tha brakes :)

[Pulln]

All, as always that you for your feedback and mentoring. I am considering replacing the rotors and pads on the fronts pretty soon for my 08 F250 SD 6.4l Crew Cab Long Bed FX4 to say it is a big truck is an understatement an we tow a big campers and it is my wish to be able to continue to stop the camper and truck when I wish it or need to.


I just installed the AirLift 5000 Ultimate on my pickup to help with the sag.So the next issue is braking and I am sincerely hoping you all might be able to point me to a better than oem rotor and pad replacement that doesnt require new calipers for oversized brakes.

Should I stick with the OEM pads and rotors or look for some improved aftermarket kits?

Best Regards,
Noah

[Festus2]

If, when you apply your brakes, and the trailer is not "stopping when you want it to" then you might first want to examine your TT brakes to see if they are set properly.

Are you wanting to replace the truck's pads and rotors because they are worn or just as a precautionary measure? Have you taken them into a brake shop to see how much life you have on them?

As long as the TT and the TV brakes are okay, you shouldn't have any issues safely stopping where and when you want to. I don't see any need to replace your brakes unless they are showing signs of needing replacing soon.

[Pulln]

for he moment things seem well. I plan on having the brakes measured and if the come up close I would like to look at OE and aftermarket replacements.

[chuckster57]

If the OEM brakes are doing the job then I wouldn't switch. And you don't have to replace rotors each time you replace pads.

[Pulln]

If the OEM brakes are doing the job then I wouldn't switch. And you don't have to replace rotors each time you replace pads.

if there is any uneven wear and they end up needing to turn them should I go for new or just go with the turning?

[chuckster57]

I wont install "turned" rotors. Out here (west coast), its been my experience that more often than not the shop you take the rotors to will turn them to "minimum thickness" on first try and not just enough to remove any defects.

IMO when you need as much material as possible to dissipate heat, full thickness rotors are the way to go. I have had excellent results using "brake best" and "Wagner" products from O'Reilly's Auto Parts.

[JRTJH]

I agree with Chuckster. In recent years (all the SuperDuty years) due to weight reduction, Ford has cut out as much material as possible everywhere in the vehicle lineup to save weight and meet the CAFE restrictions. Because of that, the Ford Service Manager at every dealership I've done business with has strongly suggested not turning rotors. They all have said that even "IF" they can get them turned, they will be at the very minimum thickness and will warp easily. Once the warping starts, you might as well just go ahead and replace them. So, why pay to turn them and then replace them in a few miles?

The cost to buy new rotors isn't that much greater than turning the old ones and then paying labor to replace them again a few months later. Might as well just bite the bullet and do it the first time and be done with it.

[Desert185]

Yeah, never turn rotors.

For the OP: Check www.summitracing.com for some options with decent pricing for the quality, free shipping and probably no tax.

[byrdr1]

Just me but last time I pushed my front brakes to the limit. I replaced the rotors. They were not reall y all that much more than the turned rotors. The dealer even said with your truck I would not turn the rotors. he and his dad both have f-350s and he pulls a 5er and race car trailer. So replace them away. this poast week I also installed new shocks on my truck I can tell a different. So I got new shoes last fall and new legs this spring. your model truck should have much larger rotors than mine and mine stops on a dime(when not towing then more like a dollar)
randy

[Pulln]

I am definitely not a turn the rotor kind of guy in fact I replaced my wifes rotors last august on her 03 Altima not sure why but they recently warped so I removed the rotors and pads just two days ago. I think this is why i decided to ask you all about this because I don't want to be in this spot with my truck in a few months.

I've seen all sorts of "performance" pads and rotors that use various materials, drilled, slotted etc. Should just buy the Ford OE parts or is there really an advantage to gussied up parts?

Thanks again for chiming in yall.

[Hansel]

My diesel guy has had the best luck using OEM, so that's what we used on my truck.

[Pulln]

This is my first truck and camper so I havent had a chance to compare or go though many experiences yet but that in itself is probably a testament to the equipment thats on the truck now. I bought it used and am not sure if any brake work was previously done but I know the wheels and tires are aftermarket.

I am still open to learning about pros/cons of oe and aftermarket but this weekend I am going to remove a front wheel to see if I can tell what is installed.

[chuckster57]

Chances are your not going to know if the pads are OEM or aftermarket. The rotors may have a P/N molded on them, on the inside near the minimum thickness info. You'll have to remove the caliper to pull the rotor off.

[sourdough]

I think OEM parts are probably the way to go. Getting the rotors from a dealership would be good but expensive. The last set of rotors I bought from NAPA didn't leave me feeling warm and fuzzy just looking at them. They didn't give me any trouble but they were on my modified 4x4 and didn't see hard use.

Drilled and slotted are good in high performance applications but I would worry about their rate of wear pulling a large trailer. There are all kinds of aftermarket pads and I've tried several different kinds but don't know that I noticed a lot of difference between them (the new ones - they all improve performance over worn out pads).

[Desert185]

I am definitely not a turn the rotor kind of guy in fact I replaced my wifes rotors last august on her 03 Altima not sure why but they recently warped so I removed the rotors and pads just two days ago. I think this is why i decided to ask you all about this because I don't want to be in this spot with my truck in a few months.

I've seen all sorts of "performance" pads and rotors that use various materials, drilled, slotted etc. Should just buy the Ford OE parts or is there really an advantage to gussied up parts?

Thanks again for chiming in yall.

One of the reasons rotors warp, resulting in a pulsing brake pedal, is that the tire shops may not torque the wheels properly. I'm not a fan of torque sticks/extensions or using an impact wrench to tighten the lugnuts. They should be torqued with a torque wrench. Its also a good idea to check the lugnuts after 50-100 miles of driving. Once rechecked, the torque tends to stabilize. Trailer lugnuts are a different story, though.

With regard to rotors, when indoubt use OE, but be careful with aftermarket OE. Some of it is just not up to standard.

Drilled rotors may have their place in certain applications, but usually not for the street/towing. Plain or slotted or dimpled would be my choice.

I have had good luck with reputable brand, semi-metallic pads on heavy duty applications and Akebono ceramic pads on grocery getters/soccer transporters. My wife has them on her Volvo XC70 with upgraded slotted rotors from IPD. No dust. No squeal. Good performance in semi-spirited mountain driving.

I use Wilwood non-drilled rotors and semi-metallic pads on my Pro Tour suspended El Camino, but that's another animal.

The TV is just stock OE so far, and works well.

I use Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 fluid (not to be confused with DOT 5) flushed every two years.

Stay away from Midas or similar outfits, in my opinion. If you can, do the research on parts and do the work yourself. Avoid cheap. Use real OE or proven, properly planned upgrade items for your specific application and don't let the brake fluid go for years without flushing.

[Pulln]

One of the reasons rotors warp, resulting in a pulsing brake pedal, is that the tire shops may not torque the wheels properly. I'm not a fan of torque sticks/extensions or using an impact wrench to tighten the lugnuts. They should be torqued with a torque wrench. Its also a good idea to check the lugnuts after 50-100 miles of driving. Once rechecked, the torque tends to stabilize. Trailer lugnuts are a different story, though.

With regard to rotors, when indoubt use OE, but be careful with aftermarket OE. Some of it is just not up to standard.

Drilled rotors may have their place in certain applications, but usually not for the street/towing. Plain or slotted or dimpled would be my choice.

I have had good luck with reputable brand, semi-metallic pads on heavy duty applications and Akebono ceramic pads on grocery getters/soccer transporters. My wife has them on her Volvo XC70 with upgraded slotted rotors from IPD. No dust. No squeal. Good performance in semi-spirited mountain driving.

I use Wilwood non-drilled rotors and semi-metallic pads on my Pro Tour suspended El Camino, but that's another animal.

The TV is just stock OE so far, and works well.

I use Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 fluid (not to be confused with DOT 5) flushed every two years.

Stay away from Midas or similar outfits, in my opinion. If you can, do the research on parts and do the work yourself. Avoid cheap. Use real OE or proven, properly planned upgrade items for your specific application and don't let the brake fluid go for years without flushing.

Thanks for passing on the info and experience. I may just get the ford OE replacements and call it a day but will look at wilwood as well.

[Desert185]

Once you look at Wilwood, you will realize that maybe their products are overkill for your TV purpose. :)

www.summitracing.com should have a lot of options that might work for you if you do your own work.

[notanlines]

There a number of OEM Ford parts places online to buy what Ford put on. Remember, there is a reason that Ford and NAPA best pads are $89 and AutoZone lifetime cheapies are $29.