Black water valve leaking

[Pappydude]

I have a 2012 Cougar 318SAB and found out just before I stored it for the winter that the black water valve wouldn't close tightly. I suspect it's gone bad. I removed part of the carriage undercover, then carefully moved the foil insulation so I could see where the valve fits into the pipe - but didn't want to tackle the issue until I got more info and/or found out how difficult it is as a DIY. Yes I know the tank is empty and flushed several times and followed the recommendations for winterization. The earliest I'd tackle this, if I do it myself, would be March or April since I live on the West Coast.
Anyone know how difficult this job would be? I presume taking out enough bolts to allow me to cut the undercarriage cover and the foil insulation sufficiently to allow access to the valve gate and then removing the valve assembly itself. Not knowing what to expect when I get that far, any suggestions would be helpful. I intend to use Gorilla tape, 3" wide to re-tape the cuts to the undercarriage cover and the foil insulation. Or I could pay the $300 or more the dealer was asking.......I have time, I don't have the $$.
Pappydude

[therink]

I had similar problem last year. Hear is the thread I started and my solution http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12533

and here

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12593

[chuckster57]

Its probably the seals that have failed at the blade valve. Simple repair and the parts should be less than $10.00

4 bolts/nuts hold the assembly together. Simply spread the pipe far enough to remove the valve, replace the seals and put it back together. Before you take it apart look at the valve assembly and see if it says bladex as that is a different style of seal. Bolts/nuts are 7/16"

[carwheel_09]

In the past when I repaired mine I put a dap of dielectric grease on the inside of the seals were the blades slide thru. They were very smooth to operate after that.

[jtyphoid]

Its probably the seals that have failed at the blade valve. Simple repair and the parts should be less than $10.00

4 bolts/nuts hold the assembly together. Simply spread the pipe far enough to remove the valve, replace the seals and put it back together.

It's a simple repair IF the plumbing layout lets you separate the flanges enough to slide the valve assembly out and back in. Otherwise it's a PITA.

[Pappydude]

Thanks to all who responded. I believe I have the rod type waste gate - and now I'm wondering - does it unscrew inside or underneath somewhere to allow access? The area where my levers are appears to be totally enclosed. Based on your comments and suggestions I still belive this is a DIY project.....but again, not until it's warmer.
Pappydude
(tx)

[chuckster57]

If it is the extended rod type, the extension will thread on at the valve assembly.

You should be able to remove enough screws to lower the underbelly and gain access to the valve assembly. I agree, it is a much easier job in warmer weather.

[GaryMcLean]

When replacing gaskets be sure to put the gaskets on the valve not on the flanges. Also clean out the valve slide rails. Possible it could have tolet paper wedge in bottom of valve body preventing the gate to travel to the closed position.