Need to know I understand solar/inverter?

[lifecamper]

Thinking of adding solar to my Springdale 279 5wh. I believe I can go as follows: change to AGM battery. Add pure sine wave inverter( I can buy a 2500W/5000W for $200) then a portable 200W Solar panel set up. Hook the inverter to the battery and plug in the shore power to inverter outlet. Hook the solar charger to battery. If I am correct the solar will keep the battery charged and the inverter will supply the AC power to the trailer. there will be limitations to what can be used but basically just want to use computer/TV/coffee maker. Would appreciate any suggestions and let me know if I am thinking right? Thanks in advance. I have a generator for emergency needs and have changed to all LED lights.(tx)

[Festus2]

Don't forget that all of this "power" you will need - eventually comes from your battery or batteries. The more demand you place on it, the quicker it will deplete. Using your computer or TV won't place too much demand on it but a coffee maker at say, 1500W, certainly will.
You didn't mention what kind of a battery set up you will have - a single 12V AGM? Two 12v? 6Volts? or ????

Also, don't forget that the efficiency of your solar panel depends heavily on sunlight. Some panels do better in cloudy conditions than others but don't expect the panel to put out 200W all the time. That rating is under optimum conditions.

[lifecamper]

My intention is to use one good AGM battery. What I have read is that the AGM battery will handle the charge/discharge best. I am also wondering if the shore power is plugged into the inverter it will run the in house charger. Will that work in conjunction with the solar charger? I figure to run the frig on propane as well as the WH. I have 3- 30# and 2-20# propane cyl on board. My portable gen is powered by LP. Hopefully there will be no need for the AC.

[Festus2]

Another way of configuring your set up is to:
1) Connect the solar panel to the battery - using of course, a regulator between the two so that you don't overcharge the battery.
2) Connect your inverter as close as possible to the battery using heavy gauge wires.
3) Run an extension cord from the inverter into your RV.
4) Use the extension cord to operate the computer, TV and any other SMALL draw items.

Your battery will always be charging. The disadvantage of this hookup is that you will end up with an extension cord or cords inside your RV which may be a bit of a nuisance.
But you don't have the RV's converter/battery charger in the loop.
In the hookup you talk about, wouldn't the battery be getting charged from two sources - the solar panel and the RV's converter? Not a good situation!

[Yosemitebob]

Your in-house converter and your solar will tend to work against each other. Perhaps adding a switch to cut one or the other out when hooked up to shore power. The Solar will probably be better at charging with what you specked out. If both are running, one will look at the other and say, oh, I don't need to supply power as it is already there. Others have had problems with this until we figured it out.

[lifecamper]

My thought was that the in house charger only works when needed and if the solar has a limiter on it then the battery would not over charge, but I wondered if the draw from the in house charger coming from the inverter would create a problem. I think it would be easy enough to put a switch on the in house charger and just eliminate it from the loop.

[Festus2]

I don't think the regulator for the solar panel completely shuts down any charging that is taking place. It may, but my understanding is that it simply controls or regulates the amount of amps getting to the battery.

The switch on the converter would work too - removing it from the loop.

[hankaye]

lifecamper, Howdy;

On another forum I haunt http://tnttt.com/ you can go to their
HOME PAGE and in the middle of the header is a Google Search Box.
Type in Solar Power then scroll down a little ways and you'll find
enough information to thoroughly confuse you. Those folks really
get into solar and there is a huge amount of info there. Oh, you
don't have to join to access the search box or it's results

hankaye

[SkiSmuggs]

Thinking of adding solar to my Springdale 279 5wh. I believe I can go as follows: change to AGM battery. Add pure sine wave inverter( I can buy a 2500W/5000W for $200) then a portable 200W Solar panel set up. Hook the inverter to the battery and plug in the shore power to inverter outlet. Hook the solar charger to battery. If I am correct the solar will keep the battery charged and the inverter will supply the AC power to the trailer. there will be limitations to what can be used but basically just want to use computer/TV/coffee maker. Would appreciate any suggestions and let me know if I am thinking right? Thanks in advance. I have a generator for emergency needs and have changed to all LED lights.(tx)
I'm confused by "plug in the shore power to inverter outlet". Why would you do that? If I understand it, you plan to run 120v INTO the inverter outlet or did I misunderstand what you were saying? Also, a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries (Trojan T-105) might be a better idea than the single 12-volt.
And I had asked on another forum if the built-in charger and solar charger would have a conflict and the answer was that it should be no problem with current technology.
I am doing the dual golf cart conversion this weekend and eventually plan to put an inverter in the adjacent basement, use an extension cord for outside things like the leaf blower to clean my slide tops with and try to run an outlet to my entertainment center inside. I think a 300w Samlex should be enough for that.
I am just using a Renogy 100w portable solar panel at this point.

[lifecamper]

The reason for plugging in the shore power is to utilize all of the now 110V plugins as well as the microwave, if possible,without having to wire in a plug-in or extension. If this is possible then my outside plug-in would work for equipment like the leaf blower, etc. I know of someone that is doing just that at this time. She had someone hook it all up and I don't feel comfortable asking her to let me crawl all over her outfit to see what was done. Question: since I have some extra room would two six volt batteries be better or I could get two 12V and run them parallel?

[SkiSmuggs]

The reason for plugging in the shore power is to utilize all of the now 110V plugins as well as the microwave, if possible,without having to wire in a plug-in or extension. If this is possible then my outside plug-in would work for equipment like the leaf blower, etc. I know of someone that is doing just that at this time. She had someone hook it all up and I don't feel comfortable asking her to let me crawl all over her outfit to see what was done. Question: since I have some extra room would two six volt batteries be better or I could get two 12V and run them parallel?
I got it! The shore power cable from your RV not the campground pedestal. I would need more that 300w to do that!
You can do two 12v in parallel or two 6v in series, but the golf cart batteries will last 6-10 years and can be discharged further than the 12v plus yield more amp hours.

[lifecamper]

It appears the batteries can be the key to everything coming together and working properly. I have located 12V solar storage batteries that are rated 125AH. Thinking two in a parallel configuration(wish I could squeeze 3 in but just not enough room).1500W inverter with remote has a surge of 3000W but should run all I need. Have to be able to run 1000W microwave for up to 8 min. other than that just TV, Computer, Keurig for morning coffee. Just me and the dog so no hair dryers or other such. Looking for portable solar that will handle the recharging and store in the basement when traveling. Going to isolate the in house battery charger with a 10 amp breaker(opening is available in the panel).

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

It appears the batteries can be the key to everything coming together and working properly. I have located 12V solar storage batteries that are rated 125AH. Thinking two in a parallel configuration(wish I could squeeze 3 in but just not enough room).1500W inverter with remote has a surge of 3000W but should run all I need. Have to be able to run 1000W microwave for up to 8 min. other than that just TV, Computer, Keurig for morning coffee. Just me and the dog so no hair dryers or other such. Looking for portable solar that will handle the recharging and store in the basement when traveling. Going to isolate the in house battery charger with a 10 amp breaker(opening is available in the panel).

Man this sounds cool IF the solar array can really keep up with the draw. I wonder why I've never heard of anyone doing this before?

I just recently added a remote controlled 1000W inverter and switched to 2 6V GCBs but I never thought of this so I ran wire into the trailer from the inverter and added new outlets so when I turn on the inverter those specific outlets have power. So far I have run one to the entertainment center and one to the kitchen. I intend to run another into the pass through, in case I need to run the air compressor on the road, one to the bedroom, next to the TV, and one more in the bathroom.

I really hope to hear how this works out for you. Sounds ingenious if the solar array can keep the batteries charged. Please keep us updated.

[WaltBennett]

Responding to a couple of things:

I've found it doesn't matter if there's more than one charging thing connected to your battery bank. They will throttle down the amps and volts together. While I've completely turned my converter off, I've the inverter and the (400 watts of panels) solar charger both charging four T-105s at the same time. My Trimetric reads 13.4v and 1 to 2 amps max if the batteries are charged - just a float amount. The inverter passes through shore power and transfers to inverting if it's lost. It will charge the batteries by itself at night and along with the solar during the day if there's shore power, but obviously the solar charger is the only one charging during the day without shore power (driving down the road too).

I really doubt you'll get much life out of a single AGM - even a really good one as they don't have the amp hours you'll need to do much. Two might work if you're prudent in what you use. I priced AGM vs. old style lead acid and went the other way. I've got enough battery power to microwave popcorn, watch a movie or two on the 40" flatscreen with home theater going, use my PC, and run a table fan all night with no problem. Yes, I've had to vent them and yes, I've got to check the water level every month, but I saved at least $600 to $800.

Like someone else said, a coffee maker will really pull some watts since there's a heating element inside. Your best bet is to get an old fashioned percolating style pot at somewhere that sells camping things, and use propane to make the morning cup. Your said you run the refer on propane and that's good because it also uses a heating element and draws something like 500 to 1000 watts - much more than I thought it would.

[lifecamper]

I'm beginning to see what ya mean about batteries. Very expensive. I'm now thinking of 6V golf cart batteries. I have room for 4 and know I need to vent. I ran my coffee maker on my 4000W generator and could really feel the draw so I have a great old cowboy perkalater:0) for morning coffee. Wanting to find a good portable solar generator that I can store in basement of 5th wheel when on the road. I don't want to install on roof.

[jsmith948]

You might try doing a forum search for invertors or invertor power. There is a thread by JohnnyFry that describes how he used a DPDT coil operated switch that enabled him to power his 120V receptacles (one circuit) with an invertor. When shore power is present, the coil in the switch is energized and the invertor power is automatically disconnected and that circuit is then powered normally.

[SkiSmuggs]

I'm beginning to see what ya mean about batteries. Very expensive. I'm now thinking of 6V golf cart batteries. I have room for 4 and know I need to vent. I ran my coffee maker on my 4000W generator and could really feel the draw so I have a great old cowboy perkalater:0) for morning coffee. Wanting to find a good portable solar generator that I can store in basement of 5th wheel when on the road. I don't want to install on roof.

I recently got a Renogy 100 Watt suitcase portable that fits in my front storage/battery compartment.
Melitta has a decent 10 cup drip unit for under $15.

[Festus2]

lifecamper -----

Also not wanting to install our 85w solar panel on the roof, I built a track and fastened it to the aluminum floor joists that run from side-to-side in our passenger side front storage compartment of our 5th wheel. I simply fit it in the track, push it in and it rests quite nicely above the floor of the storage compartment. It is out of the way, secure and takes up hardly any space.

I also built a "sandwich board" and rest the panel on it when it is outside. It can be moved so that it takes advantage of the sun's position in the sky. The disadvantage of this system is that it is less secure from theft and there is also the cord running along the ground from the solar panel into the RV.

[lifecamper]

Just bought 4 Trojan T-105 6V batteries. Going to set up series/parallel for the 12 v output. Now looking for the correct inverter and solar setup. Found a complete kit for $300 on e-bay 2 100W panels with control etc. aprox. 800WH/day will have to build my own frame unless anyone here knows a better solar set up? I'm thinking a 1500W pure sine inverter would be sufficient for my needs.

[Festus2]

Just bought 4 Trojan T-105 6V batteries. I'm thinking a 1500W pure sine inverter would be sufficient for my needs.

lifecamper
With that set up, I'd be tempted to go with something bigger than 1500W for your inverter. I realize, of course, that you didn't mention what your "needs" were so 1500W may be sufficient but that wattage is on the "edge" of many small appliances like toasters, heaters, hair dryers, and other similar items.
Have you given any thought to increasing it to 1750 or 2000W??

[lifecamper]

Yes sir, now looking at 2000W/4000w surge etc.

[lifecamper]

Just installed 4 Trojan T-105's in series/parallel. Have found a 2000W inverter but need to wait to get the funds.

[Festus2]

Just installed 4 Trojan T-105's in series/parallel. Have found a 2000W inverter but need to wait to get the funds.

After buying 4 Trojans, I can understand why you "need to wait to get the funds". :D

[WaltBennett]

Just installed 4 Trojan T-105's in series/parallel. Have found a 2000W inverter but need to wait to get the funds.

I was looking for a 2kw one when I found my 3kw AIMS on eBay - was the only bidder and got it to home for only $615. Although I'd already put in a Morningstar Tristar-45 solar charger, this model AIMS also has a battery charger AND a solar charger built in. It's a beast at almost 80 lbs, but hopefully will last as I'll never be using it at full capacity.

[lifecamper]

I found a 2000W with remote for $305 free ship and no tax. Just have to wait for funds to arrive. I will then start the search for a 100W or larger suitcase solar charger that will store in the basement of my Springdale.

[SkiSmuggs]

Having recently purchased a suitcase solar charger from Renogy and then reading more about how the charger should be close to the batteries, I would do it different next time; i.e., purchase the suitcase unit WITHOUT a charger, buy a separate 30-40 amp charger and mount it in the storage bay adjacent to the batteries with stout cables and get 50' of solar cable, M4 connectors so that I could put my panels where I needed them instead of being constrained to the 15' that may not have sun. And that charger would be good for roof panels if you decided to add some later.
BTW, I saw a drawing of how to connect 2 suitcase solar kits if you have 4 batteries - just connect one to the same terminals as the pos/neg house cables and the other to the inside pos/neg terminals. That way they don't interfere with each other. The 12-volt connection is below.
And if you get them without chargers, combine them before connecting to the charger.
http://thewynns.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Connecting-two-PSK-to-two-12-volt-batteries.jpg

[lifecamper]

I don't think that connection would work for me as I now have four 6V Trojan T-105's in Series Parallel. A friend of mine said the same thing about buying a controller and mounting it close to the batteries then get the portable solar panels and a long connection cable. My next step is to get the inverter and get it installed and working then deal with the solar charger. I'm going to do away with the long shore line that stores in by the panel and put in a power input with a twist lock then make a short cable to go to my generator and a line to run to the inverter. Then my left over shore line will become a long power line when shore power is in use.

[SkiSmuggs]

I don't think that connection would work for me as I now have four 6V Trojan T-105's in Series Parallel. A friend of mine said the same thing about buying a controller and mounting it close to the batteries then get the portable solar panels and a long connection cable. My next step is to get the inverter and get it installed and working then deal with the solar charger.
Yes, saw your T-105 install. I just did 2 and that connection won't work for me either, but I think the twin 12v connection may be the same concept as the quad 6v connection, but haven't really thought it through.
While changing parameters in my Renogy solar charger to the Trojan specs, it looked like I could just remove the controller and mount it in the trailer. I would just need to get the proper connectors to switch it and 50' of solar cable.

I also have the OEM WFCO 8955 charger/converter that is by spec much weaker than the Trojans would like, plus many report that it is reluctant to go into boost mode for quick charging. I am thinking about the PowerMax Boondocker 4-stage as a direct replacement and that is a higher priority. I have a Bestek 300w inverter with alligator clips that I could clip to the batteries to power the leaf blower I use to clear the tops of my slides prior to retraction. The PowerMax Boondocker should do a better job of maintaining the batteries through the winter as removing multiple heavy batteries is a chore at my age.
http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-Main-Board-Assembly-for-WFCO-8955_c_196.html

Someone suggested just doing a battery disconnect and using a Battery Minder instead of the WFCO converter. That sounds like a great idea.