Dexter E-Z Flex

[Bob Landry]

Ordered the kit today, $155 plus shipping, picked up the ball joint service kit from Harbor Freight, and still need to get a bottle jack from Wally World. My brother has jack stand, so I don't have to buy those. Even with buying the stuff to do it, it's hundreds of $$$ cheaper than having the dealer do it..

The trailer came with LCI(Lippert) equalizers with the part name Trail Aire. I looked then up and found them on Lipperts website, but the ones that came on the trailer did not look anything like the ones on their site. I suppose it's either a cheaper version or they are a discontinued item that Keystone got deal on.

[Sherwood]

The hardest part, I found, was driving in the new bolts through the outer spring hangers opposite of the equalizer. The bolts were pretty tough to seat all the way through the knurls. Other than that, pretty straight forward and easy. And yes, it is cheaper even when you have to purchase new tools. Save money, great upgrade and new tools!

[halfprice]

The hardest part, I found, was driving in the new bolts through the outer spring hangers opposite of the equalizer. The bolts were pretty tough to seat all the way through the knurls. Other than that, pretty straight forward and easy. And yes, it is cheaper even when you have to purchase new tools. Save money, great upgrade and new tools!

I agree that was the hardest part. I think the key is to use a 12" c-clamp to slowly work them in. I used an 8" c-clap which worked but it didn't have the extra leverage a 12" would of had.

Jerry

[therink]

Fyi- when I installed the ez flex kit on my last fiver, iI was able to loan the ball joint tool set from Advanced Auto parts store for nothing (free loaner). No strings attached.

[Sherwood]

I agree that was the hardest part. I think the key is to use a 12" c-clamp to slowly work them in. I used an 8" c-clap which worked but it didn't have the extra leverage a 12" would of had.

Jerry
I started to use my c-clamp and it didn't work for me. I had to use either my big framing hammer or my 5 pound hammer. Yes, it was that hard.:banghead: After they finally seated, I had to give at least a couple of them a few whacks to straighten the hangers up a tad. But I read here that it worked for some people which I wished it worked for me.

[jtyphoid]

I installed one side of my triple axle this past weekend. Even a ball joint press won't work easily when the hanger is twisted such that the holes don't line up.

One hanger was perfect, one was a little bit twisted, and one was quite a bit off.

I didn't see any signs of damage, so I suspect that the poor alignment happened at the factory.

I had to unbolt the leaf springs from the axles and move the springs toward or away from the trailer centerline (depending on which way the hanger was twisted) to help line up the bolts so that I could drive them in. This sounds complicated, but it wasn't hard to do once I figured it out.

[rjsurfer]

I installed one side of my triple axle this past weekend. Even a ball joint press won't work easily when the hanger is twisted such that the holes don't line up.

One hanger was perfect, one was a little bit twisted, and one was quite a bit off.

I didn't see any signs of damage, so I suspect that the poor alignment happened at the factory.

I had to unbolt the leaf springs from the axles and move the springs toward or away from the trailer centerline (depending on which way the hanger was twisted) to help line up the bolts so that I could drive them in. This sounds complicated, but it wasn't hard to do once I figured it out.

I have my kit still sitting in the box just reading up on everyone's experiences.

Won't you change the alignment if you move the springs in relation to the axle to get the bolts to install?

Ron

[jtyphoid]

Won't you change the alignment if you move the springs in relation to the axle to get the bolts to install?

Ron

I was initially worried about that, but it wasn't a problem. Once the bolts were aligned and driven in, there was enough play to easily move the springs back to their original position.

I have AL-KO axles, and the spring position is fixed by bosses welded to the axle, so I had no choice but to put the springs right back where they were.

I don't know if other axle brands, like Dexter, are the same.

[Bob Landry]

The new bushings are going to be the same thickness as the originals, so unless you loosen orremove the U-bolts, and thee's no reason to do that, the alignment should not change.

[maxx1963]

I installed my triple axle kit about 2 weeks ago. Took it out for the first trip last weekend, I could not believe the difference!! it now takes bumps way better!

[hankpage]

I was initially worried about that, but it wasn't a problem. Once the bolts were aligned and driven in, there was enough play to easily move the springs back to their original position.

I have AL-KO axles, and the spring position is fixed by bosses welded to the axle, so I had no choice but to put the springs right back where they were.

I don't know if other axle brands, like Dexter, are the same.

The problem with triple axles (and even doubles sometimes) is when the trailer is stored all of the side stress is not relieved from the tires when parked. You have to move the trailer straight forward and back a few times to relieve this pressure. Lifting only one side of the trailer may cause the axles to twist slightly and make the holes not line up. (ask me how I know this) Moving straight forward and back or lifting both sides of the trailer will make things line up without moving springs.
The way you did it should have no effect on alignment but storing the trailer with the side stress on the wheels is not good. If possible try to get the wheels as straight as you can. JM2¢, Hank

[Little Guy]

Thanks Hank! That was a great tip.

[jtyphoid]

Moving straight forward and back or lifting both sides of the trailer will make things line up without moving springs.

Certainly true and good advise.

In my case, unfortunately, the springs were straight but the hangers weren't. The inside and outside of the hangers were parallel, but the holes of two of the hangers were not exactly across from each other.

This meant that those bolts had to go in just slightly angled. Without that angle, the shoulder of the bolt was catching the edge of the opposite hole. If I'd had a helper to guide the opposite side through the hole as I was driving the bolt in, I don't think that I would have needed to unbolt the springs from the axles.

[fred1609]

I had ours replaced after an inspection and was shocked at the excessive wear on the nylon/plastic bushing.......The new ones are beefier and of course can be lubed. Should be a warning for folks have an inspection done.

[rjsurfer]

I was initially worried about that, but it wasn't a problem. Once the bolts were aligned and driven in, there was enough play to easily move the springs back to their original position.

I have AL-KO axles, and the spring position is fixed by bosses welded to the axle, so I had no choice but to put the springs right back where they were.

I don't know if other axle brands, like Dexter, are the same.

Thanks for the reply, makes more sense now.

Ron W.

[Bob Landry]

I received the kit today and was looking at the wet bolt/hanger assemblies that come pre-assembled. The wet bolt is pressed in so that the grease hole is 90 degrees to the hanger, but when I hold it up to the position that I thing it's actually going to be hanging, the grease hole is between 3-4 o'clock instead of on the horizontal axis that they should be on. I'm wondering how critical this is and if I should remove the wet bolts and reinstall them in a better position. I put in a call to Dexter, but it was too late in the day and I probably won't hear from them until tomorrow.

[trucker LOU]

Hey Bob, after reading about "my wet bolts won't take grease" I counter bored & relieved the grease channel. Also I bench tested before install & found 2 bad zerks, Have fun---Lou---

[Bob Landry]

Hey Bob, after reading about "my wet bolts won't take grease" I counter bored & relieved the grease channel. Also I bench tested before install & found 2 bad zerks, Have fun---Lou---

Yes, I'm going to check each zerk before I take anything apart.

[hankpage]

I received the kit today and was looking at the wet bolt/hanger assemblies that come pre-assembled. The wet bolt is pressed in so that the grease hole is 90 degrees to the hanger, but when I hold it up to the position that I thing it's actually going to be hanging, the grease hole is between 3-4 o'clock instead of on the horizontal axis that they should be on. I'm wondering how critical this is and if I should remove the wet bolts and reinstall them in a better position. I put in a call to Dexter, but it was too late in the day and I probably won't hear from them until tomorrow.

Bob, Check the directions ... If I remember correctly, the only one that is critical is the the one through the spring eye. Because of the way the spring eye is shaped the bushing may egg shape slightly and block the grease port if it is not positioned correctly. On the others the load seems fairly equal all around. Mine have been on a few years and no problem greasing. JM2¢, Hank

[bobbecky]

I believe I read the grease hole should be installed at about the 3 or 9 o'clock position, so the loading on the bolt does not block the hole and make it next to near impossible to grease the bolt/bushing assembly. I would think this applies to all the bolts, as they all bear the weight of the trailer. I also read, that some folks have chased the hole in the bushing with a reamer the same size as the bolt after installation, just in case the bushing becomes distorted during installation.

[Learnites]

maxx, question for you. Looks like you have a very nice setup. I just bought a new 2015 GMC 2500HD and I am a bit worried about pulling something as heavy as the Fusion.(Dry Hitch weight) Looking at the numbers, I am guessing you are well over the tow vehicle max gross weight but under rear axle and combined weight. Did you add air bags to keep it level? What suspension changes if any have you made? Any recommendations? I was thinking of something like yours or a Raptor 300mp. Did you add a 3rd axle on the trailer?

Thanks for your time.
Jim

Thanks Jim

[Jim7411]

Thanks for all the tips I got from you folks! I finally got around to replacing all the suspension bolts, as well as installing shocks on my Laredo. The first side went pretty slow since I wasn't too sure what I was doing, but the second side went much faster. Using the ball joint press certainly made pressing the bushings in much easier. Also, using a reamer to size them after they were pressed in made a huge difference. The shocks went in relatively easy. Good clear instructions, but as with all "kits", there's always something unexpected. In my case, it was the propane line. I had to disconnect it and move it out of the way so I could bolt the shock bracket to the frame, and then replace it in a slightly different location. When I was younger/poorer, I would do all kind of upgrades/modifications to my car and motorcycle, but as I grew older it got easier to just pay someone to do the dirty work. I have to admit that I really enjoyed working on the trailer myself! (tx)

[Bob Landry]

I've had the E-Z Flex kit for mine since back in August. I don't know if I've been too busy to install it or it's just a lack of ambition. I'm leaning towards the latter. It's sitting in my storage room along with the ball joint press. It's not that large a project, I just need to get off of my butt and do it.
I thought about just taking the kit and the trailer to my dealer and have them do it, but I'm afraid Gilligan would get in a rush to "get to the next job" and use an impact gun to remove everything and ruin the splines on the brackets. I'll get around to it.

[Desert185]

Its actually a pretty straightforward endeavor if you have any mechanical aptitude. I found doing the equalizer before doing one spring end at a time, and then doing the opposite side was the key. If you drop both axles from the trailer, the process becomes much more difficult. When done the way I describe alignment is simple and may only require a tapered punch and a short pry bar on the spring ends. Once you do one side, the opposite side will go much faster.

Use the ball joint tool to press the new bolts rather than hammer them.

Don't "reclock" the preassembled shackles. Rotate them at the spring end positions to see which position results in as close to 3 or 9 o'clock the grease holes will be when installed. If you disassemble them, you will be creating unnecessary grief for yourself.

Squirt a bit of grease into the wetbolts via the zerk before installing them through the bushings. This checks the zerks and prelubes the bushings.

The bronze bushings in the kit can be easily tapped into place with a hammer by using one of the old bolts that has had the striations on the bolt near the head ground smooth.

If your grease gun has a hose, the wetbolt zerk fittings can be placed on the outside. Inspite of that, I assembled my wetbolts with the zerks on the inside so I have to slide underneath to lube them and have a better vantage point for inspecting the suspension when lubing is called for.

After something like 3,000 miles with the kit installed, I can say the process is worth every penny and effort. Alignment for me wasn't an issue. The new, balanced Maxxis tires are tracking true. I'm glad I did this with very few miles on the SRX as the damage to the nylon bushings was surprising.

[Larry1013]

I have ordered and have received the E-Z Flex kit my dual axle 5th wheel trailer. At this time awaiting some warmer weather to arrive.

My concerns are related to lifting the trailer to install the kit. I have been toying with 'levering' the trailer with the front landing legs.

Asking for opinions on whether this is a wise move or not. I have thought about using the the front legs to lower the trailer to get the rear of the trailer high enough to block it with wood blocks and jack stands on both sides. Then raise the front of the trailer with the landing legs to get the needed height.

Are the legs and associated mechanism (gears) strong enough to do this?

Also in the plans are to replace the straight grease fitting with 90* fitting to make it easier to grease from the outboard side with or without a flex hose on grease gun.

Thanks in advance for any helpful info.

[Desert185]

You don't to jack the trailer up. Jack on the spring ubolt at the axle with a bottle jack and compress the springs enough to remove the tires. Leave the landing gear and rear stabilizer jacks in their normally deployed position and do one side at a time with the other side chocked. Use jack stands on the frame forward and aft of the axles as added support with the tires removed and do the equalizer first, then each spring end one at a time so everything stays lined up as much as possible.

This how I did it.

P.S. See post#24, above.

[Larry1013]

You don't to jack the trailer up. Jack on the spring ubolt at the axle with a bottle jack and compress the springs enough to remove the tires. Leave the landing gear and rear stabilizer jacks in their normally deployed position and do one side at a time with the other side chocked. Use jack stands on the frame forward and aft of the axles as added support with the tires removed.

This how I did it.

Sounds good. Wasn't quite sure what method most were using. Thought I might be "over engineering" or "over thinking" it. Thanks

[Larry1013]

Was a nice sunny warm day here in Alabama, so decided to tackle the EZ-Flex install.

It went a lot easier and quicker than I imagined. I was expecting an all day affair to say the least. I was able to change all items out on both sides in approximately 3 and half hours. This included the jacking/levering of 5'r.

Thanks for the input guys. Now to load it up and go some place warm.