Waste Valves unreachable

[JoePoke]

On our new 26RBI Trailer the waste valve handles are not user friendly. They are way up under and behind the lower skirt. Has anyone figured out a way to add an offset extension so they can be seen and reached without standing on your head?

[chuckster57]

The T handles are threaded on, so you can readily get extensions at any RV parts store.

[JoePoke]

I have done that on other RVs however I would need to cut the skirt off about 6 inches higher than it is now to extend them straight out. When open the handles are close to the inside of the skirt, when closed they are just very difficult to reach.

[Festus2]

I believe a couple of members have fashioned a home-made "pull" that has a couple of hooks at the end of a rod/short pole. They use this to reach in, "grab" the handle and pull. Would something like this work for you??

[GaryWT]

I use to use a pole with a bend on the end, similar to a fire poker that I was able reach under to get to the handles.

[JRTJH]

My dump valves are also on the frame rail under the skirting and difficult to reach as well as being very awkward to pull. I cut a hole in the skirting and installed an access door. Now all I have to do is open the door, the handles are "right there". Easy to access, easy to operate and still out of the way when not being used. There's nothing to "store" or to "find" when I'm ready to dump.

The door cost about $30 and installation took about an hour. The "hardest part" was getting up the courage to make the cutout in my new Cougar.

[GmaPaTime]

Nice idea John :)
I just might have to do this myself as the handles are quite a pain to operate and this is an easy fix.

Steve

[14george]

My dump valves are also on the frame rail under the skirting and difficult to reach as well as being very awkward to pull. I cut a hole in the skirting and installed an access door. Now all I have to do is open the door, the handles are "right there". Easy to access, easy to operate and still out of the way when not being used. There's nothing to "store" or to "find" when I'm ready to dump.

The door cost about $30 and installation took about an hour. The "hardest part" was getting up the courage to make the cutout in my new Cougar.

Looks like a factory job great job

[theallde]

John - That is a great idea - off to the RV shop to purchase the access doors.(tx)

[JRTJH]

I'm not sure how much an RV dealership would charge for the door, but I bought mine at Amazon for $26.00 with free shipping (Prime). Here's the link to the door I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGK1Z2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[GmaPaTime]

Amazon also has one that is a little larger (6"x11") made by JR Products for $43. Since we have the three valve setup, I'm thinking of using this one.

[JRTJH]

The only reason I didn't go with the larger door is that it folds down and I was concerned that if I happened to push against it, the hinge may break. The one I did use opens to the side so the hinge is out of the way and not as likely to be damaged. That's just my thought, I'm sure either door will serve the purpose. With 3 valves, a larger door would probably be a better choice.

[GmaPaTime]

Good point John, does your door not open 180 deg. ? If it doesn't, then yes, I would not want that either.

Steve

[JRTJH]

Yes, it does open 180 degrees and when open, it is supported by the trailer skirting so it can't "bend the hinge further". On the door that opens to the bottom, the way the door has to be installed, there isn't any skirting behind the open door, so it can "bend the hinge further" and possibly snap the door off. If you look at the picture of my installation, you'll see that there is only about 2.5" below the door flange.

Also, the door can't be installed higher on the skirting. If you look at the first picture, there is a steel bulkhead that I had to cut the plastic mounting flange to fit. If you install the door any higher and the actual door opening would be reduced too much and access would be limited even more.

With care when opening and using the door, I'm sure the fold down door would work, but when it is open, you'd have to be really careful not to push against it since there would be nothing behind it to stop it from breaking the hinge.

[GmaPaTime]

Thanks for that info. I thought it should open 180 and I did notice the steel bulkhead cutout.

What I'm thinking about is trying to install it with the hinge on top and with a magnetic catch installed to keep it open. I can see it breaking if hinge is on bottom like you say. The only issue with my approach is putting holes to attached the magnet into the fiberglass.

Steve

[JRTJH]

Epoxy/JBWeld ??? Take a close look at whether or not the door will open fully with the hinge on top. There's that screw strip that separates the skirting from the fiberglass. On mine, it's about 5/8" higher than the walls, so anything that opens up wouldn't be able to lay flush against the fiberglass sidewall.

[GmaPaTime]

Same on ours but thinking the magnet comes out about the same distance and yes I could just epoxy the magnet to the side.

I'll let you know how I make out when I do it and provide some photos. (tx)

[JoePoke]

John:

I think you have a great solution. Funny that this morning as I was driving to a meeting, I thought why not just grab a hole saw a cut two 5" holes so I could reach in to the valves. But your solution is much more elegant.

Joe

[auwingrider]

what a great idea. I have a 2017 carbon 347 and its still an issue. looks like its time to cut a hole in the side.

[Tinner12002]

I found 2 doors on ebay that were actually water fill doors with locks. I cut the backs off of them and installed in side skirting on mine also. I think they were around $12 each.