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Bulletproof
09-22-2014, 07:30 PM
So I recently purchased this TT knowing there were small signs of water damage when I opened the compartment of the dinette set that shares a wall with the refridgerator that has the furnace installed below the fridge.
The signs of damage are low on the wood, starting at the corner of the dinette near the outside wall tapering off as it extends towards the end of the dinnette beyond the front of the fridge. I removed the lower wood grill below the fridge to trouble shoot and noticed that there are NO signs of water leaking down the walls from above!
Two possible sources of water entry?
There is a white plastic square vent that is removable for access the rear of the fridge, is this know to leak? (disclaimer- I originally thought that the original leak was caused by the brittle plastic drain hose that attached to the fridge, but I replaced it and checked the leak area and noticed the damage grew more inward- possibly because I stored the trailer unlevel?) The hose is extended outside the lowest part of the vent.
The second entry point :
Appears to be a chrome exhaust vent for furnace? Are these know to leak? Anyone had these type of problems?

Festus2
09-22-2014, 07:47 PM
There is a 3rd possible entry point and that would be the white/cream-colored louvered exterior vent fridge cover. I would check both the furnace vent and the exterior fridge access to make sure that the caulking is intact and isn't starting to go hard or have small gaps anywhere.

If your unit is several years old, it might be a good time to remove the vent cover, clean off the old sealant/caulking and reapply caulking to both the fridge and furnace vents.

There is one member who just posted and reported a similar problem with a leak around the back of the fridge which he thought might be coming in through its vent. This leak was detected following a heavy, prolonged downpour.

Bulletproof
09-23-2014, 03:55 AM
What type of caulk is recommended? The white vent I was talking about is the same vent you mentioned (you described it better!)

Festus2
09-23-2014, 07:11 AM
Check to see if the present caulking is the grey butyl tape variety and if so, replace it with that type. It comes in a small roll, is gray in color. When you remove the old butyl tape, clean the area thoroughly and then apply the tape. The butyl will probably be black and dirty by now. You just gently press it (start at the bottom first) on so that it sticks, then place the cover over it and fasten down. Apply enough pressure so that the tape starts to "ooze" through edges. Trim off any excess butyl.

If the sealant is not butyl tape, I would use one of these sealants: Sikaflex Marine, 3M, or Geocel Proflex. Geocel is probably more readily available. Whatever you do use, DO NOT use silicone. When it comes times to re caulk and silicone has been used previously, the new silicone won't stick to the old stuff. Also, you will find that silicone is not all that easy to remove.

Bulletproof
09-23-2014, 05:51 PM
Thanks for the help!

Campy
09-25-2014, 07:15 AM
Where is the water heater in relation to the water damage? My old 2011 Coachman had a crack in the water heater tank that would only leak when it was hot. That was a very difficult leak to find but Attwood replaced it without question.