Keystone TT 260-RBS Insulation Project/ Under Trailer/ Pic heavy

[FullTimer]

I thought I would share my current project. Insulating under the trailer to keep holding tanks from freezing. Maybe the title should be "How to Turn a 3 seasons Trailer into a 4 Seasons One".

Ok Ready?, I decided to do the whole trailer length since the FW tank was separate from the two other tanks. It's a work in progress, so I will be adding cross supports from the front to the rear to support the foil board to make it road worthy.

I used duct tape at first on the seams, then removed it after it pretty much let go. Tried foil tape, same thing (disappointing). So I will probably be getting some underlayment tape or some Gorilla Tape. I will also be reworking the part directly underneath the rear tanks, I don't like the way the drain comes out, under frame, pushing down on the insulation, and will probably be using a black pipe wrap instead of the bulky insulation. I have since slid a heat tape underneath the black tank and wrapped around the drain pipes all the way to the connection flange for sub 0 weather. I have two 12 volt heating pads, peel and stick for the underside of the FW tank, and will be wiring them in, with a fuse and switch somewhere. Pads pull 1 amp @ approx 35 watts each, good for cold weather boondocking.

When I went to removed the black plastic shield from the FW tank, I found pieces of bent aluminium angle, looked like metal siding, originally bent to make angle braces, bent over flat, allowing the tank to slide from side to side inside the frame rail cross members, as well as bounce up and down about 2 inches, The screws also came down from the top, through the flat straps supporting the tank, nice lol.

I also found the fill hose torn, from the stretching caused by the tank sliding and bouncing around empty. Good thing it didn't break the tank neck. I'll be working on hooking up new fill hose and installing the 12 volt pads and insulating the FW tank today.

In some of the pics, at the rear of the trailer, I found a recessed space between the rear bottom edge of the trailer body and frame cross member, from side to side, where the bathroom water lines were ran, covered up with just a piece of fabric tape, pex tubing laying on the tape. Bathroom sink and tub ines were trying to freeze during a bad winter storm a month ago. So for the moment I cut a strip of insulation and shoved up in it, to help protect the water lines from cold. Looks ghetto, but I will probably be splitting the fabric tape, insulating right and resealing with a strip of Insulboard.

My goal is to not have to drip or run water at the faucets at all, be able to close the gate valves and hold liquid in tanks during extreme weather events. Also to cut down on how much I have to spend heating the trailer. Also to maintain ability to pull trailer without having to worry about it all coming down and dry boondock lol.

It's a work in progress, but I thought some might want to see where alot of my time is going lately lol, as well as other Honey Do projects. The wife says she can already tell a difference on the floor temps and how much heat we're having to use, compared to before. Sorry about all the narration lol.


6- 4X8 Sheets of 1 Inch InsulBoard (Stryofoam), cut to 68 inches (long) and dropped on inner frame rail flanges sideways. Light weight. Plywood would be heavier and make getting to under carriage harder.
3 1/2 X 24 inch Insulation. Cut to 4 foot lengths. laid longways and laid on top of the foil Insulboard. Covers from frame rail to frame rail.

Front of trailer, access cut for slide pump. Far left upper corner.
http://imageshack.us/a/img196/5904/6ovm.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img841/4761/7dm6.jpg

45 Gallon Freshwater tank nestled in the rails, with shield removed.
http://imageshack.us/a/img855/107/p9nq.jpg

Screws going the wrong direction through straps
http://imageshack.us/a/img716/2210/2aup.jpg

[FullTimer]

Rear of trailer with strip of insulation on left to protect water tubing, temporarily. Black and Grey tanks directly above. I'll be reworking where the drains drop below the frame, to get rid of the hump.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6074/s5ba.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img42/2817/bfqy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img600/6383/fsf9.jpg

[shov]

looks great. i performed a similar project on my old TT out of necessity, lived in mine for a year in Montana


Sent from my iPad

[JRTJH]

Looks like you've been busy. Hopefully what you're doing will make a significant difference in cold weather livability. Two things I think you might want to consider:

1. Be sure to weigh your rig when you're done. Adding insulation might not look like it adds a lot of weight, but it can "creep up there" pretty quickly.

2. The screws in the straps that you say are "installed wrong" might not be installed wrong. As the tanks shift (or even expand/stretch when full) they will slide against those screws if they are installed with the heads on the bottom. That may cause them to cut into the tank and destroy it. We found a lot of those kinds of installation techniques in airplanes. It might not "look right" but it is done for a specific purpose that may not be readily apparent on first observation. Use caution if you decide to reverse the direction of those screws!!!!

Keep us posted as things progress.

[Mike L123]

Thank you for posting this "how to" along with pictures. This is indeed a massive undertaking and I wish you success with it. I have often wondered what is hidden by the coroplast and what kind of workmanship the factory puts into these things. Please remember that you should not wrap heat tape around the pipes - it has to travel in a straight line down one side, or both sides if you need to, of the pipes that you are heating. Wrapping around the pipes could result in unwanted/unexpected problems.

Cheers!

Mike

[FullTimer]

Thanks all, just finished putting the FW tank heating pads on, the new fill hose, slipping a section of 1 inch Styrofoam under the whole tank, and reinstalling the plastic shield under the whole mess lol, and of course the straps. Now I need to finish wiring the two pairs of heating pad wires into the battery leads or a 12 volt tap. I was wondering about a good tape for the seams of the foil board? Any suggestions? Would something like below work? :) I thought about the screws being that way for the tank puncturing reason. But I think I will use 1/4X1 inch bolts and nuts, with the threads facing down. Now that I have the Styrofoam in, raises the tank an inch, that gives me some buffer between the tank and bolt heads to avoid that. I know it's aways from being finished, but I was being assaulted by projects after the move in and hustling to beat the weather lol. Now I almost have things under control, hope lol. Thanks for the heat strip tip. These pads aren't thermostatic, but are very low wattage, so I will need a switch setup for sure. Then just use them for extreme weather.

Eternabond RV Rubber Roof Repair Tape
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mcWCOHCIZPdclJzwEsJgmGA.jpg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eternabond-RV-Rubber-Roof-Repair-Tape-1-5-x-50-White-BEST-SHIPPED-PRICE-/190912335413?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&hash=item2c73430e35&vxp=mtr

These are the two heating pads I used, sorry about screen shear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331075322012?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
THESE CAN BE INSTALLED ON ANY PLASTIC PIPE THAT YOU DON'T WANT TO FREEZE. FOR RV, MARINE HOME OR TRUCK

MODEL SL-P712. MADE BY THERMAHEAT
13.5V DC 12 VOLT. 1.7 AMPS. FOR PIPES UP TO 3"
MEASURE 7.5" WIDE BY 12" LONG. 23 WATTS. 18" LEAD WIRE
THE PIPE HEATERS DO NOT OPERATE ON A THERMOSTAT.
JUST PEEL OF AND STICK TO TANK AND HOOK UP WIRING.
INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED
YOU CAN ALSO HOOK MORE THAN ONE OF THESE UP.
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/3658/bgrd.jpg

[JRTJH]

The foam board you're using looks like it has an aluminum foil facing on it. Using any tape on that will fail when the foil surface separates from the foam. Every piece of aluminum construction board I've seen or used has separated if exposed to the elements. It takes time to happen, usually a year or two, but it has separated on every one I've used that was exposed. So taping the foil will eventually fail no matter what kind of tape you use.

You can tape it now with gorilla tape and then, in the spring when the weather is nicer, install a sheet of coroplast over the entire underside to protect the foam as well as all the joints. Coroplast comes in rolls and is 72" wide (perfect to fit between the frame rails). It's sold by the foot and the cost isn't that expensive, it's shipping that's the killer !!! If you can find a dealership that has some on hand or if you're near one of the bigger supply houses, you can pick it up to save the shipping.

I wouldn't count on any tape applied to aluminum foil to be a long term fix.

[BulletOwner1]

FullTimer,

I did a much less intense insulating project on my Bullet. What I wanted to relate to you was be careful screwing the coroplast back up. On my Bullet one end of the fresh water tank rests on the inboard edge of the I Beam frame rail. The manuf screwed the coroplast to the frame at that location with cut off screws. When I went back to install the coroplast I forgot that small fact and used a long screw. Needless to say I wasn't a happy camper at that point. I was able to repair the tank but it wouldn't have been necessary if I had paid attention!!!!

[FullTimer]

Thanks again guys. That's what I was wondering, if I was spinning my wheels on the longterm tape aspect. The zip ties are a temp thing, until I install cross supports of some type. Weather was barrelling down towards us, when I did the front. I had actually thought coroplast would be nice touch, to tie it all in neatly. I haven't drilled any under carriage holes yet, other than hanging a wall mount led TV in the bedroom :D, being very careful about that. I'll check around and see what pops up on it.

But I have done the exact same thing when I was doing HVAC repair decades ago. Coleman package unit, pierced one of the coils, grabbed the wrong screw, just nicked it. I was able to repair it, but I was very unhappy on a 100 degree day lol. What did you end up using to repair the hole?

[BulletOwner1]

I was able to get a small stick of material used in plastic welding from an RV dealer. Then I used a soldering iron with a flat tip. So far so good.

[sbmarks3]

Thanks for posting your progress on this project. I am in the middle of doing one myself. I have already run heat tape on the water lines, now I have to deal with the tanks, run some extra wiring for future circuits and install foam board like you are doing. I am considering putting the foam board foil side up to allow shedding of any water that may end up on it. I have coroplast going back on as a final covering. Please keep us posted on your progress, it looks great.

[FullTimer]

Thanks, I figured if nothing else, people could learn from my mistakes lol. I'll grab a few pics of the covered tank in the morning.

Without starting a new thread, any tips for getting a stuck dripping T&P valve out? I used a 14 inch pair of channel locks on it and it didn't budge. I'll try some PB Blaster in the next few days and see if that helps. I just thought someone might know that special trick lol.

[sbmarks3]

You might try this on the t&p valve. screw a 90 degree street elbow or a short nipple and a standard elbow into the valve snuggly. Then screw a piece of pipe 2 or 3 foot long into the elbow snug. It can work as a lever to break the valve free. Leaving it all just snug but able to move lets you avoid interferences. Good luck

[FullTimer]

Thanks, but my issue is room, it's a Suburban 6 gallon tank. The valve sits too deep to screw anything on. I dug around last night and found a socket for this. I think I'll go ahead and get one and try it. My only other option is call out a repair guy, on site. $$$$
Camco 10552 Universal Temperature Pressure Valve Remover Camper Trailer RV
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321285615218?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/Camco/10552.jpg

[mguay]

Welcome to the Underbelly Club!

Another thought on the seams in the foam. A can of Great Stuff Window and Door (blue can minimal expansion) foam and run a bead on one side of the seam. Then mate the two pieces together and within 2 minutes they will be sealed together.

[FullTimer]

Welcome to the Underbelly Club!

Another thought on the seams in the foam. A can of Great Stuff Window and Door (blue can minimal expansion) foam and run a bead on one side of the seam. Then mate the two pieces together and within 2 minutes they will be sealed together.

Hmm hadn't even thought of that. Thanks for the membership lol.

Here's a couple of quick shots I grabbed just now, it's about 15 or 20 degrees out there now :eek:. Yesterday it was around 70 lol.
You can see the area to the sides of the tank I need to cover yet. The tank now has a 1 inch piece of stryofoam foil board in between the plastic shield and the tank itself, full length. The two pairs of wires go to the dual 12 volt pads, placed about 2 feet apart in the center of the tank. I have the bolts for the straps, but that can wait until a warmer day lol.

You can see where I propped up a piece of foil board farther back, to make sure I had full coverage on the insulation. I filled the tank, checked for leaks, all good! and bleached it, oh and checked the pump, works great. Not much to see really. I'll try to grab one more piece of stryoofoam, and some wire to finish this up this next week.

http://imageshack.us/a/img534/8214/uuhw.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img17/9062/ru2t.png

[Steve S]

Great thread, thanks for the details and the pics :)

[FullTimer]

YVW Steve. Been a project for sure lol. I was able to work on it some more this afternoon.

I rerouted the pad wires inside the shield and ran them through the floor with the fill hose and pump feed lines. So the tank has pads, 3 1/2 inch insulation on each end, and foil Styrofoam to help insulate it. I forgot to take a picture of the covering all the way to the tank, front (rightside) finished now. I still need to install the anchor bolts.
http://imageshack.us/a/img607/6456/g7sj.png

Here's the three wires running up under the cabinet. A common ground for both pads, and each pad has it's own power feed. Then I will be able to run one or both. I'll be isolating the pump feet, sounds like a drum pounding when running lol.
http://imageshack.us/a/img32/4223/15ve.png

The location I chose is behind the stove, where the tank level indicator and HW propane switch are at. I wanted to keep them all grouped together. The mark is a rough location. Once I feed the wires up, as well as a 12 volt feed wire, I will dremel the hole out for the two Illuminated switches. I'm having to be pretty careful here, there is a 120 volt outlet to the left and one mounted outside inline with the wire runs. When I fish them up, I will kill the power to the trailer for safety. I will also route a wire to the power center and use one of the empty 12volt fused points.

What the point of entries under the stove looked like when I chose this location. No, I didn't drill that empty hole lol. The wires will come from the left, then travel up the wall to the switch location.
http://imageshack.us/a/img22/7362/wi0k.png

[FullTimer]

Continued
Here's the pair of switches for the heaters.
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6258/m2ij.jpg
Me checking for wiring behind the wall at the location above the stove top. Pen marks rough location, next to HW propane switch.
http://imageshack.us/a/img42/9528/2p73.png

So guys, it's coming along, abeit it slowly :). Until I get some choroplast, I grabbed some 1/2 inch metal conduit, cut it to length, and laid under the foil board every few feet and on top of the frame flanges. It supports the weight fine.

[FullTimer]

Well we got snow/ sleet last night, true test of all the work, current temp at 18F and windchill of 4F. We are snug and warm in our improved trailer. I turned the propane heater to 72 and it has yet to kick on. We're using two small little electrics for heat. No fears of tanks (FW still empty pending switches) or water lines freezing Yiipee! And NOT dripping water lol. :D

[sbmarks3]

Well we got snow/ sleet last night, true test of all the work, current temp at 18F and windchill of 4F. We are snug and warm in our improved trailer. I turned the propane heater to 72 and it has yet to kick on. We're using two small little electrics for heat. No fears of tanks (FW still empty pending switches) or water lines freezing Yiipee! And NOT dripping water lol. :D

Great Job FullTimer,
It's nice to be warm!
What steps did you take to prevent your water supply hose from freezing up?
I saw a Youtube video where a guy wrapped aluminum foil the full length of the hose then taped heat tape over that, then wrapped in foam insulation. Heat tape is not supposed to be used on hose, but the foil should protect and help transfer the heat around the full circumference of the hose. I gave it a try on a 25' hose. I have it full and under pressure for 3 days now outside of my house as a test, so far works like a charm. our temps have been dropping down to the high teens and low twentys over night here in the Atlanta area.

[FullTimer]

Thanks! I also that vid of him wrapping with foil first. I have always just taped the heat tape to the hose, then slipped 1 inch foam pipe insulation over that, taped that every foot or so. That gray tube looking stuff. It's worked great for me for almost 4 years. Main thing is leave a little extra heat tape on the end that connects to the trailer, where the tape will extend onto that connection. then cover with the tube insulation, just notch it, so it turns 90 degrees cleanly, then just tape it to make it stay closed. I use a 90 degree water connection at the trailer, so the hose doesn't stand straight out, but hangs straight down. It keeps the stress off the trailer city water connector that way. It's metal so it has to be covered as well. Something like below. Hardware store has them.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/90-degree-water-hose-entry-elbow/1745

On my sewer. I have schedule 40 3 inch pipe to the dump connection, about 16-18 feet. Then I just wrap that and tape every few feet with the same 3 1/2 insulation I used on the under carriage. Some take the stretch sewer pipe and slip in into a larger piece of pipe, to keep snow or ice off of it, but I haven't tried that. Even the bare schedule 40 pipe will freeze, I have had it happen once before I insulated it and seen others also. Nothing like having a 3 inch pipe full of frozen sewage, ugh.

It's not too bad right now, we have been through MUCH worse. A few inches of powder out there. Wind gusting 30-40mph. A thin layer of ice under the snow. I'm sure you'll notice the propane tanks, I keep 100# for emergencies lol.
http://imageshack.us/a/img22/1396/3hk3.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/6708/vyu3.png

[mikell]

We're going into our 5th winter with a standard water hose with aluminum tape then the heat tape. Slid the whole thing thru pipe insulation then wrapped it with foil bubble wrap insulation. Works fine except one of the hose ends blew apart.

[abneynormal]

I had thought about putting 1" Styrofoam above the corplast. I didn't think about tank heaters. I full time and the raptor is kept in a building so cold isn't really that much of a factor here in Alabama. as for your project I would corplast it or at least run aluminum strips across it. as for a tape they use a ac foil tape that should hold. I would clean with denatured alcohol so as to not dissolve the foam insulation. I wish you the best

[FullTimer]

Thanks guys. I finally got my illuminated heater switches in, so hoping to snake the wire up the wall and finish that up in the next few days. On the tape, I was also wondering if maybe there was a residue on the sheets, when I taped them the first time with foil tape. Like pointed out, I may try to wipe the joints to clean them and try a section to see how it holds up to cold weather.

Since the weather has been hit and miss outside I haven't been working under the trailer, I have been working inside, installing a double light fixture, to replace a single above the sink, and the hood vent switch that quit this last week. Little things like that that, I like light lol. The dim light in the bathroom, a dbble fixture with the 925 bulbs, that was bugging me. I replaced the bulbs, installed clear covers and was amazed at how much brighter the light was now. Most would consider the trailer very bright anyway, but I like tons of light.

I did find a local cabinet shop that will make me the extra doors (to match what I have) for several areas, so cutting inside access will help during nasty weather. I popped off the cabinet panel under the oven, that goes in under the cabinet and found an unused quite sizable area, that joins the large storage under the sink, I plan on using for cleaning items. Needs a door there. I will be cutting an matching opening to the side of the one dining bench, to allow inside access there. That will need a door also.

So there's plenty to do inside as well lol. I might not ever be done lol (tx)

[FullTimer]

Well, just about done with the heating pads. We ran the wire up the wall, cut out the switch location yesterday. Grounded the negative side of the pads on the frame. So all I have left to do it run the positive 12 to the power center and wire the switches in. Then of course check with an clamp on volt meter to verify current is flowing. Hopefully I can get some choraplast by this spring and seal the under side.
This gives me a good solid ground, that also runs up under the sink also. The illuminated switches have to have a ground to light up.
http://imageshack.com/a/img541/3052/97br.png
Wires ran up the wall. Messy, but will be using some automotive wire loom on it to tidy it up. I pulled an extra ground wire in case I needed it in the future.
https://imageshack.com/i/nrf5fwp
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/855/f5fw.png
Them popping out the hole for the switches.
https://imageshack.com/i/jtkdbcp
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/713/kdbc.png
I'll be routing the 12 volt power wire through here, across the heater compartment, then into the back of the power center to a fused connection.
https://imageshack.com/i/nqsqgop
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/854/sqgo.png

So anyhow, the major brunt of it all is done, except for powering up the pads with the soon to be installed switches.

[FullTimer]

Well another portion of the winterizing is complete. The tie in of the power and power up of the switches, leading to the FW tank heating pads. Yesterday, I killed the shore power and disconnected the battery and pulled the main 12 volt feed into the power center, Magnetek 6300Q series. Connected it to a spare open fused feed and installed a 10 amp ATC fuse for protection. This also gave me a chance to clean years of lint accumulation from inside the converter area (very flammable) and I found a large Ziplock bag that somehow migrated to the area behind the converter. I was pleased to see a cooling fan on the back, I assume thermostatically controlled, to flow cooler air through the high voltage side of it. Today the FW tank gets filled since I'll have the water off to replace a dripping HW tank T&P valve. I broke down and bought the socket that fits over the valve (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Camco-10552-RV-Water-Heater-Universal-Pressure-Relief-Valve-Remover-/111151111282) and will be trying it to get the valve out.
So anyway here's a few last shots of this project for now, until this spring when I can afford choroplast. :)
Red fuse is the 10 amp feed for the pads.Pads pull max 4 amps. I placed a box of spare fuses inside the compartment
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/138/q3u2.png
Here's an older pic of what the switches look like powered up.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/801/81z8.png

ETA, I just used the Camco socket to remove the T&P valve, there was no way I would have gotten it out without it. The price of the socket, saved me the price of a repair. Nice!

[sbmarks3]

Nice Job Fulltimer !
It feels good to wrap up a project, I know! From what I have seen you have made this unit much more livable in a short period of time.
Tracy

[FullTimer]

Nice Job Fulltimer !
It feels good to wrap up a project, I know! From what I have seen you have made this unit much more livable in a short period of time.
Tracy

Thank you sir, high praise indeed. I see you're busy on yours as well! I'm really looking forward to your opinion of all the work you did to yours. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised lol. And your right on mine, it is so much more enjoyable now, as well protected too much lower temps. :D

[FullTimer]

I just wanted to give an update on how well all the mods went, during our last storm and waking up to a mild 10mph northerly breeze and an 1/8 of ice this morning. It's hovering at 31 degrees and windchill 23 right now, and expected to go downhill through the weekend.

I ordered a different foil tape and redid half of the joints of the styrofoam under the trailer, as a test a week ago. The new stuff, which has a blueish adhesive, is working stellar (http://www.ebay.com/itm/301033971217?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649).

Secondly, I had filled the FW tank before our last nasty storm, windchill -15 for about 24 hours, pretty nasty weather indeed and ran the 12 volt heating pads for almost 36 hours straight. The tank didn't freeze or try too, but I did have the suction line freeze, tested during the brunt of the storm by turning city feed off, and the pump refused to pump. I suspect the inlet line under the cabinet froze, yes, it was that cold lol, so I will be double insulating it when I can. I triple insulated it under the trailer, knowing it would freeze first. I went ahead and dumped the tank until I do.

The gray and black holding tanks are doing great and one less worry there.
So, so far the mods are doing great and what they were designed for for the most part. :p
**********
As a side note: Yesterday, I had a new lady move in next to me, in her 2014 something or other, her first adventure and trailer. I spent several hours explaining things and helping her hook up. What I saw under her trailer struck fear in me, everything, I mean everything is exposed....She has a nice large shower with the large rain head shower, the lines are in the ceiling, again, wondering how well it will tolerate. I explained she will have to run water, and what to do with the tanks, to keep them from freezing hopefully......I suspect the park manger, who is down since some medical procedures were done, put her there, so I could keep an eye on things. Hoping for the best for her.

[superdog404]

Your just loved FullTimer!!!

[FullTimer]

Your just loved FullTimer!!!

Lol I guess. I guess I have seen too many get in over their heads and it really sours their outlook on camper trailers.

[Steve S]

Hi, I was wondering how well your tank heaters work and are you happy with them?
I'm in the same boat you were in and I'll be doing the same improvements.

[Steve S]

Fulltimer you have an un answered question waiting above:D
Also do you remember what you paid for the heating mat? I got quoted $150.00 yesterday for a tank mat that runs on 110 and 12 volt.

[FullTimer]

Lol, sorry dude, been on Ebay lol.

I paid around $25 apiece. I think they are 135 watt each. The switches and wire cost me another $35 or so. I figured duals would be plenty for that tank, so I put the two on it. And yep, I gave it a trial by fire during a bad storm here a few weeks ago. I filled the tank, and that afternoon, I turned both pads on. That night it reached a low of -5 through -9 with a pretty stout wind. It was this way for several days and the pads stayed on throughout. The day after the storm broke, I dumped the tank and it was fine. But I did have the suction hose freeze from a one inch section I missed insulating. An easy fix.

The seller is out of them now, but I did run across other in a search the other day. Are you thinking 12 volt or 120? Just be aware most of these aren't thermostatically controlled (unless stated), so the tank has to have liquid and a switch to control operation when near freezing temps.

Here's one I just ran across. 12 volt, 68 watts, 26 X 6 1/2 . http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Camper-Trailer-Large-Holding-Tank-Heating-Pad-with-Adhesive-Back-26-x-6-1-2-/161223061042?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&hash=item2589a4ae32&vxp=mtr
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFg5MDA=/z/XzoAAOxydlFS-pX5/$_57.JPG

[Steve S]

Wow $29.00 and I'm in business? Sure beats the heck out of the quote I just got.
I'm going to go cheap on this as I'll just run it 24/7 for the short few weeks of winter that we get.
I will install a switch somewhere so I can shut off during the rest of the year.
This e-bay shopping looks pretty cool but I need a credit card. I've never had a credit card in my life, never needed one till now.:eek:

[FullTimer]

Wow $29.00 and I'm in business? Sure beats the hell out of the quote I just got.
I'm going to go cheap on this as I'll just run it 24/7 for the short few weeks of winter that we get.
I will install a switch somewhere so I can shut off during the rest of the year.
This e-bay shopping looks pretty cool but I need a credit card. I've never had a credit card in my life, never needed one till now.:eek:

Lol, if you know what something is worth retail, many times it pays off to go there. We buy alot from there, so I wait until a few things come in, then zip by the Post Office and grab it all. Plus I can find things there, I wouldn't be able to, in Tulsa. Like the double illuminated switches for the pads. My son buys on there, as well as sells, using a prepaid card. He said it was a pain to setup, but he does. He has it linked through PayPal somehow.

[JRTJH]

Wow $29.00 and I'm in business? Sure beats the heck out of the quote I just got.
I'm going to go cheap on this as I'll just run it 24/7 for the short few weeks of winter that we get.
I will install a switch somewhere so I can shut off during the rest of the year.
This e-bay shopping looks pretty cool but I need a credit card. I've never had a credit card in my life, never needed one till now.:eek:

You don't need a credit card. Go to WalMart, buy a MasterCard or Visa gift card, put the amount you want on it and use that card number as you would a credit card..... You can take the card back to WalMart and put more money on it next time you want to use it.

[Steve S]

You don't need a credit card. Go to WalMart, buy a MasterCard or Visa gift card, put the amount you want on it and use that card number as you would a credit card..... You can take the card back to WalMart and put more money on it next time you want to use it.

Thanks John that's a great idea, now I just have to find a WalMart!

[fireballxl5]

Greetings, Full-Timer! Great thread...lots of neat ideas. Currently have the bottom off my 07 Laredo 29RL 5'er...had to fix the tank sensors since the factory saw fit to allow the slide rack/pinion run over and cut the ribbon cable. While under, I was thinking about the cheap insulating job they did and what to do different.

To the point: the photos hosted by imageshack aren't showing up. Is the server down or did you pull them down? Sure would like to see them. A picture is worth a thousand words (though you and the others have done a good job discrediting that.) Happy journeys!

[TandE]

Greetings, Full-Timer! Great thread...lots of neat ideas. Currently have the bottom off my 07 Laredo 29RL 5'er...had to fix the tank sensors since the factory saw fit to allow the slide rack/pinion run over and cut the ribbon cable. While under, I was thinking about the cheap insulating job they did and what to do different.

To the point: the photos hosted by imageshack aren't showing up. Is the server down or did you pull them down? Sure would like to see them. A picture is worth a thousand words (though you and the others have done a good job discrediting that.) Happy journeys!

I'm not on my computer but on the tapatalk app on my phone all the pictures show up just fine for me. Not sure what problem would cause you not to see them.

Travis

[fireballxl5]

TandE: Thanks for the reply. I think you must be referring to more recent photos. I'm referring to the Imageshack hosted photos earlier in the thread that don't show up.

I've attached a screenprint of Fulltimer's entry and link, then posted the result, which is Imageshack saying its been deleted :eek: ...same as most of the others they host. If you can tell me what I'm doing wrong, I'd sure like to hear it. :banghead: But for my money...the pics aren't there anymore.

Happy journeys!

[TandE]

When I click on the image shack link it says deleted but on the tapatalk app they show up on the post. Don't know why but it is weird. Here's a screen shot of that post from my phone right now. Maybe full timer will respond soon to it. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/17/u2ytetyz.jpg

Travis

[fireballxl5]

Thanks TandE...I'll have to look into the tapatalk app. Looks like that might be the way to go. Happy Journeys!