Help needed with LED marker light install

[dirt33]

I will go ahead and ask these questions like I am a dummy, because when it comes to anything electrical, I pretty much am...

I am wanting to replace all exterior lights with LEDs. I purchased one red light today to make sure I can do it. So far, I removed the old light and cleaned off the old caulking. The new light has one black wire with a bare end, and a white wire with a round terminal on it. The existing wiring is 2 black wires both going into the plug that went into the back of the old light. I am now unsure how to wire up the new light. The Bargman plastic bag/package has no instructions (yes, I know they assume most people can easily figure out what to do).

Photos attached.

http://i59.tinypic.com/zwiakj.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/2dazr00.jpg

[JRTJH]

You're doing it the "hard way" !!!!

Bargman makes a simple replacement LED conversion kit that fits the 59 series lights. You simply pull the old lens cover, pull the light bulb, plug in the new LED assembly and snap it into the lens cover.

If it doesn't work, then just unplug it, turn the plug around and plug it back in.

Cost is about $8 each, about the same price as the LED clearance light setup, but you don't have to do all the unscrewing, rewiring, resealing and worrying.

The red kits and the amber kits have different numbers, red is 42-59-410 and amber is 42-59-412.

Here are links to the one site: http://www.xloffroad.com/index.php/Bargman-42-59-410-ClearanceSide-Marker-Light.html?gclid=CMGDkKfrqsACFYhcMgod5hQAKg#.U_lLw cJ0zmQ

http://www.xloffroad.com/bargman-42-59-412-clearanceside-marker-light.html#.U_lMQMJ0zmQ

[Carrnutt]

I agree with the method mentioned above by JRTJH.

Alternatively you could possibly just replace the bulb with an LED of the same connection type.

If you wish to continue the way you're going or for future reference:

You can use a meter to find which black wire is positive and which is the ground, then hook it up with the white wire to the ground and the black to the positive.

OR

You can also strip a small amount off the black wire and connect the 2 wires (white and black) simply by touching them to the connections in the socket that is currently there and switch them around if needed to make the light work. Then you note which wire went to which. Make sure you have the lights on... just saying :)

[dirt33]

Thank you for the replies.

Carrnutt, you have set me on the right path, thank you. I definitely should have been able to think of that, but oh well, I don't mind asking so that I know.

JRTJH, yeah you are correct, I see now that I certainly am doing it the hard way. I definitely like the kit you have linked, much easier. That kit uses the existing lens, correct? I will say, this new "entire setup" piece that I have (it has 4 LEDs and a new lens) does look a lot clearer, redder, and brighter than the existing bulb and lens. I would love the ease of the plug in upgrade kit, but would be bummed to re-use the old lens.

[JRTJH]

Thank you for the replies.

Carrnutt, you have set me on the right path, thank you. I definitely should have been able to think of that, but oh well, I don't mind asking so that I know.

JRTJH, yeah you are correct, I see now that I certainly am doing it the hard way. I definitely like the kit you have linked, much easier. That kit uses the existing lens, correct? I will say, this new "entire setup" piece that I have (it has 4 LEDs and a new lens) does look a lot clearer, redder, and brighter than the existing bulb and lens. I would love the ease of the plug in upgrade kit, but would be bummed to re-use the old lens.

No, the kit comes with a new lens, the LED's are already installed in them. (That's the reason for the two different numbers, one is for the red lights one is for the amber lights.) You simply pop off the old lens, pull the old bulb, plug in the new lens wires to the bulb socket and snap the new lens onto the old housing and you're done.

[dirt33]

No, the kit comes with a new lens, the LED's are already installed in them. (That's the reason for the two different numbers, one is for the red lights one is for the amber lights.) You simply pop off the old lens, pull the old bulb, plug in the new lens wires to the bulb socket and snap the new lens onto the old housing and you're done.

OK, thank you very much for the heads up. Now I wish I hadn't pulled off this old light and scraped off all the caulk. (Although, the old caulk was looking pretty nasty as it was dirty from the 4+ years of runoff...)

But, without question the kit you have shown me would be so much faster/easier than doing an entire new install for each fixture. Thank you for letting me know, I will certainly be going that route.

[Dave in Va]

I put the Bargman LED's on our old TT and they worked out great. The Bullet has Bargman taillights, but Command marker lights. Has anyone used the Bargman LED marker/lens on a Command fixture? The old Bargman lens is a little more rounded on the top and bottom, but seems to pop onto the Command fixture OK. Command doesn't have a plug-in LED upgrade.

[Hoojs12840]

Anyone know of a company that makes LED tail lights that just snap/plug in like the Bargman marker lights JRTJH posted a link to?


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[dhdb]

Anyone know of a company that makes LED tail lights that just snap/plug in like the Bargman marker lights JRTJH posted a link to?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used the LED upgrade kit for all my marker lights. But upgrading the tail lights to LED required changing out the whole light. Fortunately Bargman make an LED taillight that was an exact copy of my original taillights. I will say this, after 3 years, there are 3 small LEDs on one light that have burned out. Bargman says they will not replace due to 1 yr warrantee having expired.

[Dave in Va]

Anyone know of a company that makes LED tail lights that just snap/plug in like the Bargman marker lights JRTJH posted a link to?


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These weren't plug and play, but they worked out well. I installed them on top of the factory housings. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-lights/led-bargman-07-tail.htm

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_141224_0_b785289151dcc2315a9480b975ad612e.jpg

[dirt33]

Thanks for posting the info Dave in Va. I will do the tail lights next, and had been looking at that model that you posted. Looks like it will be a good replacement for the existing tail lights.

I also did not realize that the existing marker lights are not Bargman. Glad you pointed that out. I will probably order only 1 of the LED upgrade kits to start with, to make sure that it fits OK. (I am also "somewhat" still kicking around the idea of just replacing the entire units like the one I have started with at the top of this post. By the time I put this one back on, with new caulk, it will look much nicer than the older lights where the caulk is mostly black around the fixtures. My local RV dealer does not have the LED upgrade kit in stock, they only have the entire new unit that I have been working with. Although JRTJH's linked upgrade kit would be incredibly easier, I may perhaps actually take the hard route and do them all from scratch, depending on how much hassle this one is. I am the type that really likes just driving two blocks to the parts store to grab something "in hand" as opposed to ordering and waiting, whenever possible. I also enjoy giving the local Mom and Pop dealer the parts business when feasible).

[Dave in Va]

Your lights may well be Bargman. I was getting ready to order them when I realized they were from Command. The Bargman lens is a little bit more rounded on top and bottom--the Command is more rectangular.

With the taillights, I removed the OEM light fixture, but left the factory wedge shaped base that makes the lights perpendicular to the ground, in place.

[Yak]

I agree with the method mentioned above by JRTJH.

Alternatively you could possibly just replace the bulb with an LED of the same connection type.

If you wish to continue the way you're going or for future reference:

You can use a meter to find which black wire is positive and which is the ground, then hook it up with the white wire to the ground and the black to the positive.

OR

You can also strip a small amount off the black wire and connect the 2 wires (white and black) simply by touching them to the connections in the socket that is currently there and switch them around if needed to make the light work. Then you note which wire went to which. Make sure you have the lights on... just saying :)

With 12dc lighting, positive and ground make no difference.

[JRTJH]

With 12dc lighting, positive and ground make no difference.

That's not always correct. When converting to LED's, if the type of LED being installed is not "polarity neutral" they will not work unless installed with the negative/positive on the correct terminal of the LED.

You are correct, when installing incandescent bulbs/light fixtures and when installing "polarity neutral" LED's it makes no difference.

All of the LED's used in tail lights and clearance lights that I've installed are polarity sensitive and will only function when installed with the negative on the appropriate terminal. (they are Light Emitting Diodes and DC current only passes through a diode in one direction. )

[Dave in Va]

For what it's worth, although the Bargman lens seems snug when popped onto the Command fixture, it can be pulled off very easily. Not an option, IMO. I think I'll replace the taillights, though.

[Yak]

That's not always correct. When converting to LED's, if the type of LED being installed is not "polarity neutral" they will not work unless installed with the negative/positive on the correct terminal of the LED.

You are correct, when installing incandescent bulbs/light fixtures and when installing "polarity neutral" LED's it makes no difference.

All of the LED's used in tail lights and clearance lights that I've installed are polarity sensitive and will only function when installed with the negative on the appropriate terminal. (they are Light Emitting Diodes and DC current only passes through a diode in one direction. )
Forgot we were dealing with LEDs.

[dirt33]

On Saturday night when I was working on this project, I used a 9 volt battery to power the LED light so that I could figure out which wire was which. I could touch each of the two wires (1 white and 1 black) of the LED light to either side of the battery, did not matter in which direction, and the light would illuminate.

I have decided to go ahead and proceed with the full installation of this type of light for all of my marker and clearance lights, as opposed to using the LED upgrade kit. I like that this light has 4 diodes, and I like the lens better on this kit. I will just cut off the plug for the old light, use connectors and tape to wire this new light, and then use precision when caulking around these new fixtures.

I appreciate all help and advice given in this thread.

[hankpage]

I took the easy way out and just replaced the bulbs with LEDs. They work great and brighter than incandescent. Just have to use the same color LED as the lens for best brightness.

[webslave]

I took the easy way out and just replaced the bulbs with LEDs. They work great and brighter than incandescent. Just have to use the same color LED as the lens for best brightness.

I did the same...out with the old bulbs and in with red or yellow LEDs (based on lens color) for the clearance lamps. The tail lights, though, were Bargman units and they don't make a replacement LED board/lens unit for the style on my 318SAB. I had to replace the whole assembly with new LED units:

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_141486_0_a0da92f433e8c427756f7303f8853a64.jpg

Rather easy changing out the rear tail lights and they are much brighter. Would have been nice if they made an LED upgrade for the original assemblies (Command does make "upgrades" for theirs and I used them on a FunFinder I used to have), but, the new units worked out fine.

[dirt33]

OK, so I installed the first light today. Wiring it was fine. I definitely like this new fixture assembly, looks much nicer than the existing light. The only thing I am not satisfied with is my caulk job. It isn't horrible, but it isn't anywhere near as smooth as the caulk on the existing lights (which looks black and horrible by the way). I don't have much experience doing caulk work at all. Is there a tool to use to make a nice straight bead? I used my finger to try to smooth the bead out. Hopefully the following photo is big enough to see it clearly...

http://i61.tinypic.com/2upb9dv.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/28w2ujt.jpg

[denverpilot]

The best tool is a finger. Sometimes a little water on your finger helps. Sometimes a cheap disposable plastic glove.

[dirt33]

The best tool is a finger. Sometimes a little water on your finger helps. Sometimes a cheap disposable plastic glove.

Thanks denverpilot. I did use a rubber glove, but the gloves I had on hand are too thick of a material, the fingertip isn't flexible enough. I just threw away two boxes of really thin latex gloves because they tore too easily. Now, I wish I had them back.

I did think about water too and how that might help. I will get a thinner glove and use water next time. Thanks for the advice.

[Courtland]

OK, so I installed the first light today. Wiring it was fine. I definitely like this new fixture assembly, looks much nicer than the existing light. The only thing I am not satisfied with is my caulk job. It isn't horrible, but it isn't anywhere near as smooth as the caulk on the existing lights (which looks black and horrible by the way). I don't have much experience doing caulk work at all. Is there a tool to use to make a nice straight bead? I used my finger to try to smooth the bead out. Hopefully the following photo is big enough to see it clearly...


Try using a damp rag after you go over it with your finger to help clean it up. Remember that a small amount of caulk is all that is needed, once you start using your finger to spread it out a little goes a long way.

[denverpilot]

Also frankly some caulk behaves poorly and good quality stuff spreads easier. Don't know what type you're using but something I've noticed. A couple extra bucks on the caulk usually results in it acting better.

At the end of the day, no one is going to notice it up there but you. Most import part is keeping the water out.

But I do understand the desire to make it look good and craftsmanship. ;)

[dirt33]

Try using a damp rag after you go over it with your finger to help clean it up. Remember that a small amount of caulk is all that is needed, once you start using your finger to spread it out a little goes a long way.

Thanks for the tip. And I do know that I probably put the caulk on a little heavy. I was looking at the caulk of the existing lights, and while the bead looks excellent, boy it sure is thin. I found one place on one of the lights where there is a pinhole in the caulk. Because of that, I guess I sort of decided that I would apply the caulk a little heavier.

[dirt33]

Also frankly some caulk behaves poorly and good quality stuff spreads easier. Don't know what type you're using but something I've noticed. A couple extra bucks on the caulk usually results in it acting better.

At the end of the day, no one is going to notice it up there but you. Most import part is keeping the water out.

But I do understand the desire to make it look good and craftsmanship. ;)

I am using the ProFlex RV caulk. It seems to be a good quality product. It goes on nice and can be spread pretty easily. I just need to get "the touch" down. Glad that I started on one of the upper lights instead of one of the side lights at waist level. I did stand back from the trailer and look at the light I finished and realized that 100 people could walk by and likely no one would even notice the caulk. But, it definitely will bother me if I don't get better at it and do a better job on the remaining lights. As you said, the main thing is to keep water out. So, I certainly will err on the side of caution and maybe apply a bit heavier than it really needs to be.

[denverpilot]

Heavy isn't really needed. Just think about where the water would run and pool and make a nice path for it to flow away... :)

[Carrnutt]

I am using the ProFlex RV caulk. It seems to be a good quality product. It goes on nice and can be spread pretty easily. I just need to get "the touch" down. Glad that I started on one of the upper lights instead of one of the side lights at waist level. I did stand back from the trailer and look at the light I finished and realized that 100 people could walk by and likely no one would even notice the caulk. But, it definitely will bother me if I don't get better at it and do a better job on the remaining lights. As you said, the main thing is to keep water out. So, I certainly will err on the side of caution and maybe apply a bit heavier than it really needs to be.


Hey Dirt,

Just a quick note to let you know I walked by your rig and noticed someone did a crappy looking caulk job. :p

I'm sure it will keep the water out, that is the point of it anyways :thumbsup:

By the time you do the last one (or if you have) you'll be an expert. However you will lose some of that "touch" just in time to need it the next time. :D

[dirt33]

Right on Carrnutt. I know what you mean, the more I do the better I will get. Thanks again for the advice.

[Alpine]

For caulking around the house and for the rv... use painters (blue) tape and mask off the area you are caulking, on the fixture itself and leave a quarter inch distance (less or more) for caulk on the wall of your trailer. Immediately after caulking pull of the tape and presto... a straight line!

[dirt33]

That's a real good idea Alpine, thanks for mentioning it.

[billandjan]

ProFlex RV (made by Geocel) is what RV factories use.

Try soapy water.... it is more slippery, and works better than just plain water.

Several marker lights also worth considering are these:

https://ledtrailerlights-com.3dcartstores.com/cm-mcl32.htm

https://ledtrailerlights-com.3dcartstores.com/cm-1a-s68.htm

[kampfitt]

These are the marker lights I used, all sealed just wires out the back.These are much brighter than stock and weather can't get in. also The taillights I used much brighter than stock also. I'll get some pics at night and post them.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rectangular-marker-lamps/oval-led-truck-trailer-light-4in-pc-rated-led-marker-clearance-light-with-14-leds/587/
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rectangular-marker-lamps/oval-led-truck-trailer-light-4in-pc-rated-led-marker-clearance-light-with-14-leds/587/
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_146593_0_651c5f5dee7a062eb71a6c59e541e527.jpeg (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/kampfitt/media/image7.jpeg.html)

[billandjan]

https://ledtrailerlights-com.3dcartstores.com/cm-1a-s68.htm

These are sealed too, and a little less expensive.

[kampfitt]

Here are some pics of my install
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_147014_0_19e1b37519f7a3b93815c600193c6495.jpg (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/kampfitt/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141007_164342_764.jpg.html)
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_147014_1_4e3503e47063f605addf2f255039135c.jpg (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/kampfitt/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141007_174532_162.jpg.html)
http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_147014_2_897c501fae16770985c06b2161824cf6.jpg (http://s1193.photobucket.com/user/kampfitt/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141007_174557_799.jpg.html)

[dirt33]

Looks good kampfitt, thanks for posting.

[kampfitt]

The pictures really don't do the lights justice , they are much brighter than stock and the brake/turn are Great!! People actually let you move over when you have turn signal on! the marker light are great also.