equal-i-zer near impossible to hitch with more spacer washers

[archer75]

I've towed successfully with the 10k equal-i-zer and my nissan titan. I had it setup perfectly. Then I got a new truck, Ram 2500, and a trailer that sits higher. Now I find it extremely difficult to hitch and unhitch. The more spacer washers I use the more difficult or impossible it is. I currently am using only a single washer and it's still challenging to get the coupler engaged and even more difficult to get it off. I've moved the L bar brackets as far up as I can. The arms are not even remotely parallel to the frame now but it's the only way I can get enough weight distribution without the use of more washers.
I am using the equal-i-zer grease on the hitch ball.

Is there any way to use more washers and make it easier to couple/decouple?

[cw3jason]

More washers tilts the head more, actually applying more pressure to the bars. I believe what you need to do is get a longer drop shank and drop the hitch head down, so your trailer is level again. Your new truck is to tall for the standard drop shank.

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[archer75]

I have a drop shank and the trailer is perfectly level on the current position. Though I did also try the next lower position and it was just as bad.

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[cw3jason]

Maybe you need a longer stroke on your tounge jack. It should lift the truck and trailer up high enough to put the bars on. Try placing some level blocks under the jack to give you extra hight.

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[archer75]

I have no problem getting the bars on. It's getting the coupler to engage. Whatever that thing is called that slides down in under the ball.

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[cw3jason]

Oh. I had to re read your post. Now I get it. I found on my equalizer hitch there was a sweet spot. When uncoupling raise the trailer until the Shank in the tow vehicle receiver centers itself. No pressure on the top or bottom of the shank. Then with the trailer chocked. Let the tow vehicle roll fwd a hair to take any rearward pressure of the ball. Then unlatch the lock and raise the trailer off the ball.. hope this helps and you can envision what I am trying to say.

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[BirchyBoy]

Oh. I had to re read your post. Now I get it. I found on my equalizer hitch there was a sweet spot. When uncoupling raise the trailer until the Shank in the tow vehicle receiver centers itself. No pressure on the top or bottom of the shank. Then with the trailer chocked. Let the tow vehicle roll fwd a hair to take any rearward pressure of the ball. Then unlatch the lock and raise the trailer off the ball.. hope this helps and you can envision what I am trying to say.

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Ditto. I've found that sometimes raising or lowering a bit on the jack helps. When coupling, let the TV roll ahead some.

[archer75]

I found the issue. The truck has to be perfectly aligned with the trailer or it won't couple.
My driveway isn't a rectangle. One side is straight but the other side with the trailer is only straight half way. And then it cuts inward. The trailer sits in the straight part of that section. So typically I have the truck matching the angle of the driveway when hitching up so that it will stay on the driveway. Maybe a 30 degree angle to the trailer
Today I backed it straight up and in so one side of the truck was on the driveway and the other side was sitting in some rocks just off the driveway but this kept the truck straight in relation to the trailer. The driveway does slope down slightly in that direction.

Anyways, it coupled right up super easy.

I'm going to take it for a test drive and see how it rides with the current equal-i-zer settings. Then i'll back it in the middle of the driveway which is flatter and make any more adjustments I need. At it's current settings I appear to have enough weight distribution though the trailer sits very slightly nose down. About a 1/4" - 1/2".

[sourdough]

When I bought my new Ram 2500 I had to install the drop shank, realign the head etc. My hitch works great and I too have about a 1/2" drop in the nose of the trailer....my hitch weight is in excess of a 1000 lbs though.

[cw3jason]

Glad you got it worked out. 1/2 to 1/4 nose low on the trailer is no big deal, and may even improve sway control by putting more weight on the tounge

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[JRTJH]

On most(not all) hitch couplers, there is an adjustment to keep the latch tight, but to allow it to be adjusted so it will couple/uncouple easily.

Here is a picture of a "typical" hitch coupler. Notice the adjusting nut under the latch handle. If you can't uncouple your trailer, you may need to "read up on how to adjust it properly".....

[BirchyBoy]

Glad you got it worked out. 1/2 to 1/4 nose low on the trailer is no big deal, and may even improve sway control by putting more weight on the tounge

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The Equalizer manual says that it should be slightly low in the front. The washers can be used to achieve this once the distribution has been set.

[jamesmc321]

sorry for being a dumbie here, the dealer setup my equallizer last year and i am constantly getting that "front end floating" feeling - assuming its because they set it up for a standard Sierra, not one that has the leveling kit in the front.

So question is, do i add or remove washers on the hitch head to help move weight to the front to push it back down?

thanks in advance

[cw3jason]

Add washers or, and raise L brackets for more weight distribution. This will push your front end down

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[jamesmc321]

Add washers or, and raise L brackets for more weight distribution. This will push your front end down


think there are 4 or 5 washers already (think i read that was the max) so looks like raising L bracket is next -

thank you!

[GaryWT]

Glad you got it to work. When we went from a 150 to a 350 all I did was change the height and lefty everything else the same. Have found my sweet spot to open and sometimes have to move the truck a little to get it too close. We have 4-5 washers and the bars are level. The original set up by the dealer worked for the empty trailer but once loaded, adjustments were made. Good luck.

[archer75]

How critical is it that the bars be parallel to the frame? My bars are not but I have good weight distribution. If I move the L brackets down one notch the bars would be parallel but not have enough weight distribution. I cannot add another spacer washer as the coupler will not latch with 6 washers.

[cw3jason]

Parallel bars are not that important. I had them parallel on my first truck, but once I switched vehicles I found I needed to change the setup. Proper weight distribution and sway control with your trailer level or slightly nose low are the important factors.

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[OurLuckyPenny]

Needless to say, many rv owners would like to see a simpler trailer hitch system than the old standard ball and coupler. Yet, millions of trailer miles are driven each year with this system on all kinds of trailers. You wonder if the problems with trying to hitch/unhitch this kind of hitch is not par of the reason some people switch to a 5th wheel rig.

One concern I have has to do with whether or not it is a good idea to attempt to lift the trailer tongue and back end of the tow vehicle with the trailer screw (or power) tongue jack.

Getting the ball coupler properly adjusted with just the right amount clearance between the coupler and the ball is hard enough without putting all those pounds of torque on the ball and coupler when you use the trailer tongue jack to lift everything.

This is so that you can put the tension bars on the trailer part of the hitch system without having to strain too much. And remember, too, you are warned not to stand in the wrong place while putting the bars in place.

So my question is, would it work and be better to put a bottle jack, for example, under the tow vehicle part of the wdh and lift the hitch assembly with the jack. Instead of using the (inadequate) tongue jack to lift all of this weight?????

Would lifting the hitch assembly this way work in making it easier to put the bars in place?

[JRTJH]

Needless to say, ...
So my question is, would it work and be better to put a bottle jack, for example, under the tow vehicle part of the wdh and lift the hitch assembly with the jack. Instead of using the (inadequate) tongue jack to lift all of this weight?????

Would lifting the hitch assembly this way work in making it easier to put the bars in place?

If you look at my post (#11) in this thread, there is a picture of the "typical" ball coupler. If you "imagine" 2 fingers slipping under the ball to hold it inside the coupler, that's essentially what the adjustment nut "tightens/loosens" when being adjusted. You are correct in assuming that lifting the trailer when hitched to the truck puts a significant amount of the truck's rear axle weight on those "two fingers"..... Can it damage the coupler assembly? Possibly, can it cause it to not couple correctly? Probably.... Would it be "less stress on the coupler fingers to lift the hitch with a bottle jack positioned under the hitch head? Yes it would, but would it be enough less potential to damage the coupler to make it a recommendation? Probably not. The coupler is pretty sturdy and isn't easily damaged, but it can be "tweaked out of adjustment" making it difficult to uncouple (pull the lever to unlock the fingers)... It's a good idea to actually spend some time adjusting the coupler properly and then making sure it's clean and properly lubricated.

As with anything "mechanical" it can malfunction. The chance for a malfunction increases if the "mechanics of the coupler" are ignored repeatedly. Take a few minutes to clean, lube and properly adjust your coupler and you'll find it works much smoother for your efforts. Unfortunately, many RV owners ignore the coupler unless it's either broken or stops working. Seldom does a coupler allow the trailer to separate from the tow vehicle, but many owners have "cussed and fussed a hard to release coupler"..... There's really no need for it to be more difficult than just using two fingers to lift the unlocking lever.

[Ken / Claudia]

Archer. we know you have a sloped driveway, you have not said where you put the leveling bars on it. Without knowing how/where, I would suggest do it while on a flat roadway not slopped surface.

[Tbos]

I had a similar issue last year and using some spray lithium grease in the hitch coupler seemed to help free things up.

[archer75]

Archer. we know you have a sloped driveway, you have not said where you put the leveling bars on it. Without knowing how/where, I would suggest do it while on a flat roadway not slopped surface.

In my driveway. The slope is minor and the bars go on super easy.

[Ken / Claudia]

The manual I have for the WDH and says to check when on a level surface and that's where I would be doing all adjustments and putting on the bars. That way you can rule out slope causing any problems you have. If you did not know about hitching and unhitching at angles and the problems that causes thought, maybe that slope may be a problem you have not thought thru.

[archer75]

But the bars are not the issue here nor have they ever been. It's latching the coupler. The slope is so minor you likely wouldn't notice it without a level. And that's only necessary to ensure proper weight distribution and sway control settings. My issue is latching the coupler. And since coupling and de coupling is done in campgrounds and forests with less than ideal surfaces this is something that should work under those conditions. This issue had been present no matter the surface I have had the trailer on. Even in a level rv park. I've made adjustments to the hitch setup on every trip including on different surfaces.

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[Ken / Claudia]

So the coupler latch is not opening or closing correctly. That means it is binding up some how. If you have the right WHD and adjusted correctly, did you check out Johns information on how to adjust the coupler latch, and lube it. You can cause the coupler to bind up by not having all the tires straight and relived of all side ways pressure. Backing up the tires against a block before uncoupling may cause the same thing. If all the help on here has not helped I would suggest having the trailer dealer service tech or manager look over you set up. Something is wrong.

[archer75]

There is no way to adjust this coupler. I can couple/uncouple when I'm aligned properly and don't have more than 5 washers. With less washers the truck doesn't need to be aligned to the trailer. So the issue comes from angling the hitch head beyond a certain point. The greater the angle the more the latch doesn't have enough room to get under the ball. And I do have to have the ball forward in the coupler to latch properly.
I have spoken with someone who transports trailers for a living and said he sees this often on new trailers but not older ones.

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[archer75]

I should add that my coupler doesn't look anything like the picture. The picture shows the latch being pulled straight up against the ball. My latch slides at a diagonal angle down and in towards the ball. If there's not enough space there it can't slide under the ball.

Did, some reading. My coupler is a thumb latch and not a trigger latch as seen in the posted picture.

[Ken / Claudia]

Without repeating myself, if I was having your problem I would follow the last 2 sentences in post #26. Than enjoy camping. Good Luck.

[Tbos]

I should add that my coupler doesn't look anything like the picture. The picture shows the latch being pulled straight up against the ball. My latch slides at a diagonal angle down and in towards the ball. If there's not enough space there it can't slide under the ball.

Did, some reading. My coupler is a thumb latch and not a trigger latch as seen in the posted picture.


Did you ever get this fixed? They transferred my equalizer setup from a 238ML to my 2810BH same truck and now I have the same issue.

[archer75]

Did you ever get this fixed? They transferred my equalizer setup from a 238ML to my 2810BH same truck and now I have the same issue.


No, the issue persists. No one has been able to solve it. I did get a new truck so at least towing is more pleasurable.

[Tbos]

Have you tried using a spray lube up in and around the coupler. I did that on my previous one and it helped. Haven't tried it on the new one yet. What do you you use to get it unlatched? It took me 15 minutes the other day and it finally unhitched with the truck in neutral and me moving the trailer up and down with the jack.

[archer75]

It's not an issue of lube, though I do use some. It's that the angled ball doesn't allow for any room for the coupler to come down diagonally to get underneath the ball. The greater the angle the less room in the coupler for it to latch.
So what I do is block the wheels on the trailer and pull forward so that the ball is to the front of the coupler and then I can lower the latch down under the ball. It can still take several attempts. With too much angle on the ball there is simply no room for the latch to come down in between the ball and coupler to get under it.

[JRTJH]

This is just a "SWAG", but I wonder if possibly the shank length on your hitch ball isn't quite long enough? (added: I don't mean the screw threads under the hitch assembly, but the distance between the bottom of the actual ball and the base "crown" that sits on top of the drawbar.) I know that all 2 5/16" balls are supposed to have the same distance from the curvature of the ball to the base mount, but when looking at them in the parts department, some seem to have a little longer "rise" between the two ends. While I'm only guessing, I wonder if trying a different ball on your hitch might give your trailer coupler just a little more clearance to ride under the ball? I know the angle of the ball gives the "geometry" of the hitch a shorter or longer contact point, so trying a different ball might either help or at least rule out my "guess" ???

[Tbos]

Thanks. I appreciate the info. As I adjust and work with my hitch it will be helpful.

[archer75]

This is just a "SWAG", but I wonder if possibly the shank length on your hitch ball isn't quite long enough? (added: I don't mean the screw threads under the hitch assembly, but the distance between the bottom of the actual ball and the base "crown" that sits on top of the drawbar.) I know that all 2 5/16" balls are supposed to have the same distance from the curvature of the ball to the base mount, but when looking at them in the parts department, some seem to have a little longer "rise" between the two ends. While I'm only guessing, I wonder if trying a different ball on your hitch might give your trailer coupler just a little more clearance to ride under the ball? I know the angle of the ball gives the "geometry" of the hitch a shorter or longer contact point, so trying a different ball might either help or at least rule out my "guess" ???

That's certainly a good idea. I'm going to look in to it. Thanks!

[JRTJH]

Another consideration is the ball height and angle (washers) used to get enough tension on the distribution bars so the tow vehicle front axle is properly weighted. Two schools of thought are:
1) Use washers/spacers to point the bars downward so they will "load heavier"
2) Use a ball with a longer shank to increase the distance between the trailer coupler and the bars. (which creates similar "tension" on the bars)

Here's three examples of balls that will "increase the distance" between the trailer A frame and the bars. Using the one best suited for your particular situation "should" give you the option of removing spacers and allowing your hitch assembly/trailer ball to sit vertically. That "HOPEFULLY" will allow your trailer coupler to engage under the ball without binding.... GOOD LUCK !!!

ADDED: I have a similar problem hitching my flatbed trailer used to tow my tractor. It also uses a 2 5/16" ball but I don't need a WDH. If I lower the trailer coupler onto the ball and lift the trailer jack completely, I can't close (or open) the coupler fingers that slip under the ball. If, when I'm raising the jack (lowering the hitch coupler onto the ball) I apply pressure to the locking lever, as the trailer lowers onto the ball, about half way down, the fingers will engage under the ball easily. If I miss that "sweet spot" I have to raise the trailer tongue and start over. It has something to do with the way the ball sits in the coupler, but for my purposes, I found a solution that works for my limited use, so I haven't had to resort to researching WDH issues along with the hitch engagement issues. (Hope this helps) :)

[Tbos]

I have a problem with my hitch hitting the place the chains attach. I wonder if using one of these would give enough additional clearance so I wouldn't have to move the chains.

[JRTJH]

It's possible that using a higher ball will give you added clearance for your chains, but along with that comes increased trailer height, leveling issues and weight distribution adjustments. Adding a taller ball may mean your trailer tows "nose high" which isn't a good option, so unless you can lower your WD hitch to keep the ball height/trailer coupler height (as measured from the ground to the top of the ball) close to the same measurement, you may find you've created another problem by solving one....

[Tbos]

Thanks. I had not thought of that yet. It would probably hit me sooner or later.

[theeyres]

Maybe I missed it somewhere in four pages of responses...but have you called Equal-i-zer? When I had one on a former trailer I found them the most responsive of anybody I have ever dealt with. They bent over backwards to solve any issues I had. Give them a call. They will solve your problem.

[archer75]

I have spoken with them. They were unable to resolve my issue. I provided all the information requested and everything they had me do were things I've already done many times.

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[Tbos]

If some adjustments don't fix my issue I'm going to call. Sometimes I miss the obvious. Thanks.

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[Tbos]

This afternoon I went over to the TT to see if I could latch the coupler. I had problems unlatching last week when I brought the new one home. Normally I lower the TT all the way on to the truck before I latch it. This time the only way I could latch it was if I closed it right as weight started to be applied to the hitch ball. Same unlatching. Never had this issue with the old TT. I cleaned and regreased the ball but saw some scoring on the front near the top. Do I need to replace it?http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/30/8dbb477e5387a1b97b598414df923746.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/30/94431fc5b3ec407ad6f0c2ab9ec735d9.jpg

[JRTJH]

Based on your pictures and the number of washers that are installed in your hitch, it "looks to me" like your hitch ball is angled quite a bit. If you can imagine in the drawing I've attached, the ball is angled toward the back of the coupler recess and the hitch ball is "rubbing" on the top of the coupler recess "shoulder". I'd suspect that you may have some "similar but not as bad" scoring along the bottom of the hitch ball where the coupler is rubbing on it at the front of the coupler recess. (there may not be any scoring on the bottom, but likely there's some).

Now, the question becomes: Did the scoring occur with your "old trailer" or with the "new trailer" ??? The hitch ball is the "stronger of the two" so there should be similar scoring inside the coupler recess. I believe (my hunch) that you'll find similar scoring inside the coupler if you get down below it and use a good light to examine it carefully. You will probably have to remove any grease or other lube that you've applied over time. If you don't see any scoring inside the coupler on your new trailer and you have access to it, you might want to see what the inside of the old coupler looks like.....

Now, why does the scoring occur? My guess (and this may be way off base) is because of the "tilted/angled" hitch ball riding on the edge of the coupler recess because of the angle that you're hitched. I "think" that if you don't have any damage/wear on the inside of the coupler and if you purchase a new ball and can get it to a more vertical position, you'll eliminate the scoring.

Keep in mind, this is a "hunch" based on looking at your two pictures and I might well be "WAAAAAY offbase"....

[archer75]

I have the same exact scoring.
You do have a lot of angle on yours. Have you tried moving the L brackets up a notch and removing several washers?

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[Alpine]

Here is a shot in the dark! What in the world could be scoring the "top" of the ball to that extent? Looking at the diagram JRTJH added...I see nothing that should score the top of the ball at any angle!? First thing that I would do is clean the inside of the coupler and run my finger inside looking/feeling for a manufacture defect. Anything up inside that coupler would obviously create difficulty lowering it into a proper position!

Hey, you may be rolling your eyes and shaking your head LOL! :rolleyes: I said it's just a "shot in the dark!

[Tbos]

I'll check inside the coupler for something that could cause the scoring. Since I have only towed the new TT for about 60 miles I'm guessing it's from the old TT. Never had a problem coupling it. This one I do. I'm going to buy the wrenches I need and try removing a washer or two. Equalization is right on the money now. I hope removing a washer or two won't mess it up. L brackets are just about all the way up.

[Tbos]

Based on your pictures and the number of washers that are installed in your hitch, it "looks to me" like your hitch ball is angled quite a bit. If you can imagine in the drawing I've attached, the ball is angled toward the back of the coupler recess and the hitch ball is "rubbing" on the top of the coupler recess "shoulder". I'd suspect that you may have some "similar but not as bad" scoring along the bottom of the hitch ball where the coupler is rubbing on it at the front of the coupler recess. (there may not be any scoring on the bottom, but likely there's some).

Now, the question becomes: Did the scoring occur with your "old trailer" or with the "new trailer" ??? The hitch ball is the "stronger of the two" so there should be similar scoring inside the coupler recess. I believe (my hunch) that you'll find similar scoring inside the coupler if you get down below it and use a good light to examine it carefully. You will probably have to remove any grease or other lube that you've applied over time. If you don't see any scoring inside the coupler on your new trailer and you have access to it, you might want to see what the inside of the old coupler looks like.....

Now, why does the scoring occur? My guess (and this may be way off base) is because of the "tilted/angled" hitch ball riding on the edge of the coupler recess because of the angle that you're hitched. I "think" that if you don't have any damage/wear on the inside of the coupler and if you purchase a new ball and can get it to a more vertical position, you'll eliminate the scoring.

Keep in mind, this is a "hunch" based on looking at your two pictures and I might well be "WAAAAAY offbase"....
I've been thinking about this a lot. With a round hitch ball the only thing I think would keep the coupler from latching should be if the ball is not as far forward and up in the hitch as it should be. With the full tongue weight on the truck it squats quite a bit. That makes the ball have even more of a downward slant. I'm guessing that could be enough to make it not fit properly and cause the coupler to not latch. Coupling right after weight starts to be applied works and then when the Equalization bars are attached everything is at the right heights and angles. Do you agree that if my assumptions are correct it is safe to tow? Do I need to replace that scored hitch ball?

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[JRTJH]

I've been thinking about this a lot. With a round hitch ball the only thing I think would keep the coupler from latching should be if the ball is not as far forward and up in the hitch as it should be. With the full tongue weight on the truck it squats quite a bit. That makes the ball have even more of a downward slant. I'm guessing that could be enough to make it not fit properly and cause the coupler to not latch. Coupling right after weight starts to be applied works and then when the Equalization bars are attached everything is at the right heights and angles. Do you agree that if my assumptions are correct it is safe to tow? Do I need to replace that scored hitch ball?

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I don't think your hitch ball is "unsafe". (ugly but functional)... The "strength" of the hitch ball (when towing the trailer) is in the shank. So long as the shank is not damaged, the hitch ball is OK to use.

That said, you're correct in assuming that the reason you're having issues with locking the coupler is the position of the ball in the coupler socket. As long as the coupler flange isn't stopping the coupler from sitting down onto the ball (hitting the hitch before the ball is completely into the coupler) then the problem is probably something to do with the ball not riding far enough forward, causing the "coupler fingers" to not be able to travel far enough to engage "under the ball"...

I've got the same problem with my flatbed trailer. The coupler latch will "slip under the ball" as weight is being applied, but simply won't latch once the ball is completely inside the coupler. Like you, I think the reason is because the ball "rides" too far "back" in the coupler socket. Whether it's because of "angle" created by washers on the hitch, "slope" created by how the truck/trailer settles due to hitch weight or "mis-match" caused by the ball and coupler "shape" not quite allowing the ball to come to rest in the center of the coupler. For whatever reason, there's difficulty in getting the coupler "fingers" to slide under the ball.

I'd think that if you've found a procedure where you can simplify coupling (as I have also done) and that procedure minimizes your "hassle factor" so that you can "reliably hitch/unhitch" without having to resort to using a hammer or crowbar to get the tow vehicle free at the campground, then you've pretty much solved your dilemma.

Is the scored hitch ball unsafe? Nope, I'd use it, but I'd make sure I keep a good coat of grease on it and watch for further scoring. It shouldn't wear like that and if it doesn't continue, I think you'll be "good to go"...

[Tbos]

JRTH, thanks for your advice. I appreciate you jumping in and helping with this issue.

[JRTJH]

No problem. Enjoy your travels !!!

[Tbos]

Update, I removed a washer and I can couple with no issues. It's uncoupling that's the issue. If I happen to find the sweet spot I can uncouple but it is very difficult to find.

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[mfifield01]

I have the same Equal-i-zer on my 2810bh and had some trouble getting it off. I have found that I can usually get it out at a mid point. Basically where the tongue jack has just touched the ground, but hasn't taken all of the weight off of the ball/hitch. There's definitely a good mid point that works well for me. One other thing is to put the truck in neutral and let the trailer roll into the chocks. This can take tension off of the ball area.

[GaryWT]

If I am paying attention, I will see the handle move slightly, that is my sweet spot. If it does not open up at that point I put the truck in gear and move slightly and then it opens right up. The more you do it, the better you get at it.

[Tbos]

GaryWT, mfifield01,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try it this weekend.