Generator mounting input.

[Zman81]

Wanting to purchase a Honda 3000 generator to keep with my 5'er "15 cougar hc 313RLI" for emergencies or cooling while in route. Seen some with fancy mounts mounting it on top of pin box. Just wondered if I fabricated a mount to use with a bolt on reciever on bumper if it would be safe outback or should the bumper be beefed up with thicker steel and welded backup. I have a 11 shortbed 2500 hd and have the BW companion slider so hitch takes up a lot of my bed space.

Any input appreciated
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

[Festus2]

If I were you, I would not mount anything, especially a Honda3000 to your bumper -with a bolt-on receiver.
What you need is a support/platform that is welded to the frame of the RV. There may be a receiver welded to this framework but the bottom line is that it has to be secured to the frame - not the bumper.

Some folks haul their generators in the bed (mostly long box beds) of their tow vehicle and have secured them in a variety of ways but you may not have sufficient space to do this.

If you do a forum search on this topic, there are numerous threads - along with photos - already on here describing what others have done to transport their generator.

[gearhead]

That bumper is paper thin. It is usually just tack welded to the frame. I had the factory mounted spare on the Cougar mounted on it. I did get a bolt on receiver and carried a very light aluminum bike on a Swagman carrier. Luckily I didn't have an issue. But just did that for one trip. Houston to New Weston OH. (Eldora Speedway)
I just had a heavy bumper welded on the Montana today. Not cheap, but I now have peace of mind.
Call a few RV dealers near you and they should be able to refer you to an independent weld/fab shop.

[paoutlaw]

the rear bumper mounting so i have heard (cough) puts lot of road dirt in your generator.I have seen many front receiver hitches I believe from curt industries. then they had a platform stuck in it like from harbor freight.
http://www.curtmfg.com/HitchLookup/find?mount=Front+Mount&year=2011&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado&style=2500HD+2WD+or+4WD

[Zman81]

I do have the access and ability to a fab shop. I did come across some more threads about this issue. Thanks to Fetus2. I did find a bumper on here that I am goin to copy hope he don't mind. Def. A nice setup and exactly what I was looking for. I also have a swagman 2 place bike rack assembly on rear. But remounted my spare up front in between my landing gear. Wanted to be able to slide bikes one side or other and out gen. On the other side. I did read a lot of negative to about using oe rear due to being so thin.

[spicercars]

The other thing to keep in mind. Check and see what size ac unit you have. I had the bigger ac on our copper canyon and the Honda 3000 would not run it. Good luck

[Zman81]

I see I can run a/c ,fridge TV stereo and some lights no problem off a 20 amp breaker in my garage. Supposed to have a 15k AC its a Cougar high country. I just figured the the 3k geny had a max of 25 amp figured it would be fine. Keep the input comin.

[notanlines]

Z-man, here is a site that will help you out a little. Honestly, 3000 watts isn't very much when you take into account the start up wattage of an air conditioner.
http://98.139.21.31/search/srpcache?p=how+many+watts+in+a+15000+btu+air+condi tioner&ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-901&fp=1&u=http://cc.bingj.com/cache.aspx?q=how+many+watts+in+a+15000+btu+air+con ditioner&d=4538059562418980&mkt=en-US&setlang=en-US&w=6PCiRsTAVqYPq8ad4qJWGq1XSTmELNC0&icp=1&.intl=us&sig=c9dqz.78Zdf7mBr1zrQ8eg--

[gearhead]

We had the 15K BTU A/C on our previous Cougar. I ran it off a 20amp residential a few times. However, when I ran it off our Champion 3500/4000 generator the portable Surge Guard protector would turn it off. That was running only the A/C. The refrigerator was on propane and hot water heater was on propane. The start-up amps apparently dropped the voltage enough to trip out the surge guard. Now, I run the A/C off the generator without the surge guard. I realize I may be causing some damage with the short term low voltage, but it's a risk I take. It's also the reason I don't have a hard wired surge protector.

[dmar]

We have a Yamaha EF3000iSEB generator which puts out 3000 watts plus 500 watts boost when needed for AC startup, etc. Our toy hauler has a 15000 btu AC and this generator works fine. I don't know if the Honda 3000 inverter model has the boost feature, but if it does, I would think it would work on the larger AC unit as well.

[Ram189]

I see I can run a/c ,fridge TV stereo and some lights no problem off a 20 amp breaker in my garage. Supposed to have a 15k AC its a Cougar high country. I just figured the the 3k geny had a max of 25 amp figured it would be fine. Keep the input comin.

I have been camping for over 35 years with my folks and now with my family. I have always been told, never read it anywhere, that the A/C compressor will burn itself up trying to run off 20 amp house current. The amperage is too low to run everything properly and tends to burn up the compressor.
No proof but have always been told not to run it that way.

Just my .02

[Bill & Deb]

Wanting to purchase a Honda 3000 generator to keep with my 5'er "15 cougar hc 313RLI" for emergencies or cooling while in route. Seen some with fancy mounts mounting it on top of pin box. Just wondered if I fabricated a mount to use with a bolt on receiver on bumper if it would be safe outback or should the bumper be beefed up with thicker steel and welded backup. I have a 11 shortbed 2500 hd and have the BW companion slider so hitch takes up a lot of my bed space.

Any input appreciated
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

Zman

We had a local welding shop add a set of rails to the frame of our trailer immediately behind the existing bumper. Then they welded on a couple of two inch receivers that we use for a bike rack or generator. I have included a few pictures but can supply more if needed.

I had a vinyl cover made to cover it and a piece of plexiglass on the bottom to keep road spray out. Plus it is locked in place with a chain and pad lock.


Bill


http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_153946_0_72a7e497ed192c0b971697086585a3ef.jpg


http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_153946_1_24aacb19a9e6c1ea3686f7628442e113.jpg


http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_153946_2_e9f39d906b0f3559b0cc8b97cb09298b.jpg

[gearhead]

I have a portable Progressive Industries Electrical Management 50amp protector. I have watched it while running off campground and household power. My 15K BTU A/C usually draws 14-16 amps. I have never seen it over 18 amps. I feel OK running just the A/C off a 20 amp household circuit.
I believe my issue running off the generator is that it can't respond quite fast enough when the A/C compressor kicks in to prevent it from tripping the protector.

[JRTJH]

We have a Yamaha EF3000iSEB generator which puts out 3000 watts plus 500 watts boost when needed for AC startup, etc. Our toy hauler has a 15000 btu AC and this generator works fine. I don't know if the Honda 3000 inverter model has the boost feature, but if it does, I would think it would work on the larger AC unit as well.

The Honda EU3000iS is rated at 3000 watts (max) and 2800 watts (continuous output)

The Honda EU3000i Handi is rated at 3000 watts (max) and 2600 watts (continuous output)

There is no advertised "boost feature".

In the Honda literature: http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu3000is you'll find this statement for the EU3000IS: "Power for your furnace, fridge, microwave, most 13,500 BTU RV AC units, and more"

That statement is missing from the description of the EU3000i Handi: http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu3000i-handi

I would guess that the smaller engine (196cc vs 163cc) and the lighter weight (134 lbs vs 78 lbs) would indicate a significantly smaller generator core which is not capable of producing the sustained output without overheating, thus the smaller continuous load rating of the Handi.

Sustained output for the EU3000i is 23.3 amps while the EU3000 Handi is only rated at 21.7 amps. That may not seem like a big difference, but when it comes to powering capacitive start motors at or near the maximum rated output, 2 amps can mean the difference in damaging your generator (a $3100 investment) and/or damaging your RV electrical wiring/appliances by a "low voltage/low amperage" condition.

I'd say that using a 2600 watt continuous output generator to power an RV with its "hidden load" plus a 15K BTU A/C is "living on the edge".....

[JRTJH]

I have a portable Progressive Industries Electrical Management 50amp protector. I have watched it while running off campground and household power. My 15K BTU A/C usually draws 14-16 amps. I have never seen it over 18 amps. I feel OK running just the A/C off a 20 amp household circuit.
I believe my issue running off the generator is that it can't respond quite fast enough when the A/C compressor kicks in to prevent it from tripping the protector.
.
Another possibility is the "floating ground" on portable generators. There are a number of posts on the forum about people using Progressive circuit protectors that work well when plugged into shore power, but don't work when plugged into a generator with a "floating ground". The reason is because the circuit protector checks for a neutral to ground connection. There is one on the shore power plug at the campground (so it allows the RV to get power), there is not one on a "floating ground" generator, so the circuit protector shuts down power to the RV.

Many of the newer Progressive EMS permanently installed units have a "bypass" feature that will shut off the "ground monitoring system" and allow the unit to function with a "floating neutral" generator. With a "hand held EMS" simply unplug it and don't use it with the generator, however you also lose the other protective features of the EMS when on the generator power.

Here is a pretty good explanation at the RV NET website: http://blog.rv.net/2009/10/generator-bonding-and-grounding/

[gearhead]

^^^^ding ding ding. We have a winner!
Yep I bet that's it.
Anyone get inside their generator and do the connection?
It's been 45 years since Navy electronics school, and I didn't like it much then either.
About all I remember are the rhymes:
Eddie Kilowatt giving Milli Ampere a ride on his megacycle, etc etc.
And of course: Bad Boys R***

[JRTJH]

I use my generator as a backup power source for the house as well as for the trailer, so no, I haven't modified my grounding system.

If you're going to exclusively use your generator with the trailer and will NOT be connecting it to power your home, shop or anything else that uses conventional power when not on the generator, you can modify the generator grounding system very easily. It's only a "one wire mod".

You can still use it with power tools, refrigerators, freezers, TV's, portable A/C's etc, but only if they are plugged into the generator. You can't use the generator to plug into a transfer switch on the side of your home and then use the existing house wiring to power those appliances without violating most local electrical codes. Additionally, you have the potential to make the generator chassis hot (and get electrocuted) if there is a wiring problem or if a short occurs in any equipment that is plugged into the generator. So making it a "ground/neutral" generator instead of a "open ground" generator is not without some risk.

Not specifically speaking to you, gearhead, but in general terms: If you plan to use your generator as a power source for things other than your RV, I wouldn't recommend modifying it. There are a number of resources on the internet that can show you exactly how to do the mod, so I won't go into any details here as I wouldn't want to be the source of someone hurting themselves or damaging their equipment if they aren't familiar with electrical wiring, electrical codes and how to properly wire their generator without the potential to burn their house down or kill themselves. Yes, it's that dangerous if you don't know what you're doing !!!!! I hope that doesn't sound too "melodramatic", but a "tinkerer" can create a dangerous situation if they don't know what they are doing.

[Zman81]

Everything runs fine off when plugged into house power on a 20 breaker. My a/c is only on a 20 amp breaker in the trailer as well. It is a 2015 if that makes a difference. But as though it sounds I prolly should go with 4000 series or bigger then on a gen set. All I am wanting it for is to keep trailer cool during transport and emergency use at the grounds. And thanks to all of you for your input. I really thought that eu3000is would have done the trick. But that's why I figured I would ask this is my first trailer and am learning and def. Not an electrician. Thanks again to all.

[JRTJH]

Everything runs fine off when plugged into house power on a 20 breaker. My a/c is only on a 20 amp breaker in the trailer as well. It is a 2015 if that makes a difference. But as though it sounds I prolly should go with 4000 series or bigger then on a gen set. All I am wanting it for is to keep trailer cool during transport and emergency use at the grounds. And thanks to all of you for your input. I really thought that eu3000is would have done the trick. But that's why I figured I would ask this is my first trailer and am learning and def. Not an electrician. Thanks again to all.

Dometic, in the A/C owner's manual recommends a 3500 watt generator for a single 15K A/C and a 5000 watt generator for an RV with 2 A/C's that will be used at the same time. It's not specifically the 15-18 amps required by the A/C that causes the problem. It's the other loads in the RV, converter/battery charger, refrigerator, water heater, TV, any phone/game chargers, computers, etc that add up quickly and make a 2600-2800 watt continuous generator just "not quite enough" on a bad day at the campground...... You might want to consider two 2000 watt generators that can be coupled for added power. That would be a total of 1600 watts each or 3200 watts total. Usually that would be enough power for almost any given situation with a single 15K A/C and the "typical RV load". Good Luck

[gearhead]

Everything runs fine off when plugged into house power on a 20 breaker. My a/c is only on a 20 amp breaker in the trailer as well. It is a 2015 if that makes a difference. But as though it sounds I prolly should go with 4000 series or bigger then on a gen set. All I am wanting it for is to keep trailer cool during transport and emergency use at the grounds. And thanks to all of you for your input. I really thought that eu3000is would have done the trick. But that's why I figured I would ask this is my first trailer and am learning and def. Not an electrician. Thanks again to all.

So, you are wanting to run the generator while you go down the road to run the A/C to cool the trailer?

[Zman81]

Thanks JRT for the input def. got me pointed in right direction now. Def. Glad I asked that could have been a 2000.00 dollar mistake. And yes gear head. We keep trailer plugged in and cool all summer when we are home. The brown exterior is nice but sure warms up the interior pretty fast. If we can keep the interior items cool it don't have to work so hard when we get to point B. Not to mention anything in cupboards that can melt has. Then I have to hear about it. Lol

[Bill & Deb]

Zman

We had a local welding shop add a set of rails to the frame of our trailer immediately behind the existing bumper. Then they welded on a couple of two inch receivers that we use for a bike rack or generator. I have included a few pictures but can supply more if needed.

I had a vinyl cover made to cover it and a piece of plexiglass on the bottom to keep road spray out. Plus it is locked in place with a chain and pad lock.


Bill




http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_154007_0_b87ce833093f62aceec2b3b69e005569.jpg


http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_154007_1_cd14805d96b11a29121d1050d031bb55.jpg

[gearhead]

Thanks JRT for the input def. got me pointed in right direction now. Def. Glad I asked that could have been a 2000.00 dollar mistake. And yes gear head. We keep trailer plugged in and cool all summer when we are home. The brown exterior is nice but sure warms up the interior pretty fast. If we can keep the interior items cool it don't have to work so hard when we get to point B. Not to mention anything in cupboards that can melt has. Then I have to hear about it. Lol

It goes without saying that Ohio has shorter summers than Texas. We still have leaves on the trees and I'm in shorts tinkering around the yard! We have summer, then January.
But, we have never noticed any damage inside the trailer while it sits out in the hot Texas summer. I keep both roof vents open and one or two windows open a bit. But, whatever pulls your trigger. LOL