Yet...another winterization question

[Lawdogs]

The DW and I are looking to camp year round. In Virginia, you can usually find several weekends throughout the winter that are not that cold. In the past, I have drained the hot water heater, turned the hot water bypass and blew out the lines including the black water flush. Only put anti-freeze in the p-traps and toilet bowl. With the new rig, I have to unload half the basement and remove a panel to get to the hot water bypass. Not a big deal, but could be a pain if we camp 7-8 times over the winter.
Question is: If I drain the hot water heater and blow out the lines (checking to ensure hot water heater tank is empty), is there any need to use the bypass? My gut says no, but I look for the vast knowledge of other members. Thank you in advance for your replies. (tx)

[Bluewater]

Think I agree with you. Don't forget to drain the tanks and low points, outside shower and put pink in p-traps. Are you aware that if you heat with a portable heater when out no heat will get to underbelly? You need to run the furnace to get any warm air down there. Have fun !

[JRTJH]

What you're trying to do will work, but there are "limitations" that you need to consider.

If you open the hot water heater drain (remove the anode rod) and leave the bypass in the "normally functioning position", the majority of the compressed air will flow through the hot water heater and not push water out of the lines beyond that point. So your cold water lines and your hot water lines "PAST" the hot water heater will essentially remain full of water.

What you need to do to drain the lines using your procedure is to first drain the water heater and open the low point drains. Turn on the compressed air, allow the majority of the water to be pushed out of the system. Then reinstall the anode rod, (this will allow air pressure beyond the water heater) and continue to force water out of the system. Next, close the low point drains, turn on each faucet starting with the one closest to the air source, allow it to run dry, then move to the next closest faucet, continue until all faucets are dry, open the low point drains again and lastly, remove the anode rod to allow the remaining water that may have been pushed into the water heater to escape. Remove the air source, ensure the water pump is dry and pour antifreeze down the drains to protect the drain traps. Make sure the anti siphon valve in the black tank flush is dry and protected as well as the toilet bowl seat/flush valve.

Don't forget the outside shower and leave the shower hose down to allow any accumulated water to drain from the shower head out to the shower pan and not drain back toward the shower faucet valves.

[GaryWT]

The main reason for the bypass is to save on antifreeze and allow the system to be under pressure quicker with the air. So, as said, as long as the loop is closed after draining the tank, you should be good.