When would you do something about staples in the roof

[trueweb]

A few of the staples on the edge of my roof are backing out. They appear to hold down the rounded cap that creates the smooth transition from the top to the side as they are about 3" to 4" from the side on the top. It's only on one side. I used a rubber mallet to tap them down once and that held for about a month now they are showing again.

I'm thinking of making a small incision at each staple driving a small wood screw next to the staple, pulling the staple, then using eternabond tape over the cut. Imagine a 1" cut with a 3"x3" patch over it at each site.

Anyone ever done this? Thoughts? What did/would you do?

[JRTJH]

If you're still in warranty, I'd get the dealer to do it, if not, then I'd remove the side aluminum molding (probably the rain gutter) and lift the TPO roof away from those areas, pull the staple, install a countersunk wood screw if you think it's needed, and then reinstall the molding with new butyl tape behind it. Seal the top edge of the TPO roof/molding joint with the appropriate sealant and be done with it.

I'd be reluctant to make any slits and the resulting patches in the roofing membrane unless absolutely needed.

ADDED: I just saw that your Raptor is a 2008 model. Since there's no warranty, I'd remove the molding as above.

[cb1000rider]

My only advice from working with boats is to get stainless marine stables - you can usually find them at West Marine. If you get water in the future, they'll hold up much better than traditional.

Post photos if you can.

[chuckster57]

I agree with John. I have been involved in a few warranty repairs where we removed the trim, pulled the roof membrane back and removed foreign material and staples. I wouldn't consider cutting the membrane, as I doubt you would get a good seal after the repair.

[trueweb]

Whew, I think it seems much more scary to pull the entire side rail and lift 12 to 20 feet of roof then stretch it back flat and re-attach the side rail. At least that's the way I see it.

There are already so many holes in the roof material; skylights, ac units, antenna, satellite mount, coaxial cables for satellite, plumbing vents, etc... With those in mind why would 5 or 6 slits, taped and caulked be a greater risk than any of the other openings?

I guess it would be a good idea to pull the side rails/gutters just to make sure they are sealed properly underneath anyway, it's just scary thinking about getting it pulled back and stuck down correctly. Do you have to apply new sticky stuff to keep it "sticking down".

Are there any good videos online that you've seen and would recommend that show this process? Youtube is a great source to search, but I've found as many videos that are bad advice as those that are good.

[sw342]

My 13 is doing the same thing with about 5 staples in one area. Many people have put holes in their roofs from tree limbs or what not and patched up that area and never had a problem again. The fix will depend on how anal you are. Want to do it and make it look factory or just something quicker and less involved? Both ways will last a long time.

Mine have not broken through the roof membrane at this point, so I am not going to do anything except keep an eye on it. Talking to a local repair shop they said to just slit, pull the staple and seal. If the customer demands a perfect looking roof that no one will ever seen, then sure charge them for the time to remove the gutter and lift the roof, etc....Its as easy or complicated($$) as you want to make it.

[trueweb]

Yes, mine too are just visible bumps on the roof, they have not broken through and I imagine it would take a good bit of time for that to happen. It's just annoying to see them when I'm up there at this point. I would like to fix them before they break through.

[chuckster57]

The only issue with cutting the membrane is your probably at the corner and trying to get eternabond tape to lay flat isn't an easy task. Look at my signature, it will tell you how I know.

[trueweb]

The only issue with cutting the membrane is your probably at the corner and trying to get eternabond tape to lay flat isn't an easy task. Look at my signature, it will tell you how I know.

Chuckster57, they are actually on the top, there is a rounded "corner" that has about a 4" diameter, so it's a very mild corner. It appears to be some sort of plastic or metal material that is actually under the roof membrane to give the smooth round effect. The staples that are coming up are the ones that would hold the edge on the flat top part of the support down to the roof. They are easily 4-6" away from the actual side of the RV on the flat part of the roof. It's #18 in the attached image.

[cw3jason]

I had the same problem on my previous trailer (SOB). If your outside of warranty, and I was. I would just let them be. No sense cutting holes in the roof. If they ever do poke thru, then you can pull them out and repair, but I wouldn't create a hole in the roof just to repair.

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[chuckster57]

Being on the flat part does make it easier to deal with it your going to cut and tape.

My concern all along is making any more holes that need patching.

[Mr30RLI]

Folks

My Cougar has the same thing going on. They push down so I'm thinking that they are short staples that missed the mark during assembly. I could go into a QC rant but will resist since I suspect we all know that story.

My plan is to keep a close eye and if any cut through to do the cut and patch routine.

If anyone does go this route it would be nice to see what those staples look like.

Frank

[cathcartww]

I have a similar problem with out Outback .... and the staples seem to be pretty long. There are a half a dozen or so staples that have been working their way out, and are pushing against the underside of the roof membrane. They are mostly above the long slideout, so I assume this area must flex a little more than the rest of the roof. I have been watching them from roof check to roof check, and they are to the point now that I think I should take care of them ....

My plan is to clean the area around the staple with mineral spirits, then carefully slit the membrane with a razor knife right over the staple. I will then remove the offending staple, and replace it with a stainless steel screw of the same length. I then plan to shoot a big dab of adhesive sealant - I will probably use 3M Marine 5200 since I have it laying around - and push the membrane back into place. I will then follow up with a 2-3" patch of Eternabond tape.

Since these are on a nice flat area, I am pretty sure I can get a good seal.

Anybody have a better idea?

[SteveC7010]

I think you are on the right track for this repair. The only thing I would add would be to seal the edges of the eternabond patch with Dicor Self-Leveling caulk. (If you have a different membrane, then use whatever self-leveling caulk that manufacturer recommends.) Alternatively, if you have some of the manufacturer's roof paint on hand, then using that in place of the self-leveling would be a good choice, too.

[cw3jason]

Just tap them back down with a rubber mallet. Don't cut your roof if you don't have to. If the staple does break thru, then patch as previously stated

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[chuckster57]

Just tap them back down with a rubber mallet. Don't cut your roof if you don't have to. If the staple does break thru, then patch as previously stated

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If your going that route, I would use a block so your not directly impacting the staple. Spreading the "blunt force" may allow the membrane to stay intact.