Removing my decals

[slider]

Tired of looking at my curling/peeling decals so I'm taking them off. I got started this weekend and spent about 4 hours doing one side. Other than being slow it is going pretty well.

Best method I've found was using a heat gun and plastic razor blades (look like regular razor blade scraper but with plastic blades). Then spray with a product called Rapid Remover. First spray it, then scrape with plastic scraper, then spray once more and wipe with paper towel. This is the best adhesive remover I've tried (better than WD40, Goo Gone, Acetone).

Afterwards, I've got to take care of the ghosting from the faded Filon. Have read that Meguiars 105/205 combo is the ticket for that, will let you know in a couple weeks.

I'm building a shed this winter and won't do new decals until done with that. Thinking right now about just doing some horizontal stripes in black and copper - camper graphics look kinda tacky if you ever step back and think about it.

[theeyres]

Good luck. I haven't done it but have heard it is a slow, tedious job. I'm surprised to hear you have curling, faded graphics on a 2011.

[f6bits]

My stickers are holding up remarkably well, except for the front one. For some reason, it's two layers in parts. The top layer is starting to curl. I ordered and received a replacement, but for now I'm using a plastic putty knife to scrape the curls off as they occur. Eventually I'll remove the whole thing and put the new one on.

I'd like to hear how well the ghosting is managed.

[slider]

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_104949_0_8fe52eff892f95462cca345eee52eeec.jpg

[Pulln]

Man that looks amazingly clean. I appreciate the tips on tools and technique as my 09 Fuzion is curling and my wife and I are debating how to handle this task.

[slider]

I am confident that what I am doing is going to work for me, its slow and tedious but absolutely getting every bit of the decal and adhesive off. Might even go better if it wasn't 35 deg out when I was doing it.

Now as far as the ghosting, I'm hopeful that I can get rid of it, but not sure yet since I haven't tried.

Santa is bringing me an orbital buffer (even if I have to be Santa myself), then we'll see.

A side note: not sure but seems plausible that if you hold the heat gun too close and in one place too long, you'll heat the adhesive holding the siding on - so I am being mindful of that as I go.

[slider]

Wbdvt asked the following in a diff thread

"Pictures of before and after with the decal removal would be nice. Also the finish details on removing the outdoor grill bracket. How did you finish the holes left?"

As far as the grill bracket, I unsrewed it, took it off and put the screws back in for now with some caulk. I'm looking for a more permanent solution but am thinking JB weld for plastic. That might not be the best option so I am researching and will let you know. Whatever I end up with I'll also do where I take out the cargo door holder thingies.

The only close up before pic I have is this one it was getting dark so its not that great. Coincidentially f6bits posted right after my first pic and his sig pic works very nicely.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_105076_0_da65c3960de76051d89b5ea57875b6ca.jpg

[slider]

From internet searching a product called marine-tex, looks like it would work for patching screw holes - anybody use it?

[outwest]

looks really nice w/o the graphics and with just a touch of color in the corners. I like it a lot better than the before. Great job!

[Festus2]

From internet searching a product called marine-tex, looks like it would work for patching screw holes - anybody use it?

Yes, I've used Marine-Tex previously but on a fiberglass boat to fill screws holes for bimini snaps. It stood up well in a marine environment.

[slider]

Thanks, but I'm not done. All of that is coming off and I'm going back with some simple horizontal stripes.

Thinking a black one about 2" wide near the top and bottom. And a 3-5" copper colored stripe about 2' above the bottome one, maybe have it run about mid-door level. Or possibly skip the top stripe and do something similar as existing in the top corners except with black instead of maroon.

May change my mind but that's what I'm thinking. I've got a while because I'm not restriping until I get my shed done.

Also thanks for the feedback on marine tex, should be on my doorstep 12/17.

[Western Traveler]

Marine Tex should give you a bulletproof seal. I would suggest mixing a small batch and trying it on a scrap of something in the environment you will be using it to get a feel for cure time and cleanup. It can be mixed a little hotter if you need to and is a chemical cure.

[slider]

Here is how it looks with no decals at all

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_105526_0_e24fc51d3be32840307b6aa00649f6b9.jpg

Not sure if you can see the ghosting here, but I tried to get it in this pic. This is where the "Passport" decal was

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_105526_1_0761ec6444c2a957fcb1a206de65015d.jpg

This is without any effort to remove ghosting, except a quick wipe with some Simple Green and rinsed with water.

[Pulln]

It is hard to see in the pic but I can tell it is there how is it very noticeable to the eye in normal light?

[slider]

If you were looking for it, it is very noticeable. A casual look at the camper and it isn't as obvious/glaring. Not sure if that makes sense or not.

Anyway, hopefully very soon I will get the other side done (got 1 side and front and back complete), then I will hit with a couple compounds that I have read will take care of it. Will report on that when done.

Ive also read alot more on marine tex (mostly for boats) but the chatter seems to be that this will be exactly what is needed for filling holes. I now also have 2 gouges to fix on the front. The metal scraper I have been using works fine with everything flat (like when I did the side walls) but when I was doing the front the siding flexed and I created two nickel-sized holes in my siding. These are very shallow but don't look good. Hoping the marine tex works for this too. What I have read is to use it a fill holes, then cover with Saran wrap and roll or squeegee it smooth, leave wrap on until dry and when removed it should be relatively flat/smooth - we'll see.

[shov]

Just some additional advice for decal removal. 3M makes a product called the eraser wheel, it is amazing and safe as long as you don't hold it one spot for a period of time. They also make an adhesive remover, to help remove any film left over. The gohsting your refering to will more than likely fade as it sit in the sun light. Light rubbing compound and or buffing will hlep. Good luck and your rig looks pretty good all slick like that. Post some pic's when your done with the new decals!

[f6bits]

It looks naked, but I'm starting to get used to it. I don't know how long I'll keep mine, but I'd like to see your final result.

[slider]

Did the last side of my camper today and it was 70 degrees (as opposed to 35 last time).

Most of the decals peeled up and I was able to pull/peel them off. I didn't have to use the heat gun at all and did very little scraping. Even more significant, about 95% of the adhesive came off with the decals.

So in addition to no scraping and that step taking about 20% of the time as doing it in the cold weather, it completely eliminated the step of spraying the adhesive remover and scraping up the gooey adhesive. I did still spray the adhesive remover to get rid of the little bit was left but instead of 2 steps (one to spray then scrape, one to spray and wipe the remaining), I was able to spray it, wait about 90 seconds, and pretty much wipe the adhesive away with a paper towel.

Unbelievably different process. So I would recommend anybody thinking about removing any decals, wait and do it in warmer weather.

Next step - work on the ghosting. Not sure when I'll get the time, but I'll report on the process.

[Pulln]

Awesome. I live down in Tampa where it is practically warm year round and hope I am as lucky on doing mine as you were on the second half.

Those curled and torn decals blight the camper something awful.

[slider]

Spent some time today working on the ghosting.

First mistake - went with plan A (Meguiars 105 and 205 combo) and did most of one side without testing. It worked fine but read on.

Moved to the other side and decided to test several methods:

Area 1.) M205 alone
Area 2.) M105 followed by M205
Area 3.) Nufinish
Area 4.) Meguiars marine cleaner wax
Area 5.) Bar keepers friend

Then went back to area 1 and did M105 again, M205, Nufinish, bar keepers friend, then Nufinish again. Stopping each time to compare to the other spots.

After all of that, Area 1 did look slightly better than the rest but not enough to be worth the effort. The rest looked similar except didn't all shine the same so I went back and hit them with the cleaner wax.

The good news to all of this is my camper is so white and shiny that in the sun you can barely look at it and can't see the ghosting at all without putting your eye right up against the wall and looking down the surface (still difficult to see). 1 ft away you can't see anything different. With my polarized glasses I can make out where most of the decals where by looking for them. Will see how it looks in the shade later this afternoon.

After all that, I am going to abandon the M105/M205 combo because it isn't giving enough results for the effort. I am going to just redo the entire camper with the marine cleaner wax.

I may get frisky this spring and buy some marine cutting compound but for now I am convinced it will be fine with just a good wash and wax. I am also thinking the extremely white parts (where decals were) will oxidize a little and blend in even more.

[f6bits]

Did Barkeeper's Friend scuff the finish at all? I'm always looking for heavy duty cleaners for the more troublesome stains.

[Festus2]

I may get frisky this spring and buy some marine cutting compound but for now I am convinced it will be fine with just a good wash and wax. I am also thinking the extremely white parts (where decals were) will oxidize a little and blend in even more.

slider -
I'd recommend that you give Davis FSR a try. It is a blue gel fiberglass stain remover that is primarily intended for marine use on fiberglass boats but works well on any fiberglass surface - including RV's. It's very easy to apply - just let it stand for a few minutes, then wipe off and rinse with water. For stubborn stains, you might require another application.

I've used it on boats and works like a charm. It's available at most marine supply places, made in the USA and comes in a 16 oz plastic container.

It seems like you have done a very good job of removing the decals and trying various polishes/waxes to get rid of the "shadow". I would suspect that the "shadow" rather than being on the surface of the fiberglass and consequently easier to remove has permanently stained or discoloured the substrate and no matter how much you rub or polish, it will always be visible to some degree. It's something like leaving a rug over a finished hardwood floor. Over time, light and UV coming in through the window will "discolour" the exposed wood while leaving the covered wood untouched. The decals and the rug act in the same way.

If you have it to the stage where you have to stand on your head to see the shadow, you've accomplished a lot and I'm not sure how much better you can make it.

[slider]

The BKF didn't seem to bother the finish when just using on a microfiber cloth, although on a very small part on the back I tested BKF on a scrubbie and that did dull it a little (very aggressive scrubbing), so now I'm a little concerned to use it at all (did that after the other testing). I may try another spot tomorrow with just a sponge - leave it on for less than a minute and rinse well and leave it to see what it does, because it really is great stuff around the house.

For the toughest stains, I use Simple Green or a magic eraser. They both work great and I don't think they harm the finish (but I think they can take off wax). I also wax it a couple of times a year and usually it doesn't stain to the point a good washing won't get everything off.

Festus2, thanks for the tip, I will find some and give it a try.

[shov]

Is the shadowing a discoloring of the fiber glass? Reason i ask is because I removed the decals and badges from my TV, and it looks great when it is clean, but if a small amount of dust collects on the paint I can see where the decals were. But I was told by a body man, and have noticed this as well, that after some time in the sun it has started to diminish if not all of the way disappeared. My truck hasn't been clean for a while now, winter road grime and colder temps her MT are preventing, but very soon I hope.

[fibromob]

best way to remove decals is with a hair dryer you bring the decal warm ,this will allow for the glue to come off with it
then wash the remaining of the glue with WD40 ,by spraying the liquid on the glue wait 30 seconds and wash it off

the shadow most talk about is the discoloration of the gel coat ,the gel coat under the decals was not affected by UV and has no discoloration

you can just let it be and wait for the sun to slowly work on it and it will be blending after a year

or just use the lines to install the new decals back on

if the decals are so old and brittle
It will prove impossible to remove with the air dryer by pulling on the decals
they will break apart driving you in sane
you will need to blade them off

using a razor blade ,you need to dull one side of it by rubbing it on a wood piece ,in a 30 degree angle by rubbing away from the cutting edge
a 2 by 4 piece of wood will work ,the wood just gently fold up the cutting edge and will allow you to bite under the decals with out scratching the finish
the blade can never be turned to the opposite side
one side will leave no marks wile other side will dig right in the finish
use a black marker to mark the side you will work with and keep the 30 degree angle ,like holding the blade between your finger ,leave a finger touching the surface all the time this will keep the blade in perfect angle

best is to start in a location that does not stand out to test it out then work your way in the the more visible area
it is a pretty hard job ,I can see a full weekend on doing this if your just going carefully at a slow paste

[JRTJH]

There is a "special purpose product" called Plastice razor blades made especially for scraping on softer surfaces without leaving marks.

Essentially they are plastic razor blades and are great for removing decals, just make sure you don't point the hair dryer at the razor blade or it will soften along with the decal.... (don't ask me how I know this) <sigh>

There are three different "hardnesses" of blades that are color coded in the pack. Use the one that works best and it will help you avoid the inevitable scratches that too often happen with metal blades.

Here's one source:

http://www.amazon.com/Scraperite-Plastice-Razor-Blades-Multi/dp/B007VSVQ52/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1396191630&sr=8-4&keywords=plastic+razor+blades

[fibromob]

thanks for the link ,never seen them before
We are used to do it our own ways but if the plastic blade works ,sound like a much safer way to remove the graphics

thanks again

[JRTJH]

You're welcome. They aren't any faster and if you really REALLY "muscle them" you can still scratch the thin shiny coating on the Filon. But they are much less "dangerous" in the hands of a "novice".... they won't prevent any damage from a gorilla grip, but they will lessen the potential to scrape your RV "shiny side".....

[denverpilot]

Are those harder or softer plastic, than say, a $2 spackle applying "scraper" at Home Depot?

Asking 'cause I've not seen the "special" ones... But I've used the spackle "tool" for scraping similar stuff before.

[JRTJH]

There are three hardness types in the multipack. The softest ones are a little softer than the "hard plastic" spackle knife at home depot, but will last significantly longer before getting dulled. The other two are harder and I think do a better job of removing the decals. My biggest frustration is that once any of them are used for a bit,if you're not careful with how you use the edge, they tend to get tiny nicks on the edge and then they won't remove the adhesive in a flat sheet, rather then the adhesive gets scratched more than removed. The scratch lines in the adhesive make it easier to remove with Goo-Gone, etc, but that adds yet another step to the process.

I suppose everyone has their preferences and their observations, but to me, the plastic razor blades seem to be much more durable and easier to use than the plastic spackle knives....

[denverpilot]

Fair 'nuff... Just thought I would ask. Curiosity killed the cat, but got the dog through his Obedience class! :)

[fireballxl5]

Greetings! Joined about 2 months ago and learning a lot. Picked up my 2007 Laredo 29RL about 4 months ago for 17K. Don't know much history, but it was a bank repo that sat in the North CA sun for quite a while. Dusty, dirty, but it all works. Replaced tires, lighting (with generic LED), installed Fan-tastic Fan, and general cleaning/maint. Now on to topic.
Purchased a bottle of Rapid Remover spray for $20 from a local vinyl wrap wholesale house here in NW WA. My decals are peeling like crazy, with the Laredo by Keystone gone on the driver's side and rear, and almost gone street side. Based upon all that's been written, I didn't think I'd have much help from Keystone, so I've decided to strip the name.
Rapid Tec's spray did the job as advertised! Man, didn't take me any time to get the old dirty adhesive off (had to dodge the rain showers in Federal Way) and cleaned up nice. It really was fast with a cheap plastic scrapper. And lifting the remaining letters was slick with a flat razor knife/scrapper. Will likely remove all the decals (they are cracked or peeling...bad stuff.)
One thing I found really fast: don't let it drip down to your window seals or caulk...it melts that pretty fast too. Next time I will tape something just under to absorb any runoff (and there will be). For me though, I'm glad something actually worked as advertised and thank all of you for the sage advice! (tx) Safe journeys!

[wowchad]

Great thread, I'll be doing mine soon too so I'm taking notes.
Seems like I'm one of the few who actually got Keystone to send me a new set of decals although they didn't have them specifically for our Outback Loft anymore.
So far I used the 3M wheel on a drill & while it strips well it leaves a lot of goo behind so I hope to try Rapid Remover and plastic blades to clean that up.

My main question is about prepping once you have a clean slate & before you reinstall new decals. What product(s) are you guys using to even everything out but that decals stick well too?
Then once new decals are on do you wax the whole thing afterward?

[wowchad]

Spent some time today working on the ghosting.

First mistake - went with plan A (Meguiars 105 and 205 combo) and did most of one side without testing. It worked fine but read on.

Moved to the other side and decided to test several methods:

Area 1.) M205 alone
Area 2.) M105 followed by M205
Area 3.) Nufinish
Area 4.) Meguiars marine cleaner wax
Area 5.) Bar keepers friend

Then went back to area 1 and did M105 again, M205, Nufinish, bar keepers friend, then Nufinish again. Stopping each time to compare to the other spots.

After all of that, Area 1 did look slightly better than the rest but not enough to be worth the effort. The rest looked similar except didn't all shine the same so I went back and hit them with the cleaner wax...

...After all that, I am going to abandon the M105/M205 combo because it isn't giving enough results for the effort. I am going to just redo the entire camper with the marine cleaner wax...

Slider I'm confused when you list area 1.) M205 alone, but then say that it looked better but not worth the effort. If you only used one thing on that area how was it not worth the effort, what worked best & simplest?
I'm just trying to figure out the fastest most efficient way to get it bare white before installing new decals.
Oh and have you put new decals on yet? I'm also wondering how well they'll stick to a waxed surface like Meguiars marine cleaner wax if that was your final product you used.
Thanks, Chad

[slider]

Resurrecting my old thread here (sorry to anyone who needed info, but I’ve been away a while). I never successfully got rid of the ghosting. It would look okay when clean but after a month or so the areas where the decals were would start looking much more white than rest of camper.

I just left it plain white for a few years. This winter I got a leak in my roof (crack in molding trim and lack of good inspection on my part). Anyway I replaced rubber roof, molding, rotted wood and Filon on front. While I was putting over 40 hrs of work in it, I taped the outline of the old decals and just painted some new ones with marine paint.

Came out pretty good, we’ll see what time does to it.

Can’t get pics to upload right now but will soon as I can.

[slider]

Let’s see if this works....

[ctbruce]

Very nice. And yes it worked.

[slider]

And I did have best luck eventually with:

Perfect-It 36102 White Gelcoat Heavy Cutting Compound and Heavy Cutting Pads on my DA, but I had to spend about 10 mins on an area about 3’ square and do twice.

Still couldn’t get everything the same white, but this provided the best results for me that I experimented with. In the end decided to paint.

[GMH]

Re-resurrecting this thread, since it gave me the idea to look for plastic scrapers. I called a local bodyshop supply store and they didn’t have anything. I stopped at Princess auto on my way home and found these. Heating the decals slightly with a heat gun and using these scraper blades gets the decal and 95% of the glue off. A wipe down with wax and grease remover gets the rest. The Cougar decal I just peeled off with the heat gun. The X-Lite decal below it was done with the scraper.

[wborisenok]

Man I am so tempted to de-decal my new Bullet Crossfire. I did a quick photoshop to see what it would look like:

https://i.ibb.co/ZMwfm2Q/no34a.jpg

[Sarge2]

Man I am so tempted to de-decal my new Bullet Crossfire. I did a quick photoshop to see what it would look like:

https://i.ibb.co/ZMwfm2Q/no34a.jpg


Kind of looks a bit bland...like a semi-trailer..only without the company name.. Sorry just being honest... :hide:

[wborisenok]

Kind of looks a bit bland...like a semi-trailer..only without the company name.. Sorry just being honest... :hide:

Hey, you know what they say..opinions are like _______, everyone's got one! :lol: All good

[GMH]

I’d advise anyone who’s decals are peeling to do something about it sooner than later. The glue areas that were exposed for years on mine have collected dust and dried solid, I’m not sure how well that is going to come off? I’m thinking white scotch brite pads and lots of grease and wax remover or gun wash.

[jasin1]

Everyone has different tastes but I would think it would be really hard to sell a trailer that has been stripped and looks like an office trailer IMO
I’ve had many company vehicles and I can tell you a good graphics company can put new stickers on it and it can hide a lot of it and look pretty good.
The lady that does my trucks and boats can reproduce almost anything and she would just make slightly larger stripes that would cover the old...make it look like a new trailer for probably around a grand...or you could spend weeks of stripping compounding and waxing and still be able to see a difference where the stickers were
If you were selling it you would probably get your money back because first impressions are important

[Hblick48]

I've used this to remove decals from two different RV's:

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Stripe-Removal-07517-Diameter/dp/B00EW7MUQ4

Takes off decals and glue. It would have no problem with removing GMH's decals.

[GMH]

I have tried both gun wash and grease and wax remover to get the dried glue off. They instantly turn the glue that was still adhered to mush, and do somewhat soften the dried, blackened areas. I got some 3M 08987 adhesive remover, and it does a much better job. It softens the fresher glue without making it slimy, and works much better on the dried stuff if left to soak for a bit. The problem is trying to let it “soak” on a vertical surface! It’s sunny and 30 degrees C here right now, so I’ll have to wait for a cooler day to get back at it.

[jasin1]

I have tried both gun wash and grease and wax remover to get the dried glue off. They instantly turn the glue that was still adhered to mush, and do somewhat soften the dried, blackened areas. I got some 3M 08987 adhesive remover, and it does a much better job. It softens the fresher glue without making it slimy, and works much better on the dried stuff if left to soak for a bit. The problem is trying to let it “soak” on a vertical surface! It’s sunny and 30 degrees C here right now, so I’ll have to wait for a cooler day to get back at it.

Can you cover it with wax paper or Saran Wrap maybe? To hold the remover on the spot? As long as you test that it doesn’t dissolve it

[GMH]

I tried soaking down a paper towel, hoping it would stick to the side of the trailer, but the slightest breeze blew it off.

[Hblick48]

Get one of these....takes glue off.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Stripe-Removal-07517-Diameter/dp/B00EW7MUQ4

[jasin1]

Just be careful with scotchbrite pads.. we use them on boats but not on any of the gelcoat that is topside . It will actually scratch the gelcoat like fine sandpaper and make a noticeable dull spot where you use it

[jasin1]

My sign lady has a chemical she uses effectively .. you may want to call a couple local graphic/truck lettering places.. they may send someone to strip it for $200 or less Might be worth it

[LewisB]

Our last trailer was a 2008 Raptor 3712TS - at 40' in length and 13'3" high, it was a monster. The graphics had all failed, were chipped, fading, and the edges were peeling as shown in the first photo. As Jasin suggested, we got a $1,200 estimate to have the decals removed - did not include any type of satisfaction guarantee. (Double click the photos to get a better view).

33619

We used rubber wheels, plastic razor blades, and the proverbial kitchen sink and got all the graphics and glue removed - it took two of us working full time over 2 long weeks to get this far. In this second photo, you can see the "ghosting" after graphics removal.

33618

The problem here is that the paint under the graphics was fresh and shiny, the paint outside the graphics was faded and oxidized. There was no easy fix for this. I bought a very expensive Cyclo dual head orbital polisher and went to work. It took me over a week to go over the entire trailer with rubbing compound and wool pads. Then another week to polish the entire trailer with cleaner/polish.

33620

The end result was spectacular! Problem was, within a year, the trailer looked like the second photo. The oxidized/non-oxidized areas were completely ghosted again. This was going to be an on-going annual process or require a large investment in a refinishing process.

I polished it again and sold the trailer. I told the DW (who readily agreed) that at 73, that was my "last trailer decal removal" process. I will never do this again and I would never recommend this to anyone. My recommendation is to sell the trailer or learn to live with the graphics. JMHO

[jasin1]

Our last trailer was a 2008 Raptor 3712TS - at 40' in length and 13'3" high, it was a monster. The graphics had all failed, were chipped, fading, and the edges were peeling as shown in the first photo. As Jasin suggested, we got a $1,200 estimate to have the decals removed - did not include any type of satisfaction guarantee. (Double click the photos to get a better view).

33619

We used rubber wheels, plastic razor blades, and the proverbial kitchen sink and got all the graphics and glue removed - it took two of us working full time over 2 long weeks to get this far. In this second photo, you can see the "ghosting" after graphics removal.

33618

The problem here is that the paint under the graphics was fresh and shiny, the paint outside the graphics was faded and oxidized. There was no easy fix for this. I bought a very expensive Cyclo dual head orbital polisher and went to work. It took me over a week to go over the entire trailer with rubbing compound and wool pads. Then another week to polish the entire trailer with cleaner/polish.

33620

The end result was spectacular! Problem was, within a year, the trailer looked like the second photo. The oxidized/non-oxidized areas were completely ghosted again. This was going to be an on-going annual process or require a large investment in a refinishing process.

I polished it again and sold the trailer. I told the DW (who readily agreed) that at 73, that was my "last trailer decal removal" process. I will never do this again and I would never recommend this to anyone. My recommendation is to sell the trailer or learn to live with the graphics. JMHO

I’m at the point in life where I don’t mind hard work but also don’t want to waste my free time on long grueling projects.. I just gave the go ahead to have my boat waxed for $21 ft.. $735, would have taken me a weekend or two and now I can go camping during that time ...life is too short and I’m trying to weigh the cost of professionals vs the misery of doing it myself.
I have a whole bunch of other things I take care of so it’s not like I’m lazy ..just trying to reach a balance in life

[Ken / Claudia]

I am becoming like you. I can do many maintenance things, but do I want to
really to do them all. Heck I have fishing and others stuff to do. I recently found out the local RV repair shop would remove the wheel bearings, repack and replace grease seals for 195. At the same time inspect the brakes. I had them do it and got lucky, brakes are still great shape, no bearings needed replaced. I would have spend most of 1 day and wreaked my back for several days. I think it was worth it.

[sourdough]

I’m at the point in life where I don’t mind hard work but also don’t want to waste my free time on long grueling projects.. I just gave the go ahead to have my boat waxed for $21 ft.. $735, would have taken me a weekend or two and now I can go camping during that time ...life is too short and I’m trying to weigh the cost of professionals vs the misery of doing it myself.
I have a whole bunch of other things I take care of so it’s not like I’m lazy ..just trying to reach a balance in life



You get enough things going on, things to do that pretty soon all you do is "maintenance" and take care of stuff. I've always done it; always loved to do it but after 65 I said "to heck with this". It's a never ending with all the doo dads that need attention, completely detracts from any fun that you might want to plan....and then eliminates it any way. Nope, find someone good at what you need and let them do it while you make or few casts....or whatever. Like Ken, I no longer pull my wheel bearings etc. I have a local shop that's done work for me for 30+ years (along with my company vehicles "back when"). They pull everything and repack the bearings for $120. I had them put new bearings in the last trailer - $70 IIRC. For that I would much rather be doing something else but to each his own.

[jasin1]

This is labor intensive but could definitely work https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSzhSks0PG4

[gearhead]

^That you tube about painting the decals is excellent. My Bigfoot needs that bad. I have thought about using the 3M wheel but almost everyone says they still had the ghosting issue no matter what they did.
I had the same issue with oxidation on our previous Montana HC. Every spring and fall I would kill myself compounding and polishing. It got to the point I dreaded it. Finally said I just can't keep doing this. Either quit the RV thing or find a full color paint 5th. So I traded for the Landmark.
I'm the same as others have said. It doesn't take long to find yourself spending all your time doing maintenance on toys.
Here's my to do list that needs to be done ASAP:
Get the Bigfoot ready for August trip to the Knoxville Nationals sprint car race. Includes re-sealing bad sealant on the roof, replacing the AC heater element in the refrigerator, replace the A/C cowling (I have a replacement that I'm about 90% sure is wrong).
GoDevil mud boat needs a fuel system overhaul...new fuel hose, water separator, fuel filter, and oil change.
Landmark needs a piece of wood trim repaired. Mechanics are coming in July to do the disc brake job.
Bay boat needs lower unit maintenance and water pump replaced.
Yard needs the freeze damaged hedge pulled up. I'll hire that out.

I had always done my own maintenance, but for the first time I paid my RV shop to repack bearings and inspect brakes. At $135 per hour it was a bit pricey.

This afternoon we're babysitting, I'm going to a historical marker/Memorial Day event at one of my family cemeteries, and watching car races.
Bigfoot tomorrow, if it doesn't rain.

[jasin1]

^That you tube about painting the decals is excellent. My Bigfoot needs that bad. I have thought about using the 3M wheel but almost everyone says they still had the ghosting issue no matter what they did.
I had the same issue with oxidation on our previous Montana HC. Every spring and fall I would kill myself compounding and polishing. It got to the point I dreaded it. Finally said I just can't keep doing this. Either quit the RV thing or find a full color paint 5th. So I traded for the Landmark.
I'm the same as others have said. It doesn't take long to find yourself spending all your time doing maintenance on toys.
Here's my to do list that needs to be done ASAP:
Get the Bigfoot ready for August trip to the Knoxville Nationals sprint car race. Includes re-sealing bad sealant on the roof, replacing the AC heater element in the refrigerator, replace the A/C cowling (I have a replacement that I'm about 90% sure is wrong).
GoDevil mud boat needs a fuel system overhaul...new fuel hose, water separator, fuel filter, and oil change.
Landmark needs a piece of wood trim repaired. Mechanics are coming in July to do the disc brake job.
Bay boat needs lower unit maintenance and water pump replaced.
Yard needs the freeze damaged hedge pulled up. I'll hire that out.

I had always done my own maintenance, but for the first time I paid my RV shop to repack bearings and inspect brakes. At $135 per hour it was a bit pricey.

This afternoon we're babysitting, I'm going to a historical marker/Memorial Day event at one of my family cemeteries, and watching car races.
Bigfoot tomorrow, if it doesn't rain.

I think I’m going to need a pole barn in the near future ..whenever building prices come down..probably my only chance of keeping everything looking good for long term. Figure that will buy me years of wear and tear on the roof and also on oxidation of sidewalls....the full body paint definitely looks sharp,maybe go that route one day if I get a toy hauler

[sourdough]

^That you tube about painting the decals is excellent. My Bigfoot needs that bad. I have thought about using the 3M wheel but almost everyone says they still had the ghosting issue no matter what they did.
I had the same issue with oxidation on our previous Montana HC. Every spring and fall I would kill myself compounding and polishing. It got to the point I dreaded it. Finally said I just can't keep doing this. Either quit the RV thing or find a full color paint 5th. So I traded for the Landmark.
I'm the same as others have said. It doesn't take long to find yourself spending all your time doing maintenance on toys.
Here's my to do list that needs to be done ASAP:
Get the Bigfoot ready for August trip to the Knoxville Nationals sprint car race. Includes re-sealing bad sealant on the roof, replacing the AC heater element in the refrigerator, replace the A/C cowling (I have a replacement that I'm about 90% sure is wrong).
GoDevil mud boat needs a fuel system overhaul...new fuel hose, water separator, fuel filter, and oil change.
Landmark needs a piece of wood trim repaired. Mechanics are coming in July to do the disc brake job.
Bay boat needs lower unit maintenance and water pump replaced.
Yard needs the freeze damaged hedge pulled up. I'll hire that out.

I had always done my own maintenance, but for the first time I paid my RV shop to repack bearings and inspect brakes. At $135 per hour it was a bit pricey.

This afternoon we're babysitting, I'm going to a historical marker/Memorial Day event at one of my family cemeteries, and watching car races.
Bigfoot tomorrow, if it doesn't rain.


Brent when are they coming to do your brakes? It was Performance Trailer Braking right? They're coming to do my brakes, axles and MorRyde suspension on July 17. Was wondering if they make a trip to TX and try to do them all at once.

I had my bearings repacked, brakes inspected etc. last year by a local tire/wheel/auto repair place I've always used for tires and tire repair. $120 for pulling, packing the bearings and inspecting/adjusting brakes (my last trailer did not have self adjusting brakes).

[gearhead]

^Yep the only way to really protect it is under a roof. I spent a good bit of time online pricing metal carports. I would need a 22x44 to cover the 5th, utility trailer, mud boat, and Bigfoot. I think I can do it for about $10k including a concrete footing. But I'm 70 years old and not sure how much longer I'll be doing this. But then again I could pull the trigger on it any day.

[gearhead]

Brent when are they coming to do your brakes? It was Performance Trailer Braking right? They're coming to do my brakes, axles and MorRyde suspension on July 17. Was wondering if they make a trip to TX and try to do them all at once.

I had my bearings repacked, brakes inspected etc. last year by a local tire/wheel/auto repair place I've always used for tires and tire repair. $120 for pulling, packing the bearings and inspecting/adjusting brakes (my last trailer did not have self adjusting brakes).

July 10, Saturday.
Google maps says 6 hr 41 minutes driving which means about 8 hr with fuel and a drive thru lunch. I think one of them is a woman that is the warehouse boss. I hope they stop and get some sleep.
They'll be working on the double wide concrete driveway. I'll put the awnings out on the south side but it'll still be hot working on the concrete.
That's a dang good price for that bearing work. Consider yourself lucky.
Something I've been thinking about...wonder if we will be able to see the grease seal? I've never had a trailer with disc brakes. I would be tempted to give that grease fitting on the spindle a few shots occasionally.

[travelin texans]

July 10, Saturday.
Google maps says 6 hr 41 minutes driving which means about 8 hr with fuel and a drive thru lunch. I think one of them is a woman that is the warehouse boss. I hope they stop and get some sleep.
They'll be working on the double wide concrete driveway. I'll put the awnings out on the south side but it'll still be hot working on the concrete.
That's a dang good price for that bearing work. Consider yourself lucky.
Something I've been thinking about...wonder if we will be able to see the grease seal? I've never had a trailer with disc brakes. I would be tempted to give that grease fitting on the spindle a few shots occasionally.

Giving the spindle a few shots of grease might be OK on a rig with disc brakes as it won't/shouldn't contaminate the brakes, but I would recommend NEVER do that with any rv with drum brakes UNLESS you're 110% sure of the quality/condition of the grease seal.

[gearhead]

^ 10-4. I wouldn't do it unless I could see the entire seal.

[GMH]

That you tube video on painting the graphics looks very labor intensive. You would have to catch it very early too. I could not do it for mine because the decals are very badly peeled and curled. I doubt that the paint job would last very long...maybe long enough to sell it? I got mine cleaned off very nicely with this method:
1) Heat and peel decal off.
2) 3M spray adhesive remover and plastic scraper to get majority of the glue off.
3) Grease and wax remover and blue non-abrasive scouring pads.
4) A little elbow grease.
The scouring pads took off even the really blackened, dried up glue residue. I have contacted a local vehicle wrap company about getting a large decal (2’x3’?) to break up the expanse of whiteness and hide the ghosting a bit, but haven’t gotten a response yet. If it doesn’t pan out I can live with it the way it is.

[kneeslider]

RV graphics are ridiculous. Waste of time and money, I'd pay more to get an rv without them!

[GMH]

Well I sent the graphics shop pictures on May 17, and she said she would forward them to her boss and get me a rough price. I sent a follow up e-mail on the 25th, and have gotten NO reply....so I guess they don’t want the work.:confused: Oh well, I think it looks a lot better now, and I can live with the ghosting.

[jasin1]

Well I sent the graphics shop pictures on May 17, and she said she would forward them to her boss and get me a rough price. I sent a follow up e-mail on the 25th, and have gotten NO reply....so I guess they don’t want the work.:confused: Oh well, I think it looks a lot better now, and I can live with the ghosting.

Just saw these on Amazon Not sure of the quality

[Hblick48]

Just saw these on Amazon Not sure of the quality

They also sell on Ebay. I purchased new graphics from them over 4 years ago. All have held up well except the one on the front cap. It has faded a lot, probably because that part faces south in our storage lot. They still sell those graphics, and it would cost about $100 to purchase new ones.

Use the "book" method to install. Make sure to burnish new graphics prior to installing.