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canesfan
02-19-2014, 12:13 PM
So I knew this going in, I don't know why they have to do this, but there is no gravity fill for the fresh water tank on my Raptor. No, there is not, believe me (the Fuzions have them, the Raptors (now) do not). You must have a source with water pressure in order to engage the check valve in the city water inlet to fill the tank.

Without going to the expense of buying a pump and all, all I really need is a way to "bypass" the check valve while dumping water from a container into the tank. I was thinking maybe taking the curved screen strainer out, turning it around and putting it back in and maybe having that push the check valve in. Don't know if it would work or not, if its even long enough or stiff enough. Any other ideas of a simple way to get around this?

bobbecky
02-19-2014, 01:19 PM
It sounds like you are doing some dry camping, so you might as well spend the $40 at Harbor Freight to get a 12V water pump to add water to your trailer. Wouldn't think it wise to mess with the plumbing with the unit under warranty. There are also collapsible water tanks available that can be used to haul the water too, but not sure where to get them. I guess they thought this was an improvement, but was probably a way to save a few bucks.

hankpage
02-19-2014, 01:27 PM
canesfan, Be careful, if you damage the check valve in the city inlet you will not be able to use your fresh water pump since the water will pump out of the inlet. I hope that makes sense. As mentioned, an inexpensive 12v pump (even a cordless drill mount) would be much easier than lifting water jugs. JM2¢, Hank

Bombfixer
02-20-2014, 06:40 AM
I am confused here. But then again, I am a product of the Detroit public school system so that isn't surprising. Am I understanding that you are trying to fill your water tank thru the city water connection on the non entry side of the RV? My 2013 Raptor has a fill for the fresh water tank on the Entry Side of the RV. I have had no problems dumping 5 gal cans of water into it. I only use the city water connection to hook up to a water source at a campground.

Sent from my NX008HD8G using Tapatalk

canesfan
02-20-2014, 07:25 AM
Thanks for the replies and warnings. I know I'm being cheap, but it's also something else I have to carry around, plus I need power and all for a pump. If I remember correctly there isn't a power outlet in the compartment like my last rig had, but my last rig had a gravity fill, too. :rolleyes: I do have a little battery operated submersible pump I got at Lowes awhile back that I actually used to pump water from a cooler into the gravity fill, but I doubt it has enough pressure to engage the check valve in the city water inlet. When the weather gets nicer I'll give it a try though.

As for damaging anything, the strainer is just a small rubber washer with a screen in it that pops out easily, I have plenty of extras of them. Damaging the check valve is another thing, but I'd just be doing manually what water pressure does normally. I know, I don't want to break it, thanks for the warnings. :) I had one break once in the middle of the night, the pump was on, and it pumped 80 gallons of water out of the tank into the basement. I now put a cap on the city water inlet and also turn off the pump overnight.

Someone told me I could just pull the check valve out with a pair of pliers and then put it back. Now that's asking to break something. ;)

Bombfixer, no, it does not have a gravity fill like yours. Where your fill is located is where my fresh water tank vent is. :rolleyes: I thought about maybe using that to get water in the tank, but it's a small opening and I'd have the issue of water going in and air coming out through a small tube.

Thanks again for the thoughts.

JRTJH
02-20-2014, 08:03 AM
Canesfan,

Is it possible to access the top of the FW tank where the vent tube is located? If so, all gravity fill sidewall plates have a vent hose attachment. You may be able to use that location and install your own gravity fill. The FW tank end of that hose is nothing but a polyethylene (or other plastic) flange with a 1.25" hose adapter. They are glued in place with the "new type" adhesive that sticks to (welds together) the plastic. I've only seen the adhesive in a "tank repair kit" but if you can get to the top of the tank, it might be an option. I would not suggest that you cut a 1" hole in your FW tank anywhere except on the top. If the adhesive fails, or the fitting cracks, or ??? You'd lose water down to that level. Installing on the top, near the vent tube location would probably make it easy to route the filltube out to the sidewall location and solve your problem....

Just a thought.

Here are pictures of the flange and the fill port.

canesfan
02-20-2014, 08:17 AM
JRTJH, thanks for the suggestion. I had thought about doing something like that, but the vent hose goes through the wall, down behind the kitchen cabinet, through the floor and then to where ever the tank is. I'm assuming the tank is over the axles, the vent is near the front wheel, but I can't see it from underneath like I can all the other tanks. So if the tank is where I think it is I'd have to pull the cabinets out and cut the floor to get to it. That's a little more than I want to do. Thanks for the idea though. :)

JRTJH
02-20-2014, 08:28 AM
THAT STINKS !!!! Makes you really wonder what Keystone was thinking when they looked at user options when camping.... This is one where they lost the user in their rear view mirror :(

Bluewater
02-20-2014, 08:43 AM
I thought the threaded hose end released the valve in the inlet and not water pressure. When I winterize my 5er I just screw in a small section of hose and with a funnel pour in anti frz. Or is my valve broke??

PARAPTOR
02-20-2014, 08:48 AM
Have to wonder what their logic was to remove the FW gravity fill option?? Must have started to do it in the 2014 models. As stated by others with the 2013 models it is on the entry side of the couch. All I can so is interesting!!! :confused:

canesfan
02-20-2014, 09:40 AM
Yeah, it's totally stupid, especially in a toyhauler. Must have saved them $2-$3 and made a huge inconvenience to the end user. Like I said, the 2014 Fuzions sitting on the lot had the fill on the doorside where my vent is. Nope, the Raptors not so. :( I guess Keystone thinks everybody with Raptors camps at campgrounds with full hookups now, in which case why do we need a genset? :rolleyes:

Bluewater, the hose connection doesn't release the check valve, it's behind a strainer inside the city water inlet. Not sure what's up with yours. If it was broken and you turn on the pump it will pump the water back out the city water inlet.

Anyway, thanks guys. If all else fails I guess I'll have to buy a pump and run some electric.

One other thought was one of those hand pumps for antifreeze, but I don't want to be there all day hand pumping water. :(

hankpage
02-20-2014, 10:01 AM
If you have a cordless drill this may do the trick. Heavy duty drill powered pump (http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-drill-powered-pump-98384.html) for $15 and a short length of hose it might be worth a shot.

Ram189
02-20-2014, 12:07 PM
Buy a spare 12v water pump and splice a 4 pin trailer plug into the end of it. Plug it into your 4 pin plug on your truck turn on the parking lights and you have a running pump.

I use this type of setup on my TT all the time to feed water into it. Usually have guys begging me to use it at the races so they don't have to haul 5 gallons at a time. I have a 55 gallon water tank I fill and the hook the pump to it and feed water.

canesfan
02-21-2014, 06:59 AM
Hankpage, thanks, that looks like a cheap, simple option. I have to look at my cordless drill and see what kind of RPMs it is.

Ram189, thanks for the idea. We do the race thing too. Wonder if you go to Richmond, we'll be there as always in May and Sept.

canesfan
02-24-2014, 07:08 AM
Well, I can't figure out how many RPMs my cordless drill is, read the manual and looked online unless I missed it somewhere. It's a pretty nice 18V one but don't can't find the specs.

But while messing around in the garage this weekend I found this
http://www.amazon.com/Rule-24-Marine-360-GPH-12-Volt/dp/B000O8D8QG/ref=pd_sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P5EYCFFAJ3FBFEJQP2S
I wonder if it has enough pressure to open the check valve? I'm thinking if it does I can wire a cigarette lighter type plug onto it and and add a cigarette lighter type outlet in the basement near the hookup compartment. Then I can do what I used to do and dump my water into a cooler and drop this in the cooler and let it do its thing. Here's hoping. :)

JRTJH
02-24-2014, 09:04 AM
Canesfan,

That bilge pump, if it's like the ones in my boat with the turbine in the bottom to pick up water, are designed to pump volume, not pressure and won't work to open a valve, etc. On mine, if you turn on the pump and put your hand over the outlet, the pump starts cavitating and won't pump anything else until you turn it off and start over. I don't know that a bilge pump will work for what you're trying to do.

canesfan
02-24-2014, 09:40 AM
Thanks for the info, I don't have a boat, don't know why I have this little pump, and wasn't sure what it is capable of.

I also have one of these
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/attwood-waterbuster-battery-operated-portable-water-pump.html (http://www.wholesalemarine.com/attwood-waterbuster-battery-operated-portable-water-pump.html?gclid=COWT5PKl5bwCFQWTfgodGyYACg)
that I used to use with my gravity fill but it's probably similar to the bilge pump with not enough pressure.

I guess I'll order that drill pump and see if my drill will operate it. Sure wish it would warm up so I can try these things out already and move on to the next problem, like fixing my stupid inside steps. :)

Ram189
03-02-2014, 09:21 AM
Hankpage, thanks, that looks like a cheap, simple option. I have to look at my cordless drill and see what kind of RPMs it is.

Ram189, thanks for the idea. We do the race thing too. Wonder if you go to Richmond, we'll be there as always in May and Sept.

We do Richmond and have since the 70's. We stay over at the Azalea Flea Market. Usually in the first row on the right down from where Robert and the crew check you in at. Been staying with them there since the mid 80's when they closed the backstretch. $100.00 for the week and super nice people around us. 1 or 2 rowdy groups but Henrico Co police patrol it every hour or so.

I bought a spare pump that is just like the one in most trailers all ready. Wired it to run off the 4 pin connector in the trailer plug on the truck. Just plug in and turn on the headlights. Will pump pressure forever.

Pentagon
03-02-2014, 12:11 PM
Our 2013 Mountaineer, has the same set up, we bought a portable bilge pump.
It take what longer the fill the fresh water tank, but it can be done.
We contacted keystone, and they didn't have any suggestion for a solution.

canesfan
03-03-2014, 07:34 AM
Thanks again for the ideas. I've got several to try if it ever stops snowing and gets to above freezing for more than a day. 70 yesterday and 3-6" of snow today. I've had enough. :banghead:

I'm guessing if nothing I have works I'll go with a cheap flojet. I actually have a 12V outlet in the basement on the opposite side (I guess for a 12V TV) I can wire a pump to a cigarette plug and use that I suppose.

I still think lack of a gravity fill is a major design flaw Keystone.

Steve S
03-03-2014, 12:10 PM
The only issue I have with the gravity fill is this! Sometimes it fills faster then I think and there's water everywhere!:)
Sorry but I had too!:D

HappyCamperMN
03-03-2014, 01:37 PM
Looks like you took that on a rainy day. Or was there just that much spray from the overflow.?.? :D

Steve S
03-03-2014, 04:01 PM
Looks like you took that on a rainy day. Or was there just that much spray from the overflow.?.? :D

Yeah it was a nice rainy day:) I wonder if I would get that splash back from a 12 volt pump:confused::D

theasphaltrv'er
03-04-2014, 09:17 AM
Thanks again for the ideas. I've got several to try if it ever stops snowing and gets to above freezing for more than a day. 70 yesterday and 3-6" of snow today. I've had enough. :banghead:

I'm guessing if nothing I have works I'll go with a cheap flojet. I actually have a 12V outlet in the basement on the opposite side (I guess for a 12V TV) I can wire a pump to a cigarette plug and use that I suppose.

I still think lack of a gravity fill is a major design flaw Keystone.

canesfan;
Howdy. I posted a similar thread in the 5th wheel section a while back. I have a 14 26SAB Cougar with the same retarded set up. I have been hassling both Keystone & my dealer for a solution. keystone told me to just put water into the vent hole and then a second solution was to pull the docking station out & remove the hose and add water that way. I told them ... neither were exceptable solutions. The Keystone people are ID10T's. My dealer didn't have any solutions either & was talking with keystone. Lot of good that will do. I'm also trying to figure out a way to get it winterized cuz I can't get to the pump to hook up my antifreeze line. They put the pump in a little cubbie hole of a cabinet 10"W x 6"H x 10"D right beside the docking station and with 5 or 6 water lines in there going all which directions, it look like a cobweb. I might pull the docking station out and see if I can bypass the valve if I can figure out which blue line is the one to the tank. One line goes straight into the floor, (maybe tank fill line) and other has 2 tee's on it. One to the pump & the other to outside faucet then into the floor ( my guess ... city water). Also thought about borrowing a pump and seeing if it will pump water into the tank as we do allot of dry camping also.
Any questions or thoughts PM me.

Milo

canesfan
03-04-2014, 09:55 AM
theasphaltrv'er, My first thought was to put water into the vent. I didn't bother contacting KS, but did talk to the super tech at the dealer. I trust his opinion and I just wanted another opinion just so I didn't screw something up. His opinion was the same as mine, put water in it, the most harm you'll do is get gurgling and backsplash from water going in and air coming out the same tube. It doesn't go anywhere else.

I did look where the vent hose comes through the wall and it's a pretty good size tube for just a vent. I need to get my tape out but guessing I'd say it's ~1" maybe more. It looks tiny on the outside but after the opening it's bigger. It actually looks at first sight the same as the hose on my last one that had a gravity fill. So my first plan, if it ever stops snowing and warms up so I don't have to winterize again, is to try putting water in through the vent. I'll use a smaller diameter tube so air can escape and do it slowly, and I'd not try to fill it all the way in that manner, but to be able to add some if needed without extra pumps and all would be nice.

If that works I may consider getting a door and put it in as JRTJH suggested in post #6 here.

FYI, not sure if you know, and if it's like mine, to remove the vent cover you just pull apart a little at the bottom and lift straight up. It's just rubber. Then you just pop the little screen washer out.

And like I said, if that idea doesn't work I think I'll just resort to getting a pump. Maybe I'll send KS the bill. :rolleyes:

theasphaltrv'er
03-04-2014, 10:38 AM
Canesfan;
After reading your post, I went out and did some more looking and I did get the screen out without screwing it up and put it back in with no problem. I had a 12" piece of 5/8" O.D. x 1/2" I.D. tubing and it fit in and I could push it down in all the way. Looks like maybe a 3/4 O.D. hose might fit in there. Yes the white vent hose looks to be 1" or maybe 1 1/4 in diameter. Guess I could pour some water in the and let it run out the drain so it doesn't freeze.

Milo

canesfan
03-04-2014, 10:52 AM
theasphaltrv'er, Awesome!! I didn't try to stick anything down there, but from what I can see on the inside before it goes into the floor is a nice gentle 90* bend so putting a tube down there shouldn't be too bad.

I have some clear plastic tubing of different sizes, now I'm excited to try. Just remember don't use tubing that will fill up the whole opening, you want to be able to let air back out.

Please post what you discover if you try. And stand to the side of the opening unless you're in need of a shower. ;)

canesfan
03-04-2014, 10:56 AM
One other thing I just thought about, if you could get the tube actually into the water tank instead of just part way into the vent tube it might make it easier for air to escape around the tube than fighting the incoming water in the tube itself. Just a thought, not sure if it matters in practice. The question is how do you know when the end of the tube is actually in the tank?

Crock
07-09-2014, 02:03 PM
Have the same issue with 2014 Cougar. This morning cut a 1/2 inch white rv water hose about 2 feet long and attached a small funnel to one end. Took the screen out of vent and stuck the hose in the vent line about 18 inches. Poured a gallon of water into the fresh water tank and it seemed to work pretty well. Would get us out of a bind. Not a great design idea from Keystone:confused:

mpgtow
11-05-2015, 10:57 AM
I have a 2015 Laredo 240 mk. Also no gravity fill... I have tried several methods to add water so we can dry camp in the future however hitting some road blocks.
Purchased a 12v pump so I could fill via the regular city fill docking station but continue to have problems with the pressure valve just behind the screen. It splashes back and leaks like crazy. I was using a quick disconnect hose fitting since it is so difficult to tighten the plastic female connector to the male connector. It's almost impossible to turn to tighten it.
So tried the air vent tube method by removing the screen. It worked great for about 30 sec then no longer noticed it draining from the bottom of tank. Well after 2 gallons pumped in noticed water on other side of trailer! It blew the air vent hose off on the inside spewing 2 gallons of water inside trailer next to bed.
This hose which is corrugated style is really not meant for water flow.

Anybody with new ideas or suggestions?

Photo of 6 gallon jug with 12 volt harbor freight pump and switch set up mounted to a piece of pressure treated wood.
More photos next posts...
Thanks Rob

mpgtow
11-05-2015, 10:59 AM
Photo 2 is attached

mpgtow
11-05-2015, 11:01 AM
Photo 3 attached
Shows pressure valve inside pipe at regular city/tank fill hook up

mpgtow
11-05-2015, 11:02 AM
Photo 4 attached. Docking station fill connection and air vent
Same as 3 but with screen still in place.

mpgtow
11-05-2015, 11:06 AM
Photo 5 attached
Shows corrugated air vent tube inside rear of docking station, attached. This is not designed to hold any water and came off very easily spewing water all over interior of trailer.

Lawdog
03-08-2016, 07:16 PM
I'm going to bring this back to the top. This thread is about the best in describing the issue that I've found on any forum. I'm getting used to the info here being better than anywhere else.

I experienced this same $%^! problem on my new 28RDB twice through my maiden trip. First, last week, I discovered this design idiocy when I tried to de-winterize. There's no easy way to get bleach into the fresh water tank to sanitize. I ended up pouring it down the vent tube and then rinsing it out with a good deal of fresh water to protect that little plastic corrugated line.

Second, of course, when I ran out of water at the campground, I had no way of putting any back in.

The check valve really is the nemesis here because of the need for pressure. I guess it's a pump for me too. :banghead:

What about this down the vent tube... might avoid it slipping off. Almost like an intubation.

http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0031VP-Quick-Fill-Shut-Off/dp/B000IZSB2Q

canesfan
04-20-2016, 07:38 AM
Sorry I've been MIA for awhile, life got in the way of good times.

Following up on this, I've yet to be in the position to need a pump. The only time I've had to fill the water tank through the vent tube is a trip I take twice a year where I camp in someone's yard (at a NASCAR race) who has such low water pressure it won't open the check valve on the city water inlet (yes really), so I have to fill through the vent. After what mpgtow posted about blowing the vent line off when using a pump I'd be very careful with that solution. No, that line is not meant for water, especially under pressure. Will the pump not provide enough pressure to open the check valve in the city water inlet, avoiding the vent? I'm confused there. Now that things are settling down here I'm going to look back into this. There will be times I will not have access to a low pressure water source like noted above and have to find a way to fill the tank from jugs.

@ Lawdog - that is exactly what I use to fill through the vent tube. Just remember to do it s.l.ow.l.y. so you let air out and don't blow the vent tube off.

Lawdog
05-02-2016, 08:05 AM
How to sanitize with bleach: de-winterize. There's no easy way to get bleach into the fresh water tank to sanitize. I ended up pouring it down the vent tube and then rinsing it out with a good deal of fresh water to protect that little plastic corrugated line.

UPDATE: Don't know how I missed this, but this is precisely what the owner's manual says to do for sanitizing. It is the same in the 4/1/2016 update, now available for download at Keystone's website.

Power Fill Models:
1. Drain the tank by opening the low point drains. Close the drains after water has drained.
2. Prepare a chlorine bleach solution of ¼ cup to one gallon of water for every 15 gallons of tank capacity.
Example: Use 2 ¾ gallons of the solution for a 40-gallon tank. If using Ultra bleach concentrations, reduce bleach to 1/8 cup to one gallon of water.
3. Add solution to tank through the tank vent located on the side of the coach. This vent is an arched shape part with the words “tank vent” on the vent cover. The vent cover is removable and held in place by detents on either side of the vent. Remove the bug screen inside the vent. Using a funnel and tube,
add the sanitizing solution. Reinstall the screen and cover when done.
4. Open each faucet/fixture until a distinct chlorine odor is smelled. Close faucets and let stand 4 hours.
5. Drain system and flush with fresh water until chlorine odor and smell is gone. (If a water filter has been added, change it at this time).

Back on topic of fresh water fill, I plan to play around with the tube solution a bit this weekend if time allows and will try to take some pictures if it will work out. I was at RV dealer this weekend and talked to two people. Many of the makers are going to this setup, but the guys there had no better ideas how to deal with it.

canesfan
05-04-2016, 07:45 AM
@ Lawdog, what you posted about sanitizing through the vent is also posted in my convenience center. I was reading it recently. Just remember that pouring some bleach solution into it using a funnel is not the same pressure as hooking a hose up to it from a pressurized source, be it city water or a pump. So take it nice and slow. Like I said, it does work. Filling 100 gallons in my case takes a LONG time though. And for those who will ask what I do with 100 gallons of gray water, usually when I am dry camping there are either pump out trucks or other ways to dispose of gray water.

Lawdog
05-09-2016, 12:16 PM
@ Lawdog, what you posted about sanitizing through the vent is also posted in my convenience center.

?

What is "my convenience center" you referenced?

canesfan
05-10-2016, 06:36 AM
?

What is "my convenience center" you referenced?

Docking station? Whatever you want to call the compartment where all the connections are. It's not really convenient. It's more of a hassle trying to get your hands in there to tighten and loosen connections.

canesfan
05-10-2016, 07:27 AM
Throwing this out there, thinking about pumps, anyone have any inkling how much water pressure is needed to open the city water check valve?

bitten
05-10-2016, 03:28 PM
Docking station? Whatever you want to call the compartment where all the connections are. It's not really convenient. It's more of a hassle trying to get your hands in there to tighten and loosen connections.



What is the outside blue hose connected to?

canesfan
05-11-2016, 05:22 AM
What is the outside blue hose connected to?

Oh, disregard that hookup in the picture. I had read in another thread someone filling their tank that way, but it doesn't, and can't, work. It since turned out, after I questioned it, that they actually had a gravity fill, which I don't. So if you had a gravity fill the outdoor shower hose would be going into it, not the city water inlet.

Lawdog
05-11-2016, 02:03 PM
Docking station? Whatever you want to call the compartment where all the connections are. It's not really convenient. It's more of a hassle trying to get your hands in there to tighten and loosen connections.

Ah, gotcha. When you said it was posted on the center, I was all confused.

I too want to know the type and model # of the Harbor Freight pump and whether it will overcome the inlet check valve. I suspect it will.

Thanks for the insight, Canes. Good luck on finding a solution--I'm still looking into it too.

Desert185
05-12-2016, 07:09 PM
http://t.harborfreight.com/portable-utility-pump-65836.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.c om%2F

mpgtow
05-23-2016, 12:02 PM
This issue only pertains to those of us with units that DO Not have a separate water fill.... Only A shared connection with the city valve....
Ok, per keystone: It's ok to use the air vent ( pull the screen off) to water fill the tank. Go slow and use a smaller diameter hose so air can escape as you fill.
And per my recommendation, Make sure this air vent hose is clamped on tight on the inside of the docking station (see my earlier posting about leak!).

Problem:
I'm currently at a campsite and can only add about 10 gallons of water via this method before it comes back out as if it was full. The tank is 43 gallons. Apparently I have an air lock.... Again, filling thru the air vent ( I'm pumping it in slowly with a 12v pencil type pump in a 8 gallon water jug)
Anybody have an idea for a quick, at camp site fix?
Gee, I've got to say this method, (per Keystone - phone call and email confirmation) Is an asinine method for a dry camping water fill! I'm currently stuck with very little water.

Lawdog
05-31-2016, 04:52 PM
Well, as an update, thanks to the geniuses who decided a camper used in the woods needed no gravity fill, and finding no good alternative, I decided to try the Harbor Freight pump route. I went down and bought pump #94639 for $32 after the 20% off coupon.

I also picked up two of the Camco 4 foot drinking water safe hoses to hook to my water container --> HF pump --> city water inlet on the camper. I tested the pump out with water container and it pumped a hard stream of water out. Good start. I hooked it up to inlet, turned the lever to 'fill tank' and started a stopwatch and turned it on. I turned on the stopwatch so I would know how fast it emptied a 10 gallon container.

90 seconds later, the pump up and quit.

I tried to exchange it tonight at my local Harbor Freight and they refused to exchange it. :mad: Evidently, a lot of these are coming back. Well, if they go Tango Uniform after 90 seconds, yep, a lot of them are going to come back. I will call the 800 number the store told me to call and report back.

At this point, it's back to the drawing board. First boondock trip in about two weeks. Not a happy camper at this point.

Jgkopp
05-31-2016, 07:11 PM
I think there is a drain line hanging underneath with a cap, valve or both for draining this domestic water tank. This drain line is connected directly to the bottom of the tank, and the vent line is also connected to the top of the tank. So what would happen if you made a positive connection to this drain line and made it a fill line? You could then gravity feed water via a water tank that is higher in elevation than the tank in the trailer? As long as the water source tank can drain water (must be vented), water will flow into the trailer water tank that is also vented. When the source tank is empty, water will level out with the water line elevation of the trailer tank. Fill it this way and you don't need a pump. You can fill the trailer tank this way till it is completely full. Then close valve to disconnect.

I guess you could also fill it this way with pressurized domestic water, but then again the factory already set the rig up for that method.

Thoughts?

John

Lawdog
06-02-2016, 10:14 AM
I tried to exchange it tonight at my local Harbor Freight and they refused to exchange it. :mad: Evidently, a lot of these are coming back. Well, if they go Tango Uniform after 90 seconds, yep, a lot of them are going to come back. I will call the 800 number the store told me to call and report back.

Harbor Freight did good and is taking care of the broken pump. I will give it another try in the next couple weeks and post up.

canesfan
06-02-2016, 11:26 AM
I think there is a drain line hanging underneath with a cap, valve or both for draining this domestic water tank. This drain line is connected directly to the bottom of the tank, and the vent line is also connected to the top of the tank. So what would happen if you made a positive connection to this drain line and made it a fill line? You could then gravity feed water via a water tank that is higher in elevation than the tank in the trailer? As long as the water source tank can drain water (must be vented), water will flow into the trailer water tank that is also vented. When the source tank is empty, water will level out with the water line elevation of the trailer tank. Fill it this way and you don't need a pump. You can fill the trailer tank this way till it is completely full. Then close valve to disconnect.

I guess you could also fill it this way with pressurized domestic water, but then again the factory already set the rig up for that method.

Thoughts?

John

That's a very interesting theory. I have no idea if it would actually work, but may be worth a try. It shouldn't be hard to hook up a tube to the drain spigot, if I'm thinking right it has a somewhat barbed end on it. I've got some plastic tubing and vented water jugs, I may just have try that...if it ever stops raining for a day. (tx)

bobbecky
06-03-2016, 10:29 PM
If you get a small line long enough to reach into the tank, and there is even just a little room around the hose inside the vent hose, you will be able to add water without water coming back out the vent, and this can be done using gravity or a pump, just will take longer using gravity.

canesfan
06-04-2016, 07:16 AM
If you get a small line long enough to reach into the tank, and there is even just a little room around the hose inside the vent hose, you will be able to add water without water coming back out the vent, and this can be done using gravity or a pump, just will take longer using gravity.

This is worth a try also. The tube I have now is probably too big OD and too stiff. It will go into the vent about a foot or so and stops. I know, since I can see the vent line behind the cabinets, that it would need to go in farther than that to be in the tank. A smaller, more flexible tube might work. It would also avoid water pressure on the vent line and the connection to the wall and/or tank, which weren't really designed for water pressure. The only thing would be something high enough to support a water jug above the level of the vent, which is somewhere around waist high. I'd prefer not to stand there awkwardly holding a ~55lb water jug high enough to let the water drain, which with a small diameter tube would take several minutes.

Jgkopp
06-04-2016, 05:42 PM
We were out in our rig the last few days. Looked underneath and our water tank has a drain hose with a 1/2" threaded MIP adapter with a 1/2" threaded FIP cap. This cap is removed to drain the tank. Notice this hose is not clear tubing. Very important of any hose that is added that is not be clear tubing.

If you are going to use this line to fill I would add an extension hose and route it over to the side of the rig so it is more readily accessible. Should use an RV marine grade water hose for this extension and not clear tubing. You don't want any sunlight to get to the water. Over a period of time, UV light will contaminate the stored water. Add a ball valve and adapter so you can install the 1/2" cap when finished. The 1/2 ID hose is a good size for filling the tank without a pump. The water jug is going to have to be strapped up high on the ladder (if you have one) or something that elevates the water supply tank. Vent the tank and it will drain into the rigs domestic water storage tank rather quickly. The higher the tank the quicker it will flow.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/922/rjTxdD.jpg

canesfan
06-05-2016, 06:41 AM
My drain is a piece of PEX with a ball valve on the end. The ball valve has what I would call 3 ribs on the end, very similar to barbs. I figure I can attach a tube to that if I decide to go that route. I have never heard not to use clear tubing, I've been doing it that way forever with various different trailers and water system setups.

Jgkopp
06-05-2016, 07:26 AM
Clear is fine for short term and temporary use. If water is going to be sitting for a long time in a hose it is better to keep it out of the sun. If you notice, a RV water storage tank is not a clear tank for many reasons.

canesfan
06-05-2016, 07:56 AM
Ok, I never leave water sitting in clear tubing, I pour the water in the tank and I'm done. Nothing is permanent. And I rinse the tubing out with bleach solution from time to time and it gets stored in a covered tote with my other water items. Thanks for that info.