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randy69
01-17-2015, 05:15 PM
Anybody out there use a aluminum foldable ramp. To help on the angle on the toy hauler ramp door. I want to load a harley and not knock off the tail pipes.

bsmith0404
01-17-2015, 07:05 PM
I don't use them on a toy hauler, but I have used them for loading my v-star onto an ATV trailer. They work great, just remember your going to be a bit higher off the ground so you can't just put a foot down. I almost dropped mine once, after that I learned to line up, commit, and go.

socalhd
01-17-2015, 10:31 PM
Lay a 2x6 under the ground edge of the ramp door to give you a little more lift/angle relief. As you approach that critical point entering the box slide another 2x6 infront of your rear tire and get on that before you bottom out.

joestaz
01-18-2015, 05:44 AM
I extend the front of the rv as high as possible when loading and unloading. My bike isn't low as it's a dresser. Good luck

ri_truck_guy
01-18-2015, 06:20 AM
After a lots of experimentation, none of it particularly safe when loading a really heavy Ultra, I opted for a custom set of Race Ramps. They change the normal gate angle from 22 degrees to 12 degrees and give me positive footing all throughout the process. Not cheap, and they are fairly large, but I can still fit two full size bikes with the ramps in my 371 garage. And you can't put a price on not breaking bones and damaging expensive bikes.

randy69
01-18-2015, 06:22 PM
After a lots of experimentation, none of it particularly safe when loading a really heavy Ultra, I opted for a custom set of Race Ramps. They change the normal gate angle from 22 degrees to 12 degrees and give me positive footing all throughout the process. Not cheap, and they are fairly large, but I can still fit two full size bikes with the ramps in my 371 garage. And you can't put a price on not breaking bones and damaging expensive bikes.

Can you tell me where you got your ramps and what model.

ri_truck_guy
01-18-2015, 07:30 PM
I ordered them directly from Race Ramps. They were a custom set. If you go to their web site you'll find directions on how to custom order. I'll look for the dimensions I ordered, but you'll want to do some measuring and figure out what works best for you. Also, I ordered the pair to ensure I had sufficient width to get both feet down. I just strap them side by side and they stay perfectly in place.

http://www.raceramps.com/custom-trailer-ramp.aspx

Locowrench
01-19-2015, 05:32 AM
I have a set of ramps that I used for my old trailer, pre "Dove tail". I'd back the truck rear tires up on the ramps to get the nose way up. That way the ramp angle was considerably less. With the new trailer there is no need. Course mine is a Goldwing also.

bdaniel
01-19-2015, 04:48 PM
I made an extra ramp out of 2x4s and plywood. The ramp door on the 325SRX Toy Hauler is too steep to load a Honda Goldwing.

I have photos here:

http://www.bobbystuff.com/RV/index.php?blog=2015-extra-loading-ramp

Bobby

skidooxman
01-19-2015, 06:59 PM
I load my street glide with the toyhauler level and it clears with no issue. I guess the heights are different

Way Of Life
01-21-2015, 11:53 PM
After a lots of experimentation, none of it particularly safe when loading a really heavy Ultra, I opted for a custom set of Race Ramps. They change the normal gate angle from 22 degrees to 12 degrees and give me positive footing all throughout the process. Not cheap, and they are fairly large, but I can still fit two full size bikes with the ramps in my 371 garage. And you can't put a price on not breaking bones and damaging expensive bikes.

Bill.....Would you elaborate on some of the issues or concerns you had with loading you motorcycle. I have the same bike and have recently purchased a 2015 Fuzion 325 and have yet to load the bike into the garage. I'm not nervous but if I can learn a few tips.....tricks.....and things NOT to do before my first attempt that would certainly be to my advantage.

ri_truck_guy
01-22-2015, 04:17 AM
Sure. To be clear about my post, I bought the ramps when I had my previous toy hauler, which was a Coachmen 301BLDS. The ramp mounted to the RV at the same height as my Fuzion, but was shorter, so the ramp angle was steeper and the bike would bottom out at the top of the ramp. I also didn't like not being able to touch down with my feet at the bottom of the ramp, so I ordered the Race Ramps to change the ramp angle.

With the Fuzion, I don't have the issue with the bike bottoming out at the top of the ramp, but still have the issue where I can't touch down with my at the bottom. Not a huge issue when loading, but it can be when you're rolling backwards when unloading, especially with a heavy bike. The ramps allow me to have positive control of the bike throughout the process.

Also. if you have a center stand on the bike, take it off. That's guaranteed to bottom out and make you drop the bike when loading.

Major105bc
01-25-2015, 04:28 AM
Does anyone load or unload with the trailer unhooked from the truck? Sorry for the stupid question.

JRTJH
01-25-2015, 06:51 AM
Does anyone load or unload with the trailer unhooked from the truck? Sorry for the stupid question.

It's not a "stupid question". I have a 18' flatbed trailer to haul my farm tractor and a snowmobile trailer to haul our two snowmobiles. I would never consider loading the tractor onto the flatbed if it were not hitched to the truck. As soon as the tractor wheels hit the ramp, the tongue would be "sky high". I can unload the snowmobiles from the trailer (from the front) but can not drive them onto the trailer from the rear for the same reason.

You didn't say how big your trailer is nor did you say what you were loading and whether it was a "side loading toyhauler" with the garage in the front or if it is a "rear loading toyhauler" with the garage ramp in the back. It looks like you have a Carbon 325, but in answering your question, it would have a different answer depending on the trailer configuration. It's not a "one size fits all" type of answer. With a rear ramp garage, I wouldn't think you'd need to be "overly cautious" if loading a couple of 125cc dirt bikes, but if you were loading a 2000 lb UTV, you might want to start by hitching the truck AND making sure you've chocked the trailer wheels. If your trailer has a tendency to "push forward" when you're loading, another consideration is to take your tow vehicle out of PARK (to protect the parking pin) and put it in NEUTRAL and set the parking brake.

Toy Teacher
01-25-2015, 08:08 AM
Interesting, My Fuzion 302 with a Ultra Limited has never been a problem...
I guess they all have a different ramp angle.

smokeyfl
01-25-2015, 05:24 PM
My Fuzion has a beavertail which decreases the approach angle.
Today I loaded 2 Ultras with no problem. I do raise the front of the 5th wheel which further decreases the angle. When unloading, put the bike in 1st gear and use the clutch to help control your speed in addition to your front brake. There is only about a second when I can't touch the ground at the bottom of the ramp.

Locowrench
01-26-2015, 07:34 AM
Interesting, My Fuzion 302 with a Ultra Limited has never been a problem...
I guess they all have a different ramp angle.

Have you always loaded your bike to one side rather than in the center of your trailer? I have always loaded my Goldwing centered but with this trailer the door creases in the center and has been replaced 2 times for it. How does the trailer handle that weight not centered?

bdaniel
01-26-2015, 07:41 AM
The ramp on my 325SRX is also creased down the center. I am having it looked at under warranty. No response yet on whether it is a problem or will be replaced.


Bobby

LittleJoe
01-30-2015, 05:08 AM
325SRX ramp is rated for 1600lb

Garage weight is 1000lbs total.
When I loaded my K1200LT I lifted trailer ( still attacked to pin) up until just a tiny air gap at 5th plate. This is a low bike and loaded without issue.

After weighing axle ends , I no longer trailers LT, I use my lighter Concours or FJR.

(sorry about caps, just now noticed)

IMO and fully dressed GW. Or HD. Is overloading the pass side rear on a 325SRX

After one 3000mile trip with the LT I experienced a bad wear pattern at rear axle although it pulled fine.
With LT loaded and no water tanks full was right at max GVWR of trailer loaded for the road and over the axle on rear(trailer) by about 250lb all on one side

LittleJoe
01-30-2015, 05:09 AM
B Daniel
If you are riding up ramp at speed that will do it. If crawling slowly up it should not happen

Desert185
01-30-2015, 07:10 AM
Does anyone load or unload with the trailer unhooked from the truck? Sorry for the stupid question.

I load and unload a Yamaha Grizzly 660 or a BMW GS with the 326SRX unhitched from the truck on a regular basis. The wheels are chocked and the rear stab jacks are down. FWIW, the generic, Keystone manual says not to do it, but I haven't found any problems in my case. If there is no restriction in hitching or unhitching with the garage loaded, I figure the minimal weight shift when loading or unloading isn't going to create a problem. YMMV, however...:)

No crease in the ramp so far.

bdaniel
01-30-2015, 08:00 AM
B Daniel
If you are riding up ramp at speed that will do it. If crawling slowly up it should not happen

Hi LittleJob,

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. What are you saying should not happen? The crease?

Bobby

Locowrench
02-06-2015, 06:12 PM
B Daniel
If you are riding up ramp at speed that will do it. If crawling slowly up it should not happen


I have to respectfully disagree with you statement because even crawling up the ramp with a heavy bike will do that and only an idiot would try it otherwise. Take it from me, mine has been changed 3 times for that because the door IS NOT built to handle that weight in the center of the ramp. See my post about the New ramp door on a 301 and that will explain a lot. http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=19488

Their only suggestion is to load on one side or the other to avoid riding on the center where the two sections of decking come together. Im going to try that next time I load it. My only concern there is not having the weight of my Goldwing centered in the garage.

bdaniel
02-06-2015, 07:52 PM
The ramp is not very wide. Going up the center is about the only option. There is a label on the side and I don't remember the numbers but the Goldwing does not overload the ramp.

It says something like 1500 pounds with a single point contact load of 1000lbs. Again I don't remember the exact numbers but there is plenty of rated capacity with the Goldwing.

And I certainly go slow up the ramp but speed would not be a factor anyway. The creased panel is always at a less steep angle than the fold out panel. If speed is a factor the first panel would fail.

Bobby

Locowrench
02-07-2015, 03:01 PM
The tag actually says "Maximum Capacity 3000 lb in the ramp position with the load evenly distributed". "Maximum 1000 lb per wheel contact". I had this argument with Keystone and Lippert who is the manufacture of the door. They went as far as to say that my Goldwing actually overloads the door because there are only 2 contact points and are set close together. My question to them was why is that not specified in any of the literature that came with the trailer. They said that maybe it would be in the future. It was not a pleasant conversation by no means. The center joint on my last door was 2 1/2 inches off center so it wasn't even supported by the center structure. Regardless, in order to extend the life of your door I suggest that you stay off the center line.

Big Boy w/ Big Toys
02-08-2015, 11:26 AM
I load and unload a Yamaha Grizzly 660 or a BMW GS with the 326SRX unhitched from the truck on a regular basis. The wheels are chocked and the rear stab jacks are down.


Desert185 this is the reason you can do it without problems. The wheels chocked and rear stabs down give you the support. Granted the toys you are loading are really no big deal. A larger toy unhitched and supported could be a different story but not a door problem.

Desert185
02-08-2015, 01:40 PM
Desert185 this is the reason you can do it without problems. The wheels chocked and rear stabs down give you the support. Granted the toys you are loading are really no big deal. A larger toy unhitched and supported could be a different story but not a door problem.

My thought is if one loads the garage within the load limits specified by Keystone, there will always be enough kingpin weight to prevent the trailer from falling on its rear bumper whether the trailer sits in place loaded and unhitched or in the process of being load or unloaded while unhitched.

The wording in the generic Keystone manual outlining loading and unloading while hitched is company lawyer-speak for CYA Keystone...in my lay opinion, anyway. :cool:

Having said that, chocking the wheels and lowering the rear stab jacks make sense even though three or four of us (another ~800#) have walked around the garage while loaded and unhitched without any tipping of the trailer. The arm length from the wheels to the landing gear is longer than the arm length from the wheels to the rear bumper, so it would take a heck of a lot more weight to tip the trailer.

Big Boy w/ Big Toys
02-08-2015, 05:14 PM
Desert agreed on the lawyer stuff......

I have a bumper pull and it just would kill the tongue jack. I have seen countless car trailers pointing to the sky that were not hooked up or rear supported. I have had to repair equipment trailers that did not have support jacks down and still attached.

LittleJoe
02-08-2015, 06:04 PM
Hi LittleJob,

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. What are you saying should not happen? The crease?

Bobby

Yes the crease should not happen if the load is gently applied (so to speak) rather than riding up at speed. I have seen several do it this way and it not for me I can tell you that,

If the door is creasing under a weight lower than what it is rated for then obviously the rating is wrong and you should not be considered at fault.

Desert185
02-08-2015, 07:11 PM
Desert agreed on the lawyer stuff......

I have a bumper pull and it just would kill the tongue jack. I have seen countless car trailers pointing to the sky that were not hooked up or rear supported. I have had to repair equipment trailers that did not have support jacks down and still attached.

Yep...with my car hauler I always hook it up before loading. Different animal.

Major105bc
03-28-2015, 03:33 AM
I loaded my Heritage springer a couple weeks ago. Ramp is to steep for it because of the 42" super cholo exhaust. Had to ride up a 2x10 to clear the exhaust from hitting the ground. Haven't tried my ultra yet.

Desert185
03-28-2015, 07:51 AM
"Super Cholo" Thanks. I needed a chuckle this morning. :)

JDUFF
08-13-2015, 06:30 AM
I have a 310 tb with the side door ramp. I have to build the ramp up 17.5" to clear the threshold on level ground. I use 4x4 cribbing for my sizzor jacks anyway so I just needed a 4' 4x4 to support the door. I use a ramp to get onto the door.9229

9230

9231

DiverB
08-13-2015, 11:27 AM
I can get both my Sportster 1200 and my quad in with no problems nor another ramp. I think I can get my Electra Glide in as well without the use of an additional ramp, but I haven't tried it yet. I doubt I will ever put the dresser in the back, the little Sporty is easy enough to get in and out alone and it makes a great little campground cruiser.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_182117_0_85f217242be78cd580e556a99317c3e9.jpg

Nailz
08-14-2015, 06:53 AM
I have the same issues with my toy hauler ramp. My trailer does not have the dovetail at the entrance. The bike will not make the transition from the ramp into the trailer without getting stuck. Even if I adjust the bikes suspension to its highest setting it still gets stuck. I have to do cheetah flips to get the bike loaded into the trailer. I raise the tongue jack to its highest setting. I put down the rear stabilizer jacks for safety. I have two car ramps that I place close together under the rear lip of the ramp. I then put a piece of plywood on top of the car ramps. I don't think I could load my bike this way if I did not have a condor wheel chock. The trailer is at such a steep angle that without the wheel chock holding the bike in place and upright while I get the front straps secured to the bike loading this way without help would be near impossible.

I also have noticed a crease developing in my ramp door and I move very slowly while loading and unloading. For a ramp door that is meant for loading vehicles this is crap. There are several folks that have had this issue from what I have read on this forum. This is my biggest issue with my trailer. I hope to upgrade to a newer model Keystone 5th wheel with the dovetail entrance in the garage. I will load my bike in the new trailer before signing the paperwork to ensure that I do not continue to have this problem.

This may offend some but the build quality of these trailers are crap for what a new one cost. I think this applies to most brands not just Keystone. I like Keystone for the floorplans and amenities, so therefor I am a Keystone buyer. I enjoy this forum for the tips. modifications and lessons learned.

roadglide
08-16-2015, 10:32 AM
I can get both my Sportster 1200 and my quad in with no problems nor another ramp. I think I can get my Electra Glide in as well without the use of an additional ramp, but I haven't tried it yet. I doubt I will ever put the dresser in the back, the little Sporty is easy enough to get in and out alone and it makes a great little campground cruiser.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_182415_0_85f217242be78cd580e556a99317c3e9.jpg
I need to try that but ill be loading a RG . I use a aluminum 4 ft by 6 folding ramp about half the length of the door and hook the straps to the hinges that way it cant kick out coming down. I also start the RG and use first gear for the brake.