tow vehicles

[albertr]

When I hook up my truck is going to be 500 to 600 lbs overweight. What do you guys think? Should I be concerned? Thanks...Al

[2011 keystone]

If that is 5 to 600 over dry weight then yes

[albertr]

What I am saying is that the max payload on my truck will be exceeded by about 600 lbs....Will that cause problems in your opinion? Thanks...Al

[hankpage]

When I hook up my truck is going to be 500 to 600 lbs overweight. What do you guys think? Should I be concerned? Thanks...Al

I would be. You didn't mention what your payload is. If you have a ½ ton, you could be 50% overloaded, especially on tires and brakes.
Are you talking about hitch weight or GCVW?????

[albertr]

My truck is a 2005 dodge cummins 2500HD. Payload is approx 2500 lbs.

[hankpage]

My truck is a 2005 dodge cummins 2500HD. Payload is approx 2500 lbs.

Your curb weight (2WD LB) is 3987 rear .. payload 2385 ... adding another 600 lbs. to that will most likely overload your rear axle rating of 6010 lbs. if you are not including fuel, passengers and misc. even more than your 600 lb estimate.

[Jim W]

My truck is a 2005 dodge cummins 2500HD. Payload is approx 2500 lbs.

To answer your question correctly, I would need more information on what truck you have and trailer. Such as is this a regular cab or quad cab and a ST or a SLT? Is this a manual transmission or auto,4X4,what gear set 3:73 or 4:10's?
I do not worry too much about payload, to me this is an arbitrary number that is derive by subtracting the Curb weight of truck from the Gross Vehicle Weight. And this is used to tell you how much a load the truck will haul not what it will tow.

What I watch and am concerned with is the combined gross vehicle weights and the axle weights of the truck and trailer.

A 2500HD,CTD has a gross combine weight rating of 20,000 LBS and front axle weight of (depending on if it is an SLT) 4750 LBS and rear axle weight of 6,010 LBS for a 2005 Dodge.

For you to truly know what you have and to feel that you can safely tow this combination. You must know the individual weights of the truck and then the trailer. You will then weight them hitch together. Only then will you know what you are towing and do you feel safe towing this load with your truck.

This should include you, your wife, truck fully fueled and all of the gear that you carry in the truck. The trailer should be fully loaded as you travel, food clothing, and all of the gear for living in the trailer. Water should be included also if you travel with the water tank full.

Our opinions do not matter, they are just that opinions.
This is just my $0.02.
Jim W.

[albertr]

Jim....My truck is a 2005 Dodge 2500HD Cummins, Quad cab. Short box SLT 3.73 gear Ratio. The 5th wheel has an advertised 10,600 dry weight. Pin weight is 2050lbs according to spec. I have not weighed truck and trailer yet but will do so in about 10 days when we leave the RV Park....Al

[albertr]

Truck is 4X2...Al

[Jim W]

Al,
Thanks for the response.
I have added the Dodge BodyBuilders.Com, Technical information sheet on the 05, 2500HD truck. This page will list your weights as far as shipping, GCVW and all Gross axle weights. This will also list the max towing trailer weight for your truck. This is derived from the Combine gross vehicle weight of 20,000 LBS-6,481 LBS of the truck weight (This includes the driver weight of 150 lbs and all tanks full). So to have the actual trailer towing weight you will need to add your wife's weight, hitch weight and anything else that you carry in the truck. Now subtract this from the 20,000 lbs and this will be the max trailer weight.
Pin Weight would be added to the truck also but this is subtracted from the trailer weight. So you can not go over the 20,000 GCVW and the GAWR for your truck.
PM me if you have any more questions.
http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2005sbbgl/docs/dr/mlup.pdf
Jim W.

[kenn209]

So I weighed our rig and I was aout 3k under the GCVWR, but I'm over the GVWR by about 300 or so lbs. and everything we add to the rig it grows more. We are also under the axle weights as well so is being over the GVWR okay or do I need to upgrade...

Looking at a 2007 3500 DRW (6.7) 4WD.... very nice....

[Jim W]

So I weighed our rig and I was aout 3k under the GCVWR, but I'm over the GVWR by about 300 or so lbs. and everything we add to the rig it grows more. We are also under the axle weights as well so is being over the GVWR okay or do I need to upgrade...

Looking at a 2007 3500 DRW (6.7) 4WD.... very nice....

Ken,
These are my scaled weights on my 318SAB Cougar and 2500HD Mega Cab.
Front axle = 4,940 LBS, Rear Axle = 5,160 LBS, Trailer Axles = 8,140 LBS with a Gross Weight = 18,240 LBS. As you can see, I too am over my GVW rating of 9,000 LBS. I do not worry about this weight, as I have not exceeded the axle rating nor tire/wheel ratings of the Dodge 2500HD. My truck also sits level with the camper connected to the truck, without the assistance of helper springs and or air bags. I have placed a level in the bed to insure that I am level.
The only advantages I see in a 6.7L DRW Dodge for you is. If you decide to pull a larger 5er in the future. In the 14,000 LBS to 15,000 lbs range then you will have the truck already for this size. The other advantage is the exhaust brake and the 68RFE auto transmission in the never vehicle over the 5.9L.
With the 7.5 MY truck, I would insure that all of the flashes to the software has been done by the dealer and the emission equipment is working correctly. Such as the DPF and Catalysis and NOX filters along with the EGR system.
JIM W.

[Handysam]

I agree with Jim. I too am over my GVW by about 600lbs. It's those darn Mega Cabs with the extra curb weight. I don't worry about that either, however I am going to add air bags. All of my other weights are good and I ride level. The 6.7 engine and six speed tranny is a great combo for towing our fiver. I also think the exhaust break is the best thing since sliced bread. I've read where a lot of people have added the exhaust break on the 5.9's. My truck is my daily driver and a DRW would not be practical in the city. There are a couple of things I would like to add to my truck besides the air bags, like a better exhaust, cold air box, gauges for tranny temp,egt and boost, some cab lights, fender flares,spray in liner, better shocks, nav system.......OH.. hi honey.............I got to go now....................

[kenn209]

Thanks, I guess I will stick with this truck, and add a exhaust brake, I haven't told her how much they are!! lol Overhead guages would be nice. Have the spray in liner already, came with it. Got the air bags last year, Was a nice and easy mod to the truck. Smoothed out the ride a little.

[Jim W]

Ken,
Good luck with the install of the exhaust brake. A side benefit of the aftermarket exhaust brake is, you also get an on board air compressor. This can be use to inflate tires and such.
I also have gauges installed in my truck on the RH "A" pillar. They are EGT's, Boost and Transmission temperature, been in the truck since new. I told the DW they were needed to monitor the engine vitals when pulling a 5er.
Jim W.

[kenn209]

Got the approval for gauges, not sure if I want the pillar mount or not. I like the handle there. Might go with dash mount.. Also looking at the banks exhaust brake, wow they aren't cheap!!

[hankpage]

Got the approval for gauges, not sure if I want the pillar mount or not. I like the handle there. Might go with dash mount.. Also looking at the banks exhaust brake, wow they aren't cheap!!

You may be able to use a pillar mount from a SRT10 with the gauge and handle.
http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/45858/2155224210047821328S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2155224210047821328IASMiR)

[Handysam]

Ken you might also check out the Pacbreak for your exhaust break. On the Dodge forums it seems to be a favorite on the 5.9's. Will you talk my wife about the gauges and stress how important they are, like if I don't get them soon we can't camp anymore. It will do detrimental damage to the fuel axle rods:D

[GMcKenzie]

Ken you might also check out the Pacbreak for your exhaust break. On the Dodge forums it seems to be a favorite on the 5.9's. Will you talk my wife about the gauges and stress how important they are, like if I don't get them soon we can't camp anymore. It will do detrimental damage to the fuel axle rods:D


Give me her number and I'll try.

I'm a big fan of a pyrometer for these trucks when towing. After adding one to my old 6.5 GM (yeah, yeah, I know) I never realized how hot my turbo was getting and had to change driving habits. Even with my current truck I could get to 1400F if the warning didn't come on (1250) while towing up some of the hills in BC.

And if you are getting gauges, you should probably get one that includes a chip, just to be safe :O

[kenn209]

Ken you might also check out the Pacbreak for your exhaust break. On the Dodge forums it seems to be a favorite on the 5.9's. Will you talk my wife about the gauges and stress how important they are, like if I don't get them soon we can't camp anymore. It will do detrimental damage to the fuel axle rods:D

Just explain to her how expensive it is to replace the tranny! Turbo, etc. lol What else? Not sure why the kit I'm buying has boost. Wouldn't fuel pressure be better to watch than boost? Just asking cause I have no idea... So it has tranny temp, pryo and boost. A little nervouse about drilling and tapping for the sending unit pre-turbo.

Thanks

[Handysam]

Make sure you do the pre turbo. If you go to the different dodge diesel forums there are some great tips and instructions with pics. Let me know how it goes. Sam

[Jim W]

Just explain to her how expensive it is to replace the tranny! Turbo, etc. lol What else? Not sure why the kit I'm buying has boost. Wouldn't fuel pressure be better to watch than boost? Just asking cause I have no idea... So it has tranny temp, pryo and boost. A little nervouse about drilling and tapping for the sending unit pre-turbo.

Thanks

Ken,
Here are two links on how to install the EGT probe from Diesel Truck Resource. You do not need to be a member to see the pictures, like some other forums require. The first thread does not have pictures but it concerns a 5.9L engine. The second thread has a photo on page two, but it is the 6.7L engine.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/egt-probe-t285997.html?&highlight=drilling+turbo

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/6-7-pyro-install-t244037.html?&highlight=drilling+turbo

I feel that a Fuel pressure gage is required if you are making big power and pumping more fuel then stock, that is required with over size injectors. Or if you have a first gen or second gen truck that is stock. The fuel pump in the tank on these trucks have had issues delivering fuel. To the different style fuel pumps on the engine that Dodge has offered on those model of trucks.
On the third gen trucks especially after 05, the stock fuel pump in the fuel tank has been very reliable in deliver of fuel to the CP3 engine mounted fuel pump. So to me a fuel pressure gage is a nice thing to have but not necessary with your truck
Just my $0.02
Jim W.

[kenn209]

Thanks Jim, Just wanting to make sure I get the right gauges. Tranny temp is mandatory as well as pyro. Not sure if I need the boost gauge, could just stick with the 2 gauge pod

[GMcKenzie]

Thanks Jim, Just wanting to make sure I get the right gauges. Tranny temp is mandatory as well as pyro. Not sure if I need the boost gauge, could just stick with the 2 gauge pod

I think boost is a good to have. Not as important as pyro, but still good to keep an eye on.

My gauge reads the boost from the OBD port, which is not the best but I'm not making much extra power and am not more more than stock boost so it's fine. If you are modding, you want a real boost gauge that measures manifold pressure directly, not from the computer.

[Jim W]

The reason for the BOOST Gage is, so you do not lift your cylinder heads when pulling a heavy load and going up hill on a long 7% grade. As the truck is working hard to pull this load up the hill.
I have a programmer on my truck a "Smarty S67ME", and I am running about 60 HP over stock. I watch my BOOST all the time to make sure I do not build over 30PSI in BOOST pressure. This way I ensure that I do not lift the cylinder head and fail the head gasket. Do to high boost pressure that is pushing air into the cyliders. Even on a level road when starting from a stop I am up near 30PSI and then drop down to 15 or 20 PSI in BOOST pressure as I move down the road.
Jim W.

[kenn209]

Just explain to her how expensive it is to replace the tranny! Turbo, etc. lol What else? Not sure why the kit I'm buying has boost. Wouldn't fuel pressure be better to watch than boost? Just asking cause I have no idea... So it has tranny temp, pryo and boost. A little nervouse about drilling and tapping for the sending unit pre-turbo.

Thanks

What about a Edge CTD monitor? I still have to drill and tap the pyro, but everything else comes from the OBDII port. Anyone running one of these?