Move Medicine Cabinet

[77vetter]

I am a tall guy so I would like to move the bathroom medicine cabinet up as close to the ceiling as possible. Not moving horizontally, just want to move it up.

I tried removing every visible screw but it seems to be attached from behind or something? I was able to get the right side free, but the left side seemed to be attached or possibly glued? I didnt want to pry too hard and break something but would really like to get it moved up if possible.

Has anyone moved their medicine cabinet and is it glued or what could be holding it to the wall after all screws were removed?

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_170084_0_8c7a0996986b0bba60e41d618d63c344.jpg

[PDMarlowe]

We just purchased a used Outback and I have the same issue. 9 visible screws holding it in. Did you ever get this done and if so, do you have some hints for me?

[hankpage]

This is a 4 year old thread and it doesn't seem as if he has been back to it since.
But to answer your question .... Many are glued with a "Liquid Nails" type adhesive and removing without damage to ether the wall or the cabinet is difficult but not impossible. Patients and something thin to get behind should help but don't expect to have a clean wall behind it. You will have to have something on that wall to hide the marks. JM2¢, Hank

[PDMarlowe]

Thanks hankpage.

This proves what is great about a forum like this. I can come up with a question tied to a 4 year old original post and someone like you cares enough to post a reply.

We will be back out in the Outback in a couple of weeks and I will give it a shot. I'll post again after I pull the screws and see what happens. I have plenty of thing trim tools and may even take a hair dryer along to see of that might help.

I may not have the height issue that 77vetter did, being just 5'10" but when washing my face I do like having it a little closer to the sink than the medicine cabinet will allow unless I put a permanent dent in my forehead.

[Snoking]

Take a thin fish line or wire and at the top left and both left start a sawing action between the cabinet and wall. See if you meet resistance from glue.

You might want to leave in a couple screws on the right side to keep it from failing.

Chris

[chuckster57]

A word of caution on “sawing” any interior wall. I’ve seen wiring and plumbing vents in some very odd places. Your better off using a new razor blade and working it between the cabinet and the wall.

[Snoking]

A word of caution on “sawing” any interior wall. I’ve seen wiring and plumbing vents in some very odd places. Your better off using a new razor blade and working it between the cabinet and the wall.

The line or wire is not going to go into the wall. It is just moved back and forth between the wall and cabinet.

[chuckster57]

Guess I read it wrong. We always use a very thin blade and once it starts pulling free we continue “working” the edge. I have removed lots of stuff without damage to the wall this way. It’s not fast but it saves having to order/replace panels.

[Snoking]

Guess I read it wrong. We always use a very thin blade and once it starts pulling free we continue “working” the edge. I have removed lots of stuff without damage to the wall this way. It’s not fast but it saves having to order/replace panels.

Looks like the shower stall might make it hard to use tools along the left side.

[PDMarlowe]

Thanks all.

The picture on the original post isn't mine, but that of 77vetter.

Mine is a mirror image (2011 Outback 260FL) with the shower on the right and the wall on the left. I like the "sawing" idea. I have used dental floss for that type of action several times with pretty good success. Like Snoking says, it is tight. I will try this if it doesn't come down when I remove the screws, and probably start at the top and work my way down. I can put a couple of screws in at the bottom to keep it from crashing down.