Converter/Charger Upgrade

[SkiSmuggs]

After replacing my single 12V battery with dual 6V batteries and much reading, I decided to replace my WFCO 8955 converter with a PowerMax Boondocker PM4B-55 circuit board from bestconverter.com. This is a direct replacement for the WFCO.
I disconnected the 120 volt, turned off the 120 circuit breakers and removed the positive (but negative first!) cable from the battery bank. After looking at the WFCO, I decided that the best bet was to remove the 2 screws holding it in, pull it out and then swap the wires either singly or in pairs. Before swapping wires, I tried to insert the PM4B and it seemed to be blocked. Turns out one of the blades that needs to slide into a slot at the rear was bent so I straightened with pliers and it slid right in. The wires on the PM were on opposite sides from the WFCO and a ground wire was on the AC side instead of the DC side. I started with the heavy AC pair as they were the easiest to get to, but difficult to run behind the DC fuse panel. Needle nose pliers, a flat blade screw driver and a few four-lettered words were all it took to get them in place and screwed down. I then did the DC pair and the common ground, routing them the same way they came out.
With my heart pounding, I plugged in the AC, connected the battery cables and flipped the circuit breakers on. The screech of a detector coming on just about sent me through the roof, but the microwave clock was on, a 120 light worked and the 12v stuff all worked.
I checked the volt meter and it read about 14.7 for 10 minutes, dropped to 13.6 for a few hours and then down to 13.2 float mode. Mission accomplished!
I would suggest a before photo before removing wires so you can be sure where they were connected, but doing one at a time works as well.

[randy69]

I replaced my converter with a powermax boon docker it didn't fit into the same spot. So I remouted it. Now easy to get to. Great converter 3 years warrenty. And made in usa.

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

After replacing my single 12V battery with dual 6V batteries and much reading, I decided to replace my WFCO 8955 converter with a PowerMax Boondocker PM4B-55 circuit board from bestconverter.com.

Tell me why? I thought our OEM converter was up to the task? What is our OEM converter not doing that you wanted it to do? I also went to the dual 6-volt Trojan batteries and I thought I researched this issue. I want to make sure I'm not missing something.

[SkiSmuggs]

I replaced my converter with a powermax boon docker it didn't fit into the same spot. So I remouted it. Now easy to get to. Great converter 3 years warrenty. And made in usa.
Bestconverter.com has the circuit board direct replacement that does fit. http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-Main-Board-Assembly-for-WFCO-8955_c_196.html

[SkiSmuggs]

Tell me why? I thought our OEM converter was up to the task? What is our OEM converter not doing that you wanted it to do? I also went to the dual 6-volt Trojan batteries and I thought I researched this issue. I want to make sure I'm not missing something.

This one holds boost mode (14.6v) longer and has an equalizing mode of 14.8v. The WFCO has a reputation of being difficult to get into boost mode (14.4v)

[Yosemitebob]

I disconnected the 120 volt, turned off the 120 circuit breakers and removed the positive cable from the battery bank.
With my heart pounding, I plugged in the AC, connected the positive battery cable and flipped the circuit breakers on. .

SkiSmuggs

May I suggest next time you remove the negative battery cable first. This reduces the chance of you contacting metal with the wrench as well. Removing the positive cable first can cause a spark (an ignition source) from constant draws of electric and if (I do say if) you had a leaking battery, it could ignite gases that would cause an explosion. I know, I'm looking worse case scenario. But...it has happened, I've seen it happen twice in my lifetime so far. Once to someone else, once to my own vehicle.

[JRTJH]

To echo Yosemitebob,

I've been involved in a number of surgical repairs of burns from wedding rings, etc that were a result of working on a vehicle battery. It doesn't happen often, but if you're the unlucky soul that happens to get a wrench on a positive battery terminal and the other end happens to touch a grounded spot on the vehicle with your ring in the middle, it will probably result in a trip to the ER and possibly to surgery. A ring can surely be the cause of a finger amputation if it burns through most of the tissue.

Removing the negative terminal first will prevent most of this kind of accident (unless you happen to get "caught" between the positive and negative terminals... :(

[SkiSmuggs]

Thanks, guys! That was my first instinct, but followed the directions that came with the PM instead. :o You are absolutely right and I updated my original post to reflect that in case someone uses it to replace one.

[Bill & Deb]

On a side note, when you remove the negative terminal, cover it with electrical tape. Had a situation where an adjustable wrench fell out of a co-workers hand. He tried to grab it as it was falling and it did a spin and landed across the terminal where it glowed red and smoked till the center melted and became two parts. In this case the negative terminal was removed.
This problem would not be as common with side terminals but there are a lot of batteries that have both still out there especially deep cycle batteries.

[SkiSmuggs]

On a side note, when you remove the negative terminal, cover it with electrical tape. Had a situation where an adjustable wrench fell out of a co-workers hand. He tried to grab it as it was falling and it did a spin and landed across the terminal where it glowed red and smoked till the center melted and became two parts. In this case the negative terminal was removed.
This problem would not be as common with side terminals but there are a lot of batteries that have both still out there especially deep cycle batteries.

Yeah, I dropped the wrench while installing the new Trojans and had quite the light show for a second until it bounced off. Good suggestion.

[billandjan]

Back in the mechanic days in the USAF, safety protocol was to never wear jewelry when working on stuff.

[SkiSmuggs]

Back in the mechanic days in the USAF, safety protocol was to never wear jewelry when working on stuff.

And for good reason. My step-daughter while in the Navy almost lost a finger when she caught her class ring while jumping off a ladder after working on a plane.

[Jager]

Back to Poppy's question . . . I too am planning on replacing my converter because i think it is junk. It takes forever and a day to charge the batteries. It runs and runs without putting much charge in may batteries. I want a much better (faster) unit with greater charging capacity.

[JRTJH]

Back to Poppy's question . . . I too am planning on replacing my converter because i think it is junk. It takes forever and a day to charge the batteries. It runs and runs without putting much charge in may batteries. I want a much better (faster) unit with greater charging capacity.

When you look for replacements remember that the total amperage rating is all the converter can produce. As an example, if you currently have a 60 Amp converter and are having issues with charging batteries, it may not be the converter, it may be the total demand on the 12 volt system. If you're using 50 Amps to operate the trailer, there's only 10 Amps left over to charge the batteries. To get more "battery charging capability" if your trailer demand remains the same, you'd need a larger converter to get more "amps to the battery"....

In the above example, if you wanted to get 30 Amps to the batteries, you'd either have to reduce the DC demand somewhere by turning things off or you'd have to install an 80 Amp converter/charger.

[Bill & Deb]

Back to Poppy's question . . . I too am planning on replacing my converter because i think it is junk. It takes forever and a day to charge the batteries. It runs and runs without putting much charge in may batteries. I want a much better (faster) unit with greater charging capacity.

I think that I am going to put in a separate charger/trickle charger for the battery with a diode isolator . This way my converter or power supply as they are known in electronics can focus on supplying 12 VDC to the trailer. You do not have to use a RV converter.

This is an example of one on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinetik-KIPS12-80-Battery-Power-Supply-Charger-80-Amp-12-Volt-Smart-Dual-Mode-/400781342046?pt=US_12_Volt_Portable_Car_Appliances&hash=item5d506df55e&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IOTA-DLS-90-12-VOLT-90-AMP-AUTOMATIC-BATTERY-CHARGER-POWER-SUPPLY-NEW-/221106778709?pt=Battery_Chargers&hash=item337afdb255


Bill

[Jager]

Thanks John but I experience this all the time. We dry camp at state parks in the Adirondacks and there are strict generator hours during the day time. Usually there is no one in the camper and nothing on other than the frig. I can run the generator for 3 - 4 hours and the batteries still don't get charged up. I haven't dug into what I have for a converter now but I will before changing it out.

If we keep this unit (considering selling it all and moving to class A diesel pusher) then I will be doing a number of modifications to it next year. Change to 4 - 6v batteries, new converter/charger, add an inverter, LED light conversion and probably a solar panel to help charge.

[SkiSmuggs]

This Power Max Boondocker does a good job of getting my dual 6-volts topped off in 3 hours on the road from the umbilical cord and more quickly when plugged into 120v.

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

This Power Max Boondocker does a good job of getting my dual 6-volts topped off in 3 hours on the road from the umbilical cord and more quickly when plugged into 120v.

Did you happen to take any pictures of this upgrade in progress? I've had the cover off and I think I've even pulled the front panel out but I have no idea what I'm looking for. Do you have to re-wire the whole thing when you swap these out?

Also, do you mind telling me where you ordered and how much?

[randy69]

Did you happen to take any pictures of this upgrade in progress? I've had the cover off and I think I've even pulled the front panel out but I have no idea what I'm looking for. Do you have to re-wire the whole thing when you swap these out?

Also, do you mind telling me where you ordered and how much?

Wiring a converter not very hard at all. Getting access to it in some RV is a pain.

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

Wiring a converter not very hard at all. Getting access to it in some RV is a pain.

Understood, that's why I asked because SkiSmuggs and I have the same unit.

[BOWWOW]

I recently upgraded to a Progressive Dynamics Intellipower 9200 series PD9270 with integrated charge wizard. I do all dry camping. My batteries were losing the charge and then a day later would not take a charge at all. I had to run a battery charger off of my Yamaha 1000 generator for 3 days until I could go purchase and install the new converter / charger out in the woods.
So far it has performed great. The install was pretty easy using only the tools I carry in the truck. Mine is located in the front storage so access was easy. It was just a bit larger and I did have to modify one piece of carpeted plywood , still it was easy.

[SkiSmuggs]

Did you happen to take any pictures of this upgrade in progress? I've had the cover off and I think I've even pulled the front panel out but I have no idea what I'm looking for. Do you have to re-wire the whole thing when you swap these out?

Also, do you mind telling me where you ordered and how much?

No pictures, sorry. It is pretty straight forward and I got it from Bestconverter.com. Be sure you get the WFCO 8955 direct board replacement as someone else got the full PM unit and had to relocate because of the size. The only confusion is that the 120v and 12v wires are on opposite ends of the board. Read my original post and just replace one wire at a time. Only the two screws at the front bottom hold the unit in place. Pull the WFCO out with wires still connected, test the new unit fit as I had to straighten a bent "tab A" for it to slide in, then swap one wire at a time.
Poppy, your answers are on the first page of this thread. I just checked and this post is mostly superfluous.