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Iresqu
03-08-2015, 01:14 PM
Camping season is almost here and I want to know what you all do to change a flat on the road. Specifically What kind of equipment do you use/recommend to get that flat tire off the ground? Thanks

chuckster57
03-08-2015, 01:29 PM
I use the truck jack, and have a 4 way lug wrench in the basement. Hate to admit it, but I've learned how to do it quickly with my previous rig.

And Welcome to the Forum!!

14george
03-08-2015, 02:55 PM
Got a flat when I got to the campground used truck jack could use leveling blocks too

Iresqu
03-08-2015, 03:30 PM
Thanks for the input. Are you placing the jack under the axle or the frame?

Trailertrash
03-08-2015, 03:41 PM
I make my wife get under the trailer and bench press it. Seems impossible but she is a big lady.

chuckster57
03-08-2015, 04:37 PM
Thanks for the input. Are you placing the jack under the axle or the frame?

I place it under the axle at the bottom side of the spring perch.

gearhead
03-08-2015, 05:25 PM
http://www.walmart.com/ip/29764300?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227021475517&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838468072&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78652005632&veh=sem

audio1der
03-15-2015, 09:01 PM
After using a large floor jack with a very high reach and a couple chunks of 2x4 not get the trailer high enough to raise the other wheel, I piledmy 14 Lynx levellers into a ramp. That wasn't high enough.
This season I am buying a stout bottle jack, a piece of 2x6 and the Lynx levellers. I'm confident that will do the trick.

Larry1013
03-16-2015, 02:21 AM
I carry a battery operated impact wrench along with long handle 1/2? drive rachet. Mine happens to be the Craftsman C3 19.2v with a lithium battery.

I also use the impact wrench to set the scissor jacks when I am leveling the trailer.

I have a few pair of the Harbor Freight mechanic gloves also to help handle the dirty tire and protect hands if the tire is hot.

natedog_37
03-16-2015, 05:16 AM
I bought this

http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3600-Ultimate-Trailer-Trailers/dp/B00LMJ50FI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426511779&sr=1-1&keywords=Andersen+3600+-+Ultimate+Trailer+Gear+Duffel+Bag+for+Trailers%2C+ Campers+and+RV%27s


One of them is for changing the tire.

trucker LOU
03-16-2015, 03:06 PM
Hey, whatever you choose try it out at home before to make sure everything works together. Then put all the stuff in the trailer.----Lou----

Barbell
03-16-2015, 08:14 PM
Never had the pleasure YET. We have a torque wrench to check the lug nuts torque before a trip to loosen and a 4 way once they are loose. Dexter says do not jack on the axle. Have the truck jack and a number of blocks so can jack on the frame. The other option is to use the 6 way leveling system to get the tire off the ground. We were told when we bought this fiver that tires were good for two years only regardless of mileage. So far have not had to change one on the road.

hemisareslow
03-17-2015, 06:56 AM
I had a set of heavy duty plastic ramps that I used to change the oil in my truck...since I've put a lift kit in my truck I no longer need the ramps at home and keep one in the camper....by putting the not flat tire on the same side as the flat tire up on the ramp the flat tire is more than enough off the ground to change and you don't have to monkey with a jack and blocking....just be sure to loosen the lugs before putting it on the ramp if you don't have a cordless impact gun

PARAPTOR
04-02-2015, 08:35 AM
http://www.walmart.com/ip/29764300?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227021475517&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838468072&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78652005632&veh=sem

Just had a chance to use my new Trailer AID Plus, DO NOT ask why :eek: (see today post on MAXXIS). Tried using it on my Tandem axle RAPTOR, well about an inch short. Story of my LIFE :banghead:

Used a bottle jack to raise axle more, I guess could have put board under it but did not want to chance the trailer aid plus sliding on it :eek:

PARAPTOR
04-03-2015, 02:31 PM
Okay played around with the Trailer Aid Plus which did not work on the Raptor. Looked closer at the trailer Aid markings on actual unit indicates TRAILER AID, looked at box it clearly identified TRAILER AID PLUS so I tried it. Backed on to it with the RAPTOR. Nope that did not work just smashed :eek: the box identified as TRAILER AID Plus. After playing around with it I have concluded that the plus actually should read "PLUS BOTTLE JACK"

Tried TRAILER AID PLUS BOTTLE JACK and was able to get wheel off the ground. Guess going to need a TRAILER AID PLUS + with at least two pieces of that black rubber type material. CONCLUSION: Stored TRAILER AID with my BOTTLE JACK. After this experience think I will go back to using the phone first (GOOD SAM Roadside Service):D

JRTJH
04-03-2015, 03:14 PM
Yup, That's why I always strongly recommend that anyone who hasn't yet changed a tire on the side of the road to go through the procedure in the driveway. What you may "think will work" could be "woefully inadequate" once you get stranded with no way to get extra tools. Remember that just because you can get the "flat tire" high enough to get it off the trailer doesn't mean that the axle is high enough to install a fully inflated tire.

Don't forget that breaking loose rusty lug nuts can be a pain unless you've got a breaker bar or at least a 3' section of steel pipe to slip over the end of your lug wrench.

Pull Toy
04-03-2015, 03:40 PM
Triple A (AAA) RV Plus, make it their problem.

Had a blow out on my 16k toy hauler a few years ago on a really ugly shoulder. AAA said "commercial salver", I said "3A RV" guess who won?

BEST $ever spent!!!

cathcartww
04-03-2015, 04:09 PM
I have a nice sturdy bottle jack and assorted wood blocks - I refer to jack on the frame to avoid any chance of damage to the axle. I have a 4 spoke lug wrench and carry a cheap electric impact wrench (but that doesn't work without AC power). We lost a China Bomb on I-95 near Stuart, FL, in February, but since I was nursing a broken ankle, we called AAA. They were there in 20 minutes, and had it changed and were out of there quickly. Might not be so fast in a less populated area.

JRTJH
04-03-2015, 04:11 PM
There are some places in the southwest, the mountains, the "hill country" and also in the "piney woods" where AAA, Good Sam and Commercial services simply won't respond. If they are available, great, but for those times when "you shouldn't leave home without it".... There's always (no wait, Master Card won't work either out there)....... and, don't even try the "dirt road to Alaska"... They won't "come runnin" even if you could get them to answer on your smart phone.......

LaTundra
04-16-2015, 04:02 AM
AAA left me stranded on the side of the road with a busted radiator hose. After being put on hold hold for 20 minutes, they told me "we don't go out that far".:confused:
I switched over to Allstate Roadside, they call local mechanics.:D

grampscamper
04-16-2015, 04:38 AM
I carry a torque wrench, bottle jack, jack stands, 4 way wrench, 1/2 inch socket set, various blocks of wood, work gloves and a 12 volt Viair compressor. I use a TPMS and have RV roadside assistance. I also carry a folding pad to kneel on.
Maybe a little overkill but I like to be prepared.

OurLuckyPenny
04-16-2015, 08:41 AM
My question is, which way is better to jack your rig up with---the frame or the axle?

I know it says in the owners manual to jack on the frame. And to quote a couple of contributors to this thread: Barbell: Dexter says not to jack on the axle. Have the truck jack and a number of blocks so can jack on the frame. And: CathCartww: I prefer to jack on the frame to avoid any chance of damage to the axle.

Is it possible that jacking on the axle is not such a bad idea? Does it really damage the axle to jack the rig up on it? For example, on my Cougar 21rbs it it guite a long distance from the frame to the ground; so like CDathCartww says above, you need a pretty good stack of blocks to raise your jack high enough to raise the rig. Then, too, raising the rig by the frame will tend to hyper-extend the axle and springs, making it necessary to raise the rig higher than normal to raise the tires off the ground. Jacking the rig in either way is bound to have a twisting or torque-ing effect on the frame of your rig, no? And there have been some examples on the Forum of broken/damaged frames on various rigs.

Which brings up another question: Is the frame on the XLite tt's and 5ers of lighter construction than on the regular rigs? Just how much twisting of the frame can an XLite rv take? The higher you raise the rv, the more twist you put on the frame.

Some haudraulic jacks come with a v-shaped or cupped flange to fit the axle of a vehicle. Such a jack should help prevent the jack from slipping off the axle as you raise the rv. And jacking on the axle will allow you to eliminate that pile of (wobbly) blocks that you must place the jack on when you jack from the frame.

I recently jacked up my Cougar 21rbs to place blocks under the tires which were sitting on dirt. It took only one 2x8 block laying flat on the ground under my large haudraulic jack under the axle to raise each wheel.

My question is (sorry for the long-winded dissertation), does it really harm the rv axle to jack up the rv via the axle rather than the frame?

Sure would like some expert opinion on this question. Thanks!

notanlines
04-16-2015, 09:45 AM
I will stick with jacking on the plate where the springs are attached to the axle. It is less stress on the axle than going down a curb. If one is jacking on the frame, not only is it necessary to first jack high enough to clear the spring tension, THEN it is necessary to jack high enough to get the new tire in position.

JRTJH
04-16-2015, 11:36 AM
^^^ what he said. Like Jim, I jack my trailers on the U-bolts that secure the axles to the springs. I use a 2x6 block under the U-bolt, place the jack under the wooden block and jack the axle high enough so the tire clears the ground.

I also am concerned with trying to lift the frame rail which is about 24" above the ground another 10" (or more) to get the tire that same distance off the ground. In my experience (haven't had too many flats, but I do rotate my tires every year) it seems much safer to jack the axle 4" than to jack the frame 10"+. So far, I've never damaged an axle and the U-bolts haven't been damaged, scraped, scuffed, nor have they ever "screamed" the word "abuse".

To me is just doesn't seem practical to try to jack something 36"+ off the ground when I can effectively do the same thing with 4" of movement. If you look at the way the axles are secured to the springs, it's my impression that the road shock from hitting a pothole or even from a bumpy road in a campground would put more stress on the axle (at the point of attachment) than the static load of lifting it 4" while the trailer is not in motion.

Others may have a different opinion, but that's my "take on jacking"

jsmith948
04-16-2015, 03:02 PM
Have to agree with John and others. I think the Dexter prohibition on jacking under the axle stems from their liability phobia. Probably the result of some yahoo at a tire shop putting a floor jack under the middle of the axle and lifting both sides at once thus destroying the axle/alignment. As long as you place the jack directly under where the axle attaches to the spring, and using a block of wood as John described, there is no way you could damage the axle. Think about it - that axle is designed to carry the weight of the trailer and the wheel bearing the load is bolted to the hub at least 8" outboard of the spring. Drove/owned/operated semi's for millions of miles. ALWAYS jacked under the u-bolts - loaded and empty. MUCH safer than lifting the frame 2 or 3 feet into the air to get the tire off the ground. Just sayin':)

Western Traveler
04-24-2015, 10:57 PM
My question is, which way is better to jack your rig up with---the frame or the axle?

I know it says in the owners manual to jack on the frame.

Which brings up another question: Is the frame on the XLite tt's and 5ers of lighter construction than on the regular rigs? Just how much twisting of the frame can an XLite rv take? The higher you raise the rv, the more twist you put on the frame.

I recently jacked up my Cougar 21rbs to place blocks under the tires which were sitting on dirt. It took only one 2x8 block laying flat on the ground under my large haudraulic jack under the axle to raise each wheel.

My question is (sorry for the long-winded dissertation), does it really harm the rv axle to jack up the rv via the axle rather than the frame?

Sure would like some expert opinion on this question. Thanks!

We have a 21RBSWE and last week I used a Trailer Aid Plus to lift all four wheels off the ground one at a time to adjust the brakes and lube the bearings. Just towed 1300 miles this week back home from SoCal. The Trailer Aid Plus had plenty of lift even with the spread axles. I do still carry 2 bottle jacks, an impact wrench and generator along with a cheater bar and compressor.
I admit I carried the Trailer Aid last year without trying it but I can't believe I went so many years without one.
BTW I watched the installer at Discount Tire Center lift my trailer with 4 floor jacks at once using the axles. I asked him if that was common and he said all day every day and they do a lot of toys coming out of SoCal doing the desert runs. Love the new Maxxis tires!

jje1960
04-25-2015, 04:49 AM
http://www.walmart.com/ip/29764300?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227021475517&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838468072&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78652005632&veh=sem

X2 With this post, used it last weekend to grease the axle bearings in the driveway.

Desert185
04-25-2015, 08:19 PM
Jacking on the frame can be a difficult proposition, especially if on the side of the road on soft gravel or dirt when the trailer is not level. When jacking on the spring u-bolts with a bottle jack you are only compressing the spring enough to raise the tire off the ground...you are not raising or supporting the trailer by doing this.

I have roadside service, but I think being capable of safely changing a tire while on a road trip is a capability everyone should have in the event it becomes the only reasonable option given your location.

Pappydude
05-02-2015, 08:57 AM
I've used the trailer aid - on a hill, on an inside curve. I had no trouble with the exchange - my problem came later when I realized the steel belt had literally shredded the copper tubing to my refer, furnace and stove. All three were on a "T" for lack of a better description. Steel belt didn't damage the trailer, but cost me $450 to repair the copper tubing. ('03 23' Komfot) FORTUNATELY the gas wasn't on!!!

RavensFan24
06-12-2015, 06:45 AM
On my old trailer, I got lots of practice with changing tires. At first I was unprepared, now I can get a flat and be back on the road in 15 minutes.

I carry a truck jack with me and 4x6 blocks of wood that are sectioned in 1 and 2ft pieces. I stack the wood high enough so the jack will reach the frame and have plenty of room to get the trailer high enough to get a new tire on. I learned this trick from the Florida Road Rangers after I got a flat tire and was in a spot where I was on grass and there was no way my jack would reach. A concrete block would shatter from the weight and well...I was pretty much screwed. From that point on I made sure I ALWAYS had plenty of wood in the truck and a jack AND I made sure the spare tire was always filled with air at the same PSI as the other tires, so I didn't put it on and blow that one out too.

Good luck to anyone stuck in this situation. Every time I see a trailer on the side of the road with a blown out tire, I feel that person's pain.

Williston324
06-18-2015, 03:56 PM
First blow out two weeks ago. Luckily happened just before a government rest area so we limped in. It was raining so called Good Sam. 30 mins later and still on the phone because she couldn't determine my location??? Gave up and changed it myself in 15 mins. 10T bottle jack, heavy duty torque wrench and wood blocking all stored together for quick and easy access. Heading out again in a few days on a last minute decision so ended up purchasing GY Marathons because of their availabilty. Hope they last a few years. This snowbird season we're staying in one spot in FL so won't be putting all the mileage on that we did the last two winters.

ReadyToRoll
06-19-2015, 09:42 AM
Had to change my first "China Bomb" this spring. One other thing to add to the equation, Road safety flairs or triangles. Where I had the blowout, the shoulder was quite narrow and even after getting to the right as far as possible, was barely 2' off the lane. You would be "AMAZED" at how many, and a lot of times large trucks, seem to get as close as possible when passing. Luckily, this time, the flat was on the shoulder side. Would have been a real fright to have had to changed it on the left side. That said, sure would have liked to had a reflective triangle to set out a couple hundred feet behind me. Didn't have one then but bought a real nice one yesterday at Walmart that was large and heavy enough that I doubt would be blown over by traffic or high winds. A semi sure will rock your world when it passes about 2' from your trailer. Make sure that you use chalks tightly set on both sides of your tires. Even 1' of movement has the potential to uncenter the jack from the axle. PS. also bought a pair of 4 ton aluminum jack stands that I also use. Feel more safe anyway.

notanlines
06-20-2015, 02:41 PM
Let me jump in just to give our OTR drivers a little pat on the back. We travel about 40K a year, some with the Raptor, some with our 16ft motorcycle trailer. Almost invariably when someone is broken down alongside the road it will be the tractor/trailer rigs moving over to the next lane to "give 'em a break" and the four wheelers blowing by close enough to lift your skirt (One shouldn't change a tire in a skirt anyway, especially if you're a man):D

Barbell
06-21-2015, 10:28 AM
Most if not all states now have laws requiring you to either slow down or pull to the other lane when passing an emergency vehicle on the shoulder. Nearly all truckers now pull to the other lane when passing anything stopped on the shoulder, emergency vehicle or not. You never know when some one is going to open a door or walk around the left side of that stopped vehicle.

jtyphoid
06-21-2015, 12:39 PM
(One shouldn't change a tire in a skirt anyway, especially if you're a man):D

Would a kilt be okay? With what many wear beneath their kilts, maybe not... [emoji33]

Pull Toy
06-26-2015, 10:53 AM
We got really lucky yesterday hauling home from Maine to Connecticut. We were just north of Boston on I-95 when a car pulled up along side, and signaled that we had a problem in back.

I dropped into the Granny Lane with my 4 ways on and limped into a wide spot in the shoulder less than a quarter mile from the car's signaling us. On this part of 95 the average shoulder is probably 8' to 10'. The place we landed was at least 15' wide, and long enough to safely maneuver.

I just had enough time to hop out to inspect the rig, and discover a left front axle blowout on the 5'er, when here comes the Good Samaritan Patrol Vehicle complete with Strobe lights and help.

We broke loose the lugs nuts, and used my 6 point Lippert System to lift the rig enough to put the spare on, after chocking, and unhooking the TV. Total time, probably about 20 minutes! Best news of all... no damage to the rig or the wheel.

It all went so smoothly that I figure my GOOD LUCK is about all used up for a long while!

LaTundra
06-26-2015, 03:33 PM
You may want to consider a TPMS for your rig. It would have warned you immediately of your flat tire.

USS Mars AFS-1, 68-70
USS Saratoga CVA 60, 70-71:cool:

Pull Toy
06-27-2015, 04:45 AM
Good idea.

Thanks for the input.

gearhead
06-27-2015, 06:56 AM
I don't like the idea of the trailer teetering on stacked wood. The ground gives, an 18 wheeler blows by, etc.; too many chances for someone getting hurt. The Trailer Aid Plus with a 1" x 6" under it lifts my 16" tires high enough.
But I do carry 2 bottle jacks and an assortment of wood.

audio1der
06-29-2015, 06:18 PM
You may want to consider a TPMS for your rig. It would have warned you immediately of your flat tire.

USS Mars AFS-1, 68-70
USS Saratoga CVA 60, 70-71:cool:

Not only does it warn you of low/high pressure but also high temps in case you have a dragging brake. The cost of the system is far less than even a "cheap" fix to the bodywork of a trailer IMO. I LOVE our TST507 setup, and wouldn't even trust our awesome new Kuhmos without it. You just never know.

LaTundra
06-30-2015, 04:34 AM
Not only does it warn you of low/high pressure but also high temps in case you have a dragging brake. The cost of the system is far less than even a "cheap" fix to the bodywork of a trailer IMO. I LOVE our TST507 setup, and wouldn't even trust our awesome new Kuhmos without it. You just never know.

What he said times 2"bouncey:

dirt33
07-02-2015, 09:16 AM
I have been contemplating buying the Trailer Aid Plus. I have a Keystone Bullet with spread axles, and I really didn't feel that the 5.5" height of the Trailer Aid Plus was going to be enough, so I just haven't pulled the trigger on getting it.

Last night while strolling through Walmart, I came upon a pair of Rhino automotive ramps. For $44, you get two ramps (Trailer Aid is one ramp for the same money or more). Rhino ramp height is 7" on the top surface.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoRamps-Black/19526658

Just tried it out. The ramp itself is not quite enough, as the rear tire still sits just barely on the ground. With a 1x10 board placed on top of the ramp, it was just right. So, what I have learned is that I will make something to extend my ramp by 1 more inch, and I will be in business. I have also learned that the Trailer Aid Plus would indeed have not been suitable for my application. Given that you get two Rhino ramps for the same money or less, I guess I can't see why anyone would want to buy the (shorter) Trailer Aid.

Photos below, I didn't take the photos from a low enough angle, so they don't really show the difference in the rear tire as far as being on the ground versus off the ground. (top photo wheel is on the ground, bottom photo it spins and could easily be removed/replaced). But, mainly just wanted to show these photos and share my experience for anyone else with axles spread this far apart.... The Trailer Aid Plus will likely not do the trick for you.

http://i59.tinypic.com/o7n2h2.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/10mvkp5.jpg

TomHaycraft
07-03-2015, 02:47 AM
I have been contemplating buying the Trailer Aid Plus. I have a Keystone Bullet with spread axles, and I really didn't feel that the 5.5" height of the Trailer Aid Plus was going to be enough, so I just haven't pulled the trigger on getting it.

Last night while strolling through Walmart, I came upon a pair of Rhino automotive ramps. For $44, you get two ramps (Trailer Aid is one ramp for the same money or more). Rhino ramp height is 7" on the top surface.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoRamps-Black/19526658

Thanks for the post! I too have spread axles on my Springdale, but also (already!) own a pair of the Rhino ramps. Hadn't considered the possibility of using one of those. I keep a bottle jack in the trailer, but will consider throwing in a ramp.

Safe travels.

cw3jason
07-03-2015, 05:53 AM
I have used the rhino ramps on the wide secure stance axles. It works great. I always threw one in the back of the truck before travel.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

siberian
07-05-2015, 11:25 PM
http://www.walmart.com/ip/29764300?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227021475517&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838468072&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78652005632&veh=sem

Bought one at NAPA, 5.5 inches is not enough to raise it when I shredded the tire and scorched the rim as the suspension will sag. Am working on a solution to raise it the extra 3 inches it needs.

siberian

dirt33
07-06-2015, 08:43 AM
Thanks for the post! I too have spread axles on my Springdale, but also (already!) own a pair of the Rhino ramps. Hadn't considered the possibility of using one of those. I keep a bottle jack in the trailer, but will consider throwing in a ramp.

Safe travels.

I was actually pretty surprised when I stumbled upon the Rhino ramps in WalMart last week. I had been looking the Trailer Aid Plus over and over, and knew that, while it is a good product, I plain and simple needed something a couple inches taller. When I measured the Rhino height at 7", and saw the $44 price for the set, it was an absolute no brainer for me...

I will use one of the Lynx Leveler pads placed on top of the Rhino ramp to change a tire if needed. I have tried that combination out and it worked perfectly. After using the Rhino ramps to change the truck oil yesterday (as opposed to lugging a 3 ton floor jack and jack stands out like I used to), and using the Rhino ramps to power wash the mower deck, I am very happy to have purchased the Rhino ramps instead of the Trailer Aid Plus. I usually get pretty "in a hurry" to buy something when I think that it is needed. I am very glad that I waited awhile on this situation, and did not buy the Trailer Aid, as it would be virtually useless to me.

LaTundra
07-06-2015, 12:55 PM
Just came back from WalMart with my new Rhino Ramps. Out in the parking lot, some old timer(about my age) said "looks like somebody is in for some hard work". I said " no, this is for my camper. When I get a flat, instead of crawling under with a bottle jack, I'm gonna use these to pull one wheel up to lift the other". He looked at me with astonishment and said "that's a great idea, I'll go get me a set!". So, thanks for the idea, with my new TST507 TPMS and Rhino ramp, my trip to Yellowstone will be less worrysome.(tx)

bsmith0404
07-06-2015, 01:03 PM
I have a set of Rhino ramps, haven't tried using them on the RV yet, I carry a bottle jack with me in my tool box. I will say I like the ramps, but they are worthless for trying to change oil on a new Camaro, they slide or kick out. The only reason I still have them is I waiting to try them out on my older corvette, but maybe I found a new use for them when I am doing maintenance on the RV wheel bearings.

Larry1013
07-07-2015, 02:17 AM
I bought the Camco Trailer Aid PLUS. It has the extra lift added to the Camco Trailer Aid to get the second tire off the ground. Fortunately the Ford F350 I have has a 3 ton bottle jack as the include truck jack when purchased, if needed.

Do have a good used TireMinder TPMS for sale in the for sale section if anyone is interested. Includes everything for a 4 tire setup, receiver, senders and transmitter, etc.

jsm180
07-08-2015, 09:26 AM
I bought the Rhino ramps and just tried them out, they are going back. My 5th weighs 7200 lbs empty and it started to collapse the ramp. If you read the fine print on the label, they are rated for 3000 lbs each. The 12000 lb number is the gross vehicle weight provided both ramps are used to only lift one side or one end. Best to try them out in the driveway before launching off. They also sunk about an inch in the grass/sand here in Fl.

dirt33
07-16-2015, 12:53 PM
Well, the Rhino ramp got put to quick use. Owned the ramps 8 days, and had a blowout near Tulsa. Worked great, I put one Lynx leveler pad on top of it and pulled up on, and my buddy had the tire changed just about as quick as I could get out of the truck and walk back there.

Looks like I "had a feeling" at just about the right time regarding the China bombs on the trailer.... Two weeks ago on Thursday, just all at once I knew that I needed to get to Walmart and get these ramps, prior to setting out on a trip. I really can't believe that I went 11 months or so without the ramps. I guess I would have fished out the truck jack and some wooden blocks if I would have ran into trouble before getting these ramps.

barchak
07-17-2015, 08:43 AM
Just had a blow out on I-65 about 60 miles North of Nashville. It took me about 45 minutes to break the lug nuts free. I carry a cordless impact driver with me, but did not have a 13/16 socket. Just ran out of time before the trip.

I used the Anderson Rapid Jack to get the axle up. I was able to get the blown tire off with no trouble, however I was not able to get the spare onto the axle. The Rapid Jack was less than an inch short at its maximum.

I think two things caused the problem. First, the weight of the trailer (9k) and second the Rapid Jack is narrower than the tire. These two things combined causing me to be painfully short on the height. The Rapid Jack push into and compressed the good tire therefore reducing the overall "jack" height.

I then had to call Good Sam and it took them about 75 minutes to locate a service provider. They showed up about an hour later. All told I lost about almost 5 hours and we were sitting on the highway in an unsafe condition for about 4 hours. Not good.

The tow truck operator jacked up the trailer using a bottle jack under the axle. I thought you were not supposed to do it that way. The manual states to place the jack on the frame just beside where the leaf spring is attached. What he did worked well and got me off the road quickly.

I have since acquired a 12 ton bottle jack and a 13/16 impact socket for my cordless impact driver. Next time, I will be ready!

When using a Jack, where do you all jack the trailer, axle of frame? If you use the frame, what do you use?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

notanlines
07-17-2015, 11:02 AM
Barchak, I feel like we're neighbors. We are longtime Germantown people.....In the real world, most people jack their trailers by putting the jack (whatever kind) under the plate that holds the springs together directly behind the tire. It generally has the ends of the u-bolts that hold the springs together. This is normally safer than trying to jack a trailer by the frame. You can also safely jack on the very, very end of the round axle, directly adjacent to the springs. Dexter and their associates recommend you jack on the frame because there will be a number of people who jack directly on the axle in the middle of the trailer, thereby bending it in the middle. If you jack on the frame you will be lifting an enormous amount of weight as opposed to the end of one axle.

slow
07-17-2015, 11:35 AM
.................I used the Anderson Rapid Jack to get the axle up. I was able to get the blown tire off with no trouble, however I was not able to get the spare onto the axle. The Rapid Jack was less than an inch short at its maximum...........

I used my rapid jack to adjust my brakes a few weeks ago and quickly learned that I needed to carry a couple of extra boards to be able to get the last 1 inch of height I needed, just as you experienced. Too bad Anderson did not make the Rapid Jack that 1 inch higher.

I may keep an eye out for some 1+ inch thick rubber to replace the 1/4 thick piece that comes with the jack to avoid having to use the rapid jack with the thin rubber and boards.

LaTundra
09-26-2015, 06:07 AM
On our trip to Yellowstone, had a blowout in the Texas Panhandle. Pulled over, pulled out the Rhino Ramp, two young Texans stopped and helped. They loosened the lugs, I backed up the rear tire onto the ràmp, they changed the tire, and we were off in 15 minutes. Didn't have to crawl under the trailer with a bottle jack and block of wood(which I had with me). Found a tire store in Stratford (?). Did the same with the ramp, the tire tech was quite impressed!
Bottle Jack ? I don need no stinkin bottle jack!:cool: