need some paint/surface advice

[Pulln]

I have removed all my decals as they were all blown out. It took me a solid two days to get them all off and remove the adhesive and while my motivation level is still high I'd like to clean and polish/wax the exterior.

I've never owned anything like this before and not sure what the exterior walls and nose cap are made and would appreciate any advice you all are willing to share.

I already have the new decals and plan on having them installed by an RV body shop once I am done and want to make sure what ever I do doesn't complicate their installation process.

For those interested in seeing what a naked 09 Fuzion looks like I attached are some pics I took after the decals were removed. The pics were taken before the adhesive was removed.

[chuckster57]

The cleaner the surface, the better adhesion. I would just wash it with a high quality wash, NO wax. Hopefully the body shop uses an additional cleaner like denatured alcohol. We also use a spray cleaner called acrysol, but it's like $27.00/can.

A good wax or protectant like Nu Finish would be a good idea AFTER decals are applied and left alone for a couple of days.

[Bluewater]

If I were you I'd let the body shop do the waxing. They have very good professional waxes and polish plus all the best equipment to apply and polish your rv.

[bsmith0404]

Just clean it with denatured or a 10% solution of alcohol. then wash it with a detergent such as dawn. Do not use a car wash as most of those have a wax in them. You want the surface to be clean and wax free for the details. If you want to get crazy, you could also clay bar it, but I doubt you'd be able to feel your arms when you finished.

Once the decals are done, I'd get a good quality one step wax designed to be put on with a DA. I use Pinnacle XMT 360, Marine 31 All In One Gel Coat Polish and Wax is a good one as well. If you don't have one yet, a Porter Cable 7424xp with some 4" foam pads works great for waxing twice a year.

[Pulln]

The cleaner the surface, the better adhesion. I would just wash it with a high quality wash, NO wax. Hopefully the body shop uses an additional cleaner like denatured alcohol. We also use a spray cleaner called acrysol, but it's like $27.00/can.

A good wax or protectant like Nu Finish would be a good idea AFTER decals are applied and left alone for a couple of days.


The shop I am going to is top notch but want to give them the best surface I can when I take to them so I may do a final wipe down with denatured alcohol. Appreciate the top on the wax I read about nu finish in another thread as well.

[Pulln]

If I were you I'd let the body shop do the waxing. They have very good professional waxes and polish plus all the best equipment to apply and polish your rv.

I am definitely considering letting them do the first polish and wax. I doubt they or I will be able to remove any of the discoloration to the surface but they would certainly have a better chance that me. The ghosting from the decals really shows how hard the sun is on these things.

I may buy a cover once it is all done.

[chuckster57]

Regardless what you do, the shop should do another prep as your unit will have been "on the road" even if it's just one block.

[Pulln]

Just clean it with denatured or a 10% solution of alcohol. then wash it with a detergent such as dawn. Do not use a car wash as most of those have a wax in them. You want the surface to be clean and wax free for the details. If you want to get crazy, you could also clay bar it, but I doubt you'd be able to feel your arms when you finished.

Once the decals are done, I'd get a good quality one step wax designed to be put on with a DA. I use Pinnacle XMT 360, Marine 31 All In One Gel Coat Polish and Wax is a good one as well. If you don't have one yet, a Porter Cable 7424xp with some 4" foam pads works great for waxing twice a year.

I love doing clay bar on my motorcycle, car and truck and would really love to get a couple of bars and go to town on this monster but like you said I'd likely lose feeling in my arms and have to sleep in my camper at the storage lot til the sensation comes back.

I do not have a buffer yet and am glad you mentioned the porter and the wax products.

So it sounds like i should just give them the camper with a clean surface and no wax if I want this done right. So I am going to give them a call tomorrow to get the ball rolling.

[Pulln]

Regardless what you do, the shop should do another prep as your unit will have been "on the road" even if it's just one block.

yeah very good point and given the quality stuff I have seen at their shop I am sure they will.

I'd do the decals myself but I am afraid that I will dork that job up.

[Pulln]

I am gonna hijack my own thread for a minute.

So the clear coat on my wheels have seen far better days. Do you all know of some good products for removing the clear coat? I may try to find a wheel repair guy to get a quote on cleaning them up but afraid of what I might here when they give me the quote.

[chuckster57]

I bead blast and powder coat them. If the clear is peeling, the finish will show a line. About the only products I know of to remove the rest are strippers that may stain the rims. That's why I strip, bead blast and then powder coat.

Someone else might have a different idea.

[bsmith0404]

I bead blast and powder coat them. If the clear is peeling, the finish will show a line. About the only products I know of to remove the rest are strippers that may stain the rims. That's why I strip, bead blast and then powder coat.

Someone else might have a different idea.

Agree, you can get some really nice finishes and colors with powder coat. Can probably get a nice custom design that will accent your RV nicely. I have gone to a softer media blast like walnut shells. It's less harsh and doesn't leave an etch like some other materials.

[bsmith0404]

I do not have a buffer yet and am glad you mentioned the porter and the wax products.

The PC is a nice low price unit that is great for people who don't do a lot of polishing. There are several other units out there that are nice as well, Griots and Meguiars are a couple. Flex is another great polisher, but it is pricey and a bit heavier. I have a Flex and a PC 7424xp. I love the Flex especially when working a large area such as the RV or a large auto panel like the hood/door. I run 6" pads on the Flex, the PC is not as powerful and the 6" pad will stop the DA quite often, that's why I recommend a 4" pad on it. If you get several orange foam pads you can get the RV done in a day with a nice one step (all in one) product. BTW, a DA polisher is completely safe. The dual action prevents heat build up which is what causes damage when working with a rotary polisher. If you go with the PC, it is IMPOSSIBLE to cause damage to finish from the polisher. I recommend going to autogeek.com and watching some of Mikes videos. If you really want to keep your RV looking good and wax it a couple time per year, you will definitely want a polisher. And yes you can wax over the decals and it will help protect them.

[BOWWOW]

I'm just curious because I am have the same decal issue, what assures you that the new decals will not fail and have the same shortcoming as the originals? Are you having a clear coat put on them or something to keep the edges down?

[2011 keystone]

I'm just curious because I am have the same decal issue, what assures you that the new decals will not fail and have the same shortcoming as the originals? Are you having a clear coat put on them or something to keep the edges down?

It seems to me like there sre only two kinds of decals. Just like concrete.
those that have cracked and those that are going to.
But with decals the more you clean them and the better wax/polish you use on them will prolong there life.

[BOWWOW]

It seems to me like there sre only two kinds of decals. Just like concrete.
those that have cracked and those that are going to.
But with decals the more you clean them and the better wax/polish you use on them will prolong there life.

I agree! When I am finished taking mine off I will probably leave them off and just enjoy camping in the big white mint instead of wax on wax off, it makes my coozie shake.

[outwest]

The PC is a nice low price unit that is great for people who don't do a lot of polishing. There are several other units out there that are nice as well, Griots and Meguiars are a couple. Flex is another great polisher, but it is pricey and a bit heavier. I have a Flex and a PC 7424xp. I love the Flex especially when working a large area such as the RV or a large auto panel like the hood/door. I run 6" pads on the Flex, the PC is not as powerful and the 6" pad will stop the DA quite often, that's why I recommend a 4" pad on it. If you get several orange foam pads you can get the RV done in a day with a nice one step (all in one) product. BTW, a DA polisher is completely safe. The dual action prevents heat build up which is what causes damage when working with a rotary polisher. If you go with the PC, it is IMPOSSIBLE to cause damage to finish from the polisher. I recommend going to autogeek.com and watching some of Mikes videos. If you really want to keep your RV looking good and wax it a couple time per year, you will definitely want a polisher. And yes you can wax over the decals and it will help protect them.I've been interested in trying an orbital polisher (hand polishing and waxing is a pain!), but have always been nervous about it because of all of the horror stories my father pounded into my head when I was a teen (how they only cause damage - whether it be from burning the paint or even just leaving swirled scratches). Your post convinced me to give it a go and got the Griot's 6" on its way. Thanks :)

[bsmith0404]

I've been interested in trying an orbital polisher (hand polishing and waxing is a pain!), but have always been nervous about it because of all of the horror stories my father pounded into my head when I was a teen (how they only cause damage - whether it be from burning the paint or even just leaving swirled scratches). Your post convinced me to give it a go and got the Griot's 6" on its way. Thanks :)

You will be happy you bought it. The one thing that I cannot stress enough with the foam pads, you cannot have enough of them. I use about 10 to polish the entire camper. Secondly, do not use too much product (polish), Once the pad gets "loaded up" it loses it's effectiveness. It is a combination of the pad and the product that does the work. As mentioned earlier, I like a one step or all in one product with an orange pad for doing the RV...just too much surface area to do anything else. With cars I use different pads, polishes, and multiple steps. My personal preference on pads are the Lake Country CCS pads. Also a pad cleaning brush is nice to have around.

One warning....it is addictive and won't be long before you start working on your cars/truck. You should see the results of the 4 step polish/jeweling job I did on the DW's Camaro...amazing how much a stock paint job can shine when there are NO swirls/scratches in it. Of course that was after 4 steps and 18 hours of polishing. Feel free to post any questions or PM me.

[outwest]

You will be happy you bought it. The one thing that I cannot stress enough with the foam pads, you cannot have enough of them. I use about 10 to polish the entire camper. Secondly, do not use too much product (polish), Once the pad gets "loaded up" it loses it's effectiveness. It is a combination of the pad and the product that does the work. As mentioned earlier, I like a one step or all in one product with an orange pad for doing the RV...just too much surface area to do anything else. With cars I use different pads, polishes, and multiple steps. My personal preference on pads are the Lake Country CCS pads. Also a pad cleaning brush is nice to have around.

One warning....it is addictive and won't be long before you start working on your cars/truck. You should see the results of the 4 step polish/jeweling job I did on the DW's Camaro...amazing how much a stock paint job can shine when there are NO swirls/scratches in it. Of course that was after 4 steps and 18 hours of polishing. Feel free to post any questions or PM me.
I got the Griot's Ultimate Kit w/25' cord to start me off. I didn't order any extra pads or cloths yet, partly because I wasn't sure how many I might need for the RV. Thanks for letting me know how many it takes for your rig; it helps to give me a better idea of how many I'll need. I'll definitely check out the Lake Country pads. I figured I'd start with a smaller project (one of the cars) first, before I use it on the trailer. I appreciate the offer of help w/ any questions. Thank you.

[bsmith0404]

I got the Griot's Ultimate Kit w/25' cord to start me off. I didn't order any extra pads or cloths yet, partly because I wasn't sure how many I might need for the RV. Thanks for letting me know how many it takes for your rig; it helps to give me a better idea of how many I'll need. I'll definitely check out the Lake Country pads. I figured I'd start with a smaller project (one of the cars) first, before I use it on the trailer. I appreciate the offer of help w/ any questions. Thank you.

That's a nice kit. Cars typically take 4-6 of each color pad (except red, only 1 since it's just applying wax). Unless your paint is really bad, you should not need the polish 1. I'd start with the polish 2 and orange pad. If you can get the swirls/scratches out with that move to the polish 3 with the black pad and then finally put some wax on with the red. I love Black Fire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba. The reason to stay away from then polish 1, when you polish you are removing microscopic layers of clear coat to remove scratches. You want to remove the least amount as possible to get the desired result. So start with a lesser aggressive product and move up only if needed. The purpose for the second step with the 3 and black is to remove microscopic scratches left behind from the 2. You cannot see them with the naked eye, but they leave a bit of a haze and prevent a true shine. Finally the wax is a protection layer that bends the light to give a better shine. Again, I only use these steps on cars, not worth it on an RV, the difference isn't worth the work. I guess we kind of hijacked this thread, but it is about finishing/waxing the RV.

[Pulln]

I bead blast and powder coat them. If the clear is peeling, the finish will show a line. About the only products I know of to remove the rest are strippers that may stain the rims. That's why I strip, bead blast and then powder coat.

Someone else might have a different idea.

Thanks for the advice. I suspected they would have to come off and roughed up a bit :) Any idea what a ballpark figure would be for blast and powder coating for 6 wheels?

[Pulln]

I'm just curious because I am have the same decal issue, what assures you that the new decals will not fail and have the same shortcoming as the originals? Are you having a clear coat put on them or something to keep the edges down?


well from what i understand the decals in the 09' time frame had some terribly quality issues and like 2011 keystone said there are only 2 kind of decals :)

I did consider just painting the ghosted areas with black and/or red but didn't want to deal with the cost of preparing the camper for that.

I do not plan on clearing over them but will look at protectants like 303 aerospace or whatever I can get advice on from here.

[Pulln]

I agree! When I am finished taking mine off I will probably leave them off and just enjoy camping in the big white mint instead of wax on wax off, it makes my coozie shake.

I am considering this as well. The quote I got today for decal install was 1200 dollars!

[chuckster57]

Thanks for the advice. I suspected they would have to come off and roughed up a bit :) Any idea what a ballpark figure would be for blast and powder coating for 6 wheels?

I would just be pulling a number out of the air since I'm sure labor rates differ at your end of the states. I know what I would charge, but I don't powder coat to put food on my table and it's not acceptable on this forum to "advertise".

Powder coating has become very popular and I bet there are more than a couple of shops nearby. Here in my town there are 4 shops that I know of, never checked their prices as I don't intend to compete. With that said..most likely the powder coater will have to dismount the tires, blast, coat, and then remount tires, 6 times. If you got a price of $750.00 I would say your being treated fair.

[Pulln]

That's a nice kit. Cars typically take 4-6 of each color pad (except red, only 1 since it's just applying wax). Unless your paint is really bad, you should not need the polish 1. I'd start with the polish 2 and orange pad. If you can get the swirls/scratches out with that move to the polish 3 with the black pad and then finally put some wax on with the red. I love Black Fire Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba. The reason to stay away from then polish 1, when you polish you are removing microscopic layers of clear coat to remove scratches. You want to remove the least amount as possible to get the desired result. So start with a lesser aggressive product and move up only if needed. The purpose for the second step with the 3 and black is to remove microscopic scratches left behind from the 2. You cannot see them with the naked eye, but they leave a bit of a haze and prevent a true shine. Finally the wax is a protection layer that bends the light to give a better shine. Again, I only use these steps on cars, not worth it on an RV, the difference isn't worth the work. I guess we kind of hijacked this thread, but it is about finishing/waxing the RV.


Definitely appreciate the tips. Its looking like I will be working on the surface a bit before turning it over to the decal folks if I can find a reasonable quote for install. The one guy I spoke with today quoted 1200 dollars. I did ask if I could polish/wax the camper first and said it would be ok but they would wipe the camper down with iso alcohol first and it would remove the wax.

I am looking forward to buffing my wife's 03 altima 3.5. We bought it brand new and still runs like a scalded dog but the black paint needs some attention.

[Pulln]

I would just be pulling a number out of the air since I'm sure labor rates differ at your end of the states. I know what I would charge, but I don't powder coat to put food on my table and it's not acceptable on this forum to "advertise".

Powder coating has become very popular and I bet there are more than a couple of shops nearby. Here in my town there are 4 shops that I know of, never checked their prices as I don't intend to compete. With that said..most likely the powder coater will have to dismount the tires, blast, coat, and then remount tires, 6 times. If you got a price of $750.00 I would say your being treated fair.


Thank you sir, didn't mean to put ya in a spot but after getting a quote of 1200 dollars for the decal install I wanted to make sure buying new OEM wheel wouldnt make better since than blast and coating.

[chuckster57]

Your welcome. No harm done. I don't blame you for weighing your options. Since I have the equipment and ability to do lots of different things, I don't try to stay informed on labor rates and such.

[bsmith0404]

I am looking forward to buffing my wife's 03 altima 3.5. We bought it brand new and still runs like a scalded dog but the black paint needs some attention.

Going to start on a black car........brave man:D Enjoy, I think you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to get good results....not saying it isn't a lot of work, but the process is easy. Spend some time with green tape masking off rubber and trim, you will tank yourself. Can get the tape at any auto parts store.

[BOWWOW]

I am considering this as well. The quote I got today for decal install was 1200 dollars!

Yes indeed $1200 is a lot every 3-4 years just to maintain poor quality. Mine started peeling after 1 year, I got the big nope from keystone when I called so I think I am choosing not to pay for their free advertisement on my rig .

[Pulln]

Going to start on a black car........brave man:D Enjoy, I think you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to get good results....not saying it isn't a lot of work, but the process is easy. Spend some time with green tape masking off rubber and trim, you will tank yourself. Can get the tape at any auto parts store.


thanks for the tape tip. It reminded me of something I did when I was younger and too motivated.

[Pulln]

Yes indeed $1200 is a lot every 3-4 years just to maintain poor quality. Mine started peeling after 1 year, I got the big nope from keystone when I called so I think I am choosing not to pay for their free advertisement on my rig .

I am considering possibly taping off the ghosted areas and painting over them. The thought of going through this again in a year or two pains me and to pay 1200 dollars for the privilege kills me.

[JRTJH]

I am considering possibly taping off the ghosted areas and painting over them. The thought of going through this again in a year or two pains me and to pay 1200 dollars for the privilege kills me.

If you can find a graphics shop that you trust, talk to them about replacement decals, how to make them more durable and expected longivity. Another option is to paint over them to keep some kind of "color and pattern" on your RV.

Think back to the fall of 2005 when all those "plain white trailers" were headed to New Orleans. Maybe FEMA did have the right idea not installing decals, but man were those some "plain Jane" RV's......

[bsmith0404]

I am considering possibly taping off the ghosted areas and painting over them. The thought of going through this again in a year or two pains me and to pay 1200 dollars for the privilege kills me.

For $1200 , or a little bit more, you can probably get some pretty decent striping painted on. Then you only need to keep some touch up paint around for any nicks/chips/scratches.

[Pulln]

If you can find a graphics shop that you trust, talk to them about replacement decals, how to make them more durable and expected longivity. Another option is to paint over them to keep some kind of "color and pattern" on your RV.

Think back to the fall of 2005 when all those "plain white trailers" were headed to New Orleans. Maybe FEMA did have the right idea not installing decals, but man were those some "plain Jane" RV's......


The sad thing is I have the decals and have removed all the old ones and residual adhesive. I haven't personally priced decal installs as a factor new option but was told it is in the neighborhood of 1800 dollars.

I did get a second quote and they wanted 1100 dollars.

The first quote was for 3 guys and a day or 24 man hours of labor so 50 dollars an hour per person. The second quote didn't state the number of people but said it would take a day.

[VegasBT]

I saw someone on this forum (or another, I've become a forum addict) talk about a vinyl wrap as an alternative to painting. You may want to see if this is an option?

[Pulln]

I saw someone on this forum (or another, I've become a forum addict) talk about a vinyl wrap as an alternative to painting. You may want to see if this is an option?

I've asked the folks that gave me the second quote for info on wrapping the camper. I'll post what the come back with as soon as I get it.

[JRTJH]

The sad thing is I have the decals and have removed all the old ones and residual adhesive. I haven't personally priced decal installs as a factor new option but was told it is in the neighborhood of 1800 dollars.

I did get a second quote and they wanted 1100 dollars.

The first quote was for 3 guys and a day or 24 man hours of labor so 50 dollars an hour per person. The second quote didn't state the number of people but said it would take a day.

If you have the decals and you've already proven that you know how to remove defective ones, what have you got to lose by just trying it for yourself. From my very limited experience in the military and putting decals on my snowmobile trailer, it's honestly not that difficult (except for maybe the big one on the front cap). With a little dawn and water in a spray bottle, getting them in place without wrinkles isn't that difficult and the self satisfaction of completing the job is a great feeling.

Rather than pay someone $1200, I'd start with a couple of the smaller decals, work up to the bigger ones as your experience and courage permit. Even if you mess a couple of them up, you have the expertise to remove them. Replacing a couple from EBay sources wouldn't be nearly the cost of having someone apply them for you. Besides, who's to say they wouldn't "screw it up" worse than you would?????

I'd tackle it if I were you :)

Good Luck

[Pulln]

If you have the decals and you've already proven that you know how to remove defective ones, what have you got to lose by just trying it for yourself. From my very limited experience in the military and putting decals on my snowmobile trailer, it's honestly not that difficult (except for maybe the big one on the front cap). With a little dawn and water in a spray bottle, getting them in place without wrinkles isn't that difficult and the self satisfaction of completing the job is a great feeling.

Rather than pay someone $1200, I'd start with a couple of the smaller decals, work up to the bigger ones as your experience and courage permit. Even if you mess a couple of them up, you have the expertise to remove them. Replacing a couple from EBay sources wouldn't be nearly the cost of having someone apply them for you. Besides, who's to say they wouldn't "screw it up" worse than you would?????

I'd tackle it if I were you :)

Good Luck


The lovely wife and I are definitely looking at this coa as well. As a still highly motivated prior sailor the will and desire is there. My biggest concern was screwing up one of the decals but didn't know these things were being sold on ebay.

I sincerely appreciate the motivation and vote of confidence and thank you from the bottom of my heart for your service.

[chuckster57]

If you want more info on DYI decal install, PM me.

[Pulln]

If you want more info on DYI decal install, PM me.

pm sent. thanks for taking me under your wing :) and thanks for your years as a LEO. I have two Uncles that retired as LEO's and a brother that is one.

[JRTJH]

I you go to EBay, type in "Keystone RV decal" in the search block, you'll get a number of hits with Keystone decals. (I got 105 hits) If you modify the search to "RV decal", the number of hits increases dramatically. I just got 25,603. While it's apparent that they aren't all Keystone "original equipment" decals, there are a large number of replacements available that would be suitable for many RV applications. Prices are anywhere for $5 to $450 for a "complete set" (whatever that might be).

[Pulln]

I you go to EBay, type in "Keystone RV decal" in the search block, you'll get a number of hits with Keystone decals. (I got 105 hits) If you modify the search to "RV decal", the number of hits increases dramatically. I just got 25,603. While it's apparent that they aren't all Keystone "original equipment" decals, there are a large number of replacements available that would be suitable for many RV applications. Prices are anywhere for $5 to $450 for a "complete set" (whatever that might be).

I have had such a hard time finding used parts on ebay that I completely discounted using them for decals.

[Pulln]

A bit of an update. We got one of the installers to knock off several hundred dollars by offering a cash payment. They started the install this afternoon and suspect they may wrap up by tomorrow night.

My son and I made several passes on the camper removing the old adhesive and silicon on the edges where the decals terminate. The fact that it was very clean and install ready helped lower the price as well.

I think the only issue with the decals is the size of this shape that looks like two overlapping and opposing C's next the the word fuzion. Appears that the decals Keystone sent are a bit smaller than what was installed back in the day.

I'll post some pictures up tomorrow of the work they have done.

[chuckster57]

Very nice! I will be waiting for picks.

[Pulln]

I should have some up soon. I want to wash and wax before posting them up. Plus I am waiting for some more decals from Keystone. I should have done an inventory myself before dropping it off but had assurances from Keystone that they were all there.

It looks so much nicer now.

[Pulln]

Remainder of the decals are coming tomorrow and plan on having my installers finish the job up this week. Hope to have it washed and looking sharp for photos soon.

[Pulln]

Well my son and I pretty much just finished the project. I had most of the decals installed by a vinyl wrap company. After the decals were on the surface still lacked something and a chance conversation with a neighbor about the project he told me about a product he used on his boat called Poli-Glow. The end result exceeded my expectations and is very cost effective. Below are a few pictures from the camper. The red picture shows part of the slide out with and without Poli-Glow.

[Pulln]

one more picture.

if you look at the upper left hand corner of the camper you'll notice an area that I missed. My wife and I noticed some really intense heat when standing on the sunny side of the camper today. Not sure if it will help with interior temps but I felt like I was standing in front of a solar reflector.

[Pulln]

A very special thank you to Keystone for the decals. They went to the moon and back for us. Thank you Keystone!

[BOWWOW]

Pulln, if you don't mind. What was the final cost of the project and how long do you expect they will last?
I am in the process of removing right now but I think I will be replacing minimal decals with a few of my own design.

[Pulln]

Pulln, if you don't mind. What was the final cost of the project and how long do you expect they will last?
I am in the process of removing right now but I think I will be replacing minimal decals with a few of my own design.


My son and I removed the decals. I spent approx. 200 dollars for stuff like adhesive remover, plastic razor blades, and 3m decal eraser. The decals came off very easily under direct sunlight with the plastic razor but some of the bad decals left a lot of adhesive behind.

On the install I spent 700 dollars. Most of the decals were covered by Keystone. I spent 200 dollars to have the vinyl wrap folks to print a few that Keystone didn't have the right size or sent the wrong orientation.

For the shine/protection I spent 140 dollars on 2 Poli-Glow kits that i bought on Amazon. We only ended up using one bottle of the Poli-Prep but did use both bottle of Poli-Glow. It was money well spent.


Had I had the time and tools to do the decal install it would have been a very low cost process.

[BOWWOW]

Thanks Pulln.
I am in the process of removing mine now. Acetone, MEK, 3M #8984, heat gun, plastic scrapers, rags. It's adding up to about $300.00. Getting the adhesive off is very time consuming. I am trying to get Keystone to pay for the removal. They already told me they would not pay for new decals. I don't think I will reorder the original decals, but I may have 3 or 4 of my own design made locally by a friend just to billboard my displeasure with them.
Open for suggestions!
I would like a little swagger of design rather than just the Big White Mint.
I'll post pics of the "New Edition Fuzion" when I get these off and my own installed.

[jensen_53]

The cleaner the surface, the better adhesion. I would just wash it with a high quality wash, NO wax. Hopefully the body shop uses an additional cleaner like denatured alcohol. We also use a spray cleaner called acrysol, but it's like $27.00/can.

A good wax or protectant like Nu Finish would be a good idea AFTER decals are applied and left alone for a couple of days.
Chuckster57
You seem to know your facts. I have a defective 2013 21RBS with the fading cap. Is there ANYTHING I can use on it to restore or at least maintain some level of shine?
Thanks much.