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2011 keystone
02-09-2011, 07:53 AM
Pros,cons do they work on larger trailers.Are the worth buying? Thanks
camper 2010
02-09-2011, 04:12 PM
I have a 27RLS and use one with it. I can tell a big difference when I pull the trailer withour the sway control. I also had one with my last trailer.
jq1031
02-09-2011, 04:54 PM
I plan to purchase one upon delivery of my new 33.6 foot Laredo. Using a Yukon Denali with a 6.2 / 403 HP gas engine as a TV. All the power in the world cannot stop the sway!
HigginsPod
02-09-2011, 05:03 PM
We also have one on our Pod. have only traveled once without it (Lost the pin) :o From a co pilot point of view............. We won't travel without it again. (now have a few extra pins)
2011 keystone
02-09-2011, 05:08 PM
Thanks for all off your answers! I will order one in the next day or so. Ebay. is one brand better than others?
tribalsimba
02-09-2011, 06:21 PM
Just ordered the Equ-A-Lizer with my new Laredo 303TG. After digging through Reese, Hensley, Pull-Rite, Draw-Tite, etc... the Equalizer was the more ideal one for me. I purchased the 12K lbs bars also given the loaded GVW of my trailer.
KanTC
02-09-2011, 06:47 PM
We used an Equal-i-zer (brand) and were very pleased -- winds across NM can be brutal at times. :eek:

There's other suggestions & good info in the following threads:

What hitch do you use? http://keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=912

Swaying Issues http://keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=372

Hensley Arrow Hitch http://keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=151

Hitch question http://keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1133

Probably more if you search around the forum. Hope this helps.

Terri, the Chevy co-pilot :)
Outbackmel
02-09-2011, 08:00 PM
B4 moving to a 2011 fifth wheel, towed my 31ft TT using the above hitch. Had the 12,000 lb set. Properly set up, at 65mph; no impact from passing trucks and my knuckles were not white :) Getting too old to handle the weight of the hitch so I spent another $50,000 for an upgrade :D That's $20k for the trade difference and $30k for a diesel rig to tow the darned thing;)
What the heck, it's only old dirty cash money....A good stop at Dunk'n Donuts and bingo, on our way.....
Flyguy
02-10-2011, 06:34 AM
When you say "Friction Sway Control" are you referring to those slides that have the handle on them to adjust friction and attach to the TTers A frame and then to the hitch head with a little ball? If so then I wouldn't bother spending any money on those. We had one on our Passport and it wasn't very effective and it was a pain to have to keep adjusting it just to find the right tension and to release it when maneuvering to trailer. We then shifted to the Reese dual cam system and that worked out a lot better for us. Of course the ultimate is the Hensley/pro-pride 3P hitch if you have the money for it.
tribalsimba
04-25-2011, 06:52 PM
The equalizer is partially friction based; in the way the torsion bars slide on the camper frame mounted plate; but that friction is coupled with other sway mechanisms in the hitch head where the other end of the torsion bars mount. I believe there is a spring in there; as well as similar offset camber no different that what Reese does.

I'm told the Reese Dual Cam is quieter; but can't say because my Reese hitch is 30 years old, and very rusty. It's being sold with the camper it's mounted on.

The 'friction' based attachments that can be purchased 'stand-alone' I'm told are not useful for anything beyond 3000lbs; and even then are un-matched to the performance of Reese Dual Cam or Equalizer.
Paddler
04-26-2011, 10:59 AM
I also have to vote in favor of the Equal-i-zer brand hitch. I used one (10K), on two different trailers and 3 different tow vehicles and have nothing but kind words to say about it. I wouldn't waste my money on the friction sway type hitches.
DEW
05-03-2011, 05:12 PM
The equalizer is partially friction based; in the way the torsion bars slide on the camper frame mounted plate; but that friction is coupled with other sway mechanisms in the hitch head where the other end of the torsion bars mount. I believe there is a spring in there; as well as similar offset camber no different that what Reese does.

I'm told the Reese Dual Cam is quieter; but can't say because my Reese hitch is 30 years old, and very rusty. It's being sold with the camper it's mounted on.

The 'friction' based attachments that can be purchased 'stand-alone' I'm told are not useful for anything beyond 3000lbs; and even then are un-matched to the performance of Reese Dual Cam or Equalizer.

I just picked up my 291TG and was informed that the Reese HP Dual Cam I ordered will not fit on the new front cap of the Laredo. It has something to do with the new cap now covering up the A-frame so there is nothing to bolt to. Much to my dismay I have the standard ole friction bar installed.
If anyone has any different info that the dual cam actually fits on the new front cap of the Laredo, please post me a picture so I can go back to the dealership and plead my case.
SLIMSHADIE
05-03-2011, 06:51 PM
Dew, if you can take a pic or tell me a measurement on the TT.
I need to know the distance from the coupler(center/end) to the start of the front cap, on the A-frame. Basically how much clearance you have.

I have the Reese Dual Cam 1200 round bar for my 291TG with the old fiberglass cap. I store it at work but have access to it.

I did not have that hitch the first year and it does make a better ride!!!
SLIMSHADIE
05-03-2011, 07:04 PM
Dew, I forgot that my hitch is here at home. The round bar system needs about 30-31" clearance on the A-frame, from the center of the coupler.
chuck&gail
05-04-2011, 05:13 PM
Had a friction sway bar once, hated it. Bought an Equal-i-zer WD hitch with built in sway control. I love it, MUCH better.
DEW
05-04-2011, 05:16 PM
Slimshadie,

I just went out and measured. Basically I have 31" from the center of the ball to the center of the bracket that the chains on the WD bar hook up to. There is maybe 1 1/2" after this bracket before the new end cap starts covering the A-frame.

Now that I look at a picture of a HP Dual Cam, I looks like the 'brass colored' arms mount on the A-frame between the ball and the end of the WD bar. I envisioned it was the other way around. Am I seeing this correctly?
If so there should be no issue with the HP dual Cam being setup on my unit...
jq1031
05-04-2011, 05:30 PM
I've seen the dual cam set up on a few Keystone TT's. I have the new front cap with a Reese WD + Sway Bar. From what I've seen there is more than enough room for the dual cam setup. My Reese/Sway Bar does the job, however, if i were to do it again, after towing a couple K miles I would buy the dual cam!
SLIMSHADIE
05-05-2011, 10:41 AM
Dew I took some pics, just keep in mind that mine is still in storage and I was holding the tape measure with one hand and the camera with the other.

The first is an overview and you probably notice that I had to move the tanks up a little and notched the cover for clearance.
386

Here is the other pics, I let my chains hold the cams, they stay dryer under the tanks.
387
388
389

Hope this helps ;)
DEW
05-06-2011, 09:13 AM
I recieved word from the Dealership that kind of clears this up. Due to the new end cap, the battery location has moved. So right where the Dual Cam is to bolt to the A-frame, the weldment tray for the battery is placed.

I would need to move the battery to another location and then I would be good to use the Dual Cam. So it was not the fact that the new end cap was the problem, just the relayout of the components on the tongue because of it.

Another member of the Forum here has a 303TG with new endcap and did exactly that- moved the battery and installed the Dual Cam. He hopes to post his mod up for us to see.

(check out my thread on the New Member section) http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2599