Best brand of tank heating blankets

[jaeger63]

I'll be using my toy hauler for hunting in the Rocky Mountains. I'd like to put heating blankets on my holding tanks and was wondering what the best brands are. An internet search shows many choices and brands. Id also be interested in hearing from those who have put the blankets on their tanks and how they performed in freezing temps. Thanks much

[geo]

I'll be using my toy hauler for hunting in the Rocky Mountains. I'd like to put heating blankets on my holding tanks and was wondering what the best brands are. An internet search shows many choices and brands. Id also be interested in hearing from those who have put the blankets on their tanks and how they performed in freezing temps. Thanks much

Jaeger63 -

Ask and you shall receive. I see several members and moderators rolling their eyes all ready!!!! :rolleyes: So, get a cup . . . er, thermos . . . of coffee, have a seat, and enjoy reading! It will wear you out! :D

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4829
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4921
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4922
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5843
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5842
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5841
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5810


OK, time for a nap!

Based upon the few cold nights we spent in the Alpine, and the weeks of cold days and nights we have spent in a similarly insulated SOB fiver, I would guess that one could be quite comfortable, with unfrozen tanks, with the above mods (in Keystone's case) to around -15F to -20F (-26C to -28C). I can definitely say that we were quite comfortable at 8F (-13C). Admittedly, we did have a tower 1500 watt ceramic heater (set at 68F) running in the living area, a short tower 750 watt ceramic heater on low in the bedroom, and a small 350 watt oil-filled heater in the basement set on low. The propane furnace would run about 5 minutes or so three to four times an hour. We have a Conrad E-hose, and I left the light on in the Waterworks area. The living space was very comfortable for sleeping and daytime, and the underbelly never dropped below 48F (9C). The longest time period we have spent below freezing so far is six days. (That was accompanied by 6 inches of ice!) Our tanks never froze and neither did our fresh water supply. We did not leave the faucets running or dripping - there was no need. During the coldest time, I did close the gray tank and dumped it once a day to prevent the sewer from freezing solid internally.

Ron

(aka - Lord of the Underbelly)

[jaeger63]

Geo,
How much drain does all the heating blankets put on your batteries? Did you pretty much have to run your generator non-stop to keep your batteries charged? Thanks much for the extremely informative how-to on insulating the underbelly!

[geo]

Geo,
How much drain does all the heating blankets put on your batteries? Did you pretty much have to run your generator non-stop to keep your batteries charged? Thanks much for the extremely informative how-to on insulating the underbelly!

Jaeger63 -

Well, the 12VDC tank heater will put quite a draw on the batteries. For instance, I used a UltraHeat Model 2400 (good for up to 60 gallons) on the fresh water tank. This is a 12VDC heater and it draws 11.8 amps when on. But let me continue . . .

Of course, my purpose with the tank heaters was to keep the tanks from freezing. But as my DW and I were planning on full-timing, the thought was that we would primarily be WITH electrical hook-up if not full hook-up. So, my plan was to use a 12VDC heater on the fresh water tank along side a 120VAC heater on the same fresh water tank. (The 120VAC draws only 1.37 amps.) Yes, UltraHeat does make a dual 12VDC/120VAC tank heater, but I wanted to have two units in case one failed, that would be the only one needing replacement. When traveling in cold weather, the 12VDC tank heater would provided heat to the fresh water tank while moving, and it could provide extra heat if needed when parked. Of course, the 120VAC heaters draw much less current, so I installed 120VAC heaters on the two gray, the black, and as mentioned - the fresh water.

My thoughts were that if we needed fresh water, that tank would need the dual system. The gray and black tanks would not need as much heat since one could just dump some pink antifreeze down the drain after dumping the tanks. I didn't see the need to provide 12VDC heat to those tanks. But the whole insulation, not only to provide "better warmth" inside the Alpine, also provided a better heated area for the tanks. In other words, the insulation went "outside" the tanks so the tanks were more "inside" the RV. As I also installed the radon fan circulation system (initially it was a 12VDC marine inboard exhaust fan), it would force warmed air back into the tank areas and also along the piping runs. Thus, I was able to utilize both the propane furnace heat and any electric heater heat from the living area to heat the tank areas. This also meant that the tank heaters would be secondary in keeping the tanks "liquid".

As you mention, running the generator to convert AC into DC, then heat the tanks with DC is pretty inefficient. One would be better served by using 120VAC to heat the tanks. The fresh water tank is the key here - you can't put pink antifreeze in the water you intend to use. But you CAN put pink antifreeze in the water you plan to dump!

I would dare say that if you insulated the tanks such that they are "inside" the heated RV area, as I did, then you have "cold hardened" the tanks quite a bit. Secondly, if you have a generator, you probably don't need to think about having to supply constant heat to all the tanks. Insulate the underbelly, but around the tanks, have "inside" air circulation - use a 12VDC plenum fan or marine exhaust fan (write up on that 12VDC system is in the Mods, circa 2010(?)) - to keep the pipes, and thus the tanks, warm. Isolate the underbelly "void" area from the underbelly tank area. Use pink antifreeze in the gray/black tanks to lower the freezing temperature of the liquids within. Then, as you mention the generator, say you run the generator every few hours, then use the 120VAC tank heaters during that period in case the tanks need a "little warming".

The reason I mentioned the year above is that the Search function appears to only search back around 500 threads or so. So, if what you are searching for is beyond that number of threads, the Search function doesn't "see" it. I believe that 12VDC fan post was late 2010/early 2011. Let me know if you can't find it.

Ron

[jaeger63]

Geo,
Thanks much for the great info!. Please excuse my ignorance as I'm a new first time RV owner as well as not being real savvy with electricity. I'd like to ask a few more questions if I may. I have a Fuzion toy hauler with an on-board generator. My questions are: So when I'm running the generator I could run the 120VAC heating pads? When the generator is off and and only pulling off battery power I would have to use the 12 VDC pads? Do you feel that most RV dealers would have folks competent enough to wire these heating pads for me as I don't feel this would be within my scope of practice? I feel confident I could put the insulation in the underbelly but I'd rather leave electrical work to a professional. Thanks much

[geo]

Geo,
Thanks much for the great info!. Please excuse my ignorance as I'm a new first time RV owner as well as not being real savvy with electricity. I'd like to ask a few more questions if I may. I have a Fuzion toy hauler with an on-board generator. My questions are: So when I'm running the generator I could run the 120VAC heating pads? When the generator is off and and only pulling off battery power I would have to use the 12 VDC pads? Do you feel that most RV dealers would have folks competent enough to wire these heating pads for me as I don't feel this would be within my scope of practice? I feel confident I could put the insulation in the underbelly but I'd rather leave electrical work to a professional. Thanks much

Yes, when the generator is running, you would heat the tanks with the 120VAC pads. They only pull a little over an amp each. But the 12VDC pads pull a lot of amps! Over 10 amps each. I doubt if you have the space in the breaker/fuse box to hook up four 12VDC pads. Besides, that would be around 50 amps draw, the batteries wouldn't last long. It's an Ohm's Law thing. Really, trying to run more than one 12VDC heater is impractical because of the current draw. Better to use 120VAC and then have one small 12VDC for when you are moving, as described.

Hmm, probably make a dealer mad here. Would there be a dealer competent enough? Well, probably, but it would probably take a year for a dealer to install them! Besides, to install the heaters, the coroplast will need to be dropped, and if the coroplast is dropped, the the insulation needs to be installed. If you aren't comfortable with electricity, and if you don't have an electrician/handyman buddy, maybe find a RV repair that would drop the coroplast, install the tank heaters and controls, then help you install the insulation (so much better that doing it by yourself!), then reinstall the coroplast. It would be less expensive and definitely quicker than using a dealer! You could print the posts and pictures to "show what you want done".

Oh, and on a toyhauler, do not insulate around the fuel tank! You want it to "be outside"! And vented to the outside!

Ron

[mnc516]

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