C1v1leng
12-24-2014, 07:52 AM
I just finished adding a remote light control for our Cougar 333MKS.
The engineers thoughtfully eliminated all light switches near the door on this model. The light control panel is located in the stairway leading into the bedroom, so when you arrive home at night you need a flashlight to turn on the lights unless you thought to leave one on when you left.
I bought a four channel 12v light control form Amazon with a key fob button
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ842DG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The good thing is it is inexpensive at $12.00
Make five jumpers with a Male spade connected to a Female spade, and a third wire with a bare end to go into the controller.
I made jumper wires our of 18 gage wire and crimp slide in male and female connectors. I removed the light switch panel exposing the switches.
I found a bundle of white wires with a large wire nut and using a tester, confirmed these were connected to the negative 12v system. I ran a single wire from here to the ground terminal on the controller.
7589
Use one of the jumpers to provide power to the controller. (I used the cap light switch) Unplug the hot wire, plug the jumper into the switch and the wire you removed and put the remaining bare end wire into the controller next to the ground wire.
Here is where it got tricky without the directions. For each relay, you need to know which terminal to use:
Terminal Block Pin Out
Rly A .B .C .D
NC 4 10 .1 .7
Cm 5 11 .2 .8
NO 6 12 .3 .9
Also good to know without directions is the remote comes programmed for push and hold operation like a remote door lock. To change it for lights you must locate the jumper pins under the coiled up antenna and move the jumper to the other two pins. You can confirm the operation by hooking up power to the terminal next to the ground and pressing the button. You will hear the relay click. If it clicks again when you release the button you need to move the jumper. If it clicks once every time you press the button you have got it.
I wanted the switch inside to still work so using the volt meter again I found which side of the switch was hot and unpluged it then the jumper plugged into the switch and the Cm terminal on the controller and the wire I unplugged.
Then I removed the other wire from the switch and plugged my jumper harness onto the switch, the No terminal and the wire I just unplugged.
At this point you can test the devise. If the interior switch is on you can't turn it off with the remote, but if the interior switch is off you can turn it off and on with the remote. (sounds like the other remote for the slides and leveler)
You can use all four channels but I just hooked up the entry lights and the interior lights.
Don't forget to tape up the exposed wire connections before you push the panel back into the wall.
Works Great!
The engineers thoughtfully eliminated all light switches near the door on this model. The light control panel is located in the stairway leading into the bedroom, so when you arrive home at night you need a flashlight to turn on the lights unless you thought to leave one on when you left.
I bought a four channel 12v light control form Amazon with a key fob button
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ842DG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The good thing is it is inexpensive at $12.00
Make five jumpers with a Male spade connected to a Female spade, and a third wire with a bare end to go into the controller.
I made jumper wires our of 18 gage wire and crimp slide in male and female connectors. I removed the light switch panel exposing the switches.
I found a bundle of white wires with a large wire nut and using a tester, confirmed these were connected to the negative 12v system. I ran a single wire from here to the ground terminal on the controller.
7589
Use one of the jumpers to provide power to the controller. (I used the cap light switch) Unplug the hot wire, plug the jumper into the switch and the wire you removed and put the remaining bare end wire into the controller next to the ground wire.
Here is where it got tricky without the directions. For each relay, you need to know which terminal to use:
Terminal Block Pin Out
Rly A .B .C .D
NC 4 10 .1 .7
Cm 5 11 .2 .8
NO 6 12 .3 .9
Also good to know without directions is the remote comes programmed for push and hold operation like a remote door lock. To change it for lights you must locate the jumper pins under the coiled up antenna and move the jumper to the other two pins. You can confirm the operation by hooking up power to the terminal next to the ground and pressing the button. You will hear the relay click. If it clicks again when you release the button you need to move the jumper. If it clicks once every time you press the button you have got it.
I wanted the switch inside to still work so using the volt meter again I found which side of the switch was hot and unpluged it then the jumper plugged into the switch and the Cm terminal on the controller and the wire I unplugged.
Then I removed the other wire from the switch and plugged my jumper harness onto the switch, the No terminal and the wire I just unplugged.
At this point you can test the devise. If the interior switch is on you can't turn it off with the remote, but if the interior switch is off you can turn it off and on with the remote. (sounds like the other remote for the slides and leveler)
You can use all four channels but I just hooked up the entry lights and the interior lights.
Don't forget to tape up the exposed wire connections before you push the panel back into the wall.
Works Great!