Conformation and a question about Tow Weights

[MBoymer]

Ok so after pouring over the wealth of information that is contained in this forum I have been to the scales and adjusted my hitch accordingly. Would someone mind checking my numbers to make sure my math is correct. Math was always my strong suit, but nobody's perfect. My question is do I leave well enough alone or do I attempt to get my steer axle closer to unhitched weight? Tows and rides like its not even there. I just don't know if it can get better. The numbers are below as well as my calculations. Thanks In advance!!!

Vehicle weight

Steer axle 3100
Drive axle 2480
GW 5580


First scale weight with TT

Steer axle 2960
Drive axle 3460
Trailer axles 5500
Gross Weight 11920

2nd Trip (after adjustment)
Steer axle 3020
Drive axle 3380
Trailer axles 5520
Gross Weight 11920

My calculations are as follows:
Truck 5580
TT 6340
TW 820
TW % 12.9%

Should I bother with the 80 lb difference in the Steer axle or should I let it be?

[Javi]

Me... I'd tweak it a little more.. but I'm an engineer :D

In reality you are "close enough" but it never hurts to try to get closer.."bouncey:

[SteveC7010]

2nd Trip (after adjustment)
Steer axle 3020
Drive axle 3380
Trailer axles 5520
Gross Weight 11920

My calculations are as follows:
Truck 5580
TT 6340
TW 820
TW % 12.9%

Should I bother with the 80 lb difference in the Steer axle or should I let it be?
I'll agree with Javi on this. You've still got 900# added to the rear axle and you've only added 20# to the trailer's axles. Not sure what your WD system is, but one more link or click would help.

One other thing you can do is measure from the ground to the top of the fender openings on the truck, both front and rear, before you hitch up and then each time you adjust the hitch. You really want to avoid having the truck sit nose high. That's an indicator that the balance is off and the front end could unload if you hit the right bump. It also turns your low beams into high beams and your high beams into sky beams. IIRC, ideally, you want the same drop, front and rear, when the trailer is hitched up.

Let us know how it goes.

[MBoymer]

I'll agree with Javi on this. You've still got 900# added to the rear axle and you've only added 20# to the trailer's axles. Not sure what your WD system is, but one more link or click would help.

One other thing you can do is measure from the ground to the top of the fender openings on the truck, both front and rear, before you hitch up and then each time you adjust the hitch. You really want to avoid having the truck sit nose high. That's an indicator that the balance is off and the front end could unload if you hit the right bump. It also turns your low beams into high beams and your high beams into sky beams. IIRC, ideally, you want the same drop, front and rear, when the trailer is hitched up.

Let us know how it goes.
Thanks for the input... I also measured while I was on the scale. Don't have the numbers at the moment but there was some rear end squat (not much) both ways indicate an adjustment so I will tilt the head a little bit more. Taking a trip to the keys for a week and I am leaving tomorrow. Just took a trip to Tennessee and the towing was so-so but already noticed a huge difference with the adjustments. Fwiw, this is my fifth adjustment from the dealer installation... Gotten better every time, but I can't believe I tried to tip the guy. He was so far off that it's amazing that I made it home when we took delivery!

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[MBoymer]

I'll agree with Javi on this. You've still got 900# added to the rear axle and you've only added 20# to the trailer's axles. Not sure what your WD system is, but one more link or click would help.

One other thing you can do is measure from the ground to the top of the fender openings on the truck, both front and rear, before you hitch up and then each time you adjust the hitch. You really want to avoid having the truck sit nose high. That's an indicator that the balance is off and the front end could unload if you hit the right bump. It also turns your low beams into high beams and your high beams into sky beams. IIRC, ideally, you want the same drop, front and rear, when the trailer is hitched up.

Let us know how it goes.
BTW eaz-lift hitch with 1000lb bars and friction antisway bars tows nicely. (looking to squeeze a little more mpg though)

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[MBoymer]

OK after the last adjustment truck has same height wheel wells all the way around (within 1/4 inch) Trip to the keys was as smooth as could be! Definitely towing great but I have not been on a scale as of yet. All 4 wheel wells measure what the front was before loading the trailer.

[bsmith0404]

Sounds like you're pretty close to where you want to be.

[audio1der]

Another trip over the scales wouldn't hurt, but it sure sounds like you've dialed it in.
-You mention you wouldn't mind increasing your MPG a bit; based on what? Expectations? Figures quoted by dealer/friends? The MPG delta from your empty driving mileage?
I'm not being anti-Ford, but even a very advanced twin turbo engine will work hard pulling a large wall behind it. I should think you'd be getting 11 mpg or so at 60mph (Most ST tires are only rated to 65mph max).

[sourdough]

I'm not sure about expecting a lot out of a turbo boosted 223 c.i. (memory) V6 pulling a trailer. Ford has done wonders apparently, by owners comments, with the performance of the Ecoboost, but, a 223 c.i. V6 is a 223 c.i. V6.

My experiences with Ford's turbo'd, intercooled small engines is that they can provide exceptional performance...if they don't self destruct, but the mileage is nothing exceptional. The engine is what it is, and when artificially pumped up to provide exceptional performance numbers, when strapped with a big load.....it becomes an overloaded V6 and the mileage will show that.

[cw3jason]

Totally disagree. Fords performance and numbers with the ecoboost engine are tried and proven since 2011. It is a great engine and puts out more horsepower and torque than most v8's

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[jodrey]

The Ecoboost is a nice small engine to tow a little trailer not a FW.

[MBoymer]

The Ecoboost is a nice small engine to tow a little trailer not a FW.

OK guys... No need to get out the measuring stick. As far as Mpg went I was referring to aerodynamics, as far as the Ecoboost goes (I am a Ford guy) Best truck I have owned! I tow a 32 foot travel trailer that is WELL within both payload and gcvwr with no problems pulling or stopping. I do know that the TT V6 does have better, towing, torque, and fuel economy (unloaded) than the 5.0. I get around 11 @ 60 mph, towing but every little bit helps. I also get 21 Combined mpg unloaded. While my truck MIGHT be able to tow a small 5er, there are no visions of grandeur here. "bouncey:

[fla-gypsy]

It appears you have dialed the seup in about as well as can be done.

[MBoymer]

It appears you have dialed the setup in about as well as can be done.

Thanks, I still need to get to the scales, might be able to get there when we go out for Labor Day. In all reality I just wanted to make sure my numbers were right on the TW, and the TW%. It is my understanding that 10-15% is ok with a preference of 12.5- 13% TW for optimum towing and handling.

[Hideout17]

I have a wdh question. Right now with my TT hooked up at loaded weigt my truck appears level. I weighed it and i need more weight to front. I am using a reese 12k wdh setup with cams. The dealer set it up when i got unit at four,links and said loaded i will need to go to five which i did. I am going to check my ball hite compared to trailer hite and go from there. My ball position is in the highest position on receiver unit with no angle back. Any input or links would ve helpful. All i can find is install not adjustment help.