addition to wood. They will also find wiring.

[nellie1289]

Looks great, thanks for sharing. Does a regular stud finder work to find the supports? I would think so, but sometimes things are weird. (tx)

it worked for me, but honestly the nail holes where they nailed the facia board onto the studs is the best indicator for me. And there is zero doubt in my mind it is wood stud because I pre drilled it and got solid wood back on the bit before I drilled a slightly larger holed for the mount bolt. It frankly is pretty obvious. light tap with the hammer also gives it away. THe blue tape in my pic down below is where I concluded the stud was.

[nellie1289]

No need to find studs when hanging where marked as Keystone has a backer board installed. There are stud finders that will find metal (aluminum) studs in addition to wood. They will also find wiring.

Capt John- while I think there maybe backer board back there if there is it is very flimsy in my opinion. Feeling around it sure didn't feel substantial and prior to the project I emailed keystone about it. This is what the genius there said to me. I definitely hit a wood stud in my unit by the way, not aluminum. I would think the external walls are where the aluminum is.

Email From Keystone:

Good Morning,

Thank you for contacting Keystone RV. I would like to recommend taking your unit to a dealer to verify there is a backer right behind the sticker as in some cases the stickers were placed but no backer was installed. When you verify there is a backer there it should be directly behind the sticker and it will be 15”X20” so you can mount your television. If you have any further questions please let me know how I can be of more assistance.

Best Regards,

Jasmine Armstrong
Owner Relations Advisor


Ph 1-866-425-4369
Fax 1-866-273-1451
[email protected]

[CaptnJohn]

Sad ~~ don't bother with the stickers then! I hung 2 in a Hearltland ~ one was 32" and both hit would where the sticker was. Still drilled the pilot holes but only as a precaution. The studs sure are not 6" on center to fit the hardware.

[CaptnJohn]

There is a backer board at the sticker in the bedroom of my Cougar 303RLS. When drilling pilot holes I hit metal studs so it was not needed. Hung a 28" on the wall without a problem.

[Cabindweller]

Hello! I'm new to the forum as my wife and I have a 2016 336BHS on order. We got every option except the table and chairs (we prefer the booth). We did add the second AC unit from the factory. We bought our first camper (TT) in 2014 and have greatly enjoyed camping as a family (spent 50 nights in it in 2015). Last year I upgraded my half ton Ram to a one ton diesel before towing our TT from Ohio to Glacier National Park and back. I found the 336BHS last summer and we really like the floor plan. We went to the RV show in Cleveland about a month ago and after walking through hundreds of floor plans, the 336BHS still impressed us the most. The show price was substantially less than the prices I had seen at dealerships. Long story short, we placed our order and it is set to arrive "early to mid March". We're really looking forward to kicking the season off this year in our new Cougar!

[nellie1289]

Hello! I'm new to the forum as my wife and I have a 2016 336BHS on order. We got every option except the table and chairs (we prefer the booth). We did add the second AC unit from the factory. We bought our first camper (TT) in 2014 and have greatly enjoyed camping as a family (spent 50 nights in it in 2015). Last year I upgraded my half ton Ram to a one ton diesel before towing our TT from Ohio to Glacier National Park and back. I found the 336BHS last summer and we really like the floor plan. We went to the RV show in Cleveland about a month ago and after walking through hundreds of floor plans, the 336BHS still impressed us the most. The show price was substantially less than the prices I had seen at dealerships. Long story short, we placed our order and it is set to arrive "early to mid March". We're really looking forward to kicking the season off this year in our new Cougar!

sounds great, welcome to the forum. happy to trade ideas knowledge with you in the future just hit me up!

PS, I wasn't aware there is a table/chairs option. I have the booth. maybe that is new for 2016.

[Cabindweller]

Thanks Nellie. Seems like we have very similar trucks as well (except mine is the 6.4' bed). I trust you've been pleased with how your Ram handles the 336BHS?

Yes, the table and chairs are an "upgrade". I'm not sure how as the booth seems like a much better setup, but that's personal preference I guess.

[cant_remember_ID]

Welcome to the forum Cabindweller. Some good information on this site.

Feel free to ask lots of questions.

I'm getting ready to install a rear view camera after I tangled with a tree last fall. I don't want to repeat that. I'll post my experience. The body shop guys are at least running the wire down the back wall for me since they will have the back wall off anyway.

[nellie1289]

Thanks Nellie. Seems like we have very similar trucks as well (except mine is the 6.4' bed). I trust you've been pleased with how your Ram handles the 336BHS?

Yes, the table and chairs are an "upgrade". I'm not sure how as the booth seems like a much better setup, but that's personal preference I guess.


Yeah, we do. Hell, I will tell you this ram is one fine towing machine! I get about 12mpg towing the 336bhs. Long bed tows wonderfully im sure your shorty will do great too. There aren't too many hills I cant go 70+ mph with a big grin on my face if I want to. My co pilot often reminds me to "slow down" lol. I have a lot of good info I can share with you on the trailer, I learned lot researching here like winterizing etc. Don't be intimidated at all this is a pretty easy machine to manage. I have had some hiccups along the way that the warranty covered. mostly stupid trim pieces and stuff. Things shrink and expand in a wet/dry climate. I have overall loved having this thing wish I could use it more. I took it out for one night last week and didn't de winterize it just to have a fun night at a local casino. But I can rewinterize it in like 30 mins with an air compressor. Its good to use things once in a while vs let them sit.

[toraines]

Hello Everyone, I am picking up my new 336bhs fifth wheel Saturday. I was curious if anyone on here happens to tow with a Andersen fifth wheel hitch? I own a f-250 6'3/4" short bed and was curious about any possible clearance issues and turning clearance?

thanks in advance
Tyler

[nellie1289]

not here for me, but isn't the 336bhs designed to turn fully 88 degrees even with a shorty?

[GADuv]

I am almost ready to pull the trigger on a 336 myself. Is there anything I should look for before my purchase?

[nellie1289]

I am almost ready to pull the trigger on a 336 myself. Is there anything I should look for before my purchase?

Do you mean on the model itself or in comparison to other models? One thing I would recommend is do an intense walk around checking all the fit and finish, look at joints, awnings, look for cracks, seals, finish work(had a ton of silicone that was spilled on mine that easily wiped off but still) latches, hatches, interior wood trim, make them show you intense demonstration of the leveling system. Earlier in this thread I posted some of my common problems I had to return for for warranty work which took the trailer out of service for a while which you want to avoid especially if the dealer is a travel distance away. Happy to answer any questions you have I have had mine for a year and still learning but have done a ton of research and tinkering testing mine!

I suggest "camping" in your driveway before you ever use it. Even use the toilets and test dump your tanks(with clean water only don't actually use them if you want to dump in your driveway!!). For example I ran fresh water into all the tanks in my driveway then practiced cleaning it up like I was in a dump station. Used the shower, the outside kitchen the sinks, all of it. With clean water in all the tanks you can "practice" as many times as you want in your own driveway in a stress free situation. You can even practice hooking up, unloading, leveling, and putting the tipouts in and out. Watch and test all your electronics, your fridge, your stove, your TV's, and awning and all your lights to make sure they are working. Run your generator, test your black water flush, outside sower, the possibilities are endless. This gave me the confidence to hit the open road and know what I was doing before I got to my first campsite. I HIGHLY recommend this. Plus your neighbors will want to know what the heck you are doing. You can also practice backing up, etc.

[Weber]

Love all the things Nellie said. We added a second ac unit to the front bedroom and added some sway bars to the front legs. We bought our camper last year and love every bit of it. Yes walk around it and be diligent. We were not and had to make a trip back to the dealer to get some things "repaired" that we missed during the walk around. Simple things like a screw in the trim around the wheels. One of the biggest things we found out is the outside kitchen sink does not drain into a "tank" it is just a tube. We use a 42gallon wheel tote to drain it into while camping and we empty it when needed. We use our outside kitchen a lot and wash dishes out there so it was a big thing they did not tell us. Keystone told me it is for when you have full hookups at the camp site. My dealer told me it was to empty the rear grey tank.
The camper is top notch in our book. This is our first fifth wheel and I love pulling it. So much nicer.


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[nellie1289]

The lack of a tank on the back sink threw me for a loop too. thankfully I was busy practicing in the driveway when I noticed this lol.

[GADuv]

Thanks you all for the great information. This model seems to fit our families needs the best out of all the units we have looked at. I will be making an offer on one this week and hopefully everything will work out!

[Cabindweller]

I had read a little about the outdoor sink draining situation and assumed I would just figure it out. Since it's come up here... Does it drain out of the rear most grey water outlet or is it a separate outlet all together that just dumps under the trailer?

Thanks guys!

[nellie1289]

I had read a little about the outdoor sink draining situation and assumed I would just figure it out. Since it's come up here... Does it drain out of the rear most grey water outlet or is it a separate outlet all together that just dumps under the trailer?

Thanks guys!

it drains out of the rear most drainage pipe, and is the only thing that comes out of that pipe, no other grey tanks feed to it. Basically its just a pipe from your sink to the ground, lol

[281bullet]

I bought another sewer hose and a "Y" for the rear sink, and connect it to the main black / grey water hose. It works great.

[nellie1289]

I bought another sewer hose and a "Y" for the rear sink, and connect it to the main black / grey water hose. It works great.

I have one of these too, the problem is when you are dry camping there is no place to store your outside kitchen water.

[Weber]

I have one of these too, the problem is when you are dry camping there is no place to store your outside kitchen water.


True. We use a 42 gallon wheel tank and empty it when needed. We actually use it to empty the shower water too and that way no need to cut showers short. Pretty handy.


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[nellie1289]

how do you wheel 42 gallons of water and where are you taking it. to be honest if its just water from an outside sink that is clear I will let it go in the bushes if dry camping

[cant_remember_ID]

Anyone know about how many gallons the straight pipe holds? We have only used it a few times, mostly for hand washing. But I can see using it more in the summer. It looks like a pretty big 4inch pipe coming down, so I assume it would hold a few gallons.

[nellie1289]

Next to nothing. I tried it in my driveway and if you get 2 gallons In there you would be lucky before it backs up

[Cabindweller]

it drains out of the rear most drainage pipe, and is the only thing that comes out of that pipe, no other grey tanks feed to it. Basically its just a pipe from your sink to the ground, lol

Interesting... So does this camper have one grey tank, or two total?

[Weber]

It has two. One that runs front to back under the galley sink island and another that runs left to right near the front of the camper for the shower and bathroom sink.
Both exit in the same spot under the command center in the front.
38 gallons each



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[nellie1289]

Yes, there are two tanks, and they drain from the front tube, which makes for a nice chaser of your black tank. the front grey tank release valve is is in the front hatch, the second one for the galley sink is right where the pipe comes out, just about 1 foot back from the end at the "Y".

PS. it is great to see so many 336bhs owners/future owners on here now!

[Cabindweller]

Perfect, thanks guys!

I'm excited to be here. Just waiting for the call saying that my trailer has arrived and is ready to be picked up... Patience is not my strong point.

[nellie1289]

So while we are the topic, is anyone having this problem on their awning. this is mine what looks like its ungluing from the side of coach...... time for another warranty visit apparently. another 336bhs in my storage area has a similar issue. I have noticed this a while ago, but ...... need to get it in. Mine is under cover at all times when not in use. this picture is looking up....

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_194412_0_8e0ebf2758349467d0a54b10693cb3d8.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_194412_1_03ba3b5fd48c70ea1f84133d6da67aed.jpg

[JRTJH]

nellie1289,

The awning rail is separating from the trailer. It may be "under cover" most of the time, but if you look at the way the awning is stowed, you'll see that it forms a "funnel" on top of the awning that would dump any water, condensation or dew collected on the top of the rolled up awning back onto the awning rail. With the separation, that water would channel right into the interior wall of your trailer and possibly find its way down the inside surface of the wall damaging the wall and possibly the floor.

This type of damage is probably one of the more common causes of water damage in most RV's.

Call your dealer and schedule repair. If I were you, I wouldn't use the RV if there's any chance of exposure to rain or even heavy morning dew. Keep it "under cover" until it's repaired.....

[nellie1289]

ah geez. thanks for the info buddy. It does look pretty bad so I will get it in. I frankly think it has been like this for a while unfortunately!!

[JRTJH]

Something "pulled" the awning rail away from the trailer. It's screwed into the FILON with a "sealant putty" behind it that effectively glues it to the trailer side wall. Do you remember the awning being extended in any high winds or being "overloaded" with water? Or, possibly someone pulling/hanging on the awning or hitting any significant bumps when towing?

While almost anything "is possible", usually the awning rail won't pull away from the trailer unless there is some significant force pulling it away.

Good Luck with getting it repaired !!!

[nellie1289]

Something "pulled" the awning rail away from the trailer. It's screwed into the FILON with a "sealant putty" behind it that effectively glues it to the trailer side wall. Do you remember the awning being extended in any high winds or being "overloaded" with water? Or, possibly someone pulling/hanging on the awning or hitting any significant bumps when towing?

While almost anything "is possible", usually the awning rail won't pull away from the trailer unless there is some significant force pulling it away.

Good Luck with getting it repaired !!!

the awning has only been out on my trailer once ever other than in my driveway when I tested it, in no wind, for about 1 hour total. trailer has been very lightly used, like VERY lightly used. have tons of trips planned this year. work and other things last year kept me from using it much. It didn't rain when it was out. from the way its rolled up it looks like that is the way it has pulled away? Another one in my storage unit where I store has same problem. maybe its the model ? I have no idea. hopefully this is not a hard repair!

On edit, no kids to pull on it since it was never out and I haven't even taken the kids in it yet! lol

[281bullet]

I need to check mine now. Speaking of brining to the dealer has anyone had to do the recall for the slide rooms?


..."Keystone RV Co. is recalling certain model year 2015 Keystone Sprinter, Cougar, Montana, Montana High Country, Outback, Bullet, Avalanche, Alpine, Fuzion, Impact, Laredo, Raptor, Carbon, and Passport, and Dutchmen Kodiak, Aerolite, Denali, and Voltage vehicles. In the affected vehicles, the screws that attach the expanding room to the sliding mechanism cable may fail allowing the room to extend unintentionally while the vehicle is in motion. Keystone has notified owners, and dealers will replace the screws that secure the drive chain, free of charge. The recall began on June 18, 2015. Owners may contact Keystone customer service at 1-866-425-4369. Keystone’s number for this recall is 15-225.

[dgeese]

I just purchased a 2016 336BHS yesterday, in Northern Indiana. Since we had a winter storm that decided to roll through, I didn't bring it home yet.

I've done some forum reading before the purchase, this thread in particular. A wealth of information!

So one item I'm concerned about is this outdoor sink drain. I can't for the life of me understand why a camper this nice wouldn't have it running to tank. The last thing I want to do is have a tote or bucket sitting by this unit when dry camping. In fact, I questioned my dealer about it extensively during the walk through yesterday, and he assured me it goes to tank. Since it is still winterized, I'm not able to try it just yet.

I certainly don't doubt those on the forum that are much more familiar with the camper than the dealer is. I'm wondering (hoping, maybe) that the 2016 model year might be different???

Anyway, we are certainly looking forward to getting it out and about this year. Thanks again for all the good advice and great contributors on the forum.

Doug

[nellie1289]

I just purchased a 2016 336BHS yesterday, in Northern Indiana. Since we had a winter storm that decided to roll through, I didn't bring it home yet.

I've done some forum reading before the purchase, this thread in particular. A wealth of information!

So one item I'm concerned about is this outdoor sink drain. I can't for the life of me understand why a camper this nice wouldn't have it running to tank. The last thing I want to do is have a tote or bucket sitting by this unit when dry camping. In fact, I questioned my dealer about it extensively during the walk through yesterday, and he assured me it goes to tank. Since it is still winterized, I'm not able to try it just yet.

I certainly don't doubt those on the forum that are much more familiar with the camper than the dealer is. I'm wondering (hoping, maybe) that the 2016 model year might be different???

Anyway, we are certainly looking forward to getting it out and about this year. Thanks again for all the good advice and great contributors on the forum.

Doug

I would make him show you it drains out to a tank, which I highly doubt a 2016 would be any different. Im positive it doesn't but haven't checked a 2016.

[nellie1289]

Talked to my dealer today, they are saying this is a simple fix on my awning issue, and not that uncommon. will take it in 3/4/16

[shortedout96]

If it is like my awning on my sprinter it was install incorrectly. Where it is attached to the side of the unit is too low compared to where the arms are attached so when retracted and retracted to far it pulls it away from the unit.


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[nellie1289]

If it is like my awning on my sprinter it was install incorrectly. Where it is attached to the side of the unit is too low compared to where the arms are attached so when retracted and retracted to far it pulls it away from the unit.


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was yours repaired well and no issues since?

[cant_remember_ID]

I just purchased a 2016 336BHS yesterday, in Northern Indiana. Since we had a winter storm that decided to roll through, I didn't bring it home yet.

I've done some forum reading before the purchase, this thread in particular. A wealth of information!

So one item I'm concerned about is this outdoor sink drain. I can't for the life of me understand why a camper this nice wouldn't have it running to tank. The last thing I want to do is have a tote or bucket sitting by this unit when dry camping. In fact, I questioned my dealer about it extensively during the walk through yesterday, and he assured me it goes to tank. Since it is still winterized, I'm not able to try it just yet.

I certainly don't doubt those on the forum that are much more familiar with the camper than the dealer is. I'm wondering (hoping, maybe) that the 2016 model year might be different???

Anyway, we are certainly looking forward to getting it out and about this year. Thanks again for all the good advice and great contributors on the forum.

Doug

Sorry to burst your optimism, mine is a 2016 and it is a straight pipe out. I have to admit this was kind of a disappointment while doing the PDI.

[dgeese]

Sorry to burst your optimism, mine is a 2016 and it is a straight pipe out. I have to admit this was kind of a disappointment while doing the PDI.

Yea, no kidding. Thanks for the info. If that's the only thing that we don't like, then we've still done pretty good!

[281bullet]

Talked to my dealer today, they are saying this is a simple fix on my awning issue, and not that uncommon. will take it in 3/4/16

Keep us posted, I'd like to know what they did to fix it, mines not like yours but it does seem to be pulled away very slightly.

Did you have the recall done on yours?

[nellie1289]

Keep us posted, I'd like to know what they did to fix it, mines not like yours but it does seem to be pulled away very slightly.

Did you have the recall done on yours?

Mine has been in the shop several times. not sure if they did it or not. I keep taking it in for Podunk crap. I guess that's typical for these things. I will inquire this time.

[281bullet]

I haven't had the recall done but I have read they have to pull the top trim work off of the inside of the slides to access the bolts that need to be changed. I am not looking forward to that.

[Weber]

I made a big deal out of the fact that the guy that sold me the camper told me it had a tank when in fact it did not. So the dealer gave me the spare wheel tank for mine. Yes it is a bit of a pain to have another tank there but it is nice when you take lots of showers and need to empty the grey tank mid camp. Keystone said there is no room for another tank under the camper and running the drain to the mid camper tank was not an option.


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[Weber]

Mine has been in the shop several times. not sure if they did it or not. I keep taking it in for Podunk crap. I guess that's typical for these things. I will inquire this time.


I'll have to look into the recall for my camper now. My dealer is 2 hrs away so that trip will suck up a few days when and if it happens.


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[nellie1289]

I need to check mine now. Speaking of brining to the dealer has anyone had to do the recall for the slide rooms?


..."Keystone RV Co. is recalling certain model year 2015 Keystone Sprinter, Cougar, Montana, Montana High Country, Outback, Bullet, Avalanche, Alpine, Fuzion, Impact, Laredo, Raptor, Carbon, and Passport, and Dutchmen Kodiak, Aerolite, Denali, and Voltage vehicles. In the affected vehicles, the screws that attach the expanding room to the sliding mechanism cable may fail allowing the room to extend unintentionally while the vehicle is in motion. Keystone has notified owners, and dealers will replace the screws that secure the drive chain, free of charge. The recall began on June 18, 2015. Owners may contact Keystone customer service at 1-866-425-4369. Keystone’s number for this recall is 15-225.

I checked keystone's website today and I didn't see any recalls on any 2015 336bhs models, and I haven't received anything in the mail either.

[281bullet]

It is on the keystone website, this is the serial number range 2015 Cougar F2509205 - F2509631.

http://www.keystonerv.com/media/2226347/15-225_-norco_cable_bracket_-_web.pdf

[336]

Just signed on the line on a 16. Pretty sure it has every option but the second ac. We will see how it goes this summer. Gotta agree with others the outside kitchen drain idea leaves a little to be desired but wasn't a deal breaker for the DW. She doesn't do dishes anyway.

[cant_remember_ID]

Just signed on the line on a 16. Pretty sure it has every option but the second ac. We will see how it goes this summer. Gotta agree with others the outside kitchen drain idea leaves a little to be desired but wasn't a deal breaker for the DW. She doesn't do dishes anyway.

Congratulations and welcome to the club. I think the rear sink drain is manageable. Happy camping.

[nellie1289]

Just signed on the line on a 16. Pretty sure it has every option but the second ac. We will see how it goes this summer. Gotta agree with others the outside kitchen drain idea leaves a little to be desired but wasn't a deal breaker for the DW. She doesn't do dishes anyway.

Great to see another 336 owner on board. Welcome. We have a nice little group going here

[GADuv]

Pulled the trigger on ours as well. Dealer didn't have one with the options we wanted so it is ordered and should arrive in about three weeks. We went with the sofa option along with the second AC unit. Have started ordering all the necessary equipment and have also booked our first outing before we even have the trailer. Looking foward to our first trip with the family.

[GADuv]

Would any of you current owners have information on the step dimensions? I am looking to purchase the step covers for our dog. I figure the carpet would be a little easier on his paws. I would need the overall width and depth of the individual step. Any help is appreciated.

[Laredo291OH]

We are also looking at the 336bhs, and a new TV, I want a diesel. What is everyone pulling the camper with? I'm pretty sure I'm going to a 3500 SRW, but see quite a few pulling it with a 2500 or 250, does it max out the payload of a 3/4 ton?

[cant_remember_ID]

We are also looking at the 336bhs, and a new TV, I want a diesel. What is everyone pulling the camper with? I'm pretty sure I'm going to a 3500 SRW, but see quite a few pulling it with a 2500 or 250, does it max out the payload of a 3/4 ton?

I pull mine with a 2011 F350 diesel. I think most 3/4 tons have enough payload capacity, but I like having the extra cushion with the one ton. I recommend getting the 3500.

I don't know about GM vehicles, but if you do look at 2500 Rams, I think you need to get the 10,000 lb rating rather than the stock 9,000 lb rating. It looks like an option on their website.

[cant_remember_ID]

Would any of you current owners have information on the step dimensions? I am looking to purchase the step covers for our dog. I figure the carpet would be a little easier on his paws. I would need the overall width and depth of the individual step. Any help is appreciated.

I'm really hoping I will have mine out of the shop today or tomorrow (I tried to take out a tree, tree won). I'll take some measurements unless someone is faster with a response.

And, welcome to the forum. Since I joined last fall, I have learned a lot from fellow owners.

[dgeese]

We are also looking at the 336bhs, and a new TV, I want a diesel. What is everyone pulling the camper with? I'm pretty sure I'm going to a 3500 SRW, but see quite a few pulling it with a 2500 or 250, does it max out the payload of a 3/4 ton?

I just picked mine up last week, so haven't pulled it very far yet. I'm pulling with an F250 7.3L diesel. Per the truck specs, I'm just barely in on both max tongue weight and max vehicle weight with the camper fully loaded. I also have air-bags on the truck with 50psi on them to transfer tongue weight directly to the axle.

Honestly though, the trailer pulls very easy. I was pulling a 31' bumper hitch previously and I believe the truck was working harder than pulling the fifth wheel (as indicated by turbo boost and egt gauges). Not much at all in trailer sway and way easier to hook up.

So to answer your question, obviously a one ton chassis would be better, but I don't see any problems using a 3/4 ton (just yet).

As for the camper: We haven't taken it out yet, but have everything transferred and packed up. It's amazing how much storage room there is in that thing. We still have several cabinets with nothing in them. It's going to be a great unit!

[GADuv]

I have not picked mine up yet but will be pulling it with a 2015 2500HD 4DR 4WD 6.0 Gas. I should be right at all of my weight ratings.

[336]

I figured I was good with 2500HD Chevy. With the Duramax I have tow lbs to spare. I'm good to 15800. Prob close on payload. I have the 10k option so have close to 3k, should be close but not over.

[Cabindweller]

My 336 hasn't arrived yet so I cannot speak to how it tows. When looking to buy a diesel, I ended up getting the 3500 SRW. Once you pay for the diesel, the cost difference between the 2500 vs 3500 is almost nothing. I decided to get the 3500 sand not have to worry about how much my next unit would weigh (within reason). A 2500 might be fine but since you have not purchased it yet, why not just get a 3500 and make sure you're covered?

[GADuv]

My 336 hasn't arrived yet so I cannot speak to how it tows. When looking to buy a diesel, I ended up getting the 3500 SRW. Once you pay for the diesel, the cost difference between the 2500 vs 3500 is almost nothing. I decided to get the 3500 sand not have to worry about how much my next unit would weigh (within reason). A 2500 might be fine but since you have not purchased it yet, why not just get a 3500 and make sure you're covered?

Clarification, I have had the truck for 6 months, I do not have the trailer yet.

[281bullet]

I pull mine with a 2013 dodge ram 2500 5.7 hemi. It pulls it fine, actually better than the 33 ft travel trailer I was pulling before. I notice the truck works a bit harder to take off but once its going you could easily forget its back there, the 5th wheel rides so much nicer. It also stops good. I am out of payload with the 2500, I am looking at a 3500 diesel. My experience towing says yes the 2500 can "handle" it but a 3500 would be better.

[nellie1289]

this last series of messages on the 2500/3500 or 250/350 debate are all very accurate. I will tell you from my own experience I got a 3500 so I would never have to think about it and if you are getting a new TV then spend the $800 and get the 3500. My pin weight is "about 2200" because honestly when I have weighed it, it varies depending on how I have it loaded. The payload on a 2500 ram in my configuration was about 2100 lbs, so you were overloaded before you put any people or gear in the truck. My 3500 has a payload of 4200 lbs, leaving me 2000 more lbs for gear and generators/family etc.

That being said, I truly believe this 336 unit is right on the "tipping point" for anyone that has or is considering a 2500. I think you will be fine but only measuring/weight will tell the tale for your specific tow vehicle and the way you load your trailer. The gentlemen with the 2500 with the gas powered TV is the one who will have the most headway as his payload increases because he has less "diesel engine " weight.

The 2500 diesels and gassers will "easily" tow this, the issue is does your chassis have the right rating for the weight on board.

[Weber]

We tow ours with a 2012 ram 2500 diesel. Love it. We opted for the second ac unite as well.
We also have the couch combo in the living room. This camper is so nice I can not say enough about it. We have several trips planned this season can't wait.
Welcome to the group, I am very new to the forums as well and there is a wealth of knowledge here.
Happy camping.


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[nellie1289]

So just pulled mine out of storage for the awning repair. I was surprised, after 2 months sitting since I last touched it(the battery disconnect was indeed off) the batteries were completely dead. this is the longest I have ever let it sit. As I was in a hurry to get to the dealer I didn't check the batteries yet but this surprised me. Cause? anyone else experience this?

[281bullet]

There is still battery drain (parasitic drain) even with disconnect off, such as propane gas detector, the slides will still operate. The only way to fully disconnect the battery is to install a disconnect right after the battery. I installed one to fully disconnect the battery.

[cant_remember_ID]

So just pulled mine out of storage for the awning repair. I was surprised, after 2 months sitting since I last touched it(the battery disconnect was indeed off) the batteries were completely dead. this is the longest I have ever let it sit. As I was in a hurry to get to the dealer I didn't check the batteries yet but this surprised me. Cause? anyone else experience this?

As bullet said, there is still some drain. Some functions are still active even with the battey disconnect turned to off. I pull mine out, but them in my garage on a trickle charger during the winter. Also keeps them out of the cold. Sorry about your batteries, get them charged up as soon as you can.

[Weber]

Ok looks like i am calling the dealer too. Awning pulling away from the side.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160307/9da6dcb27071976310dc3b14c7b5d464.jpg


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[nellie1289]

ok so got mine back from shop for awning repair. Here is the highly technical results:

"not enough screws"

They said they undid some screws, recaulked, then rescrewed it on with five more screws and caulked some more. here are pics.


http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_195489_0_61dc77b1dc4ba19022ce8c74a54b8841.jpeg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_195489_1_05ae2765b952923a0546f95a3b7a1517.jpeg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_195489_2_97c6af110afa82e21c438f8cdd6a6a0f.jpeg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_195489_3_518cd2bd13e8976d73ec2207bc78f80f.jpeg

[281bullet]

Looks like an easy fix, I'll do my own. Thanks for the update.

[cant_remember_ID]

Yikes, that doesn't really instill confidence. I'll have to check on mine too. Thanks for the update.

At least it your dealer gets you taken care of quickly.

[nellie1289]

I also have seen others at my storage unit with same problem so everyone should look . As others pointed out earlier this is a leak point too so I wouldn't delay!

[nellie1289]

Turning to other news has anyone used the satellite in yet on there 336bhs and if so how did the signals work to your unit. there is that funny loop thing in the bedroom. just wondering how you set it up and get signal to main tv. Great job by keystone labeling all this stuff..... NOT.

[nellie1289]

For those of you awaiting 2016's I went to my local rv show last night and checked out the 336bhs. Couple things of note is the awning on this one looked fine , the rear spare had definitely already been dragged, and I did not realize they changed the exterior color slightly where the white is more or a cream color now. Nothing else new to report other than my next unit will be a Montana those are super nice ! I will say as I compared keystone to other models i definitely see why I picked this last year over the other makes. Very nice fit and finish compared to others and a more modern color pallet inside for sure. Again except for the Montana this is my favorite.

[281bullet]

I installed my wet bolt kit yesterday on one side. Let me tell you I was very surprised how bad the plastic bushings were for a trailer that has a couple of thousand miles on it. The installation only took about 45 min but I already had the trailer jacked up with bottle jacks and cribbing and all of my tools were ready. I spent the rest of the day cleaning and scraping and repainting the frame and axles, mine was a little rusty in spots. I would definitely suggest this MOD to be done to all trailers after seeing the condition of the original bushings.

[cant_remember_ID]

I installed my wet bolt kit yesterday on one side. Let me tell you I was very surprised how bad the plastic bushings were for a trailer that has a couple of thousand miles on it. The installation only took about 45 min but I already had the trailer jacked up with bottle jacks and cribbing and all of my tools were ready. I spent the rest of the day cleaning and scraping and repainting the frame and axles, mine was a little rusty in spots. I would definitely suggest this MOD to be done to all trailers after seeing the condition of the original bushings.

Hey Bullet, this is something I would like to do to mine as well. What kit did you buy? I've seen a couple around. Did you also replace the shackles? Thanks

[281bullet]

This is the email direct from MORryde:

We do have a kit designed specifically for trailers that have the factory correct track installed. The part number you need is UO12-029. This is a fairly new item that isn’t yet available online so you may purchase directly from us if you chose. Your cost is $139.99 for the kit.

This is the one I bought it comes complete with shackles, bushings, bolts and nuts to replace all of them. Great kit highly recommended.

[Painter*]

That's strange, I called them and they told me to use UO12-016. Is there a difference?

[281bullet]

UO12-029 this is the kit I ordered and this is what the paperwork says it is, and it all fit right, the bolts were the right length shackles were thee right length everything went together smooth. I cut and pasted that email.

[nellie1289]

Had my brother weld a 1 foot extension to my spare tire holder. no more dragging this stupid thing that was hanging below the bumper. primitive, but it works! in other news, is everyones electrical hookup mounted like this where you cord seems literally upside down? Seems bizarre to me. Another member and I were talking about this..... see pic for example



http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_196063_0_77c3ee3e200f78a4584dd42da7ff9d92.jpeg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_196063_1_48616029f122abcab5bdcb0e4cc07d75.jpeg

[281bullet]

My electrical plug comes straight out the back not off to the side. I mounted my spare under the trailer with a BAL spare tire carrier.

[cant_remember_ID]

My electrical plug comes straight out the back not off to the side. I mounted my spare under the trailer with a BAL spare tire carrier.

If I ever get mine back from the body shop, this spare tire carrier is on my list too. I would rather it be under the trailer. Right now the spare is in my basement.

My power cord looks the same, up and to the right. A little annoying, but I am looking at a little pigtail that comes straight out and goes to a 30 amp cord. I think this would be easier to wrangle and I don't think I need 50 amps most (or any) of the time anyway without a second AC.

[dcg9381]

Yea, Keystone trailer plugs seem to get clocked at odd angles. Probably by the same guy who installs the stickers for "black" and "gray" tanks.

[cw3jason]

Remove it and re clock it. I have seen this on the Montana forum I believe.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[nellie1289]

If I ever get mine back from the body shop, this spare tire carrier is on my list too. I would rather it be under the trailer. Right now the spare is in my basement.

My power cord looks the same, up and to the right. A little annoying, but I am looking at a little pigtail that comes straight out and goes to a 30 amp cord. I think this would be easier to wrangle and I don't think I need 50 amps most (or any) of the time anyway without a second AC.

I hear you there, I had mine underneath. nice to have my storage back. what a horrible design for the tire mount. They must have a one size fits all spare tire holder for all there trailers.

[Weber]

Yes I turned mine to face down to the ground. I'll post pics when I get it out of storage. Can't wait.


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[Painter*]

UO12-029 this is the kit I ordered and this is what the paperwork says it is, and it all fit right, the bolts were the right length shackles were thee right length everything went together smooth. I cut and pasted that email.

You are correct they gave me the wrong number. Thanks for posting that saved me a lot of trouble.

[Cabindweller]

I just received word from my dealership that my 336 is scheduled to leave the manufacturer on 3/17. It should be ready for pickup a week or two after that.

[Weber]

I just received word from my dealership that my 336 is scheduled to leave the manufacturer on 3/17. It should be ready for pickup a week or two after that.


That's exciting. I have always wanted to order one from the plant.


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[nellie1289]

I just received word from my dealership that my 336 is scheduled to leave the manufacturer on 3/17. It should be ready for pickup a week or two after that.

Hopefully they don't crash it on the way out! The transporter literally crashed my first one lol. Added a week to my delivery!

[Cabindweller]

Hopefully they don't crash it on the way out! The transporter literally crashed my first one lol. Added a week to my delivery!

Fingers crossed...

[281bullet]

Just bought a new tow vehicle 2016 3500 ram, big horn, Cummins, 4x4. Can't wait to start to tow.

[nellie1289]

Nice tow rig !!! You will love it. Tows the 336 like nothing

[Painter*]

woooohooo!!! I pick up the new rig tomorrow!!

[cant_remember_ID]

woooohooo!!! I pick up the new rig tomorrow!!

Congratulations! I just got mine back from the shop yesterday, seemed like a second homecoming. We head out next week for a few nights, can't wait. Have fun with yours. Any shakedown plans? Our first trip was about 50 miles away.

[Painter*]

Congratulations! I just got mine back from the shop yesterday, seemed like a second homecoming. We head out next week for a few nights, can't wait. Have fun with yours. Any shakedown plans? Our first trip was about 50 miles away.

Yes, After I put the wet bolt kit on I'm going to make a run to Nashville on the 30th of this month. ...then the plans are Yellowstone, Michigan, Acadia NP, and the Keys in Spring of 2017. I figured I would take advantage of the gas prices and run some long trips.

[Cabindweller]

Let's see some pics guys!

[cant_remember_ID]

Pulled mine out today to run the wire for the back up camera. My awning is pulling away too, looks exactly like what you posted Nellie.

I'll get some pics up for the back up camera, pretty excited about it.

[nellie1289]

not surprised on your awning, every one I have seen is doing it..... at least we caught them now. I would be interested in your backup camera hookup.

[Weber]

Pulled mine out today to run the wire for the back up camera. My awning is pulling away too, looks exactly like what you posted Nellie.



I'll get some pics up for the back up camera, pretty excited about it.


Yes I want to put on a rear camera set up too. Interested in what camera set you use.
Also my awning is pulling back as well. I pick it up this week.

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[Cabindweller]

SuperGlide install, PDI and delivery scheduled for Monday!

[GADuv]

Waiting on mine to be transported from the factory. We have our first trip scheduled to start on Wednesday, so hoping it arrives in time.

[336]

Ok dealer finally has a Saturday pick up time slot avail. Dropping truck off on Thursday after work. Pick up sat 9am. Beyond excited. We had to wait about 5 weeks to get a sat appointment. So I have been keeping up with this thread. I plan to give it a real thuro once over as always. And this dealer says his pdi takes about 2 hrs so it should be all inclusive. I'm gonna remember to look at the awning for peeling and the elec plug for alignment. Obviously all the other stuff like drawers and cabinets. Slide function etc. anything else I should pay special attention to on these units? I can finally post some pics this weekend.

[nellie1289]

Check the bottom of the shower and see if it is adhered well to the wall. if you push on it you will see what I mean. They added some tabs on the bottom of mine to hold it better. Also check the rear spare tire. it is frankly too low and you can easily drag it ! Take your hand and feel the bottom of the tire/spare cover.....Make sure its not broken right out of the gate! Other than that look at the wood trip and pieces well around all of the edges. I will tell you over time some of that is simply going to warp as the climate changes moving into summer. I have had to have several pieces removed, trimmed, and reattached. This is not a craftsmanship problem more of a weather issue. Since you are taking delivery in the spring wood is going to change its shape and sizes, a fact of life. Check your door on your bunkhouse, it is also a spot where the wood easily warps. Had to have mine realigned. it was fine the day I left the lot, then it warped a little.

[Weber]

I rotated my power cord to exit down instead of sideways. I know it hits the tray when pulled out but made more sense to me.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160328/658f17ca5da2d1388f455869e446b1b3.jpg


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[Weber]

I rotated my power cord to exit down instead of sideways. I know it hits the tray when pulled out but made more sense to me.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160328/658f17ca5da2d1388f455869e446b1b3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160328/fe70e6cbe5b14341c1b040690c5a4514.jpg

[Cabindweller]

I got my 336 home tonight. It was too dark and rainy for any pics. Inspection went well, only a couple of small things that they fixed on the spot. It's a monster!

I have two questions that they didn't seem to have answers for:
1) What's the story with the on/off switch outside, inside the water heater panel door?
2) Do both grey tanks drain using the one valve release handle in the storage compartment? If so, what is the valve way under the camper? That cannot be a tank drain that gets used regularly. I would literally have to get on my hands and knees and crawl under the camper to reach it? I'll try to take a pic of it tomorrow.

[Weber]

The switch in the control center is a battery disconnect. There are still quite a few things that still draw power from the battery even when the switch(key) is in off position.
The lever all the way under the trailer is the grey water valve for the galley grey tank. It runs lengthwise under the island sink. The levers in the main area are for the grey tank for the bathroom sink and shower. And of course the black is well you know.
Hope this helps.
Shannon

[nellie1289]

I got my 336 home tonight. It was too dark and rainy for any pics. Inspection went well, only a couple of small things that they fixed on the spot. It's a monster!

I have two questions that they didn't seem to have answers for:
1) What's the story with the on/off switch outside, inside the water heater panel door?
2) Do both grey tanks drain using the one valve release handle in the storage compartment? If so, what is the valve way under the camper? That cannot be a tank drain that gets used regularly. I would literally have to get on my hands and knees and crawl under the camper to reach it? I'll try to take a pic of it tomorrow.

1) that is for your electic water heater. leave it off until your ready to use it and plugged in, I mostly use gas for water because I turn it on and off all the time only when I need hot water. the switch is there so you never burn up your element (electric) if there is not water in the the hot water tank. Just remember if you turn electric heater on inside you have to go outside and turn that one on or electric wont work.

2) the one underneath is for your kitchen(galley) grey tank. and yes, you have to sort of crawl under neath to open it. I usuall dump black, then the front grey(shower) then lastly the galley, but you can do both greys at same time.

Keep the questions coming.

[nellie1289]

I got my 336 home tonight. It was too dark and rainy for any pics. Inspection went well, only a couple of small things that they fixed on the spot. It's a monster!

I have two questions that they didn't seem to have answers for:
1) What's the story with the on/off switch outside, inside the water heater panel door?
2) Do both grey tanks drain using the one valve release handle in the storage compartment? If so, what is the valve way under the camper? That cannot be a tank drain that gets used regularly. I would literally have to get on my hands and knees and crawl under the camper to reach it? I'll try to take a pic of it tomorrow.

1) that is for your electic water heater. leave it off until your ready to use it and plugged in, I mostly use gas for water because I turn it on and off all the time only when I need hot water. the switch is there so you never burn up your element (electric) if there is not water in the the hot water tank. Just remember if you turn electric heater on inside you have to go outside and turn that one on or electric wont work.

2) the one underneath is for your kitchen(galley) grey tank. and yes, you have to sort of crawl underneath to open it. I usuall dump black, then the front grey(shower) then lastly the galley, but you can do both greys at same time.

Keep the questions coming.

[Weber]

1) that is for your electic water heater. leave it off until your ready to use it and plugged in, I mostly use gas for water because I turn it on and off all the time only when I need hot water. the switch is there so you never burn up your element (electric) if there is not water in the the hot water tank. Just remember if you turn electric heater on inside you have to go outside and turn that one on or electric wont work.

2) the one underneath is for your kitchen(galley) grey tank. and yes, you have to sort of crawl underneath to open it. I usuall dump black, then the front grey(shower) then lastly the galley, but you can do both greys at same time.

Keep the questions coming.

Dude I learn something new every time I am on this forum. I was told the switch was for the battery. The water heater totally makes sense. Thanks man. Again.

[nellie1289]

Dude I learn something new every time I am on this forum. I was told the switch was for the battery. The water heater totally makes sense. Thanks man. Again.

ATD!!!! my salesman always told me to run the hot water valve open for 20 seconds too before turning water heater (electric) on so you never risk burning it out.......also helps get the air out. Gas, no worries just fire it up.

[Festus2]

ATD!!!! my salesman always told me to run the hot water valve open for 20 seconds too before turning water heater (electric) on so you never risk burning it out.......also helps get the air out. Gas, no worries just fire it up.

In order for your HW heater to function properly, it does require an air pocket at the top of the tank. (See your Suburban owner's manual). Doing so will reduce the frequency of your tank "weeping". You do not "want to get the air out".

I've never heard of opening the HW valve for 20 seconds or any length of time before starting it on electricity. Once you have filled your HW tank with water, it should retain that water and the tank will be full. There is no risk of burning out the element or damaging the tank lining IF the tank is full of water.

Not sure where your salesman got this information from but I have never gone through his recommended procedure and know of no one who does. I've never "burned out the tank" or done any damage to it.

I simply press the applicable wall switch (propane or electric) and wait for the ignition to light the flame or the element to heat up.

[Cabindweller]

Great info... So, it sounds like there are two electric on/off switches for the hot water heater. The one outside behind the black panel/door and the one inside on the main control panel. Is that right? I assume both have to be turned "on" for the water heater to run on electric...?

This is very different from the Atwood unit that was in my TT.

[nellie1289]

That's correct. Two switches. On running it for twenty seconds this is only after you hook up to city water or fill your fresh water tank. I'm talking about getting the air out of the water lines not the tank itself. Although if you pull your drain valve on hot water tank clearly you need to let it fill before turning on heater

[ShuperDuty]

Keep in mind, the two dump levers, one marked GRAY and one marked Black,
9 out of 10 have been marked in reverse. So before your first "dump" run some water into the bathroom sink, then pull one lever at a time and see which one has water in it. If they are labeled wrong just unscrew the handles and reverse them. They claim the guy at Keystone that puts the labels on has a "dirty" sense of humor......

[nellie1289]

has anyone replaced the caps on your low point and fresh water drains with a valve you can easily turn on and off (like a ball valve). I hate unscrewing those things every time.

[slow]

I have replaced the caps with ball valves on my passport. Easy swap. Take a cap to an RV dealer and match up the cap threads with a valve.


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[nellie1289]

I have replaced the caps with ball valves on my passport. Easy swap. Take a cap to an RV dealer and match up the cap threads with a valve.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pics? wonder if amazon would have these .

[slow]

Pics? wonder if amazon would have these .

A couple of pics in this album: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/album.php?albumid=707

[nellie1289]

A couple of pics in this album: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/album.php?albumid=707

those are great an exactly what I would be looking for, thanks!

[cw3jason]

has anyone replaced the caps on your low point and fresh water drains with a valve you can easily turn on and off (like a ball valve). I hate unscrewing those things every time.

Here is what I used. They have them in blue as well.

1/2in fpt threaded ball valve. I got them at Home Depot

[nellie1289]

ahh, like this? this would be easy fix yes


http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-PVC-Sch-40-FPT-x-FPT-Ball-Valve-VBVP40B3B/202369936

[336]

Why are u emptying low point so much. I only open that once a year for winterization. Leave a little water in there if you need to use he bathroom or change a tire etc you can wash your hands.

[nellie1289]

Why are u emptying low point so much. I only open that once a year for winterization. Leave a little water in there if you need to use he bathroom or change a tire etc you can wash your hands.

more for my fresh water tank than my low point I usually drain the fresh water at the end of the trip unless its used soon again thereafter. The low point only a couple times a year(winterization)

[Cabindweller]

What water drains from the low point? I'm not familiar with that term.

[nellie1289]

there are two low point drains near your stair case underneath. one is red, one is blue(hot/cold) when you want to drain all the water out of your system when you winterize you uncap them, let the water drain out, put caps back on, then blow out the lines at the city water connection using 30-40 psi hooked up to your city water connection. There is a great write up in this thread(or on this website) on how to do it and a keystone video on there website. takes about 30 mins, easy, don't be intimidated I will help you when you get there too if you ping me.

[336]

Picked it up today. First trip in about 2 weeks

[Cabindweller]

Congrats!

I have been very impressed with our's so far. We haven't gotten to camp in it yet, but have spent a week crawling around it and loading it up. From a "fit and finish" perspective, I am very pleased. Way better than that in our TT.

[Weber]

Congrats on your new home away from home. We load up tomorrow with ours first trip if the season. Cool temps but we will be camping and not working. Haha.


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[GADuv]

Well after a 4 hour PDI we finally have our trailer home. There were only about four or five very small items that i could find and were all repaired before I left. We spent several hours yesterday loading and should finish up today before i take it to storage.

[cant_remember_ID]

Well after a 4 hour PDI we finally have our trailer home. There were only about four or five very small items that i could find and were all repaired before I left. We spent several hours yesterday loading and should finish up today before i take it to storage.

Congratulations! I bet you and you're family are excited to get it out. Have fun!

[281bullet]

Congrats on the new rig. I just loaded mine up for the season, April 15 th starts my camping season. Can't wait.

[GADuv]

Finally completed the initial loading and prep work. I still need to install my steadyfast stabilizers and test out my generator before our first outing. My wife was very happy with the central vac I installed! I am sure there are things that we will be missing on our first trip but thanks to all the great advice here we should be well prepared.

[nellie1289]

congrats on new rig. Central vac? please do share details sir. model, pics?

[Weber]

congrats on new rig. Central vac? please do share details sir. model, pics?

I second that.

[Weber]

The trailer needed a ladder for the bunks. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160412/de4f5d132e0e74ac3477a15f276de1b6.jpg
I just have to stain it to match. It works on both sides.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cant_remember_ID]

I added a light switch for the Pendant lights and the overhead lights in the kitchen area. I hated fumbling with the switch in the dark that was located in the control panel.

I cut a square hole below and left of the thermostat. I unhooked one wire that was connected to the switch in the control panel, pulled it down through the hole. I ran a new wire from the new switch to the switch in the control panel. Now both switches have to be on for the light to come one, but I will probably leave the control switch on all the time.

Sorry, I forgot to get pictures.

[Weber]

I added a light switch for the Pendant lights and the overhead lights in the kitchen area. I hated fumbling with the switch in the dark that was located in the control panel.



I cut a square hole below and left of the thermostat. I unhooked one wire that was connected to the switch in the control panel, pulled it down through the hole. I ran a new wire from the new switch to the switch in the control panel. Now both switches have to be on for the light to come one, but I will probably leave the control switch on all the time.



Sorry, I forgot to get pictures.



Great idea. Yeah I have to count over to get the right one. Haha

[nellie1289]

I count the lights in the panel as one of the dumber keystone ideas as well.

[281bullet]

I added a light switch for the Pendant lights and the overhead lights in the kitchen area. I hated fumbling with the switch in the dark that was located in the control panel.

I cut a square hole below and left of the thermostat. I unhooked one wire that was connected to the switch in the control panel, pulled it down through the hole. I ran a new wire from the new switch to the switch in the control panel. Now both switches have to be on for the light to come one, but I will probably leave the control switch on all the time.

Sorry, I forgot to get pictures.


That was one of the first things I modified. Works great.

[GADuv]

congrats on new rig. Central vac? please do share details sir. model, pics?

I will get some pictures this weekend of the install. I mounted the unit itself in the basement behind the larger cover panel. The plate for the hose attachment was mounted in the stair case on the inside wall. The pictures will explain much better.

[nellie1289]

I will get some pictures this weekend of the install. I mounted the unit itself in the basement behind the larger cover panel. The plate for the hose attachment was mounted in the stair case on the inside wall. The pictures will explain much better.

Very nice! in the meantime do you have a link to the unit itself you installed? Does it plug into the power in the basement?

[GADuv]

H-P Products 9614 Black All-in-One Central Vacuum System

Google search the above product on Amazon for the central vac system I installed. I did use the outlet in the basement for power.

[nellie1289]

Has any of you owners done any "roof maintenance" or greasing of your landing gear. I guess my primary questions are:

1) what do I need to do to the roof for maintenance and any seals up there along edges etc. Mine is in covered storage anytime its not being used but when cleaning I can already see spots where the good old factory workers did a sloppy job of sealing edges etc. what do you use and how?

2) how do I lubricate my landing gear, are their grease fittings, etc? Dry lube? what gives

3) finally, what about bearings etc. anything to maintain on the axles? can I do myself?

Novice at all this stuff.

[Cabindweller]

Finally taking my the 336 out on the maiden voyage this weekend. We leave tonight. We're looking forward to it.

[cw3jason]

Has any of you owners done any "roof maintenance" or greasing of your landing gear. I guess my primary questions are:

1) what do I need to do to the roof for maintenance and any seals up there along edges etc. Mine is in covered storage anytime its not being used but when cleaning I can already see spots where the good old factory workers did a sloppy job of sealing edges etc. what do you use and how?

2) how do I lubricate my landing gear, are their grease fittings, etc? Dry lube? what gives

3) finally, what about bearings etc. anything to maintain on the axles? can I do myself?

Novice at all this stuff.

1) inspect and seal your roof where needed at least twice a year. use dicor self leveling lap sealant. Cleaning your roof can be done when you feel like it, Use a mild soap or detergent. like dawn dish soap. You do not need to waste money on expensive cleaners.

2) this depends on the type you have if you have grease fittings then yes you can lube at least once a year. If no grease fittings, then it is a dry bolt setup and you just replace the bushings once they wear out.

3) Bearings are recommended repack with grease once a year or 10,000 miles. this is also a great time to inspect your brakes.

[281bullet]

Has any of you owners done any "roof maintenance" or greasing of your landing gear. I guess my primary questions are:

1) what do I need to do to the roof for maintenance and any seals up there along edges etc. Mine is in covered storage anytime its not being used but when cleaning I can already see spots where the good old factory workers did a sloppy job of sealing edges etc. what do you use and how?

2) how do I lubricate my landing gear, are their grease fittings, etc? Dry lube? what gives

3) finally, what about bearings etc. anything to maintain on the axles? can I do myself?

Novice at all this stuff.


For roof maintenance I wash mine a couple of times a year with just soapy water, check all seals for cracks, I have used a tan dicor lap sealant self leveling product #501LST. It comes in a caulking tube. The problem is you open it and only has a limited open shelf life.

Landing gear: I haven't lubed mine, looking to see what other have to say. I haven't seen any grease fittings.

Axle bearings I have not done on this camper yet, It is like any other camper in the spring I usually take the wheel bearings all apart, Inspect, re grease, and change seals (Cheap). I didn't do it this spring we only had a few trips last season. The camper stayed at the campground for 8 weeks.

[336]

Ok, first trip in the books. Tows unbelievably better than our 38' TT. All in all everything was good. The snap holder for the bathroom pocket door lasted about 15 miles im guessing. Just won't snap anymore, apparently it's wore out after about five snaps. I agree on the kitchen lights. Hard to find in the dark. I was thinking of just changing the pendants to a lighted switch like the water heater ones. But always on. Maybe a different color. That would make finding it a lot easier. I think they could have spared the few inches and put a full queen bed. Prob be ordering one in the future. I think you will still be able to walk around. That xtra couple inches really makes a difference. I hate my feet hanging off the end. And I'm dumbfounded with the kitchen sink drain valve. Horrible location what a pain. Why couldn't the put that closer to the side of the trailer or run a cable to the other valves in the basement. And after using my black tank flush and disconecting the hose, water ran out of the camper line. Shouldn't that have a back flow preventer? Is the backflow preventer closer to the tank so the line drains for winterizeing? I'm gonna put a backflow preventer in it in the docking station just to be safe. Other than that nothing but rave reviews. I used my label maker to label the slide controls in the control panel. Everything else worked as it should. I love the leveling system. The return to truck mode is great. What a handy feature. I can hook up in about 1/2 the time it took with the TT. DW loved everything. All of the complaints are on my end of the operations. Fit and finish wise no problems. Tons of storage. We love it

[Cabindweller]

Good to hear 336.

We also completed our maiden voyage this weekend. Other than a little "tail dragging" coming out of our driveway, it was a flawless trip! I will be modifying my driveway to eliminate this. The camper was extremely comfortable all weekend. Hitching and unhitching (and leveling) took about 1/3 as long as it used to with my TT. The fifth wheel towed very nicely as well!

Other than the location of the galley drain valve (which 336 also mentioned), I'm very pleased with the whole setup! Wife and kids were thrilled also!

[nellie1289]

congrats to both of you!

[cant_remember_ID]

Nice report you two. Glad you're happy with it. I agree the galley drain valve isn't the most convenient. I'll be interested as you make adjustments and modifications. Our next planned trip is memorial day, but I may have to find another weekend sooner. Hate to see it sitting around with nothing to do.

[336]

So my I looked into the black tank flush issue. (Dumps out a little water from connection when I disconnect hose). I took off the screen on connection port and there is no check valve. Checked the city water port (same exact port ) and it has a spring check valve in it. Dealer says that's normal and black flush has a vacuum breaker installed further down line. I found some info on this on other posts, prob under the sink I think. Ok all makes sense. But wouldn't a check valve at the connection port stop the water pouring into the docking station when I disconnect. Seems silly to not have it. Is dealer bs me? Do you guys have a check valve on both ports or just the city? Dealer won't give me a check valve as he said that's how it is. May just order one.

[Weber]

So my I looked into the black tank flush issue. (Dumps out a little water from connection when I disconnect hose). I took off the screen on connection port and there is no check valve. Checked the city water port (same exact port ) and it has a spring check valve in it. Dealer says that's normal and black flush has a vacuum breaker installed further down line. I found some info on this on other posts, prob under the sink I think. Ok all makes sense. But wouldn't a check valve at the connection port stop the water pouring into the docking station when I disconnect. Seems silly to not have it. Is dealer bs me? Do you guys have a check valve on both ports or just the city? Dealer won't give me a check valve as he said that's how it is. May just order one.

good to know about the flush. I put a shut off at the hose end and just turn it off before unhooking. the thought of water from the black tank coming out did not sound good. glad you like the camper. We took ours out this weekend and I learn something new each and every time we take it out. I hope by the end of the season I will have my system down and all organized. probably not but it is a learning process.

[281bullet]

I just changed the mattress (foam pad) with a regular queen size bed. What a huge difference. It was a bit of a struggle to get it in but we did it. There is still room to walk in the front of the bed.

[nellie1289]

I have actually been pleasantly surprised with the matress in the main bedroom. it is pretty comfy night sleep.

[336]

I have a black hose I use for the back outside kitchen tank. I then rinse it out and use it for the black tank. I have no just been unhooking it at the site water bib first instead of in the docking station. I think any kind of backflow preventer or shutoff will impede the function of the vacuum breaker. Don't want to do that. Took a little thinking to get it figured out. I think this method is best practice. Took the rig down 81 in PA to Hershey this weekend. Worst ride in America by my vote. And had a large screw pop thru the floor behind the kitchen island. Well kinda upset and now I have a hole in the floor. Basically impossible to fix without butchering the floor so I guess I will just deal with it. Floor mat usually covers it when we are camping. I screwed it back down but I'm kinda concerned, if it pops back up it could possible get caught on the slide coming in or out and do some real damage. Gonna email dealer today. Might glue it in or something. http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_200862_0_e3a31b21ba8f458583c927b9bc625367.jpg[/URL][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

[336]

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_200863_0_aef8d7381d1e7367ae206ed4e2e9847b.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

[336]

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_200864_0_4db42d0c61273386120c2e3ebc488c69.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

[JRTJH]

Vinyl flooring repairmen can do "wonders" to repair damage such as yours. When finished, it's almost impossible to see the repair. You might want to contact your dealer and have it repaired on Keystone's dime (warranty).

Not repairing it will allow any water that should be on the kitchen floor to enter the space between the vinyl and the subfloor. Although probably not enough to cause "water damage", a constant dampness (even from winter condensation) could be enough to get mold established under the vinyl. That could cause problems later on. I'd get it fixed while there's still time.

[GADuv]

So I finally finished the install of my new generator plug and transfer switch this weekend. I was able to fish the power cord under the front compartment into the basement and then into the area where the distribution panel is located. I will now be able to run my Champion generator in the bed of the truck if needed for those quick stops on long trips.

[nellie1289]

That's pretty clever GADUV, you ever thought about running the generator while going down the road now with that setup? Could run the ac inside etc.

[nellie1289]

Hey everyone. been doing some research on how to hook my satellite up the trailer and after a lot of research I found this schematic someone on this site put together. I think to use your dish you would just hook the satellite into the satellite in in the left forward compartment, then put your box in the main entertainment unit and connect it to the bottom plug in there, then hook up the tv through HDMI off your Dish box. I haven't tried mine yet but I am positive this is going to work. I read a lot about how you cant run it through the cable input because of the amp and multiple splittings to make the amp and antenna work on every output in the trailer(Bunkhouse, main living, bedroom, and front hatch). I am sure this is why its wired this way. So you can have satellite in your main room and leave everything else hooked up to antenna/over the air etc.http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_201560_0_e816939c6109ceb44900b8ea06fefd2b.png

[nellie1289]

So I actually went and hooked up the dish to the main tv tonight. Simple. Just hooked up the dish to the satellite prep line in front left hatch and went to main tv and connected coax from bottom port(dedicated like for dish) to receiver and then receiver to the tv using hdmi. Worked perfect. No issues. All I have to do is grab one of my main receivers at the house. Pointed the dish using my iPhone compass. Got to 90% signal strength in less than ten minutes. Ran the whole thing off the champion 2800 and had the 13.5 btu ac blasting. Great!

[GADuv]

The trailer needed a ladder for the bunks. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160412/de4f5d132e0e74ac3477a15f276de1b6.jpg
I just have to stain it to match. It works on both sides.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone have the dimensions on this ladder?

[JamieTFelts]

My husband and I installed a cable flush valve on the wretched valve you have to crawl under the coach to pull. You can find the full info here...

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?p=202117#post202117

[Weber]

Does anyone have the dimensions on this ladder?

the sides are made of 1x3x4 (I bought 1x3x8 and cut in half) The
rungs are dowl rods that are 1 3/8 diameter and I used a hole saw to counter sink
the rods in the inside. Then predrilled the holes for the lag screws.
The ladder is 24 " wide.
I kept it long so you can use it on both bunks.
The hooks I made from bending plates into shape with a bench vice.
Then I black taped them.
I put felt on the ends I rounded off to keep it from tearing up the floor
and bottom bunk.
Then I stained it to sort of match.
I hope this helps

I have pics in an album but can't get them attached.

[Weber]

Has anyone had issues keeping the camper cool during hot days at the camp ground? The ac is blowing cold air but just can not keep the coach cool. All shades are closed and I closed the vents( I thought the max air would let the hot air out the top) today the coach was 80. It was only 84-87 outside. Unit was not frozen up. dripping and running like normal. Just not moving enough of the cold air around.

[336]

Anyone have a link to a lighted switch that matches the ones in the panel for the interior lights. I'm looking for one that is lit all the time, off position as well. I want to replace the pendant light switch with it so it's easy to see when entering the camper in the dark. I know they make these type, I had some in a previous camper. I have found the ones that are illuminated in the on position. And found some 110 that are illuminated full time. Looking for 12v always illuminated same size and style as what in the panel now.

[bgilsrud]

Any advice on the gray tank drain that's half under the coach? What other mods are must do? Just picked up our 2017 model .

[GADuv]

Would anyone know what the PSI rating is on the wheels?

[bgilsrud]

Let's see some pics of your mods done to the 336hbs!

[Chaz55]

Hello all.....new to the forum and it's scary to read this thread! Seems we all have the same problems! Where have I been for the last year?

We upgraded to a 2015 cougar 336 BHS and after 8 trips and about 8,000 miles here's my list of problems:

1- bunk house door......yeah sometimes it closes....sometimes it don't. Level or not level.....it don't make a difference. I've given up on adjusting it! It's obviously the frame of the Rv torquing in certain circumstances.

2- rather serious....horrible braking.....which dealer blamed on my truck, turned out to be a broken brake cable which actually only had one tire receiving the brake signal from the truck. Easy fix but really scary. Please look under your Rv to see just how exposed the electric brake wiring really is. Accidentally running over a small branch in a campground could easily disable the brakes on these rigs.

3- spare tire.....piss poor location unless you plan on using it to help with problem #2! Great for decorating your new asphalt driveway with deep grooves! Hence, rewelded and adjusted.......to drag less. Still not perfect. Tried a set of steel drag wheels on the bumper.

4- plastic compartment latch on outdoor kitchen shattered. Why? Because it's plastic crap. Just out of warranty....replaced for $20.

5- just noticed the awning pulling away from the sidewall of the unit. Looks like too much tension on the fabric when fully retracted has pulled 6 inches of material off the Rv wall......back to dealer for this one!

6- zone c of the entertainment system took a permanent vacation! The outdoor speakers might be junk but they still work when isolated...wiring has continuity...no output from head unit. Phone calls necessary for this one!

7- leveling system times out on auto level, gives LF jack problem code or other random error. The Lippert manual is useless! I just reboot it and try again. Manual leveling is much more reliable.

8- yeah....no tank on the outdoor kitchen sink.....just an inconvenience. We camp a lot on the beach soooo it accidentally gets left open often as I just was my hands while using the bbq

9- broken slide on drawer in bunk hose. Prob from the kids. Two new screws solved the problem till the crappy press board cabinetry falls apart.

10- random screw pops after round trip from Ny to Florida. Expected I guess.

Overall, the family loves the new Rv. Yeah, few small problems but we are 7"camping so who really cares. A bad day in the camper is better than a good
day at work.

I'm looking to upgrade the vent above the kitchen sink. I'm done putting my daughter on my shoulders to crank open the vent. Is there electric in the ceiling there? I wanna swap it with a ventastic remote controlled fan / vent.

Only upgrade so far has been LED lighting down the underside of the rig from front to back. Wired it to the porch light switch. It looks crazy at night. And put in a three way valve by the water hook up / water pump to make winterizing a breeze. Turn the valve and the pump pulls antifreeze from a 16 inch tube I put in a gallon of the pink junk. Done in 10 min!

Looking forward to learning from everyone on the forum. Thanks in advance!
Charles

[nellie1289]

Charles, thank you for your quality report. yes, many of those problems are common. the awning and bunk house door definitely got me. I will say this the problems have definitely subsided, so that is good. About to get in and go for a ride now! hopefully it will be a stress free camping weekend.

[nellie1289]

One more thing I would recommend owners do is definitely ALWAYS CHECK your cabinet doors before opening slides before you open them. I will tell you that they seem to want to pop open on me, and the bunk house is especially problematic. I now put Velcro fasteners on the doors to keep them together during travel just in case they want to pop open. if the ones open above the rear tv during motion its nearly impossible to get them closed without a tiny child crawling back there before you move the slide to close them.

[Weber]

welcome to the forum. We have had our 336 for a year now and have little annoying things all over. All in all we love it and none of the anoyances were deal breakers. I am going to put a few more screws in the awning track, to keep it tight. We have not had an issue with the bunk door (yet) but i can see how it would do that. love the three way for winterizing. Might do that. I added a ladder for the bunk also. we did have to replace the radio. The dealer said they are known for going out and the outdoor speakers stop working.
No trips planned for a few weeks but we love pulling it around. This is my first fifth when (coming from a travel trailer) and I love it.
Happy camping!!!

[336]

Charles, can u post some picks of your 3 way valve winterizing setup. I think I get the concept. Just would love to see how you have it set up. Thanks.

[nellie1289]

fellow 336 owners, here is a thread I started on the trials and tribulations of my grease seals and full replacement of brakes. you might find it interesting. if you see oil on your rim get it in right away it will fry your brakes it appears.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=25356

[nellie1289]

After getting my grease seals replaced as noted above, I set out on my trip to Disney in Anaheim which is about 2000 miles round trip from Portland. I cant say my first long distance trip went well, the trip was fine, but the trailer showed more quality issues. The journey went fine, but the trailer itself is just not holding up. First of all, I had ANOTHER blown grease seal, Same side as the last time, so im sure the brakes are torched again because of the grease getting on them. I rarely use the brakes at speed, the exhaust brake on my truck does most the work. This will obviously be covered by the dealer, so whatever on the cost, but why cant these hold together. I spend more time at the dealer than I do enjoying this sled. The quality is simply not holding up Keystone! Maybe there is a larger problem on the axes, I have no idea, not a mechanic.
2) Second, I noticed some ripples in the roof where the rubber meets the cap on the drive home. Upon arriving home(was within about 150 miles from home when I noticed this on one of my diesel fill up inspections) I broke out my 10 foot ladder and took pictures. It appears the roof seal came completely undone around the front edge. And obviously it is lifting because of that, I’m not sure if there is more adhesive underneath but it doesn’t feel like it as the ripples sort of settle out in the sun after a while. See attached pictures for the damages.
3) Finally, the dinette appears to be coming apart from the slide in which it is screwed to. You only notice it when the slide is in. As it makes its final motion as the slide comes in, when the slide tips upward it pulls apart from the wall. This is not major but needs fixed too. When the slide is out the dinette is flush to the wall but the whole dinette moves when the slide comes in.

I am literally losing count of the number of trips I have made to the dealer in my 15 months of ownership. It has been a very frustrating item to own to be honest. Every trip I take, I then have to bring it in for something pretty major, whether that was the awning pulling off the side, the bunkhouse door being unable to close, these items now noted above and the prior brake replacement, or the litany of other ticky tack items that I have had to fixed under warranty.

I will see what my dealer does about all this, but I seriously want to reach out to keystone on this trailer. I’m getting tired of taking time out of my busy schedule for constant repairs when all I want to do is use it and enjoy. It is awesome when it works, but that has been rare it seems.

My next trip is in 10 days, so I better get it back in time. I have to say I can no longer officially say I would recommend someone buy a keystone product.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_209126_0_1b1636d1f9b4e44b996ac1f5c0045739.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_209126_1_8b24176e5f348ddb6d4045183c8a3af5.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_209126_2_b1b2c04590d08e3a899b0cd942fe86d4.jpg

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_209126_3_2a1ffff919414ee5ba269e268d367195.jpg

[JRTJH]

As for the roof, it looks like the adhesive "failed" under a part of the roofing membrane. In all probability, as you tow, wind is either flowing over the roof "pulling it up" or wind is getting under the roof membrane and is lifting it up. That "stretched" the membrane and the result is what you see.

On your wheel, have you noted a decrease in braking capability? Is it possible that the axle, seal and brake repair is "OK" and the new grease stain comes from "old grease" that was not cleaned off the inner part of the wheel, not from another bad grease seal? I'd certainly have it looked at, but it may not be as bad as you think, rather the result of an "incomplete cleaning" when the seals were replaced ???

[kfxgreenie]

OUCH :eek:

[Chaz55]

11075

Someone asked for a pic.....hope its there. I placed a three way valve behind the white box in the cargo area where the city water hook up is. Its easy to get to by removing the two screws holding the angled wall board in place. I was going to make holes and actually put it inside the white box but really I only need to get to it once a year. One input on the valve goes to the fresh water storage tank. The second input has a three foot section of flexible hose that i stuff in a gallon of antifreeze for winterizing (it has some of the red junk in it.) The blue pex is the output from the valve and goes to the input for the water pump. Moving the handle on the valve allows the pump to pull from different sources. Making winterizing a breeze!

Also finished two other projects this weekend.....keypad controlled door lock so the kids can get in with a simple code instead of bothering me for the keys.......and I replaced the useless vent above the kitchen sink with a remote controlled Fan-tastic fan. I just needed to snake a length of wire from the bathroom fan to the vent above the sink for constant 12 volt power. Now the vent works by remote control! No need for the ladder to open the vent.

Lastly, after 5,000 miles and two trips to the dealer to complain about the brakes, I think I got them figured out. I took the rv to a non keystone dealer and had all the bakes pulled apart. One set horribly worn beyond repair, two moderately worn, last one appeared not to have been working at all! Long and short..... i replaced everything.....bearings, pads, magnets, drums and figured id start from scratch. Seems as through they were never adjusted right from the factory. Also the brake wires on the driver side of the rig were not long enough, with all the weight off the suspension, they would pull sooooo tight they almost broke. Replaced that mess as well. Im one month out of warranty and only hope I can convince Keystone to at least go 50/50 with me on the parts.

[nellie1289]

Update to my prior post, keystone is covering everything for me especially the roof!, Even though I am past warranty by a couple months, this is clearly a manufacturing defect.. So I appreciate them stepping up. They are also reiumbursing me for my last blown grease seal and brake work that I had to pay for. The dealer said I didn't blow another grease seal, its remnant grease from the last job an the tech should of cleaned the inner wheel, so they reinspected it all, cleaned it all up, and good to go on that.

[bgilsrud]

Who has put the winterizing kit in this unit? Post pics please. Thank you

[Eastern Shore]

good looking unit and truck enjoy

[mets721]

I had the same issue with my Zone C in the entertainment center. Just stopped working one day. Next day its back on, then its out, etc. I pulled the head unit out and checked the connections and they were all good. Called the service center and they said to check the outside speakers themselves because a wire can come loose, but I doubt that's the issue. That would mean that wires in each speaker come loose at the same time, I don't think so. Going to schedule a service appointment to have that unit replaced after the season.

[336]

Have the same thing going on. Zone C not working. The plugs on the back of the unit stink. I wiggled them around and got it to work. Then it's out. It's not a tight connection. Junk. Gonna have the unit replaced but it will most likely be the same junk that everyone else is having problems with. Prob just buy a better head unit next year.

[truth]

My 336 did the same thing. The screw did catch my kitchen slide and it ripped the trim off. I'm waiting until the end of the season to bring it in for warranty work.

[Gpa-Dave]

read this post, and inside of it is a manual you can download called "ground control 3.0 trouble shooting guide. It is very short and easy read. I followed the directions in in after having the exact same problem and it self corrected in five seconds saving me a trip to the dealer. it autoleveled no problem after it self cleared the code. I now have this guide printed and in my under storage for future reference. Page 9 specifically I think is where I solved my problem(of the guide). PM me if you cant find the pdf file in this post. I can email it to you.

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22568&highlight=jack+error+leveling

What an interesting read. Thanks for the info. the link above wouldn't work for me ........ thanks to this thread, I found this at Lippert.

http://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Leveling%20and%20Stabilization/Ground_Control_3.0_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf

[336]

Had the floor fixed again. And a new radio installed. (Zone c). Works great now. Dealer said he had 4 other 336 in for the screw by the island also. They removed and repaired it again. Should have left the screw out first time. Now more concerning. As I seen in other posts and maybe touched on in this. Wtf. No winterization prep on the pump. 42k and they saved 14$ on this. Can't make it up. Actually has an ok water heater bypass. Kind of a pain behind the panel but it works. Pump has no set up at all and if you were inclined it would require crawling thru the pass thru. No thanks. Blew out with air. Put 6 gal in the tank and pumped it thru. Will rinse and sanitize as normal in the spring. Disappointed in the things they cut corners on.

[nellie1289]

while we are on the topic of more annoyances the top lock of my entry door simply fell right out again when I put the key in. Second time this has happened. I mean literally just fell on to the ground.

Second, has anyone noticed on the fuse box that it is sort of "loose' meaing my bathroom fan/light you have to jiggle the fuse for that room or the little red light comes on. the fuse is in tight, I don't know why but if I put pressure on the fuse it goes back on. ANNOYING.

I have also noticed on my bedroom slide that the flaps don't reverse course anymore when you put it out so for example before I put it out I actually stick my hand in there and push them towards the outside so it makes a good rain seal when they are out. I think its because the slide only goes out such a short distance. I plan on lubricating them this offseason and see if that helps to improve the plyability but others may want to look a this. if they don't reverse then seems likely you are more prone to water getting in.

In other news after several short trips and some in the rain my roof repair seems good and is holding. That is positive. and my brakes are good too.

[336]

My wardrobe slide in the master doing the same thing. Lubed and relubed. Inside and out. Had the dealer try as well when it was at shop for end of season punch list stuff. No luck. Just a bad design. Had tons of calking and roof seals to repair. Was hopeful it would have held up better. They all have their flaws. All in all I'm happy with it.

[cant_remember_ID]

When I winterized this year, I ran an extra length of hose and valve from the intake up behind the water heater and then back to the pump. This allows me to access the water heater bypass and winterizing hose for antifreeze at the same time. Worked well for winterizing, I hope it still works for pumping water, I may have a surprise in the spring.

I've been pretty lucky with other issues. We have some shades that either are falling off or do not stay down, something else to fix in the spring. But at least the shades are much cheaper to replace vs the normal blinds.

I installed a maxxair fan over the kitchen this summer and ran a new power supply from the fuse box for it. I had to remove the bathroom vanity and cut a hole in the back of the front kitchen cabinet to run the wires. I was a little disappointed to see much of the wall material is "load-bearing" Luan. It appears at least half of the screws used to hold on the cabinets only go into the Luan, not the wood framing behind it.

I'm sad it is put away for the winter. Already trying to plan a trip for spring break.

[truth]

Does your TV have a DVD option. I have the same trailer and I would like to install a tv in the bedroom. Thanks

[336]

Going to add the ac in he bedroom this spring. Pretty handy so I think I have it covered. Was going to go with the penguin ii low profile. Do I need 15k not ducted in the bedroom or is 13.5k fine. About $150. Also do I need low profile or can I get away with a similar unit to the rear one. I'm looking at specs and it seems like about 4-6" difference. I saw a similar cougar at the local dealer with a full profile ac up front. Not sure if it was factory or aftermarket. Does anyone have one with a factory installed second ac. What did they come with. Thoughts, concerns ? Also anyone got a lead on a place with cheap ac and free shipping?

[Cabindweller]

336,

I have the second unit installed from the factory. It looks exactly the same as the rear unit but it is a 13.5k. We have been very pleased with the cooling capabilities. I don't think there is any need for a 15k. We stayed in VA last summer and the temp was 97 for a few days. The two units were enough to keep us very comfortable. I've also not had any clearance issues.

[Seven Gable]

Could you measure the height with the factory AC. The dealer indicated that with the factory AC (standard height unit) the 5th would be over 13' tall. There are many local and state 2 lane roads around here with low under passes or bridge clearances. So we asked to have a low profile AC installed by the dealer. We estimated that we would be at about 12'-10" with the low profile but I do not think they measured it. Unfortunately, they were not able to install the low profile unit due to interference with the vent from the bathroom.

My unit is still at camp (truck issues) so I can not measure the distance to the vent but the picture shows what I am talking about. I would guess it is about 12" away. I am also interested in adding an AC. For now we went with a fantastic fan to help with ventilation. It was fine in the mountains in central PA but we will be going to Texas in the summer and I am sure the beach at some time & I would like the AC.

The front of the 5th is to the top of the photo.

[336]

I searched pretty heavily on-line. Also called keystone. As the other poster confirmed they come with a "brisk air 2" 13.5 on the bedroom. I don't think height is an issue. Of course yes it can always be an issue somewhere. But under 14' you are generally ok.
I have the maxxair vent on the bedroom now. Specs say it is 9.3 inches. Brisk air specs are 12.7 inche. So about 3". I don't cut it that close usually. Going with the factory specd unit. $479+about $90 shipping from rvpartscountry.

[PARAPTOR]

Seven gable; Being in a county west of you I understand your concerns. When it looks close I look at those rusty signs on the over passes and wonder If DOT updates these after repaving :eek: I have yet to actually measure mine, with the upgraded tires I am around 13' 5" to top of AC

[Seven Gable]

Paraptor, My previous RV was a TT at 10'-8" so with the new 5ver I have been watching signs lately. There are a lot of them that will be close and a fair amount that would be too low on the shoulder or even in the right lane. I know for a fact that the signs are NOT updated all of the time.

I did several underpass and bridge renovations (as a young structural engineer) back in the 80's and 90's and the DOT (both Illinois and PA) did not care the least about replacing those signs. Most of the time I was brought in to try to increase clearances and those got new signage but I also got involved with some repaving and those may or may not have been corrected. I'm with you on the rusted ones. I do not trust them.

I do not want this to happen: http://11foot8.com/rv-gets-close-shave-11foot8-bridge/

[truth]

Ive had this same issue with my 336bhs. My guess was the issue was from the jacks being fully extended?? What does everyone use for cribbing? Thanks!

[336]

Opened it up yesterday to get ready for the season. First trip to Otter Lake in PA next week. I had ordered the second ac. (Dometic Brisk II 13.5). So with temps in the 70s I tackled the install today. The kit from Rvpartscountry.com came with everything. Really everything. All I needed was a few feet of romex and some wire nuts to go from the junction box in the Cougars ceiling to the box on the ac. Install took most of the day. Getting all the lap sealent off the roof from the vent was prob the worst part. Close second was getting the ac on the roof. Pleased to say no real surprises, not very often that's the case. Something usually requires some type of rigging or persuasion. Only minor problem was the original ducted ac vent in the bedroom was about 1" too close to the space needed for the internal control panel. A mat knife and some careful trimming (old vent now has one flat side) and everything looks great. So buying the unit on sale, shipped, cost me a little over $500. Dealer wanted $1500 and change to do it. Local RV sales place (not Cougar dealer) wanted $900 plus for just the parts. I'm gonna tell the DW see owes me at least $500 maybe more. :lol:

[busterbrown]

Opened it up yesterday to get ready for the season. First trip to Otter Lake in PA next week. I had ordered the second ac. (Dometic Brisk II 13.5). So with temps in the 70s I tackled the install today. The kit from Rvpartscountry.com came with everything. Really everything. All I needed was a few feet of romex and some wire nuts to go from the junction box in the Cougars ceiling to the box on the ac. Install took most of the day. Getting all the lap sealent off the roof from the vent was prob the worst part. Close second was getting the ac on the roof. Pleased to say no real surprises, not very often that's the case. Something usually requires some type of rigging or persuasion. Only minor problem was the original ducted ac vent in the bedroom was about 1" too close to the space needed for the internal control panel. A mat knife and some careful trimming (old vent now has one flat side) and everything looks great. So buying the unit on sale, shipped, cost me a little over $500. Dealer wanted $1500 and change to do it. Local RV sales place (not Cougar dealer) wanted $900 plus for just the parts. I'm gonna tell the DW see owes me at least $500 maybe more. :lol:

Good to hear you "gotter" done without any hiccups and by yourself. I know how difficult and time consuming removing old lap sealent off the roof. Installed a MaxxAir fan on a vent last month and the sealant cleanup part took a few hours. The install, maybe an hour. The dealer quoted me almost $300 to install it based on 2.0 hours of labor. No way on God's creation could they get the whole job done in 2 hours. It took me greater than 4 and I had the wife on the roof tearing up her hands too. At least I know my install was done right and I'm sure you do too. Thanks for sharing.

[Chaz55]

Anyone know what kind of electric awning we have?
I'm currently camping and had an issue. It seems to extent fine but it's sooooo slow in the retract mode. The motor keeps stopping and seems to overheat. Lucky I got it tolled up halfway before the wind took it off by rolling it partly in but I did it by going the wrong way. Now I gotta figure out how to get this thing all the way in for the ride home.
Help!!!

[ctbruce]

Anyone know what kind of electric awning we have?
I'm currently camping and had an issue. It seems to extent fine but it's sooooo slow in the retract mode. The motor keeps stopping and seems to overheat. Lucky I got it tolled up halfway before the wind took it off by rolling it partly in but I did it by going the wrong way. Now I gotta figure out how to get this thing all the way in for the ride home.
Help!!!
Is your battery fully charged?

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[Kennedyrck]

I have a Cougar 336 BHS with the outside kitchen. We've only had it out twice now, and after talking with the dealer their telling me the outside kitchen sink does not have a grey tank. We litterally washed our hands 6 times and the sink is backing up because there is no where for the water to go other than in the 1 1/4" pipe. I'm really kinda mad because I feel as if I've been deceived. There is a drain valve and handle and a sticker that says grey tank, but there isn't one. I was so confused at first, thinking it was plugged or something. But they say that's just the way it is. I think that's completely rediculous. The kitchen is basically a refrigerator that I could take from my garage and plug in at the campsite if I really wanted it and a sink that doesn't drain to anywhere. I might as well just wash my hands at a hose bib. I can't imagine what the itemized cost of the kitchen that we paid for, but it's really nothing. I could have saved myself about 8' of trailer and a lot of money not getting the kitchen. I'm just wondering if there's room for a tank to be added? I could drain into my portable tank or just onto the ground or in a bucket, but that's not the point. Lao I live in California and I'm sure with this Liberal state if I was draining into the ground I would be fined heavily. Has anyone else ran into this problem or others with the unit itself? I'm having issues with the automatic leveling system as well. Supposed to be state of the art system, another costly option that doesn't work. Thanks for listening!

[JRTJH]

That's one of the main reasons we haven't opted for the "outside kitchen". No holding tank on about half the models with that option coupled with the location of the kitchen which makes it difficult to get the "counter height" right when on a sloping campsite were the two reasons we've said no to the upgrade.

As for what to do, there's probably space under your trailer to modify it and install a 20 gallon holding tank, but I'd ask why not just put the "blue tank" on the ground under the dump, connect it with a 6' garden hose and not give it another thought?

From what I can see, at least half, maybe more of the "outside kitchen" sinks drain to a hose connection without a holding tank. It's not just your model, just your brand, just Keystone or just the style of trailer. The lack of a holding tank is an "accepted manufacturing detail" in a very large number of models with the feature. Whether it's "right or wrong," either way, it's an industry wide condition. One reason, as "far fetched" as it may seem is the reluctance to connect a sink used for food preparation to the black tank. With many rear bathroom RV's, that's the closest tank and would/could present sanitary problems if anything should go wrong during use or during towing. Remember, the outside sink is about 3' lower than all the sinks inside the trailer and much closer to the level of the holding tanks and in some models, the sink is actually lower than the top of holding tank would be if installed "normally" just under the RV floor, so it wouldn't drain properly in many applications if a holding tank were installed. Imagine the smells if a venting problem should occur with the tank and that's not even taking any "stopped up tank/overflowing tank" problems into the mix.

[Outback 325BH]

I have a Cougar 336 BHS with the outside kitchen. We've only had it out twice now, and after talking with the dealer their telling me the outside kitchen sink does not have a grey tank. We litterally washed our hands 6 times and the sink is backing up because there is no where for the water to go other than in the 1 1/4" pipe. I'm really kinda mad because I feel as if I've been deceived. There is a drain valve and handle and a sticker that says grey tank, but there isn't one. I was so confused at first, thinking it was plugged or something. But they say that's just the way it is. I think that's completely rediculous. The kitchen is basically a refrigerator that I could take from my garage and plug in at the campsite if I really wanted it and a sink that doesn't drain to anywhere. I might as well just wash my hands at a hose bib. I can't imagine what the itemized cost of the kitchen that we paid for, but it's really nothing. I could have saved myself about 8' of trailer and a lot of money not getting the kitchen. I'm just wondering if there's room for a tank to be added? I could drain into my portable tank or just onto the ground or in a bucket, but that's not the point. Lao I live in California and I'm sure with this Liberal state if I was draining into the ground I would be fined heavily. Has anyone else ran into this problem or others with the unit itself? I'm having issues with the automatic leveling system as well. Supposed to be state of the art system, another costly option that doesn't work. Thanks for listening!



Are you saying your outdoor kitchen sink doesn't drain into your gray tank?

That seems wrong...


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[nellie1289]

there is no tank.

Get one of these and run a hose to your nearest bush. what other than clean water would you be dumping down that sink anyway. There is no tank. Also if you have hookups get a Y for your sewer hose so you can dump them into one single outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1020-5VP-Water-Drain-Adapter/dp/B000HDIBDI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492535000&sr=8-1&keywords=grey+tank+hose+adapter

[336]

Having an issue with the furnace fuse. Have blow the fuse about 4 times. All at night. Noticing some correlation with heat being turned up ( too fast I think, like 5degrees or more). It dosent blow it regularly and it works fine for days on end. So my thinking is it's getting too hot. Maybe too much demand from the DW turning the heat from 64 to 75 right before bed. I know she's crazy and that's not proper operation. But would that cause fuse to blow. Is the safety on overheat to blow the fuse or just shut down and my fuse is a different issue. I thought maybe when it gets hot like that the wires warm up and sag and maybe something grounds out. No other ideas. It's very intermittent. And works fine after I replace the fuse. I've tried to tell her to just do 2 degree adjustments but she's stubborn.

[Desert Diva]

We have the same unit, and my husband has decided that we need a TV in the bedroom.
2 questions: Do you take it down each time you move? Can you easily walk between the bed & the wall now that the TV is taking up a few inches, or do you just go around now? TIA!

[nellie1289]

We have the same unit, and my husband has decided that we need a TV in the bedroom.
2 questions: Do you take it down each time you move? Can you easily walk between the bed & the wall now that the TV is taking up a few inches, or do you just go around now? TIA!

you probably saw my detailed hanging procedures and pics in this thread. I take mine down every time even though I think it would be fine hanging there. it has quick release strings and comes off and goes back on in seconds. see earlier in this thread for a direct link to the bracket I used off amazon. you can easily walk around it on the wall by the way.

[Desert Diva]

We are getting ready for our first big trip in our new rig. Kiddos and I are heading from AZ to Alaska... We usually spend the summers visiting a region of National Parks, but this will be our longest journey (mile wise) I have a question re: security on the Cougar 336bhs
I'm not usually a scaredy cat, or I wouldn't go on my own, but one thing about this unit that I did not notice until our shakeout trip was that there are no usable windows on one entire side of the rig...When I hear a noise at night, I like to take a quick peak, and reassure myself that there is nothing there...Has anyone addressed this issue? I am thinking of perhaps a 'Ring' like camera in the kitchen transom window... or mounting a wireless backup camera on the side of the rig, so that I could view what's out there via my phone. Any other ideas? Anyone do anything different that has worked?
And Yes, I know S&W creates pretty good peace of mind, but we will be driving through Canada, so no guns.

[nellie1289]

Sleep in the bunkhouse? :). Cameras are probably your only option.

[Cabindweller]

We have the same unit, and my husband has decided that we need a TV in the bedroom.
2 questions: Do you take it down each time you move? Can you easily walk between the bed & the wall now that the TV is taking up a few inches, or do you just go around now? TIA!

We leave our 32" hang all the time (including traveling). We've never had an issue. We have no problem walking through with the TV there. Works very well.

I used the same mount as Nellie.

[336]

Added some LED pods under the front for arriving after dark. Usually leave after work so I'm last arriving at our sites. Will help with parking as well as set up and maybe useful messing with the hoses or when I drop a beer under the outside kitchen late at night. Simple set up. Mounted the pods to the floor plate of the front storage. Tucked wires up along side the jacks. Fused connection to battery and mounted a little 12v switch in the lip of the battery box to keep everything neat.