Backflow check valves for the shower

[Campy]

Anybody know where to get them? We are getting scalded by the shower when you turn off the water at the shower head. When you turn the water back on it's screaming hot for about 15 to 20 seconds. I was told that there needs to be backflow check valves in the supply lines but I'm not sure where to find them. Internet searching turns up a few but I don't know if that's them or not.

[GaryWT]

Not sure where to get them but I just point the water away for a couple seconds until the water is back to temp.

[chuckster57]

Back flow valve will be at the "out" side of the hot water heater. I have always done the same, just point it away for a few seconds.

[Road-King]

I'm looking at doing this as well. Our problem is cold water for the first 15 seconds. My camper is in storage so I have been delaying this project until we get ready to head out the first time this year.

From what I have read on line, get two 1/2 inch shark bite check valves from Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace or any hardware store (Should be about $15-$16 each). Cut the hot and cold feeder lines to the shower mix valve. Insert one valve on each line with the arrow on the check valve pointing toward the shower mix valve.

I would double check your feeder pipe size before you get your check valves to make sure you get the right size.

[Pmedic4]

We have the opposite problem, as our shower has cold water when you turn the shower off at the shower head. I understood this was because they setup the water heater winterizing bypass with only one valve?

I've considered doing the 2 valve fix, but doesn't seem to be that big of an issue - however, does someone have a diagram of where the valves would need to be placed? And more importantly, does it solve the problem?:o brrrr!


HEY Road-king, you beat me by 2 minutes!!!!

[Road-King]

http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/04/12/rv-shower-hot-water-supply-check-valves

[Campy]

Hey Road-King, thanks for finding that "mod my rv" article. That's exactly what I was looking for to cure the problem.

[glenalt]

Thanks for the great idea. I usually just turn it away too but this fix seems pretty easy.

[HappyCamperMN]

I'll have to see how easy that mod would be to install on our trailer.

[Javi]

It's probably just as easy and about the same cost to re-plumb the water heater with three cut-off valves.. and you don't have the issue of water trapped above the backflow valve.

[denverpilot]

It's probably just as easy and about the same cost to re-plumb the water heater with three cut-off valves.. and you don't have the issue of water trapped above the backflow valve.


Water above the check valve will be impossible to get out to winterize the rig, come wintertime, without blowing the lines out with air, and some water will probably still be trapped in the mix valve or lines leading to it.

[Campy]

Not an issue if you pump RV antifreeze through the system....

[Javi]

Not an issue if you pump RV antifreeze through the system....

You are 100% correct Campy, but folks down here don't usually pump anti-freeze through the system. Most of us just blow the lines out cause we winterize 5 or six times a year. I know I do, because we often camp during the winter but have periods of temperatures in the low 20's and upper teens for a few days at a time.

[Gumpster]

What about changing the shower valve out to a new anti scald valve..
required in all new homes now........:confused:

[Campy]

What about changing the shower valve out to a new anti scald valve..
required in all new homes now........:confused:

The newer valves used in homes is not the same issue that campers have. Homes just limit the mixing function so the temp can not be turned up too hot. The camper issue is backflow (either hot or cold) because we "shut off" the flow at the shower head valve and the pressure will equalize one way or the other, then when you turn the flow back on you get blasted with either really hot or really cold water.