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View Full Version : Brand new 5er, and lots of questions


Pocketlake1
01-25-2015, 11:52 AM
Here some of our questions-
When you turn on the AC unit (living rm), how many amps should it draw? We realize that once it is on the amps will back down, but in the start up cycle how amps are required?

Without knowing the make of the A/C and its output in BTU's, it's hard to provide you with an answer. A 4000W generator will be able to handle at least one A/C without any problems and perhaps two - depending upon how many other heavy draw items you may have on at the same time (water heater, microwave, etc.) After the A/C starts up, the amperage required drops, as you pointed out, to around 10-12 amps - depending upon a number of factors: outside ambient temperature, make/model, altitude, etc.)

chuckster57
01-25-2015, 12:53 PM
I will answer what I can. hopefully someone else can add.

We read about a disc for the hitch, and greasing the hitch and kingpin. Then read about just using WD 40, what are we suppose to use and where are we suppose to use it relating to the hitch?
It's called a lube plate. its a flat silicon disk that fits over your kingpin and rides between the two surfaces. With it you DO NOT use any grease on the hitch...One of the best things since sliced bread, and you can get them readily.

The TV works great with the antenna, however when I tried to play a DVD it only plays in black & white, any thought on what might be the problem? Our is equipped with a component cable not a HDMI cable, could that be the problem?

Make sure the cables are plugged into the component inputs and not the three "color" (Y,Pb, Pr)labeled inputs. The color labeled inputs are for the three different color bands of the video. Then just play with the source button on the TV remote to make sure you select the right one.

RedRover
01-25-2015, 01:46 PM
Welcome to the world of RV'ing. After 15 years the wife and I still get excited when planning trips and when "on the road" with our 5'er.
Regarding pin lubrication -- I also use a lube plate, in black color, for the vertical pressure (pin weight) but also put about a teaspoon of chassis grease on the pin itself to help with the horizontal forces against the pin.
The other issues, leaking seal, speakers, DVD color, should all be addressed by the dealer that you bought the unit from. Water from the roadway should never leak into the inside. If water leaks in then dust and dirt will also be present on dry days.
Don't be discouraged by a few defects, every home needs a few adjustments/repairs, even when new.

Festus2
01-25-2015, 02:00 PM
Note:
I inadvertently deleted almost all of pocketlake1's original post and have sent him a PM about my goof. Hopefully, he will be able to repost it so that the above replies make sense.

Festus2 --- very embarrassed .......

Pocketlake1
01-25-2015, 07:22 PM
Sorry about that, we still have a lot to learn about a lot of things. The AC units are Dometic. The living rm unit is 15K BTU and the bedrm unit is 13.5k BTU. What happens is when we turn on a unit, we can see that it the generator jumps to over 30amps and in most cases then trips the breaker and everything shuts down. If we turn on the fan only, wait a bit then turn on the compressor, sometimes the generator will spike to only 15 amps and still continue to work. Everything else must be turned off. However that is random, and no guarantee. What we do not understand is why at times the AC will spike the generator to over 30 amps and trip the breaker in the generator. We did not expect the AC to require that amount of amps.

Pocketlake1
01-25-2015, 07:25 PM
Thanks to all for some great info. Hopefully someday we will be able to help a newbie with everything there is to learn.(tx)

Pmedic4
01-25-2015, 07:46 PM
One of the other big power draws on most RV's is the Water Heater. Between the WH and AC, you can be pushing the amp draw?

We've seen sometimes when even connected to a 30 Amp circuit at a campground, running both the AC and HW heater at the same time would trip the breaker on the post. Frustrating and doesn't make sense, but there are several reasons why this could happen, but that's another story.

chuckster57
01-25-2015, 08:01 PM
What is operating on 120V at any given time can cause your overload. If the fridge is on AC then the heating element will have a load. If the hot water heater is on AC the same thing happens.

You might try turning everything you can on propane only and try your AC again.